There is a reason that acapulco was the first resort area in Mexico to achieve A-list status among visitors looking to relax, comb the beach and party the night away. Picture a bay lined with 12 miles of beaches, dramatic cliffs overlooking the sea and some of the best nightlife in Mexico, and you’ll understand the appeal.

Part of the fascination with Acapulco is that it still bears obvious reminders of the cultures and influences that have come and gone over the centuries. In its earliest incarnation, Acapulco was inhabited by the indigenous Nahuas, who left pottery and other artifacts that date from as early as 3000 BC, but it was the more recent arrivals — the 16th century Spanish explorers sent by Cortez to find a passage to Asia — who brought with them the unmistakable Latin flavor that still colors the culture of the city today.

Because of Acapulco’s prime location on the Pacific coast, the port city has been a busy, cosmopolitan hub for centuries, serving the Spanish trading ships called Manila Galleons that plied the waters between the Philippines — hence the name — and Acapulco. And on the theory that every self-respecting resort destination needs a few skeletons in its closet to keep it interesting, the region is also famous for having drawn the attention of a slew of blackguard pirates, including Sir Francis Drake and Thomas Cavendish, veritable celebrities of the day. It was in an effort to ward off those marauders that the Spanish settlers constructed one of the city’s most famous landmarks, Fuerte de San Diego, which was destroyed in an earthquake about the same time the United States was achieving its independence from England, then subsequently rebuilt.

The ravages of the Mexican War of Independence in the early 19th century put an end to prosperity and trade, and sent Acapulco into a hibernation from which it would not emerge for 100 years.

Acapulco was the height of glamour, eventually attracting the attention of American Hollywood royalty in the 1940s and ’50s.

Fast-forward to the early 20th century, and Acapulco was reborn as a playground for the European leisure classes on the hunt for sun and sand. Suddenly, Acapulco was the height of glamour, eventually attracting the attention of American Hollywood royalty in the 1940s and ’50s.

The Tarzan movies of the 1930s and ’40s were filmed in Acapulco, and Johnny Weissmuller, the series’ star, was so smitten with the region that he became a regular at local hot spots. He eventually bought the scenic Los Flamingos Hotel, where he hung out with Cary Grant, John Wayne, Errol Flynn and a host of other celebrities of the era. The fact that the Academy Award-winning film The African Queen, starring Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn, was also filmed partly in the area attracted even more celebrities, some anxious to be seen and others looking for a quiet, discreet place to lay low and relax.

The presence of so many rich and famous visitors lent luster — and a high price tag — to the city, particularly for tourists eager to get a glimpse of their favorite actors. To accommodate the increase in tourism, Acapulco’s infrastructure began to expand with the creation of new beachfront resort hotels along what is now called the Golden Zone, opening up tourism to more visitors but changing its dynamics in terms of exclusivity.

By 1968, Acapulco came to international prominence again when it was tapped as the yachting venue for the Mexico City Summer Olympic Games. Americans also got an eyeful of Acapulco on television in the 1970s, thanks to the regularly broadcast sight of the La Quebrada cliff divers, who have been taking the plunge off a dangerous precipice into shallow water since the mid-1930s.

Acapulco today still draws swarms of tourists from the United States and throughout Mexico, as well as its share of international visitors. Cruise passengers are increasingly calling at Acapulco on itineraries that often also include stops in Zihuatanejo, Puerto Vallarta and Los Cabos. In fact, the city’s location is roughly parallel to Cancun on Mexico’s east coast and is probably its biggest competitor. But unlike Cancun, which seems to have sprung fully formed to accommodate tourists, Acapulco’s vibrant history makes it an appealing resort destination for visitors who want to feel they are experiencing the “real” Mexico.

Locals like to brag about the weather, which, while sunny virtually every day, offers a steady, cooling breeze that keeps the temperatures more moderate than some of its neighbors. And in the area of nightlife, most visitors agree that the city has no equal in Mexico — boasting night owl activities for visitors that range from drinks and dancing at a seaside bar to letting loose and walking on the wild side.

Proof that Acapulco retains its status as an important tourism destination is evident in the fact that it is the traditional host city for the Tianguis tourism trade fair, the largest in Mexico, which draws hundreds of travel agents and tour operators from around the world every year.

The event, which takes place in spring, also serves as a venue for travel suppliers from Acapulco who enjoy the chance to brag about their city’s attractions.

Although the resort city doesn’t retain the glamorous sheen it enjoyed during its glory years — and there is no denying that there is a certain element of big city grit and traffic — Acapulco still boasts enough charms to draw even the most hard-to-please road warrior looking for fun in the sun.

LODGING

FAIRMONT ACAPULCO PRINCESS

There are two Fairmont properties in Acapulco, but the Fairmont Acapulco Princess has the advantage of a championship golf course, a 14,000- square-foot Willow Stream Spa with six individual massage cabins, and five swimming pools. The 1,017-room property, which was designed to look like an Aztec temple, also offers La Hacienda Steak House for upscale Mexican dining and the Chula Vista buffet restaurant nd the Beach Club Restaurant and Bar for casual fare. End the day at the Yuca Live Salsa Club, where you can sample the extensive collection of tequila. Guests can take advantage of the facilities at the sister property, the adjacent Fairmont Pierre Marques, accessible by foot or by free shuttle bus. $$$ to $$$$
FAIRMONT ACAPULCO PRINCESS
Playa Revolcadero s/n Col. Granjas del Marques
tel 52 744 469 1000, fax 52 744 469 1016
http://www.fairmont.com

QUINTA REAL ACAPULCO
Part of the Mexico Boutique Hotels group, the 74-room Quinta Real Acapulco has everything exhausted travelers come to Acapulco for: a retreat atmosphere, a full-service spa, a swimming pool in a tropical setting and tennis courts. Guests can kick back at the Beach Club restaurant (known for its seafood), sip a drink at the rooftop bar or stroll the private beach. Situated away from the hubbub of downtown, the property eschews Internet in the guestrooms in favor of serene relaxation, but the city’s nightlife is just a cab ride away. $$$$
QUINTA REAL ACAPULCO
Paseo de la Quinta 6
tel 52 744 469 1000
http://www.mexicoboutiquehotels.com/quintarealacapulco

HOTEL EMPORIO ACAPULCO
Tucked in the heart of Acapulco’s downtown district on a private beach and within shouting distance of all the city’s top attractions, this 419- room property boasts easy access to the beaches, cultural sites, nightlife and commercial centers. The newly renovated hotel features a spare, minimalist décor, guestroom balconies, an Oriental spa for a day of pampering and even a Kid Corner for the children, so adults can enjoy some R-and-R. The hotel features a huge swimming pool with slides and bridges in a kids-only area, as well as the La Isla pool bar and the casual La Isla Grill Bar restaurant. $$$
HOTEL EMPORIO ACAPULCO
Costera Miguel Alemán 121
tel 52 744 469 0505, fax 52 744 484 2081
http://www.continentalemporio.com/english.html

DINING

RESTAURANTE MADEIRAS
The show-stopping view of the bay is just one of the reasons to splurge on dinner at Restaurante Madeiras, where diners can choose from perfectly cooked filets and seafood or garlicky frogs’ legs, the house specialty. The wine list is extensive, and the service wouldn’t be out of place in a fine European restaurant. Reserve ahead and ask for outdoor dining for the best views, but don’t miss the intricately carved wood details of the building’s exterior. Open nightly. $$$$
Restaurante Madeiras
Carretera Escénica 33
tel 52 744 446 5636
http://www.madeiras.com.mx

LA PERLA

Situated in El Mirador Hotel, La Perla is perched on the La Quebrada cliffs, so be sure to ask for a front table and time your reservation to coincide with the famed cliff diving shows at 7:30 p.m., 8:30 p.m., 9:30 p.m. and 10:30 p.m. The menu is continental — think chateaubriand for two, fettuccineAlfredo and cheesecake — served by candlelight and accompanied by music. Be sure to check out the hall of engraved signatures of celebrity visitors on your way out. $$$$
LA PERLA
Plazoleta La Quebrada 74
tel 52 744 483 1155, fax 52 744 483 8800
http://www.hotelelmiradoracapulco.com.mx

CARLOS’N CHARLIE’S

Visitors looking to enjoy fresh Mexican cuisine that doesn’t take itself too seriously can relax at Carlos’n Charlie’s, which offers a low-key, casual atmosphere. The waiters are likely to offer tango lessons or perform a comedy sketch to amuse the diners while serving dinner. Pair the Rodrigo fish tacos with mahi mahi or the carne asada tacos with a dark, foamy cerveza, and you’ll feel like a local.You’ll find plenty of families dining here, but the joint begins to jump as the night wears on. $$ to $$$.
CARLOS’N CHARLIE’S
Costera Miguel Alemán 112
tel 52 744 484 0039, fax 52 744 484 1285
http://www.carlosandcharlies.com

DIVERSIONS

Even savvy travelers who don’t like touristy sites will be missing out if they don’t watch at least one performance of the La Quebrada Cliff Divers (Av. Lopez Mateos and Plazoleta La Quebrada, http://www.acapulco.com). Divers soar nearly 150 feet down the cliffs into shallow water, timing their fall to land between the crashing waves. Opt for a 1 p.m. show or take in a night spectacle, dramatically lit by torch light. Keep in mind that, even for the daredevil at heart, this is purely a spectator sport.

Hit the beach (http://www.visitacapulco.com.mx). There are 20 in all, offering everything from lazy sunbathing to highintensity water sports.Visitors looking to soak in local flavor will enjoy watching the fishermen on Homos Beach drag their fishing nets from the water to collect their morning’s catch. Or, if our goal is to see and be seen, try Caleta Beach, where you can knock back a drink at the beach bar and indulge in serious people-watching.

Probably Acapulco’s best known icon is the 17th century Fuerte de San Diego (Calle Hornitos and Calle Morelos, tel 52 744 482 3828), complete with cannons and formidable ramparts overlooking the port and the mountains beyond. Squint and you can almost see the Spanish galleons and invading pirates plying the waters below, and don’t miss the Acapulco Historical Museum for an interactive exhibit that traces the city’s intriguing past.

The Ecumenical Chapel of Peace (Calle de Vientos Cardinales, tel 52 744 446 5458) in Las Brisas, one of Acapulco’s more posh neighborhoods, is a quirky testament to the power of optimism. The enormous Trouyet’s cross, named in honor of the couple who built the chapel in 1969, marks the spot and is so huge as to be visible from just about everywhere in the city. The interior of the chapel is a non-denominational tribute to the ideals of peace and harmony, and thanks to its hilltop location, it offers camera-worthy views of the bay below.

Take a day trip to Isla de la Roqueta, an island off the coast of Acapulco, accessible from Caleta Beach by glass-bottom boat (Yacht Dinka, tel 52 744 482 6209). Here you can indulge in scuba diving and snorkeling (Acapulco Scuba Center, Tlacopanocha 13 and 14 Paseo del Pescador, tel 52 744 482 9474), enjoy the calm, shallow water and sandy beach or hit the hiking trails that lead into unspoiled wilderness.

Acapulco comes alive at night, so save some energy to venture out after dark. Start with a sunset margarita at the cliff-top Los Flamingos Hotel (Av. Lopez Mateos, tel 52 744 482 0690, http://www.hotellosflamingos.com) for the views of the Pacific Ocean and the photo gallery of Old Hollywood stars.Then hop over to Señor Frog’s (Carretera Escénica 28, tel 52 744 446 5734,www.senorfrogs.com), where the scene is lively and unrestrained. Fans of the Hard Rock Café (Costera Miguel Alemán, tel 52 744 484 6680, http://www.hardrock.com) and Planet Hollywood (Costera Miguel Alemán, tel 52 744 484 4289, http://www.planethollywood.com) won’t be disappointed in the Acapulco versions of these hot spots.

INFO TO GO

General Juan N. Alvarez International Airport (ACA), also known as Acapulco International Airport, is located 16 miles from Acapulco. One of the largest in Mexico, the airport has daily connecting flights to and from Mexico City as well as international flights from the United States and other destinations. International charter flights also fly in and out of the facility. The airport has two terminals with VIP lounges, shops and restaurants. Airport transfers to beach hotels are available via multiple private taxi companies for about $20 to $35 per person or by van shuttle service (Acuario Tours, Costera Miguel Alemán, tel 52 744 485 6100) from $64 per person in a private van; $13 in a shared van.

Once in the city, visitors usually rely on taxis, car rentals and hotel van shuttles to get around. The Port of Acapulco, situated across from Fuerte de San Diego, is within walking distance of the city center.