FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Turkey: Turquoise Treasure

by Gtrav

Apr 1, 2010
2010 / April 2010

I have lost count lately of the people I know who’ve rafted down the Amazon, chased icebergs in the Arctic or hiked the entire Appalachian Trail. And while I applaud their pluck, I am not about to vacation with them any time soon. The truth is, I prefer my adventures like my eggs — over easy. That’s why, when a break from bustling Istanbul was in order, I nixed ballooning in Cappadocia, decided against climbing Mount Ararat and instead hopped an 80-minute flight to Dalaman, gateway to the Turquoise Coast.

Considering this initial stretch of Turkey’s Mediterranean seaboard is renowned for beaches, you can be forgiven for thinking the most challenging activity available would be applying SPF 40 before plopping on the sand. On the contrary, merely reaching those blissful strands can be a memorable experience loaded with the sort of soft adventures that appeal to relative lollygaggers like me.

My initial foray to Iztuzu Beach is a case in point. The excursion began in Dalyan — a Lilliputian town on the bank of an eponymous river just 17 miles northwest of Dalaman Airport — where I’d heard I could grab a boat for the half-hour cruise downstream. Hiring one was surprisingly easy: Scores of identical vessels operated by a local cooperative lined the quay, the size of the fleet underscoring how busy this spot gets in July and August. Off-season, however, I had Dalyan Çayi pretty much to myself.

More channel than river, it is laced with 10-foot-tall reed beds, and the surfeit of wetland birds living within (over 150species in all) is a major draw for ornithological types. Yet the combination of scenery and solitude also lends the waterway a timeless, almost biblical feel. So rather than snapping photos of kingfishers and cormorants, I found myself scanning the bulrushes, half expecting to see baby Moses float by.

The palpable sense of history is enhanced by tombs dating from the 4th century B.C. poised high on the opposite bank. Of course, the Lycians who somehow managed to create these structures — imagine the elaborate façades of Ionic temples carved into a cliff face — weren’t the only ones to leave their mark. The nearby remains of Kaunos bear witness to Persians, Greeks, Romans and Byzantines as well.

Once a thriving port city, Kaunos suffered the same fate Ephesus did when silt gradually filled its harbor, severing its commercial lifeline. Unlike its famous Aegean cousin, though, this site is incredibly low-key. There is no supersized bus corral outside, no cordon of kitschy shops on the pathway in; and since its sprawling ruins are only partially excavated, hiking around the ancient baths and impressive amphitheater lets you unleash your inner Indiana Jones.

Such activity makes the prospect of finally lounging on Iztuzu Beach, at the mouth of Dalyan Çayi, all the more appealing. Parts, I was informed, are off-limits to visitors. But one can hardly complain, given the reason for that is the same reason the delta as a whole remains pristine. In a word, it’s turtles. The area was designated a conservation zone in the mid-1980s because Iztuzu was determined to be one of the last nesting grounds for endangered Caretta caretta, loggerhead sea turtles.

Tracks signal their presence May through September, whether they are the broad drag marks left by female loggerheads lumbering up to lay eggs or the fluttering flipper marks made by sea-bound hatchlings. Instinct aside, it is understandable why they’d long to return year after year. This sandy three-mile spit, lapped by the salty Mediterranean on one side and “sweet” river water on the other, now seems to exert an irresistible pull — even on me.

Locals, ironically, tend to motor upriver instead of down for their own aquatic adventures. Casting around for further day-trip ideas, I got a recommendation from my boatman, Capt. Rasit, for fishing capped by a dip in Lake Köyceg˘iz. He explained, “Dalyan means fish hatchery,” adding that outfitters run similar outings, supplying the gear and cooking the catch while guests swim. Tempting as that sounded, it was Rasit’s second suggestion which reeled me in: a stop at the Sultaniye “spa” about 25 minutes above Dalyan.

Located where river meets lake, the thermal spring and mineral-rich mud bath originally drew residents of Kaunos and are now magnets, in peak months at least, for Brits on packaged holidays. Luckily, I was alone except for a few regulars who pantomimed the procedure for me. The short version goes like this: Wallow in gray sludge, let the sun bake it onto your body, rinse under a cold shower, then soak until al dente in Sultaniye’s outdoor pool, where the water constantly hovers at 104 degrees.

The complex is far from opulent and, thanks to the sulfur content, decidedly smelly. Nevertheless, having paid a meager $18 ($3 for entry plus $15 for the boat trip) I was able to leave Dalyan with my skin soft and my wallet still well padded. The plan? To drive back toward the airport and continue another 31 miles southeast to Fethiye. As a regional center, Fethiye has more amenities than you’d usually expect in a city of 68,000. Being backed by the Taurus Mountains, it has a sublime setting, too.

But for me, Fethiye’s harbor took precedence, since boats departing from it promise easy access to offshore beaches, in the process allowing time-pressed travelers to get a taste of the classic Blue Cruise. Finding a vessel for the so-called “12 Islands Tour” wasn’t a problem. As I strolled the seaside promenade, captains of double-decker excursion boats, catamarans and traditional sailing gulets all pitched trips — their itineraries essentially the same despite dramatic price differences.

Whether charging $15 or $55, each spends seven to eight hours weaving through the crystalline Gulf of Fethiye, typically making five stops at pine-studded isles and seductive inlets. The most notable, perhaps, is Hamam Bay, a spot awash in myth — Mark Antony and Cleopatra reputedly honeymooned here — where it is possible to immerse literally in history by snorkeling above sunken ruins.

As if cruising opportunities weren’t enough to justify coming to Fethiye, the city also put me within five miles of Ölüdeniz, which boasts the bit of shoreline virtually every heat-seeking tourist in Turkey feels compelled to see. There, at the bottom of a winding mountain road just beyond a patch of fragrant evergreens, sits the blue, bathtub-calm lagoon that has launched a thousand postcards.

With its sweeping bow of white sand, the country’s most-photographed beach is indeed a beauty. The caveat is that this place is often crammed with sun worshippers in summer. At the height of the season, even the sky seems to fill as paragliders descending from the summit of Babadag˘ loop around the lagoon before landing at the pebbly beach beside it. Out of season, conversely, the majority of facilities are shuttered, giving the area a slightly mournful air.

Checking off Ölüdeniz left a single beach on my to-do list: a remote one I’d been told about called Coldwater Cove at the entrance to the adjacent Kaya Valley. Driving to it via Fethiye involved negotiating hair-raising inclines and heart-stopping switchbacks, then threading through labyrinthine lanes on the valley floor — all of which landed me not at the hoped-for beach but a hillside littered with hundreds of deserted buildings. According to the sign, I had reached Kayaköy.

Soon after the Republic of Turkey was established in the 1920s, a “population exchange” mandated that Greek Orthodox adherents residing in Turkey be forcibly swapped for Ottoman Muslims residing in Greece. And the results were disastrous for this largely Christian community. Kayaköy’s crumbling basilica and abandoned chapels, fragments of frescoes still visible inside, provide ample proof.

Fascinated, I absentmindedly spent the full afternoon clambering up among them until a glimpse of distant water tinted Turkey’s signature shade of blue (the word “turquoise” actually comes from the French for “Turkish”) stopped me in my tracks. It was too late for Coldwater Cove. I had let opportunity evaporate. Then again, I reminded myself, sometimes that old cliché rings true — the journey is more important than the destination.


Info to Go

Dalaman Airport (DLM) receives daily arrivals from Istanbul plus frequent flights from Western Europe. Rental cars are available onsite. The region has a broad array of hotels and resorts; vacation rentals are another option. For more on the Turquoise Coast, visit www.goturkey.com.

Introducing

FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Explore Excursions

#globility

Insta Feed
Daily
Dec 13, 2024

The Ritz-Carlton, Sarasota Launches Holiday Programming

The Ritz-Carlton, Sarasota invites travelers to experience the magic of the holiday season with a full lineup of festive programming.

Pick Your Paradise: Experience Bali at 3 Incredible Hotels

Bali is a name synonymous with island bliss. But there is more than just one side to this incredible place. Get a sense for the variety of experiences Bali offers by learning about three hotels participating in Marriott Bonvoy® with distinctive opportunities for adventure and relaxation. With the Marriott Bonvoy Boundless® Card, earn points for free nights at each of these properties.

Daily
Dec 13, 2024

Rediscover Bambu Indah: Transformative Luxury and Green Beauty in Ubud’s Agrarian Riverside

Bambu Indah is a one-of-a-kind boutique hotel high on the Sayan Ridge, 15 minutes from the town of Ubud on the island of Bali in Indonesia. Surrounded by rice paddies, nestled among jungle trees and situated along the great Ayung River, Bambu Indah is an authentic nature sanctuary.

Daily
Dec 13, 2024

Taste Your Way Through Japan with These Unique Experiences

Ever wanted to embark on an udon-tasting journey around one of Japan’s prefectures? How about a soy-sauce tasting on an island? Up your trip to Japan with these unique, culinary-inspired experiences, sure to leave you with a full belly and some good stories.

Experience Next-Level Travel with Condor Airlines’ New A330neo Fleet

Condor Airlines completely renewed its long-haul fleet, featuring its new Airbus A330neo. Designed to elevate your travel experience, the A330neo is equipped with cutting-edge technology and offers unrivaled comfort, ensuring an exceptional journey for every passenger. With its striking signature striped livery, the A330neo not only promises a memorable flight but also enhances the start of your vacation from the moment you step aboard.

Daily
Dec 12, 2024

Indulge in Holiday Decadence at London’s St. James’s Hotel & Club, an Althoff Collection Hotel

The elegant, 5-star St. James’s Hotel & Club, an Althoff Collection Hotel, rolls out the Yule Tide welcome log this season with holiday treats that include special menus, caroling, a Festive Afternoon Tea, and views from its roof gardens and private suite terraces of New Year’s Eve fireworks bursting over the city. Decorated Christmas trees and baskets of clementines adorn guestrooms and suites, and this year’s Nutcracker theme will be evident in tree ornaments, banister decorations and red-and-green nutcracker figurines greeting guests as they arrive at the hotel.

eFlyer News
Dec 11, 2024

Air France & KLM Royal Dutch Airlines Partner with Kolet for Mobile Connectivity

Air France and KLM Royal Dutch Airlines announced a new partnership with Kolet, a French eSIM technology specialist, to offer reliable mobile connectivity in more than 190 countries.

United Airlines First to Purchase Sustainable Aviation Fuel for ORD

Chicago O’Hare International Airport will soon receive sustainable aviation fuel, all thanks to United Airlines, which became the first airline to purchase SAF for use at the airport, one of the largest in the United States. Neste, a producer of SAF, will provide up to 1 million gallons of its Neste MY Sustainable Aviation Fuel. The first supply arrived in August.

eFlyer News
Dec 11, 2024

Viking Names and Delivers Newest Ship in Italy

It’s been a month to remember for Viking, with the luxury cruise line announcing the name and delivery of its newest ocean ship, Viking Vela. The new boat joins Viking’s growing fleet of award-winning ocean ships and will spend her inaugural season sailing in the Mediterranean and Northern Europe.