I have lost count lately of the people I know who’ve rafted down the Amazon, chased icebergs in the Arctic or hiked the entire Appalachian Trail. And while I applaud their pluck, I am not about to vacation with them any time soon. The truth is, I prefer my adventures like my eggs — over easy. That’s why, when a break from bustling Istanbul was in order, I nixed ballooning in Cappadocia, decided against climbing Mount Ararat and instead hopped an 80-minute flight to Dalaman, gateway to the Turquoise Coast.
Considering this initial stretch of Turkey’s Mediterranean seaboard is renowned for beaches, you can be forgiven for thinking the most challenging activity available would be applying SPF 40 before plopping on the sand. On the contrary, merely reaching those blissful strands can be a memorable experience loaded with the sort of soft adventures that appeal to relative lollygaggers like me.
My initial foray to Iztuzu Beach is a case in point. The excursion began in Dalyan — a Lilliputian town on the bank of an eponymous river just 17 miles northwest of Dalaman Airport — where I’d heard I could grab a boat for the half-hour cruise downstream. Hiring one was surprisingly easy: Scores of identical vessels operated by a local cooperative lined the quay, the size of the fleet underscoring how busy this spot gets in July and August. Off-season, however, I had Dalyan Çayi pretty much to myself.
More channel than river, it is laced with 10-foot-tall reed beds, and the surfeit of wetland birds living within (over 150species in all) is a major draw for ornithological types. Yet the combination of scenery and solitude also lends the waterway a timeless, almost biblical feel. So rather than snapping photos of kingfishers and cormorants, I found myself scanning the bulrushes, half expecting to see baby Moses float by.
The palpable sense of history is enhanced by tombs dating from the 4th century B.C. poised high on the opposite bank. Of course, the Lycians who somehow managed to create these structures — imagine the elaborate façades of Ionic temples carved into a cliff face — weren’t the only ones to leave their mark. The nearby remains of Kaunos bear witness to Persians, Greeks, Romans and Byzantines as well.
Once a thriving port city, Kaunos suffered the same fate Ephesus did when silt gradually filled its harbor, severing its commercial lifeline. Unlike its famous Aegean cousin, though, this site is incredibly low-key. There is no supersized bus corral outside, no cordon of kitschy shops on the pathway in; and since its sprawling ruins are only partially excavated, hiking around the ancient baths and impressive amphitheater lets you unleash your inner Indiana Jones.
Such activity makes the prospect of finally lounging on Iztuzu Beach, at the mouth of Dalyan Çayi, all the more appealing. Parts, I was informed, are off-limits to visitors. But one can hardly complain, given the reason for that is the same reason the delta as a whole remains pristine. In a word, it’s turtles. The area was designated a conservation zone in the mid-1980s because Iztuzu was determined to be one of the last nesting grounds for endangered Caretta caretta, loggerhead sea turtles.
Tracks signal their presence May through September, whether they are the broad drag marks left by female loggerheads lumbering up to lay eggs or the fluttering flipper marks made by sea-bound hatchlings. Instinct aside, it is understandable why they’d long to return year after year. This sandy three-mile spit, lapped by the salty Mediterranean on one side and “sweet” river water on the other, now seems to exert an irresistible pull — even on me.
Locals, ironically, tend to motor upriver instead of down for their own aquatic adventures. Casting around for further day-trip ideas, I got a recommendation from my boatman, Capt. Rasit, for fishing capped by a dip in Lake Köyceg˘iz. He explained, “Dalyan means fish hatchery,” adding that outfitters run similar outings, supplying the gear and cooking the catch while guests swim. Tempting as that sounded, it was Rasit’s second suggestion which reeled me in: a stop at the Sultaniye “spa” about 25 minutes above Dalyan.
Located where river meets lake, the thermal spring and mineral-rich mud bath originally drew residents of Kaunos and are now magnets, in peak months at least, for Brits on packaged holidays. Luckily, I was alone except for a few regulars who pantomimed the procedure for me. The short version goes like this: Wallow in gray sludge, let the sun bake it onto your body, rinse under a cold shower, then soak until al dente in Sultaniye’s outdoor pool, where the water constantly hovers at 104 degrees.
The complex is far from opulent and, thanks to the sulfur content, decidedly smelly. Nevertheless, having paid a meager $18 ($3 for entry plus $15 for the boat trip) I was able to leave Dalyan with my skin soft and my wallet still well padded. The plan? To drive back toward the airport and continue another 31 miles southeast to Fethiye. As a regional center, Fethiye has more amenities than you’d usually expect in a city of 68,000. Being backed by the Taurus Mountains, it has a sublime setting, too.
But for me, Fethiye’s harbor took precedence, since boats departing from it promise easy access to offshore beaches, in the process allowing time-pressed travelers to get a taste of the classic Blue Cruise. Finding a vessel for the so-called “12 Islands Tour” wasn’t a problem. As I strolled the seaside promenade, captains of double-decker excursion boats, catamarans and traditional sailing gulets all pitched trips — their itineraries essentially the same despite dramatic price differences.
Whether charging $15 or $55, each spends seven to eight hours weaving through the crystalline Gulf of Fethiye, typically making five stops at pine-studded isles and seductive inlets. The most notable, perhaps, is Hamam Bay, a spot awash in myth — Mark Antony and Cleopatra reputedly honeymooned here — where it is possible to immerse literally in history by snorkeling above sunken ruins.
As if cruising opportunities weren’t enough to justify coming to Fethiye, the city also put me within five miles of Ölüdeniz, which boasts the bit of shoreline virtually every heat-seeking tourist in Turkey feels compelled to see. There, at the bottom of a winding mountain road just beyond a patch of fragrant evergreens, sits the blue, bathtub-calm lagoon that has launched a thousand postcards.
With its sweeping bow of white sand, the country’s most-photographed beach is indeed a beauty. The caveat is that this place is often crammed with sun worshippers in summer. At the height of the season, even the sky seems to fill as paragliders descending from the summit of Babadag˘ loop around the lagoon before landing at the pebbly beach beside it. Out of season, conversely, the majority of facilities are shuttered, giving the area a slightly mournful air.
Checking off Ölüdeniz left a single beach on my to-do list: a remote one I’d been told about called Coldwater Cove at the entrance to the adjacent Kaya Valley. Driving to it via Fethiye involved negotiating hair-raising inclines and heart-stopping switchbacks, then threading through labyrinthine lanes on the valley floor — all of which landed me not at the hoped-for beach but a hillside littered with hundreds of deserted buildings. According to the sign, I had reached Kayaköy.
Soon after the Republic of Turkey was established in the 1920s, a “population exchange” mandated that Greek Orthodox adherents residing in Turkey be forcibly swapped for Ottoman Muslims residing in Greece. And the results were disastrous for this largely Christian community. Kayaköy’s crumbling basilica and abandoned chapels, fragments of frescoes still visible inside, provide ample proof.
Fascinated, I absentmindedly spent the full afternoon clambering up among them until a glimpse of distant water tinted Turkey’s signature shade of blue (the word “turquoise” actually comes from the French for “Turkish”) stopped me in my tracks. It was too late for Coldwater Cove. I had let opportunity evaporate. Then again, I reminded myself, sometimes that old cliché rings true — the journey is more important than the destination.
Info to Go
Dalaman Airport (DLM) receives daily arrivals from Istanbul plus frequent flights from Western Europe. Rental cars are available onsite. The region has a broad array of hotels and resorts; vacation rentals are another option. For more on the Turquoise Coast, visit www.goturkey.com.
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