It may be hard to tear away from the abundance of colorful shops and cafés in the compact urban grid of central Melbourne, but this is a waterside city, after all, and it’s only fitting to try out the beach. Three miles south of the center you’ll find the attractions of hip and bohemian St. Kilda, where a historic pier juts into Port Philip Bay, the Esplanade skirts the beach, and restaurants and cafés abound.

With a fascinating history — the precinct was once the city’s red-light district — the neighborhood evolved into an upscale hangout. Outdoors a breakwater juts into the bay, allowing visitors to walk out to get a glimpse of the penguin colony in residence since the 1970s. Lessons are offered for those who want to join the kite surfers floating overhead on the wafting winds. Sundays a huge arts, crafts and local foods market sets up along the curve of the Esplanade, and at the far end nostalgia seekers can venture through the gaping open-mouthed gate of the clown entrance to Luna Park and take a ride on the Scenic Railway, the world’s oldest continuously operating roller coaster.

Luna Park amusement park at St. Kilda Beach © CHU-WEN LIN | DREAMSTIME.COM

But don’t miss the main attraction: joining the friendly locals relaxing in the vibrant restaurants and bars clustered around the hub of Fitzroy and Acland streets. Bustling Rococo serves its signature antipasti boards along with risottos, panini and red or white pizzas. In the cozy dining room of longtime favorite Café Di Stasio, sample chef specialty “Italianalty” dishes with fresh pasta made twice daily and Negronis set out on the high marble bar. Look for the reopening of the redesigned fish and chips kiosk and Pontoon restaurant of Stokehouse on the Beach, devastated by fire in 2014. Popular Claypots Seafood Bar boasts “the best seafood in Australia,” but the all-time favorite remains Donovans, perched right on the shore with floor-to-ceiling windows, sofas and sandstone fireplaces. From its menu of stylish comfort food select the favorite of beloved Australian entertainer Barry Humphries, aka Dame Edna Everage, who confided we should order grilled snapper with lemon.

Performers from Trevor Noah to Julio Iglesias appear at the historic Art Deco Palais Theatre. Steps away, catch a concert, ballet or show at the National Theatre Melbourne. A soothing, two-hour Renew or Unwind session at the Aurora Spa of the ultra-modern Prince Hotel proves a good way to wind up a day at the beach.