Northern Italy has no shortage of mountains. The Alps form its boundaries with France and Switzerland, and farther east the Dolomites, also part of the Alps, draw the line between Italy and Austria. Altitudes reach mainland Europe’s highest point, and more than a dozen peaks in the Dolomites alone reach well above 10,000 feet.

At these altitudes, snow is almost assured from November through April, and Italian skiers have headed for the Alps since the sport began. It didn’t take long for the rest of the world to follow, and today Italy’s resorts carry some of skiing’s most legendary names, places on every avid skier’s life list: Cortina d’Ampezzo, Courmayeur, Cervinia. By far, the widest range of ski opportunities is in the Dolomites, where a dozen areas add up a staggering 750 miles of skiable trails. The skier’s biggest problem may be choosing which one.

Mountain scenery, après-ski life, lodging facilities, snow conditions — all the factors that might influence choices — are superb everywhere, so the decision might come down to simply a matter of personal style . . . or some especially appealing feature, such as being pulled up the mountain by a horse-drawn ski lift.

Skiing in Italy differs a bit from skiing in the United States. Most noticeable may be the trail level designations. Beginner runs are often more like American intermediate, and even beginner trails may have dangerous drop-offs on one side. Safety fences are less common; and because of the vast areas, grooming is often left up to nature.

It is not unusual for a single ski run to take several hours, going from high in the mountains all the way into the resort town at the base. Of course, most mountains have a system of pistes and lifts that allow skiers to enjoy the higher slopes for the day and ride lifts back into town or ski to the resort on their last run. Be aware that not all pistes are “swept” by the ski patrol at the end of the day as they are at most U.S. resorts, so allow time to get off the mountain safely before dark, and don’t ski alone.

UNESCO cited the Dolomites’ spectacular glacial landscapes of pinnacles and vertical rock faces when they named the region a World Heritage site, and the scenery is indeed world-class. So is the skiing. Scattered among these 18 snowcapped peaks are 12 different ski resorts, with Alpine villages in the valleys between them. Each has its own style and appeal, and choosing one village as a base doesn’t limit the ski terrain available. A single Dolomiti Superski pass allows access to lifts and trails at all 12 ski areas, and many are connected by lifts and ski trails.

The largest town in the region is Cortina d’Ampezzo. The 1956 Winter Olympics put Cortina on the jet set map and turned a secret hideout of serious skiers and European aristocracy into an international resort to rival St. Moritz in the Swiss Alps. The result is that Cortina is now crowded with visitors and with buildings that often make it hard to see the mountains surrounding it. But walk five minutes in any direction from the high-end shops and cafés of busy Corso Italia and there will be a sweeping view to the Cinque Torri, five peaks that tower above.

Dining on the terrace of Rifugio Averau in the Cinque Torri area in Cortina d’Ampezzo © Giuseppe Ghedina

Cortina d’Ampezzo also has the largest concentration of ski facilities, with more than three dozen lifts taking skiers to snowfields at the top of the highest ridges, just below the summits. Long runs from the summits continue right into town, and lifts carry skiers into the mountains almost from the doors of their hotels.

Along with downhill skiing, Cortina offers miles of cross-country trails through spectacular snow-covered landscapes, a bobsled run and the Olympic rink, Stadio del Ghiaccio, for ice skaters. Non-skiing family members can shop for designer labels, jewelry, fine art, furs and Italian leather goods or spend their days luxuriating in one of Cortina’s several spas.

The smaller resorts of Val Gardena/Alpe di Siusi offer more intimate ski terrain, about 100 miles of ski trails, but they combine with the other three adjacent valleys formed by the Gruppo del Sella peaks — Val di Fassa, Alta Badia and Arabba/Marmolada — for a total of more than 300 miles of interconnected ski trails. These resorts provide access to skiing on the Marmolada Glacier. Without the cachet or nightlife of Cortina, these lesser-known mountains and resorts also don’t have Cortina’s crowds, and many skiers prefer their more authentic Alpine atmosphere.

La Villa, the main village of Alta Badia, also has a good range of accommodations and leisure facilities, and its gentle ski slopes make it popular with families. But that doesn’t mean it’s boring to expert skiers: Each December, La Villa hosts the Alpine Ski World Cup on the Gran Risa slope, chosen for the event because it’s one of the most technically difficult slopes in all of the Alps.

Of the Dolomiti Superski resorts, families with beginning and intermediate skiers should stick to Cortina d’Ampezzo, Arabba/Marmolada and Alta Badia, the only ones with beginner terrain. Those also have the most intermediate pistes at about 50 percent each, but all the Dolomiti Superski resorts offer at least 20 percent — except Alpe di Siusi/Seiser Alm, which has only about 12 percent intermediate. Alpe di Siusi/Seiser Alm claims 86 percent of its runs for advanced skiers, by far the highest, with Alta Pusteria/Hochpustertal and Val Gardena-Gröden each with about 65 percent advanced terrain. Really expert skiers thrill at Passo Rolle or Plan de Corones/Kronplatz, with 20 and 25 percent, respectively, rated expert — the highest skill level.

Experienced skiers in good condition can combine the highlights of several different ski areas in one of the popular tour routes, such as the Gardena Ronda Express, which begins at the village of La Villa, at Alta Badia. The Plans and Frara gondolas and the Cir chairlift carry skiers to the top of the descent into Selva di Val Gardena, where they take the Ciampinoi to the World Cup downhill slope leading to Santa Cristina. An aerial tramway and underground tunnel connect to Seceda, and from its top there’s a six-mile downhill run to Ortisei. The Seceda lift takes them back up for the return route to Alta Badia. This six-hour tour includes 24 lifts and 22 miles of downhill skiing.

The view from Marmolada © Filip Bjorkman | Dreamstime.com

Perhaps the most unusual experience in the region is part of the Grande Guerra route, which traverses mountain terrain that was fiercely contested in World War I (hence the name). It is usually done with a guide or in a group that knows the route, as it includes three different ski areas — Arabba-Marmolada/Malga Ciapela and Alleghe/Civetta-Falzarego. Views of Marmolada Glacier are spectacular, as is the descent to the Serai Canyon and the chairlift ride through the chasm between the Averau and Nuvolau rocks. But even more memorable may be the experience of skiing behind a team of horses that pulls skiers from Sass Dlacia to the Armentarola ski lift.

Dolomite Mountains Ltd. specializes in customized ski safaris that combine guided skiing with 5-star hotels, fine dining and transfers between resorts by helicopter or private car. Each day’s itinerary is planned by a professional mountain guide, based on snow and weather conditions, fitness levels and skiing abilities. These three-, six- or nine-night ski safaris make it easy to ski from valley to valley.

Italy Info to Go

International carriers bring skiers to Venice Marco Polo Airport (VCE), closest to Cortina and eastern Dolomiti Superski resorts. Closer to the western Dolomite resorts of Alpe di Siusi/Seiser Alm is Bolzano Airport (BZO). Shuttles are available from either airport. The road between Bolzano and Cortina is kept plowed and open all winter, but Alpine snowstorms can cause serious delays; allow plenty of time to make return flights.

Where to Stay in Italy

Grand Hotel Savoia Cortina’s venerable grande dame is updated with smart contemporary furnishings; rent ski equipment right in the hotel. Via Roma 62, Cortina d’Ampezzo $$$

Hotel Ciasa Salares The classic Alpine chalet sits on a mountainside, five minutes from ski lifts. Relax après-ski in the spa. Strada Prè de Vì 31, San Cassiano, Alta Badia $$$

Hotel Gardena Grödnerhof Three minutes’ walk from the gondola to Alpe di Siusi, the luxurious Gardena features a traditional Tyrolean Stuben and a spa. Via Vidalong 3, Ortisei $$$

Restaurants in Italy

Anna Stuben Gourmet Restaurant The romantic atmosphere is warmed by a ceramic woodstove. Savor traditional Alpine cuisine such as ravioli of chanterelles (finferli) sauced with wild thyme. Hotel Gardena Grödnerhof, Via Vidalong 3, Ortisei $$$

Ristorante Ospitale No surprises on the menu of traditional Alpine cuisine at this inviting and rustic local favorite, just authentic and delicious dishes. Via Ospitale 1, Cortina d’Ampezzo $$

La Siriola The Michelin-starred chef loves to innovate with local ingredients and wild Alpine herbs; match dishes with fine wines by the glass. Hotel Ciasa Salares, Strada Prè de Vì 31, San Cassiano, Alta Badia $$$

Read more about Italy’s Valle d’Aosta.