It’s true that there are more sheep in Scotland than people (10 million to 5 million), and whiskey distilleries are as common as the heather on the hills, but the feisty spirit of this nation breaks those stereotypes. As the carving on the gate of Edinburgh Castle says, “Nemo Me Impune Lacessit” -No one harms me with impunity.

Scotland is both a sportsman’s paradise and an art lover’s dream, a place for city slickers and country moments. Long overshadowed by its neighbor to the south, England, Scotland began to claim back its national identity in 1997 when the Scottish Parliament was reinstated in the capital, Edinburgh, after being dormant for more than 200 years.

Glasgow, once the shipbuilding center of the United Kingdom, has reinvented itself over the past 20 years as a funky arts community and shopping mecca. When visiting Britain, London is no longer the only stop for sophistication.

Glasgow

Glasgow, roughly translated from Scots Gaelic, means “the green place.” As the largest city in Scotland and the heart of the Clyde River Valley, Glasgow surprises the biased visitor. In the 19th century, Glasgow was home to wealthy merchants who made their money in the rum and sugar trade in the West Indies. Glasgow’s Clyde River became the shipbuilding center of the United Kingdom. Such majestic seagoing vessels as the Queen Elizabeth II and the Royal Yacht Britannia were built in Glasgow.

When the shipbuilding industry waned, Glasgow hit hard times, becoming better known for its Easter egg-colored tenement blocks than for its legendary craftsmanship. Happily, the city reinvented itself in the mid-1980s. Where shipbuilding docks once stood, world-class rock musicians like Sting and Bob Dylan now perform at the Scottish Exhibition Convention Center.

Glasgow’s city center blends classic Victorian architecture with modern creations. Buildings designed by famed architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh, (who inspired American architect Frank Lloyd Wright) are sprinkled around town. The art students in Glasgow have also helped form the city’s new identity. In a phenomenon similar to the punk explosion in Leeds during the late ‘70s and early ‘80s, the student population has fostered a diverse music scene: names such as Annie Lennox, Travis, Belle & Sebastian, Franz Ferdinand, among others.

Other famous Glaswegians include actor Robert Carlyle and comic Billy Connolly.

Next to London, Glasgow is the United Kingdom’s top shopping center. A stroll down Buchanan Street, a pedestrian strip, is a window shopper’s dream. A combination of nationally recognized shops, such as Monsoon, Whittard of Chelsea Tea Shop and Lush are mixed in with Frasers, the Scottish answer to England’s Barkers department store.

Edinburgh

Roughly an hour train ride away from Glasgow is Edinburgh. Though it is Scotland’s capital, the city’s population is a mere 500,000 people, about the size of Boston. Scotland’s rolling terrain is a result of volcanoes and glaciers working with and against each other, and Edinburgh’s hilly landscape is a perfect example of it. These hills provide visitors with breathtaking views of the city and the North Sea.

Edinburgh’s thriving student community keeps this medieval city young. Princes Street, the main shopping drag, acts as the dividing line between the modern city and Old Town. The new city is home to a slew of chic hangouts and shops, while Old Town provides a step back in time with narrow passes, abruptly changing streets and cobblestone walks. The most recognizable part of Old Town is the fairy-tale-esque Edinburgh Castle, built into the rock on its perch at the start of the Royal Mile. It’s here that the city’s royal and rogue history can be explored. One tiny nook in the castle boasts the birthplace of the British Empire. The claustrophobia-inducing room is where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to James I (or as he is known to the Scots, James VI), who united the Scottish and Engli sh royal lines.

The start of the Royal Mile at the castle gates is also where those suspected of witchcraft were given a gruesome test. Crammed into barrels lined with spikes, the accused were rolled down the length of the bumpy mile to Holyrood Palace. Those living at the end were found guilty, and the dead innocent.

Where to Stay

Prestonfield House

History gets a funky makeover at Prestonfield House, a cozy hotel nestled next to Arthur’s Seat on the south side of Edinburgh. The interior mixes rock-star chic with traditional décor. Contemporary pop tunes subtly play in the background, enhancing the accent of leopard-print ottomans against deep burgundy tapestries. During this year’s MTV awards ceremony, rock groups holed up at the posh manse. Ewan McGregor’s mum stays here when she’s in town, as does Shirley Manson from the band Garbage. The lush surroundings stimulate the senses without overpowering them. This 17th century manor, with its green pastures, gives the impression it is miles from Edinburgh, but it is only a five-minute drive from the city center. Keeping with the property’s artsy veneer, guests are greeted by doormen dressed completely in black-from shirt to shoes, kilt to socks. If it feels as if you’ve stepped into a Vogue photo shoot-that’s exactly the point. Prestonfield House is used frequently for photo backdrops.
Prestonfield House, Priestfield Road, Edinburgh
Scotland EH16 5UT, United Kingdom, tel 44 31 668 3346
fax 44 31 668 3976, www.prestonfield.com

The Glasshouse

Get a taste of the Scotland of the new millennium at The Glasshouse, a five-minute walk from Princes Street. At first glance, this boutique hotel is unassuming. The street entrance of the five-star property is the Gothic structure of the Lady Glenorchy Church. But the backside reveals its modern appeal: walls of glass providing lovely views of Edinburgh’s rolling landscape. The contemporary marble, granite and glass décor give The Glasshouse a chic feel. Student art exhibits and nude female images by famed photographers Trevor and Faye Yerbury enhance the hotel’s trendy design. The hotel, which has 64 rooms and suites, occupies the top two floors of the OMNI development. This location gives The Glasshouse’s two-acre rooftop garden the feel of seclusion while in the city center. Perhaps this is why celebrities like Kelly Osbourne and Meryl Streep stay here when they are in town. Each room has satellite TV, DDI telephone, voicemail, ISDN, and fax and modem hookup.
The Glasshouse, 2 Greenside Place, Edinburgh
Scotland EH1 3AA, United Kingdom, tel 44 31 525 8200
fax 44 31 525 8202, www.theetoncollection.com

Gleneagles

Enjoy the opulence of 1920s Britain in this old-fashioned grand hotel. Gleneagles provides the utmost in relaxation. Only an hour north of Glasgow, this retreat can melt away the stress of the city. Rooms in the original building, built in 1924, are equipped with luxurious bathrooms, which provide the option of a shower or a soak in a claw-foot bathtub. Thick, wool drapes help keep out the damp nighttime chill from the loch. If visitors can pull themselves from the coziness of the lodge, adventures in the glen await. Gleneagles is a sportsman’s paradise. Whether you’re interested in shooting clay pigeons, fly-fishing, equestrian sport or off-roading, this estate has experts to help visitors feel like pros. Oh yeah, they have a golf course too. Wood fires in the entrance hall welcome guests back from a day of recreation. Guests can unwind in the hotel’s Egyptian-themed spa, complete with an outdoor hot tub.
The Gleneagles Hotel, Auchterarder, Perthshire
Scotland PH3 INF, United Kingdom
tel 44 1764 662231, fax 44 1764 662134
www.gleneagles.com

Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort and Spa

The Old Course Hotel, overlooking the links for which this five-star hotel was named, offers a luxurious stay for golf enthusiast and sightseer alike. The majority of Old Course’s 134 rooms have balconies and views of St. Andrews, the North Sea or the Old Course itself. The hotel also offers 24-hour room service, chauffeur service and same-day laundry and dry cleaning. The concierge can book guests on fishing expeditions, tours, horseback riding and other recreational activities.
Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort and S pa
St. Andrews, Kingdom of Fife
Scotland KY16 9SP, United Kingdom
tel 44 1334 474371, fax 44 1334 477668
www.oldcoursehotel.co.uk

Where to Dine

The thought of traditional Scottish cuisine can make even the most adventurous palate skeptical. Haggis, a sausage made of sheep innards and oats, is usually to blame. But new eateries are working to debunk the myth of bland, flavorless and, for some, frightening food.

The Glenturret Distillery and The Famous Grouse Experience

The Glenturret Distillery, the oldest in Scotland, is home to a delightful restaurant that explores traditional Scottish cuisine with a whiskey-drenched twist. The chef incorporates The Famous Grouse brand whiskey, which is made on the premises, into various dishes to demonstrate the versatility of Scotland’s national drink. The eatery also serves a savory rendition of haggis. A small slice is deep fried, then neatly stacked with its traditional side dish, neeps and tatties (that’s turnips and potatoes to Americans). Glenturret is located on the outskirts of the medieval village of Creiff (actor Ewan McGregor’s hometown), and also provides picnic areas, nature trails and The Famous Grouse Experience whiskey tour.
Glenturret Distillery and The Famous Grouse Experience
The Hosh, Creiff, Perthshire
Scotland PH7 4HA, United Kingdom
tel 44 764 65 65 65
fax 44 764 65 43 66
www.thefamousgrouse.co.uk

Number One
For veal that melts in your mouth and a banana soufflé lighter than air, take a seat at Number One, the basement restaurant at the Balmoral Hotel in Edinburgh. An informed staff helps guests choose from Number One’s extensive wine list, so the full flavor of the meal can be experienced. Executive Chef Jeff Bland and his team at Number One received the Michelin Star for 2004; currently this is the only restaurant in Edinburgh to receive such praise. Need any more convincing? Prince William and the Scottish rugby team are frequent customers.
Number One, 1 Princes St., Edinburgh
Scotland EH2 2EQ, United Kingdom, tel 44 31 557 6727
fax 44 31 557 8740

Cafe Royal Circle Bar

Those hankering for oysters and Guinness should make Cafe Royal Circle Bar a must on their list. Used for scenes in the Academy Award-winning film Chariots of Fire, this Scottish pub blends the humble appeal of traditional fare with the ambience of Victorian sophistication. Cafe Royal has been pouring pints since 1862 and is considered an institution within the city.
Cafe Royal Circle Bar, 19 W. Register St.
Edinburgh EH2 2AA, United Kingdom, tel 44 131 556 1884

Getting Out

For those whose idea of kicking back is kicking it up, Edinburgh is ready to serve. Looking to rub shoulders with the up-and-coming 25 to 40 age group? Put on some party duds and duck into The Living Room (113-115 George St., tel 44 870 44 22 718). This 250-person-capacity bar is open until 1 a.m., perfect for those who need to be in bed at a modest hour. Or hang with the affluent and fashion savvy at The Opal Lounge (51a George St., tel 44 131 226 2275, www.opallounge.co.uk). The bar is open until 3 a.m., and the scene has the touch of royalty (Prince William has made a couple appearances at this discreetly situated basement bar). More of a history buff? With brooding skies overhead, it’s hard not to picture the Old Town as it was during the Dark Ages. The Witchery Mystery and Murder Tour (tel 44 131 225 6745, www.witcherytours.com) gives visitors a feel for the morbid escapades of Edinburgh’s past. The nighttime tours leave between 7 and 10 p.m. and are divided into two categories: Ghost & Gore Tour (offered May-Aug., $14) and Murder & Mystery Tour (year-round, $14). Guides in character (along with some surprises) transport visitors back in time.

Detox from workplace worries at Sheraton Grand Hotel’s Spa One (tel 44 131 221 7777, www.one-spa.com), conveniently located next to the Edinburgh Convention Center. Make an appointment as a day guest and pamper yourself in the rooftop thermal suite. Or indulge in Craniosacral Therapy ($120), perfect for those suffering from chronic pain and migraines. The facilities here are so terrific, the Scottish rugby team visits Spa One after matches to recover from the game’s abuses. St. Andrews may be a golfer’s dream come true, but this medieval university town has more to offer. The beach directly in front of the Old Course Hotel is where the famous running scene from Chariots of Fire was shot. In town, visitors can wander through Scotland’s oldest university, St. Andrews, founded in 1411, or through the ruins of the 13th century castle perched next to the dark, cool waters of the North Sea. But if all that walking makes you thirsty, stop in to the Jigger Inn, adjacent to the Old Course Hotel. This cozy pub is considered the 19th hole at Old Course. Want to know the buzz on the links? The caddies chitchat here after shifts. The inn is a great place to curl up next to a fire and nurse a whiskey.

Those spending time on the west coast can feel like native Glaswegians at the Horseshoe Pub on Drury Lane. Sandwiched between Buchanan Street and Central Station, the Horseshoe has a no-frills atmosphere. There’s no trendy menu, music or lager, but it boasts its own superstar among its regulars. A gold record from Travis, a Glaswegian pop band, is proudly displayed behind the bar. The band’s drummer, Neil Primrose, was a barkeep at the Horseshoe. When the lads needed a place to record their album The Man Who, the bar manager offered the space above the pub. The rest is golden-record history.

Want to Go?

Major carriers connecting the United States to Scotland include Continental Airlines (www.continental.com) with direct flights from Newark (EWR); US Airways (www.usairways.com) with direct flights from Philadelphia (PHL); and American Airlines (www.aa.com) with direct flights from Chicago (ORD). For more information, visit the Scottish Tourist Board Web site at www.visitscotland.com.

Tracing Your Roots

Genealogy is not only one of the fastest growing pursuits worldwide, it’s also one of Scotland’s greatest draws. Estimates suggest more than 50 million people worldwide can claim Scottish ancestry. That figure includes at least 12 million Americans. Happily, genealogical research in Scotland is relatively simple. The country boasts a readily accessible database of records dating back to the mid-16th century. Thanks to Internet technology, people of Scottish heritage can research their family trees without ever leaving home. That search begins at www.ancestralscotland.com. Working with no other details but your last name, its search engine will tell you how many families with that name were counted in the 1881 census and where they lived. If you know other personal qualifiers-like a hometown or parish-you can target right in on a farm, house, town, district or village. The site also offers links to sites for cross-referencing information-General Register of Scotland (www.gro-scotland.gov.uk) and National Archives (www.nas.gov.uk). Let the search begin!