Following World War II, Providence was down on its luck. Once a thriving manufacturing hub, Rhode Island’s capital lost jobs, people and its economic base as industries shifted to other parts of the country. When the urban renewal movement swept major cities in the 1950s and ’60s, Providence was too poor to participate. While communities across the nation razed older buildings and neighborhoods to make way for shopping centers, office buildings and highways, Providence unwittingly avoided the wrecking ball.

As a result, Providence boasts a larger percentage of buildings on the National Historic Register — including its entire downtown — than any other U.S. city. Untouched by urban renewal, Providence has beautifully preserved its collection of Colonial, Federal, Greek Revival and Victorian homes and buildings.

“Happily, Providence didn’t have that money to do (urban renewal), so they were stuck, as they would have felt then, with these extraordinary buildings,” said Roger Mandle, president of the Rhode Island School of Design.

With development of the city’s waterfront and historic buildings, Rhode Island’s largest city has experienced a renaissance that has breathed new life into its businesses, citizens, arts and cultural scene and tourism opportunities.

“People from all around the country are now looking at Providence with a new eye, and they certainly like what they see,” said Providence Mayor David N. Cicilline. “We have more than $3 billion in investment. The word is getting out that it’s a new day for Providence.”

Developers are revitalizing Providence’s downtown, known as Downcity, by restoring historic buildings and adapting them for commercial and residential use. Real estate developer Cornish Associates has restored six of these downtown buildings, most of which were former department stores or office buildings. The $100 million project has created revamped retail space on the ground floors with loft-style apartments in the upper floors. About 75 percent of the retail space and 93 percent of the residential space is leased. The retail space has attracted an eclectic mix of stores, such as home design shops, an upscale salon, book stores, art galleries and several trendy restaurants and cafes.

By combining retail and residential space, Downcity has activity around the clock, creating a vibrant neighborhood in which to live and work. At the same time, the thriving downtown has increased Providence’s tax base for the second consecutive year.

“Growing our tax base is critical to our ability to meet the costs of government over the next decade, but beyond the economic value and growth of our tax base, downtown revitalization has really reignited, reestablished the downtown as a place to live,” Cicilline said.

The development also has attracted major companies, such as gaming technology company Gtech Corporation, which is moving its worldwide headquarters to downtown Providence. Marriott is establishing a Renaissance Hotel in a former Masonic temple, which is undergoing a $62 million renovation. Hilton also is building a new hotel while the Westin is expanding its space downtown.

But it’s not all business. Providence has ensured that its dynamic arts and cultural community has a presence in Downcity. The Providence Black Repertory Company built its new Cultural and Education Center here and plans to add a second stage, classrooms and rehearsal space.

According to Janet Raymond, senior vice president of operations and economic development for the Greater Providence Chamber of Commerce, the surge of growth is a result of 20 years of planning by the city and state, which included reclaiming land and rivers covered by concrete, and removing train tracks that separated downtown. These projects spurred the development of commercial space and created a more livable downtown.

With a population of just 174,000, Providence’s top industries include healthcare, financial and professional services, educ ation, arts and culture, and hospitality and tourism. For much of its history, the city has been a haven for artists and creativity. In the 1700s, costume jewelry was invented in Providence, making the city the costume jewelry capital of the United States. Providence remains one of the top jewelry manufacturing sites in the country.

Providence’s educational institutions, including Brown University, Rhode Island School of Design and Johnson and Wales University, have played a significant role in maintaining a thriving arts scene and supplying new creative talent.

“RISD is involved as much as it can be in the social and educational fabric of the community because we believe that the environment we help to create here comes back to us,” Mandle said.

Although Providence has several world-class museums, its most beloved work of art comes alive during warm summer evenings when WaterFire — a series of 100 bonfire sculptures floating in the water while a musical program plays in the background — lights up Providence’s three rivers. In its 11th year, WaterFire has become the city’s signature art attraction.

As the fires blaze late into the evening and music reverberates throughout the city, tens of thousands flock to the streets to take in the beautiful simplicity of WaterFire. Amid the pulsing crowds, Providence revels in its own success as a city that saved itself by using what it had all along — a storied history, stunning architecture and a flourishing arts community.

LODGING

HOTEL PROVIDENCE

Beautifully restored and richly decorated, Hotel Providence offers its guests the convenience of Downcity while enjoying first-class luxury accommodations. Its plush beds with soft down comforters hold the cure for insomnia. All 80 guestrooms feature duo-tone tiger maple furniture, original artwork, rain head showers and quality bath amenities. Guests can enjoy fine Italian fare at L’Epicureo. $$$$
HOTEL PROVIDENCE
311 Westminster St.
tel 401 861 8000, fax 401 861 8002
www.hotelprovidence.com

HOTEL DOLCE VILLA

From its crisp linens to marble floors, a sparkling white motif lends a trendy air to this all-suite, extended-stay hotel nestled in the heart of Federal Hill, Providence’s Little Italy. All 14 suites feature memory-foam beds, fully equipped kitchens, whirlpool tubs, high-speed Internet and custom- made furniture. $$$$
HOTEL DOLCE VILLA
63 DePasquale Plaza
tel 401 383 7031, fax 401 383 7041
www.dolcevillari.com

PROVIDENCE BILTMORE

Since the doors opened at this grand hotel in 1922, guests have enjoyed its opulent accommodations and historic charm. Its 291 guestrooms, 21 one-bedroom suites and 139 junior suites are tastefully appointed and are rumored to be the largest in Rhode Island. $$$$
PROVIDENCE BILTMORE
11 Dorrance St.
tel 401 421 0700, fax 401 455 3050
www.providencebiltmore.com

DINING

HEMENWAY’S SEAFOOD GRILL AND OYSTER BAR

According to one local cab driver, he’s had more pick-ups and drop-offs at this restaurant than at any other place in town.With its fresh seafood dishes, river views and elegant atmosphere, it’s easy to understand Hemenway’s popularity. $$-$$$
HEMENWAY’S SEAFOOD GRILL AND OYSTER BAR
121 S. Main St.
tel 401 351 8570, fax 401 351 8594
www.hemenwaysseafood.com

TAZZA

Whether grabbing a morning coffee, lunching with friends or having an after-dinner cocktail, Tazza has become Downcity’s favorite gathering place. In addition to serving quality food, the funky venue showcases a variety of local talent with readings, fashion shows, musical performances, films and animation. $$
TAZZA
250 Westminster St.
tel 401 421 3300, fax 401 421 0031
www.tazzacaffe.com

ZOOMA BAR RISTORANTE

There’s no shortage of great eateries in Federal Hill and Zooma is no exception. Serving traditional Neapolitan dishes derived from family recipes, Zooma’s cuisine selection ranges from tasty pastas to wood-oven pizzas to fresh meat and seafood entrees.
ZOOMA BAR RISTORANTE
245 Atwells Ave.
tel 401 383 2002, fax 401 383 2050
www.zoomari.net

DIVERSIONS

Visitors can enjoy the multi-sensory art experience of WaterFire – by strolling along cobblestone paths or riding in a gondola. Crackling bonfires, fragrant wood smoke and musical background create a magical evening for all ages. The Sovereign Plaza Ballroom and Verizon Jazz Stage host live musical performances on select nights that draw thousands to dance in the streets.

The RISD Museum of Art (224 Benefit St., tel 401 454 6500, www.risd.edu/museum) houses more than 80,000 works of art tracing the history of art. In addition to pieces from around the world, the museum has an American wing in the Pendleton House that displays an exquisite collection of 18th and 19th cen-tury decorative arts and furniture.

The Benefit Street: Mile of History tour takes visitors on a journey through Providence’s historic East End (www.rihs.org). The tour showcases 200 well-preserved Colonial homes, complete with brick sidewalks and antique gas lamps. The Providence Black Repertory Company (276 Westminster St., tel 401 351 0353, www.blackrep.org) is a year-round venue dedicated to celebrating and performing African-American art.

At Home with David N. Cicilline, Mayor of Providence

A native of Providence and Brown University alumnus, Mayor David N. Cicilline began his political career by serving four terms as state representative from District 4, on the city’s East Side. In 2002, Cicilline was elected mayor of Providence, capturing 84 percent of the vote.

Global Traveler: Most of your life has been spent living and working in Providence. What elements of the city have drawn you to establish your home and career here?
David N. Cicilline: Providence is a city of a size and scale that make it a really wonderful place to live. It’s a city you can get around. It has all of the sophistication of a major metropolitan area, but the charm of a small town. It has a very vibrant arts and cultural community, which really contributes to the quality of life. Everyone recognizes the three great cities of the Northeast as Boston, Providence and New York and this one is right in the middle and travel to those other two cities is really easy.

GT: When you became mayor, a legacy of scandal and corruption cast a dark shadow over the office. How have you restored public trust and confidence in the city leadership?
DNC: First, I began by assembling a team of highly qualified professionals — establishing very transparent and predictable processes in city government so that people knew that city government was honest. We implemented a series of financial reforms that demonstrated we were getting our financial house in order, which was very important. I refused to accept campaign contributions from city employees or vendors that did business with the city, which was a source of considerable problems. It was a serious issue — in the past, so by breaking that connection between politics and money, it sent a very strong message. We did things to really demonstrate that we would decrease the cost of government while improving the quality of services from the government.

GT: How does city government support Providence’s businesses, arts and educational communities?
DNC: We have a series of partnerships. For example, I created a department of arts and culture and tourism — a cabinet-level position for the first time — to support the arts and culture organizations in our city and to support the importance of that in our city’s economy and quality of life. I reorganized and created a new economic development agency called the Providence Economic Development Partnership and really brought top civic and business leaders together to help the city develop and implement a good economic development strategy. That agency provides loans and technical assistance and training to existing and emerging businesses. It’s really about creating a city that provides good services, addresses infrastructure issues and creates an environment that’s attractive for business investment, educational opportunities and artistic opportunities.

GT: What are some of the advantages for those doing business in the city?
DNC: We are at the center of a very densely populated metropolitan area, so the customer base in the surrounding region is substantial. There’s an enormous amount of momentum, so I think there is a great buzz about the city.We have a very strong work force and the quality of life in the city makes it an attractive place for people to live and work. I think the most important benefit that we provide — that is the greatest value to any new or existing business — is to be sure that city government is a partner in economic development and not an obstacle. At the center of all of that is honest government. Businesses want to grow and move to a city where they know the government is honest and that they have an even playing field and that they have a fair chance of succeeding in their business.

GT: What’s next for Providence?
DNC: We’re in a really enviable position of having two areas of our city — the waterfront and the land, which will become available when (Route) 195 is moved. It’s pretty unusual to be a city as old as Providence and to have these incredibly exciting and new development opportunities. Those present very exciting opportunities for job creation, development of great green space, additional housing and commercial and retail space, so that’s what’s next on the horizon — continue to do the work that’s ongoing in the neighborhoods of Providence and continue to thoughtfully and carefully plan the next frontier.

INFO TO GO

The nine-mile trip from T.F. Green Airport (PVD) in Warwick, R.I., to Providence takes 10 to 15 minutes. High-speed Acela Express trains serve Providence along Amtrak’s Northeast corridor between Washington, D.C., New York and Boston. For tickets, go to www.amtrak.com.