After almost a week without running into another American, we were surprised to hear a stranger call out, “Are you from Texas?” Standing in a narrow passageway on the ancient streets of Valletta, where the Knights of Malta had stood centuries before, we met a fellow Texan — and one with a Maltese accent at that. The stranger turned out to be Chuck, a retired U.S. Air Force serviceman who grew up on this 122-square-mile island in the Mediterranean before moving to the United States after WWII, then finally retiring to Corpus Christi, Texas.

The changes that Malta has experienced in Chuck’s lifetime are paralleled in few places on the globe. Malta was one of the most heavily bombed sites during World War II, hit by twice as many bombs as London during the height of the blitz. Many residents from that era, like Chuck, left the island to seek work after the destruction.

We found few reminders of Malta’s turbulent 20th century. Instead, we discovered relics of its long-ago history and evidence of enthusiastic planning for the future. Following its recent admission into the European Union, Malta is charging ahead — buoyed by a vibrant movie industry and a booming tourism business, which accounts for a quarter of the nation’s economic activity and 40,000 jobs.

Located right in the middle of the Mediterranean, the nation of Malta (www.visitmalta.com) comprises three islands: bustling Malta, rugged Gozo and nearly uninhabited Comino. Tourism — primarily from Brits and Europeans — may be booming on these lovely isles now, but travelers have long been enchanted by Malta. Some of the oldest stone ruins on earth, dating back more than five millennia, stand here. Three thousand years ago, Phoenician traders came to the island. During the Crusades, knights journeyed here to protect pilgrims on the way to the Holy Land.

Malta’s sybaritic beach resorts and spas remain relatively undiscovered by American tourists, but much of the landscape looks familiar — a familiarity bred by the many Hollywood movies filmed on location here. Blessed with a mild climate, picturesque settings and diverse landscape, the islands of Malta, Comino and Gozo have been featured in such films as Troy, Gladiator (that was a replica of the Colosseum), Popeye, The Count of Monte Cristo and the recently released Oliver Stone film Alexander.

Although the movie industry has filmed on all three islands, other business activity is centered on Malta in the capital city, Valletta — a walled city that once served as headquarters for the Knights of Malta. Our hotel, the 1920s-era Le Meridien Phoenicia (www.lemeridien.com), was located just outside the walls, a short walk from the Barracca Gardens.

Reminders of the knights were everywhere as we explored the cobblestone streets of Valletta. St. John’s Cathedral brims with artwork and treasures, and just down the street stands the Palace of the Grand Masters, where we slowly climbed the 2-inch steps worn smooth by thousands of feet. Why were the steps so tightly constructed? So the knights could ascend in full armor, of course.

Leaving behind the busy business scene in Valletta, we set out to explore the villages and countryside of Malta. History and hedonism combine in the town of St. Julian’s, home of some of the island’s top hotels and the most sophisticated dining scene, which includes the often-lauded San Giuliano, serving fresh seafood accompanied by local Marsovin wine. Late-night action takes place at the Westin Dragonara Resort (www.westinmalta.com), home to Malta’s casino. The resort’s unusual name dates to this site’s days as the home of Dragonara Palace, where sea caves were once rumored to be inhabited by dragons.

Though there was more to see on Malta, we also wanted to spend a few days on the smaller island of Gozo, a short ferry ride away. We weren’t the first travelers drawn to this craggy isle — legend has it that Odysseus was lured here to Calypso’s Cave. While the cave itself isn’t all that alluring, the rest of the island certainly is. Dramatic cliffs, quaint fishing villages, baroque churches, excellent scuba diving and a small-town atmosphere make it easy to like this island of just 26,000 residents. Despite its small size, the island is home to several five-star hotels, including the luxurious Kempinski San Lawrenz Resort & Spa (www.kempinski-gozo.com) on the island’s west side. Gozo is also home to what is believed to be the world’s oldest freestanding monuments (yes, older than the pyramids). The two temples at Ggantija date to about 3600 B.C.

But it was at our last stop in Gozo’s capital, Victoria, that we found out just how much the residents of Malta value their history. We heard several locals call the town “Rabat.” After asking our guide, we learned that Victoria was a “recent change.” And just when did the`name change take place? 1897.