Los Angeles is intimidating. Made up of some 88 incorporated cities and more than 140 unincorporated communities, its vast expanse may confuse many visitors — even frequent ones. You can watch the mayor touting L.A.’s brand-new mass-transit system on prime-time television commercials, but the only way to really get to know the city is to get behind the wheel of a car and hit the streets.

Los Angeles is driven by driving. It’s vibrant — thriving and diverse. The automobile serves to enhance the feeling of freedom that pervades the city. (It’s not unusual to see a local resident drive half a block to pick up dry cleaning.) Roll along Sunset Boulevard from Malibu to Hollywood. Stop in at Will Rogers State Historic Park to take in a polo match or enjoy a picnic lunch. As you near the always-congested 405 Freeway, you’ll pass the renowned Hotel Bel-Air and the Getty Museum. You’ll pass UCLA in Westwood, and Beverly Hills mansions. Get ready to be dazzled by the billboard-lined “Strip” en route to Grauman’s Chinese Theatre. Another day, hop on Route 66 at Santa Monica Pier and cruise up the Pacific Coast Highway in a rented convertible. In southern California, even a cloudy day is a good day.

When you compare cities in southern California, there is no question that Los Angeles is the most cosmopolitan and most diverse, and offers the most opportunities for business travelers. The aerospace industry was born here. “California style” is hailed by the world’s top fashion magazines. The movie industry is an integral part of the culture. Los Angeles is the only place where theatergoers stay seated right through the ending credits because they might know someone in the film.

If you want to talk politics, be prepared to lean left. “Live-action” political characters include “Governator” Arnold Schwarzenegger, the man whom Californians loved to love, but now love to hate. And you can’t miss Los Angeles’ always-camera-ready mayor-elect, Antonio Villaraigosa.

When you ask residents or transplants why they love Los Angeles, they’ll tell you it’s all about the weather — most of the time. You may recall the ’70s hit song “It Never Rains in Southern California.” Last winter it not only rained, it poured for days, leading to coastal flooding and mudslides that destroyed homes and lives. Driving home to Malibu, residents endured hours on the Pacific Coast Highway — the only road in or out. Expansive ocean views were marred for months by sandbags, makeshift flood pumps and barriers. But the rains subsided and the great weather returned, and Los Angeles residents are looking forward to another — drier, they hope — winter season.

There are so many areas in Los Angeles worth mentioning, it would take a book to name them all. That said, here a few don’t-miss destinations.

DOWNTOWN

Downtown Los Angeles is often the only place conventioneers see. While it has a lot to offer, it’s just a fraction of the city. These days, the downtown is experiencing a comeback as young professionals who work in the area buy and move into condos and renovated factory lofts. Architectural landmarks including Disney Hall and the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels are new to the neighborhood. City Hall (made famous as the setting for the Daily Planet building in Superman) has been polished up, and trendy hotels like the Standard and Hilton Checkers have made the scene.

WEST HOLLYWOOD

Home to the city’s gay community, West Hollywood and its lively bars, hotels and restaurants are great fun. Santa Monica Boulevard, from Doheny to Fairfax, is lined with shops, nightclubs and coffeehouses — great for a meandering weekend stroll. Pick up a newspaper and grab a seat at any one of the dozens of eateries. “WeHo,” as it’s called, is about doing your own thing.

West Hollywood is also the home of the Pacific Design Center, aka the “Blue Whale” due to its Cesar Pelli–designed blue glass façade (8687 Melrose Ave.). The beautiful structu re is home to myriad cafes and hot spots.

BEVERLY HILLS, BEL AIR AND BRENTWOOD

Beverly Hills residents may gasp to find these three destinations grouped together. But it’s all about Sunset Boulevard, the street that connects Beverly Hills, Bel Air and Brentwood and serves as a link to West Hollywood to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Exploring this region’s streets and neighborhoods will give you a unique perspective on the area. As you pass the 405 at Sunset, heading west toward Brentwood, you will realize how close all of this is to the airport, Santa Monica and beyond. This is where you’ll find top-notch hotels, restaurants and shops, all easily accessible from almost any point in Los Angeles. Yes, 90210 is a real ZIP code. Glance around at dinner or while strolling Rodeo Drive and you may see some familiar faces from the entertainment industry.

SANTA MONICA

A decade ago, Santa Monica was so populated by homeless people that much of the region’s other residents stayed away — a shame, really, since it’s one of the best parts of Los Angeles. These days, Santa Monica is a leader in caring for the homeless, serving meals twice a day in front of City Hall. Panhandling is forbidden, and the city asks residents and visitors alike to respect that rule.

Santa Monica is a great place. It’s safe to walk — even at night. From the pedestrian-friendly promenade (a little touristy) to the beach and Ocean Avenue, Santa Monica is a great base for your Los Angeles business trip. The 10 Freeway begins here and — barring traffic delays — you can get to Beverly Hills in 15 minutes. Don’t hesitate to venture out onto the Santa Monica Pier, either. The rides may be a little cheesy, but the place is a blast and there’s a great Mexican joint at the end.

LODGING

THE ROOSEVELT HOTEL

This Hollywood property has been recently revamped and is a favorite among “it” girls like Lindsay Lohan, Nicole Ritchie and Paris Hilton. It doesn’t matter which room you stay in — you’ll likely be spending your time at the pool ogling the beautiful L.A. bodies, or imbibing overpriced drinks at the Dodd Mitchell–designed bar. $$$
THE ROOSEVELT HOTEL
7000 Hollywood Blvd.
tel 323 466 7000
http://www.hollywoodroosevelt.com

CHATEAU MARMONT
Many locals will tell you the Mondrian reigns supreme on the Sunset Strip, but those in the know stay at Chateau Marmont. Each of its old-school bungalows and rooms has a story to tell. There’s no better way to spend your downtime than lying by the very private pool — the best spot is without a doubt the corner chaise by the Gucci billboard. Hit the hotel restaurant for the steak and French fries (but brace yourself for the infamously slow service). $$$$
CHATEAU MARMONT
8221 Sunset Blvd.
tel 323 656 1010, fax 323 655 5311
http://www.chateaumarmont.com

CASA DEL MAR

If you’re looking to escape the city, your best bet is Casa Del Mar in Santa Monica. The beds are unbeatable, and the spa is one of the finest around. The ocean suites are the nicest rooms in the house, but expect to pay four figures per night for that view. The lobby bar also has a decent jazz singer in the evening. $$$$
CASA DEL MAR
1910 Ocean Way
tel 310 581 5533, fax 310 581 5503
http://www.hotelcasadelmar.com

FARMER’S DAUGHTER

“Kitschy” is the only adjective to describe the Farmer’s Daughter hotel in the Fairfax district of L.A. The once run-down motor lodge is now a one-of-a-kind spot. The 66 guestrooms are divided into “his” and “hers” themes — you can guess which ones have the rooster wallpaper. Be prepared for hopeful The Price Is Right guests as your neighbors: Farmer’s Daughter is across the street from the CBS studio where the game show is filmed. $$$
FARMER’S DAUGHTER
115 S. Fairfax Ave.
tel 323 937 3930
http://www.farmersdaughterhotel.com

THE STANDARD DOWNTOWN
Formerly the Superior Oil Building, the Standard is a microcosm of the downtown resurgence — taking the old and making it new. The rooftop bar scene is the place to be. $$$$
THE STANDARD DOWNTOWN
550 S. Flower St.
tel 213 892 8080, fax 213 892 8686
http://www.standardhotel.com

HOTEL BEL-AIR

You enter another world at this great hideaway off Sunset Boulevard, a top hotel that can easily work for business or for pleasure. The staff at the Bel-Air is outstanding, looking after your every need. The general manager, Carlos Lopes, likes the personal touch that the hotel has with guests and is proud his hotel is not a “cookie cutter” property. Rooms are wonderful, and each has its own color scheme and fabric; all have the Bel-Air bed, which is to die for. The only negatives are the lack of high-speed wireless Internet and no in-room coffeemakers. $$$$
HOTEL BEL-AIR
701 Stone Canyon Road
tel 310 472 1211
http://www.hotelbelair.com

SHERATON GATEWAY HOTEL LOS ANGELES AIRPORT AND SHERATON DELFINA SANTA MONICA HOTEL

These are twin properties branded as Sheratons but owned and operated by the KOR Hotel Group, which also owns the trendy Viceroy Hotel in Santa Monica. The Sheraton Gateway is not your father’s airport hotel. Far from dowdy, and more like trendy, it offers all the amenities that a business traveler needs — with some extra zip. The lobby and the lobby bar have been renovated and new restaurants have been added. The Brasserie and Shula’s 347 are destinations in themselves at LAX. The jazzy pool area with trendy cabanas and chaises is a place where, general manager Michael Miner boasts, “people actually swim.” Once a popular Holiday Inn Express, the new Sheraton Delfina has been through a major face-lift. It’s got a wonderful, inviting pool area and a private club for guests on certain floors. Members use a little lounge just off the pool for breakfast and, in the evening, for drinks and snacks. $$$
SHERATON GATEWAY HOTEL LOS ANGELES AIRPORT
6101 West Century Blvd.
tel 310 642 1111, fax 310 642 4048
http://www.sheratonlosangeles.com
SHERATON DELFINA SANTA MONICA HOTEL
530 West Pico Blvd.
Santa Monica
tel 310 399 9344, fax 310 399 2504
http://www.sheratonsantamonica.com

THE BEVERLY HILTON
Merv Griffin is gone and Hilton Hotels has taken back ownership of this property, giving it a muchneeded makeover. $$$$
THE BEVERLY HILTON
9876 Wilshire Blvd.
tel 310 274 7777
http://www.beverlyhilton.com

VICEROY SANTA MONICA
You might pass by the Viceroy, but look closely: Once a broken-down, no-name hotel, it is now so cool that it needs little identification on the outside. The bar scene in the pool area is one of the hippest in L.A. Rooms are cool, too, with great amenities and location. $$$$
VICEROY SANTA MONICA
1819 Ocean Ave.
tel 310 260 7500, fax 310 260 7515
http://www.korhotelgroup.com/hotels/viceroysantamonica

LE MERIGOT

This JW Marriot property doesn’t really have a view — a nearby building blocks most of it — and its bar is too small, but what it lacks in scenery and space, it makes up for in service and great rooms. $$$$
LE MERIGOT
1740 Ocean Ave.
tel 310 395 9700, fax 310 395 9200
http://www.lemerigothotel.com

PARK HYATT LOS ANGELES
The place to stay in Century City, the Park Hyatt has a great lobby, friendly staff and wonderful rooms. If it’s in the cards, book a suite; many of these have patios looking out toward the Hollywood Hills. $$$$
PARK HYATT LOS ANGELES
2151 Avenue of the Stars
tel 310 277 1234, fax 310 785 9240
http://www.parklosangeles.hyatt.com

RAFFLES L’ERMITAGE
This sleepy, upscale property on Burton Way in Beverly Hills has more staff than you can shake a stick at. There are lots of extras at this property, including free nonalcoholic beverages, free Wi-Fi and a multitude of newspapers. $$$$
RAFFLES L’ERMITAGE
9291 Burton Way
tel 310 278 3344, fax 310 278 8247
http://www.lermitagehotel.com

DINING

CAFE D’ETOILE

This is a great place in West Hollywood that caters to the local gay clientele. At dinner there with a client friend and my wife, we had a great meal, fun service and a moderate bill. $$$
CAFE DfETOILE
894111.2 Santa Monica Blvd.
tel 310 820 3163

BUFFALO CLUB

If you don’t already know about the Buffalo Club, then you’ll never find it – seeing as it’s located in a quiet part of Santa Monica, on a industrial-looking street, with no sign. With lots of wood and an open-ceiling, candlelit dining area, the dark bar is a little noisy; but the secret to the Buffalo is the outdoor patio, where the mood changes from “too cool for me” to “relax and enjoy.” The steak-house fare is great and the patio has nightly music from DJs or live bands. You’re sure to see a celebrity or two (if you care). Make sure you try the New York strip steak. $$$$
BUFFALO CLUB
1520 Olympic Blvd.
Santa Monica
tel 310 450 8600

CRUSTACEAN
Highly sought after when it opened several years ago, this place still fills up, and a table here can be a hot commodity. As you enter for the first time, you realize you are standing on a long, illuminated aquarium, built into the floor, that snakes its way through the restaurant. Guests enjoy walking over it and watching the koi swim by as they wait for their seat. The food is Vietnamese-inspired seafood and the clientele includes locals, jetsetters and tourists. (And celebs, too: Crustacean is said to be a favorite haunt of Will Smith’s.) $$$
CRUSTACEAN
9646 Little Santa Monica Blvd.
tel 310 205 8990
http://www.anfamily.com

YU RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE
Yu is a welcome addition to the hidden, trendy Santa Monica neighborhood north of Wilshire. Pan-Asian flair and a seductive decor await you for lunch or dinner. A large, candlelit Buddha, symbol of joy and serenity, welcomes you, along with some of the most attractive staff in L.A. Appetizers are served in small bites, to be shared by all at your table. Chef Andrew De Groot (most recently of Casa Del Mar, also in Santa Monica) has filled the menu with 50 exceptionally prepared dishes, and that’s not counting dessert. $$$
YU RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE
1323 Montana Ave.
Santa Monica
tel 310 395 4727
http://www.yurestaurants.com

THE RESTAURANT AT THE HOTEL BEL-AIR
The outdoor patio of this hotel restaurant (said to be one of the most romantic spots in L.A.) is perfect for a special dinner. The indoor section has been recently renovated, and a separate kitchen there is now dedicated to the restaurant. Lunch is also an event at the Bel-Air, where California cuisine is king. Nancy Regan eats here several times a month, and you are likely to spot Tom Cruise and Oprah (who celebrated her 40th here) as well. At lunch and dinner, the Perrier Jouët flows like water. $$$$
THE RESTAURANT AT THE HOTEL BEL-AIR
701 Stone Canyon Road
tel 310 472 1211
http://www.hotelbelair.com

ASIA DE CUBA

One of the best views in the city can be found at Asia De Cuba in the Mondrian Hotel. Request a table outside. Euro-South American-Asian dishes are served family style and are delicious. The people-watching here almost beats the food. Take a cab if you can – valet parking is $18. $$$$
ASIA DE CUBA
Mondrian Hotel
8440 Sunset Blvd.
tel 323 848 6000
http://www.mondrianhotel.com

KYOTO
Located in the Wilshire Grand Los Angeles, this downtown spot is a perfect place for the traveler on the go or between appointments. The lunch is a Japanese-style buffet, which includes a great selection of sushi and sashimi. $$
KYOTO
Wilshire Grand Los Angeles
930 Wilshire Blvd.
tel 213 896 3812
http://www.wilshiregrand.com

SHULA’S 347
An outpost of the Don Shula chain located in the Sheraton Gateway at LAX, this represents the recent trend of upgrading the restaurants on the Century Boulevard “Strip.” The restaurant serves killer steaks and seafood in an upscale Morton’s-type atmosphere, and the staff is eager to please. If money is no object, allow the chef to create for you a tasting meal, ranging from a huge seafood appetizer of crab, oysters and shrimp to filet and steaks. $$$$
SHULA’S 347
Sheraton Gateway Hotel Los Angeles
6101 W. Century Blvd.
tel 310 642 1111
http://www.sheratonlax.com

BOÉ
Though it might be too much of a scene for some, Boé in the Crescent hotel in Beverly Hills is a great outdoor restaurant with a sexy feel. This place can get a little rowdy on Thursday nights, when the DJ sets up for the 20-to-30-something crowd. Food is continental style, and they serve a mean pizza margarita and steaks. A great breakfast spot. $$$
BOÉ
The Crescent
403 N. Crescent Drive
tel 310 247 0505, fax 310 247 9053
http://www.crescentbh

ONE PICO

There’s nothing like the Santa Monica hotel Shutters on the Beach, but no matter where you’re spending the night, a trip to One Pico is advisable. Wraparound windows offer a view of the beach for brunch or lunch. Enjoy a secluded dining experience, provided by a friendly staff. Chef Fermin Arias offers an “American dining experience” — and for this, be prepared to bring your cash. $$$$
ONE PICO
Shutters on the Beach
1 Pico Blvd.
Santa Monica
tel 310 587 1717
http://www.shuttersonthebeach.com

CAPO
If you want to part with your money, this is the place. You’ll be sure to spot a celebrity; Calista Flockhart, for instance, frequents Capo. Service is good, and the wine and champagne will keep your dinner guests pleased for the evening. The cuisine is Italian. $$$$
CAPO
1810 Ocean Ave.
tel 310 394 5550

JOE’S ABBOT KINNEY
Steak and other hearty eats are on the menu at this legendary restaurant on Abbot Kinney Boulevard, and there’s also a great wine list. The place is always bustling (though the air conditioning was on-again, off-again when we visited) and they serve a mean lamb chop. Abbot Kinney is filled with good restaurants and bars worth trying, and it’s close to Santa Monica, which makes for a good meeting place, relatively accessible to all areas. $$$$
JOE’S ABBOT KINNEY
1023 Abbott Kinney Blvd.
tel 310 399 5811
http://www.joesrestaurant.com

SUSHI SASABUNE
L.A. is known for its sushi, and Sushi Sasabune in West Los Angeles has some of the freshest in the city. Don’t bother to get dressed up, because there is little-to-no decor here. And don’t bother to ask for a menu — you are at the mercy of the talented sushi chefs. But you won’t be disappointed. $$$
SUSHI SASABUNE
11300 Nebraska Ave.
tel 310 268 8380

GEISHA HOUSE

If you only have one night in L.A. — and want some real L.A. atmosphere — head to Ashton Kutcher’s latest venture, Geisha House, in Hollywood. Red lacquer and mirrors surround you — along with a lot of folks who act like they’re someone, and those who may really be someone. Most don’t come here for the food, but the Japanese-inspired dishes aren’t bad. $$$
GEISHA HOUSE
6633 Hollywood Blvd.
tel 323 460 6300

APPLE PAN

The Apple Pan on L.A.’s West Side is a staple for egg salad sandwiches, burgers and, of course, those famous apple pies. There is a wait at nearly any time of day and the service is not exactly friendly, but you can’t beat this place for a delicious, cheap lunch, just down the street from a city golf course and Fox Studios. $
APPLE PAN
10801 W. Pico Blvd.
tel 310 475 3585

COBRAS AND MATADORS

Tapas restaurants seem to be springing up all over the city, and Cobras and Matadors is a favorite of many aficionados of this cuisine. Reservations are not accepted, so come early to avoid a wait. The restaurant does not serve alcohol, but there is a beer and wine store next door and you can charge your purchases on your dinner tab. If you are looking to hear what your dinner companion is saying — or if you prefer a spacious table — dine elsewhere. But for scrumptious small places, this is a top spot. $$
COBRAS AND MATADORS
7615 W. Beverly Blvd.
tel 323 932 6178

BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

Chez Jay Restaurant (1657 Ocean Ave., tel 310 395 1741, http://www.chezjays.com) is a local watering hole almost directly across the street from the Loews Hotel. The place serves a pretty good meal, too. Great for a few laughs and a few beers; go ahead, throw the peanut shells on the floor. Shane (2424 Main St., tel 310 396 4122) in Santa Monica is a neighborhood spot that is gaining an out-of-area following. Lots of beautiful people, but a laid-back vibe. The smoking patio under the retractable ceiling is a big hit. DJs spin most nights of the week. St. Nick’s (8450 W. Third St, tel 323 655 6917) is a secret that even most Angelinos don’t know about. It’s at La Cienega and Third Street and is usually packed with scenesters who don’t want to be seen. Cool jukeboxes and cheap drinks. No valet, so parking is a pain. Maestros is a gem in Beverly Hills. You’ll usually spot a celebrity, or at least get a good laugh when you catch a glimpse of the latest May-December couple to hit Hollywood. Maestros screams “old school” with its red leather booths, strong martinis and 80-year-old piano player upstairs. What could be more fun than finally getting to go to a “grownup” bar? The Well (6255 W. Sunset Blvd., tel 323 467 9355) is the darkest bar — lighting, it seems, is not cool. It’s never overly crowded, but never empty (even on a Monday). Great drinks, comfy booths where you can usually find a place to sit, and tons of street parking (this is rare). Very cool, New York vibe. No attitude. A.O.C. (8022 W. Third St., tel 323 653 6359) serves the best wines and champagnes by the glass. The bar is relatively small, as this is mainly a restaurant. Great Third Street location, so you can grab a drink on your way to dinner — but once you’re here, you’ll likely want to stay and try the fabulous small plates. Sophisticated, yet casual. Avalon Hotel, Beverly Hills (9400 W. Olympic Blvd., tel 310 277 5221, http://www.avalonbeverlyhills.com) features an indoor/outdoor bar with an excellent bar and dinner menu. You can reserve the cabanas by the pool for private parties. Has a retro feel to it, and a good mix of tourists, locals and those trying to act like locals. Really friendly servers — and free valet parking in Beverly Hills.

SIDE TRIPS

For incredible views of the city, head to Getty at Sunset and the 405, where you’ll find a wonderful restaurant and a great (free) museum. But you have to make a reservation to park your car. Grove and Farmers Market in the Fairfax district is a shopping and theater mecca. Century City will be a cool place to visit once the Towers and the Westfield Mall on Sunset Boulevard are finished.

Take the train from downtown Los Angeles to Long Beach, a jewel by the sea, or to Pasadena, where, depending upon the time of year, you may be able to volunteer to work on floats for the Rose Bowl Parade. Take Amtrak to San Diego, connect to the Tijuana Trolley, cross a bridge and you’re in Mexico.

Krystina Price and Cynthia Schnabel contributed to this report.