As i stood on the ancient ramparts of Kadifekale Fortress, Izmir blew me away — metaphorically and almost literally. The city was spread beneath me, curving around the shores of the Gulf of Izmir, hemmed in by rugged mountains.

From this high vantage point I was able to identify some of the city’s landmarks: Konak Square, with its attractive Ottoman clock tower and picturesque mosque. The old covered caravanserai, surrounded by the cluttered alleys of the bazaar. The Agora, where continuing archaeological excavations have unearthed ancient ruins that bear testament to at least 5,000 years of human habitation.

These were places I had visited in the still of the morning. Now the customary afternoon wind, the imbat, was gusting in off the Aegean Sea, taking the edge off the heat. The buffeting air threatened to push me off my feet. Bracing against it, I continued to absorb the panorama, imagining how it would have looked to Alexander the Great when he established the original fortress on this spot in 334 B.C.

Throughout its history, Izmir has benefited and suffered — in roughly equal measures — from its strategic position between Asia and Europe. The city has long been a staging post for trade and conquest; an exhilarating, turbulent melting pot of nationalities and religions. The fusion of East and West is also manifest beneath the surface, where the continental tectonic plates grind against each other, periodically unleashing earthquakes that rattle the city’s foundations.

Surviving the jolts of history and geology, Izmir today is Turkey’s thirdlargest city, with a population of 3 million. Curiously, it doesn’t feel that big, or typically Turkish.

The pulse of the city is most easily appreciated on the Kordonboyu, the long promenade that stretches along the waterfront. Horse-drawn carriages ply some of its length, clattering over the cobbles of the old wharf, now separated from the sea by a broad width of reclaimed land that, at the northern end, has been turned into a park.

I wander here at dusk. Groups of young people lie sprawled on the grass listening to music. On the path beside the seawall, against which occasional waves send up huge plumes of spray, I meander between joggers, cyclists, evening strollers and dog-walkers.

Ferries shuttle back and forth across the gulf, linking downtown Izmir with Karşikaya, a district of the city that sits apart both physically and in spirit. Locals there refer to themselves as “35.5” – the official postal code (and license plate number) for greater Izmir is 35.

With lights now twinkling around the bay, I gravitate towards the fashionable Konak Pier, designed in the 19th century by Gustave Eiffel. Back then, the city was called Smyrna and was one of the most important trading hubs of the Mediterranean. The population was a polyglottal mix of Turks, Greeks, Armenians, Jews and Levantines (merchant families of European and American descent).

The Levantines built lavish mansions in the surrounding suburbs, most notably in Bornova, where some still stand in lush gardens behind high walls. But much of old Smyrna went up in smoke in 1922, when three years of Greek occupation ended with a catastrophic fire that gutted the heart of the old city. Modern Izmir rose from the ashes.

The influence of the cosmopolitan past has endured. For today’s visitor the city offers a beguiling mix of the exotic and the familiar. The bazaar immerses you in the kind of handto- hand commerce that has existed here for centuries. Turkish music swirls in the air, the scents of spices and roasting kebabs envelope you, crowds shuffle past, and the simplest purchase becomes an elaborate pantomime of offer and counter-offer.

Yet just a block or two away, you can take your place in one of stateof- the-art convention or exhibition centers and gain a sense of Izmir’s increasingly important place on the world stage.

This region has always been a meeting place. Peel away the layers of this city and you’ll find its complex ancestry written in stone. The Ottomans, Byzantines, Romans and Greeks have all left their mark. An hour’s drive south of Izmir, the tangled strands of history are vividly preserved in the astounding ruins of Ephesus.

Also known as Efes, this ancient city was founded in 3,000 B.C. In biblical times it was one of the Seven Churches of Asia identified in the Book of Revelation (Smyrna was another). The ruins stand amid beautiful, verdant hills.

I trod the age-worn flagstones of the main street, passing between the stumps of old columns and underneath reconstructed arches. The street led to the breathtaking façade of the Library of Celsus and then branched right to the incredible Grand Theatre, with a capacity for 24,000 spectators.

Ephesus is a ghost of a city, populated now by an endless succession of tour groups from Turkey’s Aegean beach resorts. Yet on my return to Izmir, I find myself viewing the modern city anew, for it is merely the latest manifestation of thousands of years of civilization on Turkey’s western coast.

The strategic location that has been so crucial historically remains an important factor in the city’s place in the world. Since 1952 Izmir has been the regional headquarters of NATO and is a vital keystone for security in the Middle East.

Alexander the Great understood that when he stood on the battlements of Kadifekale — also known as the Velvet Fortress — atop Mount Pagos. The Mediterranean stretched before him; the entire hinterland of Asia lay behind.

This evening I can hear the muezzins calling the faithful to prayer from dozens of mosques down in the city. The sound ebbs and flows on the gusting wind, mingling with the usual cacophonies of city life. With each gust, I am blown from Europe to Asia, and back again.

LODGING

SWISOTEL GRAND EFES

Formerly the Grand Efes, this landmark ocean-facing hotel situated on Cumhuriyet Square in the very heart of downtown reopened in May after a $120-million refurbishment. The décor is the epitome of minimalist chic. The 402 guestrooms are kitted out with the very latest technology, and the bathrooms feature luxurious rain showers. A huge new conference center will open shortly as part of the hotel complex, and an Amrita Spa & Wellness Center debuts by the end of the year. A limousine service is available from and to the airport.$$$$
SWISOTEL GRAND EFES
Gaziosmanpasa Bulvan 1, 35210 Alsancak
tel 90 232 4839761
http://www.izmir.swissotel.com

EGE PALAS HOTEL

While not the tallest downtown hotel — that honor goes to the Hilton — this 21-story property nonetheless provides an imposing presence at the northern end of the waterfront, boasting views to match. The 116 guestrooms are unremarkable but perfectly comfortable, and offer all the customary conveniences, including wireless Internet access. The Roof Bar and the Panorama Restaurant on the top floor make the most of the city vistas on every side. The waterfront promenade, just a block away, provides the route for a 10-minute walk to the heart of downtown.$$$
EGE PALAS HOTEL
Cumhuriyet Bulvari 210, 35220 Alsancak
tel 90 232 4639090
http://www.egepalas.com.tr

KORDON OTEL

This modern, intimate hotel packs a lot into its prime location right on the waterfront. With just 60 guestrooms, all with sea views (though only the suites have balconies), this is the perfect place from which to watch the comings and goings of Izmir life. Facilities include an excellent seafood restaurant, a rooftop bar, a fitness center looking out on the Gulf of Izmir, and a steam room. As with any hotel in Izmir, non-smokers should opt for the non-smoking floor.$$$
KORDON OTEL
Akdeniz Caddesi 2, Pasaport
tel 90 232 4250445
http://www.kordonotel.com.tr

DINING

MANZARA RESTAURANT

A minor drawback? The restaurant is located in the Crowne Plaza Hotel, which sits on the shore a 15-minute taxi ride south of downtown. On the plus side, Manzara’s command of the 19th floor provides a wonderful panorama of the full sweep of the Gulf of Izmir. The cuisine is international with local elements. For starters, the mezze s election is recommended. The fish main courses are very tempting, though during my dinner here I opted for duck in sweet and sour sauce and wasn’t disappointed. Portions are very generous, and as a result I have no first-hand experience of the desserts — though they looked great.$$$
MANZARA RESTAURANT
Inciralti Caddesi 67, 35340 Balcova
tel 90 232 2921300
http://www.cpizmir.com

ALTIN KAPI

Outside Turkey, kebabs are hardly a byword for sophisticated dining. Within Turkey, they are good, honest food without pretense, and the quality is immeasurably better than you’d find in ubiquitous kebab shops in Western European cities. Altin Kapi, with six outlets dotted around the city, is one of the best places to sample bona fide kebabs, served on a plate and usually smothered in sauce and butter. Sit at a sidewalk table and enjoy the sights and sounds of Izmir while you eat.$$
ALTIN KAPI
144 Sok, 14/A Alsancak
http://www.altinkapi.com

EGE’NIN SOFRASI
The village of Sirince, close to the magnificent ruins of Ephesus an hour’s drive south of Izmir, is one of the most picturesque spots in this corner of Turkey, set on an olive-studded hillside. Most people come for the views, but those in the know are also here for the award-winning local cuisine served up by Ibrahim Yaman. The menu is as authentic as the setting. $$
EGE’NIN SOFRASI
Sirence Koyu Selcuk
tel 90 232 8983028

DIVERSIONS

In a city surrounded by hills, there are plenty of options if you want to take in the full vista. At Kadifekale Fortress you get the view, history (the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans have all added to this great stone edifice) and shopping — it’s a great place to buy local handicrafts. There’s a café just outside the main entrance where you can take refreshment while enjoying the sights. There is also a great view from the top of the Asansor, an elevator built in 1907 by Nesim Levi Bayrakoglu to bypass the 155-step climb from the waterfront to the cliff-top Halinfat Pasa Street. Lower access is from the charming Dario Moreno Street, formerly a Jewish area. The historic Bet Israel Synagogue is just round the corner.

The city boasts some important archaeological sites, most notably Tepekule, north of downtown, where ancient Smyrna was established 5,000 years ago; and the Agora, a fascinating complex of Roman columns and underg the center of the city. Konak Square, effectively the epicenter of modern Izmir, is a good place to begin a walk — or jog or bike ride — along the waterfront.

The star attraction outside of town is the ruined ancient city of Ephesus, an easy day-trip 50 miles to the south. High on a hill close to Ephesus is the House of the Virgin Mary, a small chapel built on the foundations of the reputed home of the mother of Jesus. It is well established as an important place of Christian pilgrimage and was visited by Pope Benedict XVI in 2006.

Further details about these and other attractions are available from the Web site of the newly established Izmir Convention & Visitors Bureau(http://www.izmircvb.org).

INFO TO GO

Domestic and international flights arrive at Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB), 11 miles south of the city. There are no direct flights from the United States, but there are good connections via Istanbul or Munich. A taxi to the downtown hotels costs $30–$40. U.S. passport holders require a visa for entry into Turkey. It is obtained on arrival (from a booth before you reach passport control) and costs $20.