Where does Seoul end and Incheon begin? On the busy expressway between the two neighboring cities, the precise spot is marked by a small sign in English and Korean, white letters on a green background: Incheon. Only the most observant travelers will be aware they have crossed the boundary. For most, the two cities merge into one.

My air ticket to South Korea compounds the confusion. The destination is given as Seoul, but the airport code is ICN — Incheon International Airport. “Welcome to Seoul,” announces the chief flight attendant when we touch down. I look through the window at the hazy skyline of Incheon.

In part, this is a consequence of South Korea’s rapid urbanization. Over the past 50 years, Seoul, the capital, burst beyond the mountains that formerly contained it and spread out into the surrounding landscape, devouring farmland and absorbing any communities that lay in the way. The Seoul Capital Area now covers 12 percent of South Korea’s total land area, embraces the cities of Suwon and Incheon and has a total population of 25 million.

But it is also possible to argue the dominant influence flowed in the opposite direction and that, in fact, Incheon defined modern Seoul. It was here, in this port facing the Yellow Sea, Korea cautiously relinquished its reputation as the “Hermit Kingdom” and opened itself to the outside world in the late 19th century. It was here, on the shores of Incheon, that Gen. MacArthur launched an audacious invasion that turned the tide of the Korean War in 1950, leading to the liberation of Seoul. And it is here, on reclaimed land, that a bright new future is being built.

Incheon’s great leap forward began in the 1990s, when construction of a state-of-the-art airport began on new land linking two offshore islands. Incheon International Airport opened to passengers in 2001 and soon established itself as one of the busiest airports in the world (as well as one of the most popular; Global Traveler readers voted it Best Airport in the World eight consecutive years).

The initial infrastructure projects associated with the airport seemed intent on bypassing Incheon entirely. The main expressway to Seoul skirts to the north of the city, while the Airport Railroad Express was constructed to whisk travelers non-stop from the airport to downtown Seoul in just 43 minutes.

Sunset over the Incheon Bridge © KTO NY

Everything changed with the construction of the 13-mile-long Incheon Bridge, which opened in 2009. This privately operated toll bridge provides a direct link between Incheon and the island airport, reducing travel time from well over an hour to just 20 minutes.

The bridge makes mainland landfall at Songdo International Business District, a rising development that, even by South Korean standards, is breathtakingly ambitious. Just a decade ago, this stretch of coastline to the south of the center of Incheon was a bleak expanse of tidal mudflats. Not only did the developers have the imagination to envisage the world’s most expensive real estate project in this unpromising setting, they also set themselves a seemingly crazy timetable. The $40 billion scheme would be done within just 15 years.

The first task was to create 1,500 acres of new land, equivalent to the footprint of downtown Boston. More than 19 million cubic yards of soil were trucked in, supplemented by huge volumes of dirt dredged up from the seabed. The environmental cost was as great as the financial one, involving the loss of an important habitat for migratory birds.

With the addition to the mainland complete, construction of the first of more than 400 new buildings began. Each building is effectively anchored on stilts, with deep foundations driven through the reclaimed land into the solid bedrock below. This secure platform provided the stability for a forest of brand-new skyscrapers, including the 68-floor Northeast Asia Trade Tower, currently South Korea’s tallest building.

With Songdo still under development, we arrive expecting a building site. Incredibly, we find what appears on first impression to be a functioning business district. Only the empty sidewalks and quiet roads betray the fact there is still plenty of vacant space within the completed high-rises. The pace of development has been so rapid that the population hasn’t yet caught up.

Songdo © KTO NY

It will only be a matter of time. Taking a stroll across Central Park, a recreational area of leafy paths meandering around a picturesque saltwater lake at the very heart of the district, we can appreciate the lifestyle benefits Songdo offers. Everything is within walking distance; car parking is hidden beneath the abundant green spaces; and most of the buildings are mixed-use, integrating commercial and residential zones.

In contrast to frenetic Seoul, which expanded haphazardly and is struggling under the weight of its burgeoning population, Songdo is a purpose-built 21st-century metropolis that aims to be efficient and sustainable. The latest technology is woven into the infrastructure, including a high-tech garbage disposal system that transports trash to the collection center through subterranean pneumatic tubes.

From the start, Songdo had set its sights high, intending to become nothing less than a “Global Business Utopia.” Geared toward cutting-edge industries such as IT, biotechnology and nanotechnology, the district has already attracted businesses such as Samsung, Cisco and IBM.

A new eco-friendly city will be built on Yeongjong Island close to Incheon International Airport by 2020, and there are also proposals for a megaproject comparable to Songdo at a site immediately north of the historic center of Incheon. Cheongna International City will be a residential, educational and leisure hub that will be home to 90,000 people of all nationalities. The centerpiece of Cheongna will be Tower Infinity (aka Cheongna City Tower), the world’s first “invisible skyscraper.” LED screens in the 1,476-foot building’s façade will show live images of the surrounding sky and landscape, effectively blending the tower into the background.

Incheon’s futuristic, cosmopolitan outlook is entirely in keeping with its past. It was from this city, after all, Korea first reached out to the world in the 1880s. In 2003 the city became a Free Economic Zone; and in 2007 it declared itself an “English City,” intending to increase the everyday use of the English language in order to compete with Asian cities such as Singapore and Hong Kong.

Incheon International Airport © KTO NY

Meanwhile, Incheon Port continues to expand, securing its position as one of the world’s busiest trading hubs, and flights to and from all corners of the globe fly in and out of Incheon International Airport. This is a city determinedly emerging from Seoul’s shadow. Perhaps it is time to ask a new question: Where does Incheon end and the world begin?

Things to Do in Incheon

If you’re interested in military history, Incheon needs no introduction. Some American landing sites were lost to land reclamation, while the small memorial marking the important site known as Green Beach is incongruously located on the seafront promenade of Wolmido Cultural Street. Much more interesting is the Memorial Hall for Incheon Landing Operation, excavated into a hillside, where you’ll find an impressive granite monument, an excellent museum and a collection of military vehicles and weapons. The Battle of Inchon is also commemorated at Jayu (Freedom) Park with a statue of Gen. MacArthur and a monument marking the centenary of U.S.-Korean relations.

At the foot of Jayu Park, entered through ceremonial gates, is Chinatown, the city’s best-preserved historic district. In contrast to the pristine order of the city’s newest districts, Chinatown is a maze of narrow, winding streets threaded through with formidable flights of stone steps. Enticing aromas drift from the local restaurants.

Wolmido district © KTO NY

Wolmido district, adjacent to Chinatown, was formerly an island, though the stretch of separating water has been filled in. To get there, follow beneath the eerily silent route of the Wolmi Eunha Rail, a monorail project that was a rare misstep in Incheon’s otherwise impressive evolution. During trials, a wheel came off a train and injured a pedestrian. The safety issues not yet overcome, it is unlikely the elevated track will ever be brought into commission.

Incheon Fish Market, south of Wolmido, is a bustling place full of sights and smells, not far from Yeonan Pier, the gateway to the many Yellow Sea islands off the coast of Incheon. Some are easily accessible for daytrips; others are more of an expedition.

One of the most popular islands is Muui, with a beautifully forested, hilly interior. It is the filming location for several Korean films and TV series. From Muui, walk across to tiny Silmi Island at low tide, but be careful not to be caught when the tide turns.

Rugged Baeknyeong Island, with its impressive coastal rock formations and its population of rare Chinese egrets, is the closest island to North Korea. The voyage from Incheon takes about four hours. When you arrive, you’ll sense the tension of the world’s most dangerous border. It was off this island, in 2010, that North Koreans allegedly torpedoed a South Korean naval vessel.

The one island you can’t avoid visiting is Yeongjong, location of Incheon International Airport. It’s not without attractions in its own right. The white-sand expanse of Eurwangni Beach has long been a popular vacation spot for South Koreans. There are hiking trails to the top of Baekun Mountain, offering great views of planes landing and taking off from the airport. On the slopes of the mountain sits the 1,300-year-old Yonggungsa Temple, a reminder that for all the recent development, Incheon is essentially an ancient place.

CHECKING IN WITH BORA LEE

Manager, Public Relations Team, Incheon International Airport

WHAT IMPACT HAS INCHEON INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT HAD ON THE CITY OF INCHEON?
Incheon Airport is the major gateway of South Korea, serving more than 39 million passengers per year. It contributes to the city of Incheon by improving tourism revenue, enhancing the competitiveness of the logistics industry, creating jobs — there are about 35,000 workers in the airport, and many of them live in the city — and encouraging local businesses to participate in airport construction projects.

The airport has shown steady growth both in the volume of passengers and economic revenue since opening in 2001. The Incheon Free Economic Zone has been designated with the purpose of boosting the region’s economy and playing a role as an economic center of Northeast Asia by maximizing the potential of Incheon Airport. The Incheon International Airport and the Incheon Port are playing a great role for Incheon to gain global recognition.

WHAT DEVELOPMENTS CAN WE EXPECT IN INCHEON IN THE NEXT FEW YEARS?
Incheon Airport started its third-stage construction project last June and will be ready for operation by December 2017. The second terminal is the core of the third-stage construction, which will expand the airport’s annual capacity from 44 million to 62 million passengers, and 4.5 million to 5.8 million metric tons of cargo. The estimated cost is $5 billion.

The airport also has its hinterland development projects, named Air City, to transform the airport area to one of the major tourist destinations in the region. A 78-acre site next to the first terminal is now in the design phase and is expected to open in 2017 with a complex of shopping, casino, entertainment and business facilities.

WHICH ATTRACTIONS IN THE INCHEON AREA WOULD YOU RECOMMEND FOR VISITORS?
Incheon became the first open port of the country to foreign vessels in 1883, and it worked as a window for Korea to adopt the modern culture, having many consulates, trading companies and administration buildings of the era. The relics and vestiges still remain, offering unique cultural experiences to visitors.

Incheon Airport recently launched its new transit tour program. It offers the opportunity to explore major attractions of Incheon for free (excluding fees for entrance, about $3, and lunch, about $10) with a professional guide and a bus ride. The two-hour Temple Tour of Incheon includes Incheon Grand Bridge and city museum, a memorial hall honoring the Battle of Incheon, and a temple. The longer tour, the 3.5-hour Asia in Incheon City Tour, includes Wolmi Park, an amusement park loved by locals, and the port area.

Incheon: Just the Facts

Time Zone: GMT +9
Phone Code: Country code: 82 City code: 32
Entry/Exit Requirements: U.S. citizens must have a valid passport. No visa is required for leisure or business trips of up to 90 days. If you plan on staying longer than 90 days, you must obtain a visa before arrival.
Currency: Won
Official Language: Korean
Key Industries: Aviation services, IT, biotechnology, nanotechnology, construction

Incheon Info to Go

International flights arrive at Incheon International Airport (ICN), approximately nine miles west of Incheon as the crow flies. Access to the city is by bus, ferry or taxi. If you take a taxi across Incheon Bridge, you will have to pay the toll fee of $7 in addition to the taxi fare.

Where to Stay in Incheon

Harbor Park Hotel Harbor Park is conveniently located within walking distance of main Incheon attractions including Chinatown and Wolmido, with views of Incheon Harbor; the nearby station provides easy access to downtown Seoul. 3-5 Fifth St., Hang-dong, Jung-gu $$$

Hyatt Regency Incheon The Hyatt is two minutes from Incheon International Airport yet offers easy access to attractions of mainland Incheon; golf courses are in the vicinity, and sea fishing can be arranged. 208 Yeongjong Haeannamro, Unseo-dong, Jung-gu $$$$

Sheraton Incheon Hotel This unashamedly modern hotel at the heart of the unashamedly modern Songdo IBD faces the 100-acre Central Park recreational area and is next to Songdo Convention Center. 153 Convensia Road, Yeonsu-gu $$$$

Restaurants in Incheon

Fog City International Café Asian food is great, but if you find yourself yearning for a good steak or a pizza, this unpretentious place not far from Jayu Park is a good option. Jungang-dong 1, Ga 19-1, Jung-gu $$

Mandabok Incheon’s Chinatown gave rise to a unique noodle and black bean sauce dish known as jajangmyeon. This famous restaurant is one of the best places to try it. 9-11 Bukseong-dong, Jung-gu $$$

Songdo Duck No prizes for guessing the signature dish of this Korean restaurant, which is located on a main road between Songdo IBD and Chinatown. The eponymous duck is oak-roasted. 819-1 Dongchun-dong, Yeonsu-gu $$$

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