Helsinki has a split personality, with a dichotomy of the revered old and the dynamic modern. Fortunately for visitors short on time, many charms of Finland’s capital and largest city may be sampled within the harbor area. If you visit during summer, the sun shines for 20 hours a day, so you’ll find plenty of time for sightseeing.

In Helsinki’s South Harbor, stroll a few blocks to the mid-19th-century neoclassical historical section, where buildings were harmoniously designed by Carl Ludvig Engel, after he created much of St. Petersburg, Russia. More than 30 public buildings surround the large Senate Square, including the Finnish Parliament, Lutheran Cathedral and the University of Helsinki. The yellow-and-white buildings are so colorful, some capped with copper domes, that many movies set in Russia (Reds, Gorky Park and Dr. Zhivago) were filmed here. For an elegant meal, dine in an Engel-designed building, G.W. Sundman, (Eteläranta 16, tel 358 9 6128 5400). Entrées include the classic char-grilled arctic char (a freshwater salmon) with morels and grilled veal noisette with béarnaise sauce.

Closer to the harbor, wander along the Esplanade, a narrow tree-filled park. Across the street fashionable shops sell beautifully designed 21stcentury Finnish items. Stylish boutiques include Arabia for ceramics and Iittala for glassware (both at Pohjoisesplanadi 25) and Marimekko (Pohjoisesplanadi 31, tel 358 9 686 0240) for fashions and fabrics. World-class shoppers head for the Arabia factory outlet located at Hameentie 135. Within the park, stop for lunch at Kappeli Kellari (Etelaesplanadi 1). The greenhouse-style brasserie with indoor and outdoor seating serves great food. Legend has it that this eatery, established in 1867, was a gathering spot for the greatest Finnish authors, composers and artists. Main courses include roasted white fish with mustard thyme sauce and pepper reindeer with root vegetables.

At the Esplanade’s eastern end, on the Baltic Sea, Market Square bursts with outdoor cafés and food and handicraft stands. In October, check out the colorful herring market, with fresh and prepared fish. Don’t forget to peek into the red-and-yellow brickcovered market building, dating from 1888, for more edible goodies.

Do as locals do, and ferry from Market Square to the 18th-century Suomenlinna Sea Fortress, now a UNESCO World Heritage site; museums and eateries abound. If there’s time back on the mainland, the Church in the Rock, Temppeliaukio Church, is an example of stunning modern architecture. Carved inside rock, its massive circular copper ceiling counterpoints the rough stone walls with pink and black strata.

Or visit the inspiring Sibelius Monumentby Eila Hiltunen. Made of steel pipes and dedicated to “Finlandia” composer Jean Sibelius, it symbolizes a birch forest, a reference to the large part nature played in his work. The most comprehensive art collection, including contemporary artists, sits at the Finnish National Gallery, which harbors three art museums: the Ateneum Art Museum, the Kiasma (Museum of Contemporary Art) and the Sinebrychoff Art Museum (Museum of Foreign Art). Also noteworthy is the Design District, where young designers ply their wares in an assortment of shops and galleries. Stop in at Design Forum Finland (Erottajankatu 7, tel 358 9 6220 8132) for furniture, jewelry and clothing made of recycled material.