Geneva is a city hard at work taking care of the world. Out of a population of 185,000, there are 32,000 international civil servants here. They’re fighting war and disease and helping people cope with disasters from one end of the globe to the other.

The United Nations Office at Geneva alone employs 1,600 people. Among the U.N.-related organizations headquartered in Geneva are the U.N. High Commission for Refugees, UNICEF and the World Health Organization.

Geneva is also home to the International Committee of the Red Cross, the World Trade Organization and the World Council of Churches. Not surprisingly, more than 40 percent of Geneva’s population is not Swiss; they come from more than 150 different nations.

It takes a lot of brainpower to tackle the world’s problems, so Geneva handles major international conferences all year long. The city has more than 200 meeting and conference centers, including the International Conference Centre (http://www.cicg.ch/en/), which can seat up to 2,200, and the Geneva Palexpo (http://www.palexpo.ch), which can accommodate up to 15,000.

Geneva’s position at the center of humanitarian efforts worldwide should come as no surprise. The city has a long history of devotion to human rights. The Enlightenment philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau was born here in 1712. Considered one of the fathers of the French Revolution, he proclaimed the equality of all men in his “Social Contract.”

Another native son, Jean Henri Dunant inspired the founding of the International Committee of the Red Cross and the first Geneva Convention (in 1864). Dunant received the first Nobel Peace Prize in 1901.

Although not a native of Geneva, the theologian John Calvin arguably set the city on its path of righteousness, arriving in 1536 just as the city was beginning to embrace Protestantism. By the time of his death in 1564, he had converted Geneva into a “Rome of the Reformation” — and a place of refuge for Protestants escaping persecution in their own countries.

His influence is still felt, not only in the city’s devotion to humanitarian missions, but in its reputation as a seat of learning. The University of Geneva, founded by Calvin in 1559, is among the oldest universities in the world. Today, the European Organization for Nuclear Research (CERN), the world’s largest particle physics laboratory, is just a short drive from the city center.

Calvin also may deserve credit for Geneva’s watch-making prowess. When luxury went out of fashion during the Reformation, Geneva’s silver- and goldsmiths turned to making something useful. A noble effort to embrace utilitarianism, no doubt, but Calvin wouldn’t recognize Geneva today. Luxury is the word here, from Patek Philippe watches to Davidoff cigars to handmade Auer or Stettler chocolates.

Hotels and restaurants do their part to maintain the rarefied atmosphere. Geneva has more than 1,100 restaurants — 11 of which have earned one or two Michelin stars. Sixteen of the more than 130 hotels have five-star ratings.

The challenge visitors face is how to enjoy all Geneva has to offer without breaking into a Swiss bank account.

LODGING

HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE

A member of the Leading Small Hotels of the World, the Hotel D’Angleterre is elegant and charming, rich in history as well as location — the hotel is right on Lake Geneva. Sixty percent of guests here are repeat visitors, bolstering the impression that this 45-room hotel is really an exclusive club. Although it was established in 1872, the Hotel D’Angleterre keeps up with the times. All the rooms were redone within the last four years, and amenities include high-speed Internet and interactive TV. $$$$
HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE
17 Quai du Mont-Blanc
tel 41 22 906 5555, fax 41 22 906 5556

HOTEL PRESIDENT WILSON

Named for the American president who started the League of Nations in Geneva, the Hotel President Wilson has catered to the rich and famous for decades. Located on the lakefront, just on the edge of downtown, the hotel offers spectacular views from many of its 236 rooms — and from its gorgeous outdoor pool. Amenities at this Starwood property include a spa, wireless Internet, and a high-concept fusion restaurant called Spice’s. According to Forbes, the Wilson’s Imperial Suite ($23,000 per night) is one of the most expensive hotel rooms in the world. $$$$
HOTEL PRESIDENT WILSON
47 Quai Wilson
tel 41 22 906 6666, fax 41 22 906 6667
http://www.hotelpwilson.com

INTERCONTINENTAL GENEVE
This 1960s-era hotel has gotten such a dramatic face lift that early visitors wouldn’t recognize the place. And that’s a good thing. New York designer Tony Chi has redone all the public areas with flair — the lobby is sleek and modern but still comfortable. Although slightly out of the way (it’s a 10-minute drive to downtown), the InterContinental is convenient for travelers to the United Nations and the International Conference Centre. Uphill from the city, it offers magnificent views from most of its 327 rooms. Amenities include an onsite Clarins Institut spa, outdoor pool, wireless Internet and business center. $$$$
INTERCONTINENTAL GENEVE
7-9 Chemin du Petit-Saconnex
tel 41 22 919 3939, fax 41 22 919 3838
http://www.intercontinental.com/geneva

DINING

LA BUVETTE DES BAINS

Right in the middle of cosmopolitan Geneva is a little lakeside getaway called the Bains des Paquis. It’s essentially a jetty into the lake with a bit of sand and a couple of trees. But there are diving boards and changing rooms — even a Turkish bath and massage area — and it’s all insanely popular with Genevans of every class. In the middle of it all, this snack bar offers full breakfast, an array of salads, a midday meal of the day and for dinner, the house specialty, Fondue au Crémant. Sit outdoors or in a lakefront cabin heated by a wood fire in winter. $$
LA BUVETTE DES BAINS
30 Quai du Mont-Blanc
tel 41 22 738 1616

BRASSERIE DE L’HÔTEL DE VILLE

Located just outside the Old Town, this classic Genevan restaurant brings the Old World to life. Dating to the 1760s, it looks as if nothing has changed here, from the little lace curtains to the leather banquettes. The menu, however, is fresh and sophisticated enough to merit a Michelin star. Good choices here are traditional — lake perch, Geneva-style sausages, rack of lamb and seasonal game. Reservations are recommended. $$$$
BRASSERIE D L’HÔTEL DE VILLE
19 Grand Rue
tel 41 22 311 7030

WOODS
Menu offerings change with the seasons and sometimes with the day in this chic wood-themed restaurant inside the InterContinental Hotel. I lucked into a special of perch caught fresh from Lake Geneva, simply prepared and elegantly displayed with a side of sauteed spinach. The “All the Chocolate” dessert is a must-try sampler of treats. Options vary, but my plate included ice cream, mousse and a truffle that split open and spilled warm chocolate all over the plate. Brunch here is also terrific. $$$$
WOODS
7-9 Chemin du Petit-Saconnex
tel 41 22 919 3939, fax 41 22 919 3838
http://www.intercontinental.com/Geneva

DIVERSIONS

The most iconic sight in Geneva is impossible to miss: The Jet d’Eau is an enormous geyser set in the middle of the lake; its plume rises 460 feet and can be seen from almost anywhere.The other symbol of Geneva, the Flower Cloc, isn’t worth going out of your way for — it’s just a flower covered hill with big watch hands.

Visitors should not miss walking through the Old Town, a maze of hilly streets still embraced by medieval fortifications. This area is full of charming shops and cafes. Be sure to drop into Town Hall — the League of Nations was born here.

Down the hill from the Old Town, the shopping is fabulous along the Rue du Rhone. And if all those beautiful watch shops tempt you to learn more about horology, it’s just a short walk to the Patek Phillippe Museum (7 Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers, tel 41 22 807 0910, http://www.patekmuseum.com). Skip the introductory film and go straight to the exhibits. There are about 700 watches on display, some dating to the 1500s. Among the sea of gold, be sure to look for little video displays that reveal the secrets of the mechanisms inside.

“Diversion” is the wrong word for a trip to the Museum of the International Red Cross and Red Crescent (17 Avenue de la Paix, tel 41 22 748 9511, http://www.micr.org), but the museum does offer an extraordinary education. Built to resemble a prison, the museum is entered through a corridor of concrete — which represents a World War I trench. It doesn’t get any more cheerful, but it is powerfully moving. Displays focus on the wars, natural disasters and epidemics that have displaced and injured millions since the Red Cross was founded in 1863.

Visitors also will want to say they’ve been to the United Nations (14 Avenue de la Paix, tel 41 22 917 48 96, http://www.unog.ch). Daily tours include a view of the main Assembly Hall, a film on U.N. activities and a look at some of the gifts the United Nations has received from around the world. Be sure to bring identification with you.

INFO TO GO

As one of the hubs of Europe, Geneva International Airport (GVA) is served by virtually every major airline. A taxi ride into the center of the city, just three miles away, will cost about $25. Alternatively, you can take the train; the ride lasts about six minutes and costs about $2.50. For more information, visit http://www.gva.ch.

Geneva is a maze of one-way streets, so this is not the place to rent a car. Much of the city can be navigated on foot. For longer distances, taxis can be hailed on the street or found at cab stands — but you’ll have more luck walking into a hotel and asking someone to call one for you. Although taxis can be expensive, many do accept credit cards. Daily passes are available for the public transportation system — bus, tram, trolley, train and boat — for about $8.25 (a single ride costs about $2.50).