Two hours south of Prague, close to the Czech Republic’s Austrian border, the charming South Bohemian town of Český Krumlov — bearing UNESCO World Heritage site status — beckons with charming streets lined with cafés, shops and workshops filled with hand-carved wooden marionettes of every imaginable kind. Puppetry is one of the Czech Republic’s most beloved forms of theater, a tradition that dates to the Middle Ages. And when it comes to theatrical venues, the city’s glittering star is without doubt The Castle Theater. Splendidly Baroque, the space is one of the few authentic existing examples of historic court theaters from the 17th century. Because of the significant nature of the building, very few performances are given, but when the curtains do open a few times each year, it’s quite literally a transformational experience.

Without the benefit of modern technology, and completely reliant on a complex sub-stage world of trap doors, pulleys, ropes and wheels, a magical world unfolds to the music of French and Italian operas, elaborate pantomimes and ballets that tell stories pulled from ancient myth and legend. Angels and clouds fly overhead while intricately painted panels slip in and out of the wings to create landscapes, detailed interiors and dramatic storms at sea. Mirrors and artificial perspective, along with soft light from thousands of electric candles (replacing the original wax versions) and hand-operated devices that imitate the sounds of wind, rain and thunder complete the illusions being created on the boards.

There’s even a dramatic story of unrequited love: When the theater was still relatively new, a real-life melodrama played out on the stage when a visiting actress called Evelyna, suffering from a broken heart, stabbed herself, dying in front of the audience during the last act. A definite curtain closer.