The driver suddenly pulls our Land Rover off the highway, jumps out and begins releasing air from the tires. Just outside urban Dubai, we are now poised to travel straight into the desert. One of seven sheikdoms that compose the United Arab Emirates, Dubai rests easy at the southern tip of the Arabian Gulf. Once a typical Middle Eastern state with an oil-fueled economy, Dubai now is leaving a vast imprint on the world’s tourist map. In fact, tourism has surpassed oil and dominates its thriving economy. Many business travelers are already familiar with this vibrant commercial and industrial center, which boasts a plethora of resort hotels and sleek skyscrapers. Far fewer know what lies beyond the glass and steel — a desert with a centuries-old mystique that I am about to discover.

My destination is the Al Maha Resort & Spa (named for the Arabian oryx, a desert-dwelling antelope), a unique desert hideaway inspired by South Africa’s extraordinary game preserves. Al Maha infuses desert adventure and Arabian culture with creature comforts second to none. Guests are encouraged to partake in traditional Arabian activities, which include falconry and camel trekking.

Equally fascinating is the reintroduction of desert animals and flora that were close to extinction in this region. To help preserve the rehabilitated environment, guests are not permitted to drive to the resort, nor are visitors allowed to drive once they are settled. Instead, guests are picked up at their hotel or at the airport for the journey that is like a boat trip on a sea of sand dunes. The austere beauty is breathtaking. My driver explains the landscape changes daily according to the whims of the wind.

Forty-five minutes into a rollercoasterlike ride, we arrive at Al Maha, an oasis composed of 40 Bedouin-style tents turned into luxury accommodations. This is no nomadic watering hole. Each suite is beautifully appointed with rustic Arabian antiques — a contrast to the sometimes overwhelming glitz of Dubai. Tented ceilings are artfully constructed of palm fronds, mirroring what Bedouins have used for hundreds of years. Rather than the perfunctory fruit bowl, a tray of succulent local dates awaits. Outside each suite is a private plunge pool that gives way to gorgeous views of the desert and the distant Hajar mountains. Native desert trees and grasses dot the property, supporting such wildlife as the rare Arabian oryx and the desert gazelle. Binoculars are a welcome amenity. Centuries ago, large herds of oryx roamed this desert. The bird population is returning, too — large owls and small desert birds such as the European bee-eater and the sand partridge. Situated on 5,500 acres, the resort is a minute part of the preserve, which had been ravaged over the years by camels and unregulated four-wheel-drive safaris. All the more startling is how close this desert paradise is to the clatter of a modern metropolis.

Emirates Airlines, Dubai’s national carrier, and the ruling Al Maktoum family reclaimed this scrubby, barren area less than a decade ago, determined to restore its natural beauty. Development of an ecoresort here, however, encountered obstacles such as the U.A.E.’s constitution, which did not permit the creation of a national park. Acres and acres of restored desert — as far as you can see — attest to Emirates’ eventual success. This mass restoration is the first of its kind in the U.A.E. and the country’s first ecotourism project.

A personal adventure guide ensures guests are immersed in the local culture. One day I opted to experience falconry, a favorite Arab pastime. First, there was a visual treat, a demonstration with several species of falcons. Then, with gloved hand, I got to “fly” a falcon for the first time. Watching it soar into the clear blue sky and then return, landing on my arm, was amazing. Up close, the power and majesty of these birds is palpable. Later that day, I climbed atop a camel to ride over dunes and beautifully imprinted wadis, which are dry riverbeds. The apex of this bumpy ride was a magical desert sunset. Another day, I trekked through the revived desert, witnessing a surprising concentration of wildlife up close and personal. Other optional activities include riding through the desert on a pure white Arabian horse and taking a shot at archery using traditional wooden bows.

If that doesn’t fulfill your quest for adventure, there’s always off-property “dune bashing” with a trained guide at the wheel of an SUV for one of the most exhilarating rides of your life. And if you’d rather take the wheel, prepare first by enrolling in a desert-driving course offered by local tour operators. A word of caution: Even after passing the course, never venture into the desert alone. If you really like the sand, try skiing on a snowboard down steep dunes, but by all means, be wary of the dangers of sand burn before you hit the slopes. Even if you don’t ski, the trip is worth the effort to see skilled locals riding the sand, their dishdashes, or native robes, fluttering in the air.

Less adventurous souls may opt to visit ancient archaeological sites or indulge in a day of pampering at Al Maha’s lavish spa and its enticing menu of soothing treatments, many of which incorporate traditional nomadic ingredients including frankincense, said to rejuvenate skin, and oil extracted from dates, believed to contain healing powers. For me, the desert tonic was the perfect antidote for the sore muscles earned on my arduous camel ride.

Dining at Al Maha is also an exotic adventure. During my January visit, it was too cold for a Bedouin camp dinner (October would be ideal). Instead, we savored our Arabic mezze and other local dishes in the well-appointed restaurant. Saloona samak was a memorable seafood soup with flavors varying, depending upon spices used, from tribe to tribe. Nomads originated the dish during trading visits to coastal areas. I also tried samak mashwe, fish cooked directly on a fire, then served with dates.

Established in 1999, Al Maha is Emirates’ first venture into the hotel business. The airline recently formed a hotel division and is gearing up to open a similar ecoresort in the Australian Outback. Set to open late this year, the Emirates Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa will be located in the Blue Mountains National Park about three hours by car from Sydney. As in Dubai, the property will be committed to the conservation of wildlife.

Nearly Dubai

Dubai is home to a number of excellent beachfront hotels including the One & Only Royal Mirage (Jumeirah Beach Road, tel 971 4 399 9999, www.oneandonlyresorts.com , set amid lush gardens. The Ritz-Carlton (95 Jebel Ali, Jumeirah, tel 971 4 399 4309, www.ritzcarlton.com) offers 1,000 feet of beachfront opposite the Emirates Golf Club. The elegant Beit al Bahar is a complex of private villas surrounded by lush gardens; a resort-within-a-resort tucked away in the Jumeirah Beach Hotel (Jumeirah Beach Road, tel 971 4 348 2273, www.jumeirahbeachhotel.com). Designed like a traditional Arabic village, with narrow, winding walkways, Beit al Bahar features doorways with guests’ names inscribed in Arabic calligraphy.

INFO TO GO

Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa (tel 971 34 303 4222, www.al-maha.com) is located 45 minutes from Dubai. Representing nearly 5 percent of Dubai’s total land area, it is the only resort in the area providing access to the desert and its indigenous wildlife. Emirates Airlines offers service to and from New York (JFK) and Dubai (DXB).