Despite the insistence of tourism folks on marketing it under the stodgy nickname “Wonderful Copenhagen,” this Danish city really is a cool place. Seat of the oldest monarchy in the world, Copenhagen is also a politically progressive destination that’s both youthful and friendly. Amid vestiges of a millennium of royal history and a wealth of historic buildings (many open to the public), visitors will find examples of the contemporary Dane’s fondness for modern design, good food and lively nightlife.

The very public Danish royal family resides in the capital city (Queen Margrethe II lives in the rococo Amalienborg Palace). When a restaurant says the queen has visited, she really has. The biggest news in the city this year is the upcoming marriage of Crown Prince Frederik to Australian Mary Donaldson, after a not-so-secret courtship (the couple met at the 2000 Sydney Olympics). The fairy-tale wedding will take place May 14, and is sure to be a major extravaganza. Expect lots of special events and festivities in the city and watch for the appearance of more than the usual selection of Australian wines on restaurant menus.

Visitors will find Copenhagen offers a wealth of cultural attractions, world-class museums, shopping and public parks. Winters are long here, but when the sun is shining, people flock outdoors to sit at cafés or stretch out on grassy knolls-sometimes even sunbathing topless. Copenhagen residents have a fondness for bicycle transportation. From May 1 to Dec. 15, bicycles may be used for free through a system that works much like luggage cart rentals at major airports. Find one of the city’s 110 City Bike parking spots, drop in a 20 kroner coin (about $3), grab a bike and ride away. When you’re done, return the bike to any City Bike parking spot and get your money back. Copenhagen also has a well-established bus system and a brand-new Metro. And you can easily cover Old Copenhagen, with its narrow cobblestone streets and old houses, on foot. For fun, head to Tivoli Gardens, an extraordinary historic amusement park in the center of the city.

A note of whimsy-one of Copenhagen’s most famous residents was Hans Christian Andersen. The city will celebrate the 200th anniversary of the renowned fairy-tale author’s birth-he wrote The Little Mermaid, The Ugly Duckling, The Emperor’s New Clothes and The Princess and the Pea-in 2005.

On the business side, Copenhagen is home to a full roster of consumer goods manufacturers and distributors, including Bang & Olefson, a top designer of home entertainment and audio systems; and LEGO, named “toy of the century” by Fortune magazine. (The name LEGO is derived from the Danish phrase “leg godt” meaning “play well.”) Skagen Designs, a Danish company noted for its watches, is another familiar name, although the company’s Danish owners, Henrik and Charlotte Jorst, run the operation from Reno, Nev. Renowned Danish silversmithery Georg Jenson will celebrate its 100th anniversary in April and Danish brewer Carlsberg operates a Copenhagen brewery that’s open for free tours.

Copenhagen-based shipping and oil and gas exploration firm A.P. Moller-Maersk Group has more than 60,000 employees worldwide and is currently funding construction of the Copenhagen Opera House. Featuring a cutting-edge design by Danish architectural firm Henning Larsens Tegnestue A/S, the venue-slated to open in January-is expected to rival Australia’s landmark Sydney Opera House, which was designed in the late 1950s by Danish architect Jørn Utzon.

Prime Minister Anders Fogh Rasmussen, a proponent of E.U. expansion, heads up the Danish government. Rasmussen, who has called for international involvement in the stabilization of Iraq, was attacked for that stance last year when an activist drenched him in red paint. In general, though, Denmark’s political culture is one of compromise and consensus among numerous parties. When Rasmussen took office in 2002, in a victory fueled by the combined support of the Liberal Party and the Conservative People’s Party, it was the first time the Social Democratic Party had lost its position as the largest party represented in the Danish Parliament.

To date, Danes have resisted efforts to switch to the euro. The country’s monetary system remains the Danish krone (or kroner in its plural form), made up of 100 øre. The international monetary designation for Danish kroner is DKK. Banknotes are issued in 50, 100, 500 and 1,000 kroner. The rate of exchange at press time was $1 = 6.06DKK.

Hotels

Hotel d’Angleterre
The top-of-the-line grand dame property in Copenhagen is Hotel d’Angleterre. Hans Christian Andersen slept at this 250-year-old, five-star property, and so did Madonna. The hotel has an excellent location on a square, close to Nyhavn and the pedestrian street Stroget, and is very posh and old-world. The 123 guestrooms and suites (including two Royal Suites) boast antiques, high ceilings and marble bathrooms. The rooms facing the courtyard are the quietest. There’s an elegant restaurant, Restaurant Wiinblad, serving French-influenced cuisine, a comfortable bar (where you can also get a light meal) and a lavish new spa and fitness center (complete with heated swimming pool).

Hotel d’Angleterre,
Kongens Nytorv 34
Copenhagen, Denmark,
tel 800 44 UTELL or 45 33 12 00 95,
fax 45 33 12 1118, www.remmen.dk

Marriott Copenhagen
The new Marriott Copenhagen is an 11-story high-rise right on the harbor, an area that’s currently getting a lot of attention from developers. The location is about a half mile from the main railway station and Tivoli Gardens. Public rooms have lots of glass to make the most of the water views. There’s a big fitness center and a business center. The hotel’s Terraneo restaurant serves Mediterranean cuisine, and you can dine indoors or out (weather-permitting) at the property’s Waterfront Café. All 395 guestrooms and suites have high-speed Internet access and there’s wireless access in public areas. Accommodations include executive-level rooms with access to a private club for breakfast and snacks.

Marriott Copenhagen, Kalvebod Brygge 5
Copenhagen, Denmark, tel 45 88 33 99 00
fax 45 88 33 99 99,
www.marriott.com

Radisson SAS Royal Hotel
A landmark structure dating to the 1960s, the Radisson SAS Royal Hotel, near the central train station, was Copenhagen’s first major skyscraper. The hotel was designed inside and out by famous Danish architect Arne Jacobsen and the current owners have taken pains to bring it back to its original 1960s look-including placing Jacobsen’s egg chairs in the lobby. Accommodations include standard rooms, Royal Club rooms (with free breakfast buffet and other special amenities), junior suites and suites. The latter are located on the top floor and feature panoramic views of the city. All rooms have high-speed Internet access. Facilities include a fitness center with sauna and solarium, a Danish/Italian restaurant (on the 20th floor), a café and a bar. There’s also a ground floor Internet center.

Radisson SAS Royal Hotel
Hammerichsgade 1
Copenhagen, Denmark
tel 45 33 42 6000
fax 45 33 42 6100
www.radissonsas.com

Imperial Hotel
Part of the Golden Tulip chain, the Imperial Hotel is a friendly property with reasonable rates and a good city center location near the train station and only a short walk from Tivoli Gardens or the Stroget. The décor is Danish modern, highlighted by original modern art. The hotel offers 163 rooms and one hip suite (with living room, kitchen and dining room), all done up in bright colors and offering high-speed Internet access. The Imperial Hotel has two highly rated restaurants: the Brasserie Imperial, a popular people-watching spot; and the Imperial Garden, which boasts its own butchery. Weekend rates include breakfast.

Imperial Hotel,
Vester Farimagsgade 9
Copenhagen, Denmark,
tel 45 33 12 8000
fax 45 33 12 8003,
www.imperialhotel.dk

Restaurants

Modern Danish cuisine gets its inspiration from France and Italy, but adds a lot of cream, cheese (including locally produced Havarti) and other dairy. Herring is a local specialty, often marinated and served with a cream sauce. Another specialty, open-faced sandwiches known as smorrebrod, are best enjoyed with locally brewed Carlsberg or Tuborg beer. In the summer, many diners head to either Nyhavn (New Harbor), home to numerous outdoor, canal-front cafés, or Tivoli Gardens, the city’s famous amusement park, which counts fine dining among its numerous attributes. No fewer than six of Copenhagen’s restaurants have been awarded Michelin one-star status. Kommandanten (see below) carries a Michelin two-star rating.

Kommandanten
This two-star Michelin restaurant is known for its classic and contemporary Danish-French cuisine and entrées prepared using the finest seasonal ingredients. Dishes might include roasted monkfish and langoustines with wild mushrooms or grilled pork with a terrine of beets and prunes. Service is superb. The restaurant is in a charming building, which dates to 1698 and was once the residence of Copenhagen’s military commander (hence the restaurant’s name). Main courses cost $50 to $55. A fixed price menu is offered at $120. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Sundays. Reservations required.

Kommandanten,
Ny Adelgade 7
Copenhagen, Denmark,
tel 45 33 12 0990
fax 45 33 93 1223,
www.kommandanten.dk

Leonore Christine
Open year-round, this restaurant, named for the bitter enemy of the 17th century queen of Denmark (Sophie Amalie), is located in a gabled house dating to 1681, and is known as the finest venue in Nyhavn. The cuisine is French-influenced, and might include such offerings as oven-baked halibut with mussels and saffron and wild duck served with wild mushrooms. The menu changes weekly. There is outside dining in summer. Main courses cost $32 to $43. A fixed price menu is offered at $70. Open for lunch and dinner.
Reservations required.
Leonore Christine,
Nyhavn 9,
Copenhagen, Denmark
tel 45 33 13 50 40,
fax 45 33 13 50 40
www.leonore-christine.dk

Peder Oxe
In a building that dates to the 1700s, you’ll find a lively, rustic bistro and wine bar. The cuisine-grilled steaks and fish, lobster soup and burgers and a salad bar-has been called the best in Copenhagen. This is also a good place to try open-faced sandwiches (especially the ones featuring tiny Danish shrimp). In sunny weather you can sit outside (the restaurant provides blankets if it’s cool). Main courses cost $13 to $33. Fixed price lunches are offered at $18 to $20.

Peder Oxe,
Grabrodretorv 11,
Copenhagen, Denmark
tel 45 33 11 00 77,
fax 45 33 13 90 86,
www.pederoxe.dk

Shopping

The best buys in Copenhagen include Danish-designed items such as silver, stainless steel, porcelain, china, glassware, toys, furniture, textiles and jewelry. The Strøget, the oldest and longest pedestrian shopping street in the world, provides the best shopping opportunities. It runs through the heart of Copenhagen from Kongens Nytorv to Radhuspladsen and offers a wide variety of stores (at the Radhuspladsen end are younger brands like H&M and souvenir shops selling Scandinavian sweaters and the like; closer to Kongens Nytorv are European designer brands like Prada, Max Mara and Louis Vuitton).

In addition to numerous small shops, there are two main department stores, Illum (Ostergade 52) and Magasin (Kongens Nytorv 13). Royal Copenhagen (Amagertorv 6), the famous porcelain company founded in 1775, offers a glamorous showroom in a red brick building that dates from the Renaissance. Christmas plates are among the company’s rather expensive, hand-painted items (look in the seconds section for bargains). Next door (at Amagertorv 4), legendary silversmith Georg Jenson offers fine silver (gold, too) in streamlined Danish designs. Branching off Stroget (go to Amagertorv Square and head right), is Kobmagergade, the city’s second-largest pedestrian street and the place for midpriced clothes like Benetton and Diesel.

If you get tired on the Stroget, grab a coffee or a beer at an outdoor café or sit on a bench to people watch-street performers offer an interesting diversion. Two nearby areas-Grabodretorv
and Fiolstraede-house antiques shops and bookstores.

Another place to hunt for souvenirs is Tivoli Gardens. If all else fails, the tax-free shopping center at the airport is a good bet.

Attractions

Tivoli Gardens
1843 amusement park in the heart of Copenhagen. A must-do.
Vesterbrogade 3, tel 33 15 10 01.

Christiansborg Palace
The queen officially receives guests here. Tours are offered.
Christianborg Slotsplads, tel 33 92 64 92.

The Little Mermaid (Den Lille Havfrue)
Life-size bronze of the Hans Christian Andersen character of the same name. Langelinie, on the harbor.

Ny Carlsberg Glypotek
One of Scandinavia’s most important art museums. Founded in the 19th century by Carl Jacobsen, also founder of the Carlsberg Brewing Co. Dantes Plads 7, tel 33 41 81 41.

Amalienborg Palace
Home to Danish royal family since 1794; four mansions on a pretty square. Christian VIII’s Palace, tel 33 12 21 86.

Getting There

Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) (tel 800 221 2350, www.scandinavian.net) flies nonstop to Copenhagen from Newark, N.J., Chicago and Seattle, with connecting flights from other U.S. cities on United Airlines (as part of the Star Alliance). Icelandair (tel 800 223 5500, www.icelandair.com) flies to Copenhagen through Reykjavik, Iceland. Northwest Airlines/KLM (tel 800 447 4747,www.nwa.com) flies to Copenhagen through Amsterdam, Netherlands. Fares are highest during the June to September peak season. For more information on travel to Copenhagen, contact the Danish Tourist Board (tel 212 885 9700, www.visitdenmark.com). Another useful Web site is www.visitcopenhagen.dk.

Travel Tip: The value-added tax in Denmark is a whopping 25 percent. Visitors who spend more than 300DKK at any one store are eligible for at least a partial refund.