To experience tropical breezes, restorative spa treatments, frosty umbrella drinks and a laid-back lifestyle with minimum travel hassles, where better for two California girls to go for a long weekend but Mexico’s Baja California Peninsula? And where better in Baja but Los Cabos?

There are several non-stop daily flights from Los Angeles to Los Cabos International Airport, and the flight time is just over two hours. Not spending hours in the air or in airports means more time on the beach, in the water or by the pool. It also means no jet lag, so we knew we could immediately segue into vacation mode, whether we chose to party hearty or just chill. Chill was more our speed, and we intended to do plenty of it.

Los Cabos is actually a municipality on the southern tip of Baja California Sur. It encompasses the towns of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo and the Resort Corridor running between the two.

We landed at the airport near San José del Cabo, picked up our bags and our rental car and headed south on Highway 1. We’d decided to rent a car so we’d have the freedom to explore when and where we liked.

Our hotel, the Hilton Los Cabos Resort, was located on the Resort Corridor about midway between San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas. One of the reasons we decided on it over a plethora of appealing alternatives was its location on an inlet bay in the Sea of Cortez with access to a swimming-allowed beach; I have a definite preference for the ocean over a swimming pool.

Fifty years ago, Cabo San Lucas was a sleepy little fishing village, San José del Cabo a quiet colonial town, the Resort Corridor decades in the future. Los Cabos started to become known as a sportfishing haven as early as the 1930s, when the only way to get there was by small plane, long-range yacht or a thousand miles of bad roads.

In the 1950s, Hollywood’s elite discovered Los Cabos’ charms, and the exclusive Las Cruces Hotel was built. What really turned things around, however, was the building of the peninsular highway in 1974, meaning a road trip was no longer out of the question. Around this time, marlin fishing tournaments began drawing attention, and Fonatur, the Mexican tourist agency, collaborated with international developers to start pouring money and resources into the area.

Construction of the international airport in 1986 made travel to Los Cabos even easier, and hotels and timeshare developments started popping up seemingly overnight. Today, Los Cabos is vacation central, with scores of high-end resorts, happening bars, world-class golf courses and enough action to satisfy the most extreme member of the active set.

The area has something for everyone. Cabo San Lucas is definitely where the action is, with plenty of bars, casual restaurants and souvenir shops. San José del Cabo, established in the early part of the 18th century, offers charming colonial architecture and a laid-back atmosphere.

In between the two towns, approximately 20 miles of pristine beaches and craggy coves form the corridor where the majority of the area’s resorts are located. It’s also where championship golf courses, like Cabo Real designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., provide challenging greens with spectacular views.

Tourism replaced fishing as the area’s main source of revenue, though sportfishing is one of Los Cabos’ main attractions. Whale watching is a hot ticket in winter, when the huge mammals come to bask in the warm water.

We checked into the Hilton, changed into bathing suits and headed for lounge chairs by one of the two pools. We ordered pomegranate margaritas, cracked open our books and settled back to soak up some sun. But I can only chill for so long, so after a buffet lunch it was time to do a little exploring.

We decided to head for the town of Cabo San Lucas, widely known as a haven for the party set. The town was little more than a cluster of fishing shacks until tourism arrived. Over the past 40 years, it has grown into a bustling town catering to tourists — especially tourists ready to party. And with cantinas named The Nowhere Bar, El Squid Roe and the Giggling Marlin, you can bet some serious partying goes on.

Cruise ships dock off Cabo San Lucas on a regular basis, so things can get pretty crazy, but happily all was relatively calm the afternoon we visited.

With its reputation for being rowdy and appealing to the younger set, many tourists steer clear, but the town has some surprises. Who knew it was the only coastal resort in Mexico with a nature preserve within its city limits? The underwater nature preserve is only a few minutes’ boat ride from the town’s large harbor, and besides the preserve, a boat trip offers a closer look at the much-photographed Land’s End rock formations.

The famous Arch, or El Arco, marks the last instance of land between Baja California and the open waters southward. Reachable only by boat, the Arch recently received UNESCO World Heritage site status.

Various local companies offer tours both above and under the water. Cabo Adventures is a well-run company specializing in active tours. The snorkel and sea adventure begins with a ride past the famous arch on the way to secluded coves where underwater life can be viewed up close and personal. They can also take you ziplining, scuba diving, mountain biking, whale watching and, for those looking for the unusual, on an eco-tour of the Baja Desert aboard a camel.

Cabo San Lucas Tours provides everything from airport transfers to a ride on a pirate ship. Since we weren’t dressed for swimming and didn’t have time for a full day of snorkeling, we opted for their 45-minute glass-bottomed boat ride. Perfect — we got a close-up view of the famous Arch and had a chance to check out sea life without getting wet.

When we got back to the harbor, we headed off to explore the town. Downtown was jumping, and it was barely cocktail hour. I shuddered to think what it would be like later that evening.

Loud music poured out of the restaurants and cantinas, which were jammed with laughing revelers in beachwear and flip-flops. We considered stopping in one of the bars for a beer but opted to head for our chosen dinner location instead.

Talk about culture shock. In a few short minutes, we were transported from the boozy hilarity of downtown Cabo San Lucas to the luxurious tranquility of the Capella Pedregal Resort. Not only is the resort light years away from downtown in feel, it’s also separated by an almost 1,000-foot tunnel carved through a mountain of rock. We were eager for our splurge dinner at the acclaimed El Farallón restaurant.

The experience is a bit like eating in a high-end fish market. Fresh fish caught by local fishermen are displayed on mounds of shaved ice. The selection of the day is written on a blackboard, and a “seafood concierge” is on hand to answer any questions and help you make a decision. Once you’ve made your selection, the fish is weighed on an old-fashioned scale and sent to the chef, who cooks it over an open grill. We picked snapper, which was perfectly grilled and delicious.

The next day, after a morning walk on the beach and a little lounging around the pool, we headed to the 5-star Fiesta Americana Grand to try out its SOMMA WineSPA.

How could a confirmed wine drinker like myself pass up a chance to visit a spa that uses wine-making byproducts in its treatments? The process, known as vinotherapy, is based on studies claiming grape juice and polyphenol extracts from grape seeds contain high levels of antioxidants and natural substances derived from the fermentation process. The theory is that when applied to the body, the extracts help prevent and fight the aging of skin. Sounded good to me.

Two of the most notable differences from a more traditional spa experience were the aromatic oils used during my massage emitted a faintly wine-like aroma, and at the end of my treatment I was offered a glass of the day’s featured wine rather than a cup of herbal tea.

In the late afternoon, we headed for San José del Cabo. The difference between the two Los Cabos towns is dramatic. Where Cabo San Lucas is heaven for the party set, San José appeals to vacationers looking for a more traditional Mexican experience.

Mission of San José del Cabo Anuití Catholic Church is the cornerstone of the central square. Graceful colonial-style buildings house small shops selling artwork, handmade furniture, jewelry and good-quality decorator items. I employed some serious sales resistance to keep within my budget. Fortunately, hunger pangs kept me from maxing out my credit card.

We were looking for a restaurant with alfresco seating, so we wound up at Tequila, which had a large stone patio shaded by trees festooned with lanterns. It also had live music and plenty of fish on the menu.

The breeze was balmy, the stars were out, and the margaritas were perfectly chilled. It was my idea of holiday heaven.

Info To Go

International and domestic flights arrive at Los Cabos International Airport (SJD). The airport is located eight miles from San José del Cabo and a 30- to 40-minute drive from Cabo San Lucas. Shuttles, vans, taxis and rental cars are available at the airport. Some resorts may offer shuttle service.

Lodging

Capella Pedregal Resort

At this high-end, 24-acre property, every room has a private terrace with plunge pool; the amenities and service are top of the line. Camino del Mar 1, Cabo San Lucas $$$$

Fiesta Americana Grand Los Cabos Golf & Spa Resort

Perched on a cliff overlooking the Sea of Cortez, private balconies offer stunning views. Don’t pass on the SOMA WineSPA treatments. Carretera Transpeninsular Km. 10.3, Col. Cabo del Sol, Los Cabos $$$–$$$$

Hilton Los Cabos Beach & Golf Resort

Private access to the only swimming-allowed beach in Los Cabos is a highlight at this Four Diamond property on a Sea of Cortez inlet. Carretera Transpeninsular Km. 19.5, Los Cabos $$$–$$$$

Dining

El Faralón

Straight off local boats, the fish couldn’t be fresher, and the terrace overlooking the sea is divinely romantic. Capella Pedregal, Camino del Mar 1, Cabo San Lucas $$$$

Las Mariscadas

This unpretentious restaurant serves great seafood at reasonable prices. Try the ceviche and the seafood soup full of shrimp, calamari and scallops. Calle Cabo San Lucas between Lazaro Cardenas and 5 de Mayo streets, Cabo San Lucas $$

Tequila Restaurant

Offering a lovely ambience and alfresco dining, this restaurant boasts homegrown organic herbs and vegetables, fresh fish and frosty margaritas. Manuel Doblado 1011, San José del Cabo $$$–$$$$

Weblinks

Cabo Adventures
Cabo San Lucas Tours
Los Cabos Convention & Visitors Bureau