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Poor Mrs. O’Leary was chastised for life after her cow supposedly tipped over that lantern and started the Great Chicago Fire in 1871. New revelations have come out recently that it was “Peg Leg” Sullivan who was the culprit. Feeding his mother’s cow in Mrs. O’Leary’s barn, ol’ Peg Leg dropped some of his pipe embers onto the hay, which caught fire; and the rest, as they say, is history. Yes, it was a tragedy, killing an estimated 130 people and leveling the entire city. Yet, like the phoenix rising from the ashes, a spectacular skyline soon emerged, and Chicago blossomed. If you’re fortunate enough to visit Chicago during the warm-weather months, there are numerous ways to immerse yourself in this “City of Broad Shoulders.”

I set up home base at the centrally located Four Seasons Hotel (www.fourseasons.com/chicagofs), where I booked a corner room with views of the John Hancock Building and Oak Street Beach. The fitness room on the eighth floor also has a good vista of the old Water Tower, one of the few buildings that actually survived the Great Chicago Fire.

From the Four Seasons, head south on Michigan Avenue, dubbed The Magnificent Mile for its collection of high-end shops like Nordstrom and the original American Girl, until you reach the Chicago River. This is where a 90-minute cruise run by the Chicago Architecture Foundation (www.architecture.org) begins. Thanks to the narrated tour, you’ll spot the massive Art Deco Merchandise Mart that spreads over two city blocks, the Beaux Arts Wrigley Building and the eyebrow-shaped balconies of architect Bertrand Goldberg’s River City.

After the boat ride, continue south on Michigan Avenue to visit the latest iconic structure in Chicago, Anish Kapoor’s Cloud Gate. Better known as “The Bean,” this stainless steel sculpture is a people magnet as both young and old cavort to find their image on the mirror-like exterior, surrounded by the tall buildings that curve with the structure.

For lunch, order the chopped salad, panini or burgers from the nearby Park Grill (www.park grillchicago.com) in Millennium Park. Then wander across the pedestrian bridge to Renzo Piano’s new addition to the Art Institute of Chicago (www.artic.edu). Enter this remarkable museum to find one of the largest collections of Monet’s works in the world; Seurat’s masterpiece A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte; and my personal favorite, the Thorne Miniature Rooms, dollhouses that have been impeccably designed with the décor and style from numerous eras in American and European history.

If you still have the energy, take a taxi to Navy Pier (and its signature Ferris wheel) and rent a bike to pedal along the Lake Michigan shoreline. Heading south on a paved trail, you’ll pass Buckingham Fountain; the Shedd Aquarium; and Soldier Field, home to the Chicago Bears. However, it’s the jaw-dropping vista of the city skyline on your return trip that will have you reaching for your camera.

Take a quick shower and make a reservation for dinner that evening at Next (www.nextrestaurant.com),the latest offering from acclaimed Chicago chef Grant Achatz. Every three months, the menu and time period change, so you might be enjoying
a prix-fixe menu from 1906 Paris or modern-day Thai food. Tables are paid for well in advance, like theater tickets, so you won’t need to bring a purse or wallet.