Our annual treks to Walla Walla, Washington, are driven by the pursuit of great wine, but we always enjoy partaking of wonderful food at local restaurants there, all of whom focus on local, sustainable products and the freshest of ingredients. In the spring, one can be sure to find tender spears of asparagus on virtually every menu around town, as it grows abundantly here, and the peak of harvest coincides with Spring Release weekend.
Each of the restaurants we visited for dinner on our most recent trip to this great wine region served up its homage to the spring vegetable. Passatempo Taverna, our dining spot on Thursday evening, offered grilled asparagus sprinkled with shaved egg yolk, a unique presentation that satisfied the taste buds as well. The next night we dined at Hattaway’s on Alder, another favorite, and savored oven-roasted asparagus marinated in duck fat (be still, my heart!) and served with lemon zest, garlic and a pecan romesco sauce. Again, the asparagus was perfectly cooked, tender but not limp. The final iteration, at TMACS, a new-to-us eatery, came in the form of a cream of asparagus soup drizzled with a balsamic reduction sauce. Perfectly balanced, it allowed the asparagus to shine without being bland or overly seasoned. And those were just our starter courses!
We usually hit Passatempo on our first night in town, enjoying its casual vibe and Italian food. It seems as though the menu has fewer main entrées these days, but everything on it tempts. Following the asparagus, we decided to share a prosciutto and onion jam pizza, its light, crispy crust drizzled with olive oil and layered with mozzarella, arugula, prosciutto and a tangy-sweet red onion and poppy jam. I followed with a perfectly sized serving of pasta with olive oil, roasted garlic and pecorino cheese, while Harry ordered a heartier, wonderfully savory rigatoni alla Bolognese, featuring a beef and pork ragu topped with breadcrumbs, Parm and whipped ricotta. We finished the meal with a few scoops of the house-made gelato, a light and refreshing end to a satisfying repast.
Hattaway’s on Alder has also become one of our go-to reliables for a fine meal. In addition to the asparagus, we splurged on the duck pâté, a creamy pot of decadence served with grilled bread; a not-too-sweet fig mostardo; and pickled celery and onion, which proved perfect crunchy, tart complements to the pâté. We each loved our entrées: I had a tender, rich, honey-glazed pork collar served on a swirl of harissa-spiced carrot purée, and Harry ordered the Duck Confit Fried Rice. He said the flavors melded beautifully and the duck was exceedingly juicy and tender. We ordered the Deschutes Black Butte Porter Bread Pudding to go, an item on the menu I’ve been eyeing for years. Sadly, it was not as satisfying as I had anticipated, with the bread not as substantial as I expected and the whiskey butterscotch sauce surprisingly bland and thin.
Our final Walla Walla dinner at TMACS gave us the chance to try a new place, and we came away with a mixed impression. It boasts a large curved bar which seems quite popular, and the drinks menu features an extensive list of inventive cocktails, spirits and wine. (I tried a refreshing — and pretty — Sloe Day with vodka, raspberry liqueur, lime and apricot.) Windows extend down the entire side of the restaurant and wrap around the corners, and a mezzanine space above provides additional seating. The décor is upscale, clean and modern, but we found all the hard surfaces reflected sounds and made for a noisy atmosphere. This proved especially unfortunate when a very boisterous group of six was seated next to us just after we were served our complimentary amuse bouche, a duck mousse served with a red onion jam. It made it difficult for us to converse with each other and enjoy our meal (the table of four on our other side felt the same way).
In addition to that creamy soup, I enjoyed the artfully presented house garden salad featuring wild greens, cherry tomatoes, roasted baby carrots, cucumbers and toasted pepitas dressed with a light tarragon vinaigrette. I then ordered the Crab Ravioli with a caper dill cream sauce . . . not as flavorful as I would have liked, and Harry opted for a hearty Pappardelle Bolognese. He found the beef and pork ragu very tasty, but the pasta itself was extraordinarily thick and heavy. By the end of the meal we were more than eager to escape the noise and chose not to get dessert. TMACS appears to be a trendy, lively place with appealing drinks and an interesting menu (with prices on the high end compared to similar restaurants around town), but we decided it was not the best option after a long day of wine tasting and running around. We may have to give it another go on a future trip . . . and ask for a quieter corner.
— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor
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