“Don’t ask me any politically sensitive questions,” the guide instructed her little band of followers as their bus approached Tiananmen Square. The police, she explained, monitor tour guides, “and I don’t want to get arrested. I’ll tell you anything you want to know, once we’re back on the bus.”

For Westerners, accustomed to spouting any provocative theory or challenge they please, such caution seems extreme. But in China, while regulations on everyday living have loosened considerably, there is still a noticeable absence of attitude. And sure enough, as the group made its way across the vast expanse of Tiananmen Square, a guard or two always followed alongside — not in a menacing way, but listening intently.

Not to worry — this year, Beijing is all about the Olympics and making foreign visitors happy. The “Five Friendlies” Olympic mascots are everywhere; street vendors sell keychains, charms and other notions sporting the cartoonish (but adorable) characters who symbolize the five nature elements of feng shui. Their names—Bei, Jing, Huan, Ying, Ni — together translate to, “Welcome to Beijing.”

Beijing is putting on a new face — even its street signs now display phonetic street names alongside the Chinese characters — in hopes that visitors will find their destinations without jamming the already-clogged streets. In fact, the city’s 8 million residents reportedly have been told to stay home during the Olympics to reduce the pollution and congestion.

Still, getting around is surprisingly easy, especially by taxi, which costs less than 20 yuan (about $2.60) for a 15-minute ride.

The society is deeply traditional. While the Chinese are fascinated with Western conveniences and they flock to Internet cafes, they also cling fiercely to the family-oriented, conservative values and roles taught by Confucius. Visitors will notice that Chinese people don’t hesitate to ask personal questions Americans might consider intrusive; inquiring about one’s salary, age and marital status is normal conversation in China. Disorderly crowding to get into a place, rather than forming an orderly queue, is also the norm.

Another cultural contrast: The Chinese do not tip (although some upscale hotels now add service fees for such conveniences as in-room meals). Tip a taxi driver and he won’t understand; he might well chase you to return a few cents. Bargaining, too, is expected, even for such purchases as hotel rooms (if the hotel is Chineseowned and operated).

For morning news, better hotels distribute copies of China Daily, the country’s English-language newspaper. Because the government controls all communications, the oft-quirky, happy-news paper reports controversies such as the boycott of disposable chopsticks. When you crave a dose of objective cultural and entertainment reporting, look for free papers such as that’s Beijing, distributed in cafes and some hotel lobbies. Read it over a cold Tsingtao beer or a glass of Great Wall red wine.

LODGING

CHINA WORLD HOTEL

Beijing’s most sumptuous hotel prides itself on service and convenience, whether that means complimentary two-hour use of meeting rooms, suit pressing on the house, or the capacity to stage a 2,000-person meeting in its conference hall. Recreational offerings range from dance studios to squash and tennis courts, and private butler service is available. Located in the Central Business District, the 716-room hotel anchors the China World Trade Centre and connects to the subway and a posh shopping mall.$$$$
CHINA WORLD HOTEL
1 Jianguomenwai
tel 86 10 6505 2266
http://www.shangri-la.com

HOTEL NEW OTANI CHANG FU GONG
Located on Beijing’s biggest street (the “Long Peaceful Road”), this Japaneseoperated hotel attracts upscale business travelers with a full-service business center, elegant restaurants, and spacious guestrooms with complimentary br oadband. The lobby bar is popular for deal-making, and the tiny bookshop carries the ideal souvenir: handmade faux silk-covered journals, for just a few dollars.$$$$
HOTEL NEW OTANI CHANG FU GONG
26 Jianguomenwai
tel 86 10 6512 5555
http://www.newotani.co.jp

REGENT BEIJING
A view of Beijing doesn’t get any better than the panorama of the Forbidden City from this 500-room hotel. Almost as impressive is its collection of polished red sandalwood art and collectibles, produced by the hotel owner’s team of artisans. The hotel’s five restaurants and lounges feature both Cantonese and international dishes, and its spa offers traditional Chinese massages. $$$$
REGENT BEIJING
99 Jinbao St., Dongcheng District
tel 86 10 8522 1888
http://www.regenthotels.com

DINING

BEIJING ROAST DUCK RESTAURANT

The Chinese name for this famous duck palace is Beijing Dadong Kaoyadian, but locals — who, with expats, make up most of the regular customers — call it simply, “Dadong.” One bite of that crispy-skinned bird and you’ll understand why, without a reservation, you might wait as long as two hours for a table. Dadong claims its duck feast has fewer calories than any in town. The restaurant also is known for its fried oysters in Szechuan pepper-salt, but come on — when in Peking…$$$
BEIJING ROAST DUCK RESTAURANT
Building 3, Tuanjiehu Beikou, Dong San Huan Bei Lu
tel 86 10 6582 2892

HUANG TING

History befriends contemporary design in this reincarnation of Old Beijing. Part of the Peninsula Beijing hotel’s recent remodeling, Huang Ting is furnished with thousands of gray bricks from demolished hutong (traditional neighborhoods), recycled slate floors, wooden screens, carved stone friezes, and beams from a 200-year-old mansion. Placed throughout are antiques from the Qing dynasty (1644-1911). Choose from the Cantonese menu, with entrees such as braised shark fin with crabmeat, or the separate Dim Sum menu — always changing, depending on seasonal ingredients.$$$
HUANG TING
8 Goldfish Lane
tel 86 10 8516 2888
http://beijing.peninsula.com

KONG YIJI

Stroll through a small bamboo grove to your table, where calligraphy scrolls and shelves of Chinese texts will surround you. The décor at this respected restaurant is as sophisticated as the menu, which is printed in traditional vertical style. Only the bravest diners order “Drunken Shrimp” (zuixia) — happy little shrimp, still alive and swimming in a glass bowl of wine. Kong Yiji’s signature dish is mizhi luyu, whole fish deep-fried, then broiled with onions and a sweet sauce. A fine accompaniment is huangjiu, aged rice wine served warm in silver pots.$$$
KONG YIJI
Deshengmennei
tel 86 10 6618 4917

INFO TO GO

Several airlines fly from the United States to Beijing Capital International Airport (PEK), including Air China, Cathay Pacific, China Eastern Airlines, Korean Air, Air Canada, Northwest and United. All visitors entering the People’s Republic of China must have a passport, valid for at least six months beyond their visit, and a visa.

Taxis are the best option for getting from the airport to the city center. They are queued at a designated spot outside the exit doors.

For getting around, the subway is efficient but confusing; riding its various lines requires three separate tickets, all priced differently. Taxis take a bit longer, but they are plentiful and easy to hail on the street. Train travel between Beijing and Shanghai is efficient, though buses between cities on the east coast are comfortable, efficient and much less expensive.

DIVERSIONS

Save at least half a day to visit Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City (4 Jingshan Qianjie, tel 86 10 8511 7041, http://www.dpm.org.cn), and that’s assuming you skip the long lines at Mao’s Mausoleum. Kite-flying has replaced protests on the vast square. Enter the Forbidden City (now called The Palace Museum) under the huge portrait of Mao, and traipse through courtyard after courtyard, past such golden-roofed, virtuous-sounding sites as the Palace of Heavenly Purity, Palace of Earthly Tranquility, Hall of Mental Cultivation and the Hall of Supreme Harmony, still housing the emperors’ throne.

A short drive from the city sits the Temple of Heaven (Tian Tan Dong Lu, Chongwen, tel 86 10 6702 8866), the emperor’s personal temple and one of the most perfect examples of feng shui and ancient symbolism in all of China. In good weather you’ll see tai chi classes, school groups and the Beijing Opera rehearsing in the surrounding park.

The peaceful Summer Palace complex (northwest Haidian District, tel 86 10 6288 1144), with its Tower of the Fragrance of the Buddha on the slope of Longevity Hill, is another popular recreation spot for both locals and tourists. Be sure to walk the 795-yard Long Hall to ensure your long life.

If you have just one free day in Beijing, however, head for the Great Wall of China (44 miles northwest of Beijing, tel 86 10 6912 1017). The restored Badaling section is the most accessible. If you can climb past the first four or five towers (positioned two “arrow shots” apart, about 200 feet) in either direction, you can leave the crowds and souvenir vendors behind, and enjoy the best views of the wall, snaking across mountain peaks. It’s a strenuous trek; take water.

For authentic Chinese entertainment, visit the Beijing Opera (Zhengyici Theater, 220 Xiheyan Dajie, tel 86 10 8315 1649, or Huguang Guildhall, 3 Hufang Lu, tel 86 10 6351 8284). The colors and visual effect are dazzling. For shopping: Some of the best is in the studios and galleries of the 798 Art District(2-4 Jiuxian Qiao Lu, Da Shan Zi). Cloisonne was invented in Beijing, and you can find decent, affordable examples in the government-owned “Friendship Stores” at every historical attraction.