Forget everything you have heard about Athens, Greece. That’s the conclusion I came to following a recent visit. I arrived expecting a polluted, garbage-strewn, unfriendly city. By the time I left, I was planning my return. Either Athens has been getting a bad rap all these years, or in preparation for this summer’s Olympic Games, it truly has undergone a frog-to-prince transformation. The truth about the Greek capital may lie somewhere in between.

My first impression of Athens came in the form of the new, award-winning international airport, Eleftherios Venizelos (ath). The bright, shiny terminal is easy to navigate — a far cry from the city’s former, very dingy airport. Employees in the main terminal’s numerous shops and restaurants greeted me with friendly smiles. Although a suburban railway, starting at the airport and connecting to the city center, remains under construction, an inexpensive and efficient bus system offers an easy way to get downtown.

Along the new road connecting the airport with the city, I spotted the first, but certainly not the last, construction site of my trip. The city was obviously racing against the clock to prepare for its moment on the world stage, but to be fair to Athens, the same could be said of every urban host of the Olympics in recent history.

My weakness for luxury hotels brought me to the five-star Hotel Grande Bretagne on Syntagma Square. I was lucky to arrive on the heels of a 14-month, $70 million restoration. This palatial hotel sitting across from Greece’s Parliament was the place to see and be seen during the first modern Olympics held in Athens in 1896. This year, it will host several delegations of national Olympic committees. While the guestrooms are appointed with every amenity imaginable, it is the common areas that truly make this hotel spectacular.

The Grande Bretagne’s rooftop restaurant has become one of the hottest eateries in town. Both the restaurant and its bar have stunning views of the Acropolis. For the price of a glass of wine (I have to admit that the Greek wine retsina is an acquired taste), this is the perfect venue to relax and contemplate the ancient wonder. Unfortunately, the rooftop pool at the Bretagne was not yet completed at the time of my visit. While it may not have a view, the Grande Bretagne’s exquisite spa more than makes up for it with a tranquil yet colorful setting, indoor saltwater pool and aromatherapy saunas.

The Grande Bretagne isn’t the only hotel that spent big bucks to prepare for the Olympic Games. The Athens Hilton underwent a $112 million renovation and also offers a rooftop pool and restaurant. In total, some 37 hotels in the Greater Athens area have been built or expanded in anticipation of the games.

Certainly, one of the most impressive improvements is the city’s clean and efficient new subway system. Music is piped into the stations, many of which feature exhibits displaying ancient artifacts discovered during construction. A handful of museums that were closed for renovations are now reopening, including the incredible National Archaeological Museum. A brand-new Acropolis Museum may not open before the Olympics, but promises to be a treat for future visitors.

Of course no journey to the Greek capital is complete without a visit to the Parthenon. I found the best time to go is early in the morning, in order to beat the heat and the crowds. By all means, leave plenty of time for the experience. Even the most jaded travelers can’t help but pause in amazement as they realize they are walking on the Acropolis. Just down the hill from the Acropolis is the Agora, the ancient marketplace of Athens built in 6 b.c. It also deserves a leisurely visit. The Agora was once the center of all civic activities in the ancient city. The main attraction is the Temple of Hephaestus, the best-preserved classical temple in Greece.

While the ancient ruins are certainly a major draw, shopping in Athens is also a popular diversion. For the most authentic of Athenian shopping experiences, I headed off to the Monastraki Flea Market. I planned my visit for a Sunday, when the market is liveliest. Offerings include everything from rare books to antiques to knock-off designer handbags. Bargaining is a must here. I found plenty of souvenirs — hand-woven rugs, olive oil soap and Greek worry beads — to bring back to the folks at home. Of course there are plenty of stores featuring Olympic mascots Phevos and Athena. At first I thought these Olympic characters were a bit odd — based on ancient Greek dolls, the characters have gigantic feet — but I got into the Olympic spirit and loaded up on pins, pens, T-shirts and stuffed toys for my friends and family.

As I walked around Athens, I could not help but notice the dozens and dozens of stray dogs roaming the streets. They tugged at my heartstrings so that I wanted to wrap up my leftover dinner for them. Abandoned animals are a heart-wrenching problem throughout Athens and the Greek islands. Only this year, as a result of pre-Olympics pressure, have the city and national governments begun to really tackle the problem. The Greeks have few public shelters for animals and the poisoning of homeless cats and dogs is common.

When I discussed the problem with a friend, he dubbed it “the real Greek tragedy.” There are Athenians who feel for the plight of the animals: I met shopkeepers, especially in the Plaka neighborhood, who put out bowls of food and water for the strays. Athens began a spay-and-release program this year, but animal welfare groups have criticized it as a meager first step. As I walked among homeless cats and dogs and the dirt and grime of construction sites, I thought that if Athenians really want to impress the world community, they might pay a little less attention to the shine of their new venues and show a little more compassion to their most helpless residents.

At the time of my visit, the great debate was whether Athens will be ready for the Aug. 13 opening of the Olympics. Foreigners I met were skeptical, but the natives expressed confidence. “They’ll get it done,” one hotel owner told me. “They have to, but it will be done the Greek way, which means it will all be ready the night before.” At press time, it looks as if that hotel owner might be right. The venues are expected to be completed just in time for the games, and tickets are still available for most events. Only the more expensive seats are left for the opening and closing ceremonies.

Even if time runs out before the finishing touches are complete, Athens has already undergone a remarkable transformation — good news whether you plan to take in the Olympics or wait to visit after things have quieted down. No doubt, the 2004 Olympics are historic for Athens. Even so, this year’s games represent but one short moment in the city’s long history.