Once upon a time, America was a veritable hotbed of watchmaking. The 1800s saw the rise of giants like Hamilton, Waltham, Illinois and Elgin, whose pocket watches of the period attract collectors to this day. The American watch industry occupies a different landscape today, though a number of companies still build exceptional timepieces. While some brands go out of their way to source or manufacture as many components in America as possible, one builds some of its movements from scratch, earning its watches the authentic title of Made in America.
The Doughboy Watch Co.
Now for something completely different. Philadelphia-based Doughboy Watch Co. tracks down and refurbishes old American pocket watches of all shapes and sizes and then converts the cases for wear as a trench watch. If you’re looking for something big and bold you just won’t see anywhere else, this is the way to go. Prices vary.
doughboywatchco.com
RGM Watch Co.
RGM truly pulls out all the stops. The 801-COE “Corps of Engineers” watch presents a beautiful throwback to the original World War I pocket watches issued to the Corps. It uses one of the brand’s three in-house, American-made calibers and a glass-fired enamel dial — a beautiful example of RGM’s passion for quality finishing and paying respect to historically significant watchmaking. Strap: $9,700; bracelet: $10,450.
rgmwatches.com
Niall
Niall continues to push to find new American watch component sources. A quick conversation with company co-founder Mike Wilson instantly reveals his obsession with American manufacturing. Each Niall case (including its American-made Gorilla Glass crystal) is manufactured stateside, with its movements sourced from Eterna in Switzerland. Blending simplicity and refinement, the Niall GMT remains a timeless classic. $5,500.
niallluxury.com
Kobold Expedition Tools
Kobold designs and manufactures all its own cases and uses trusted and reliable ETA Swiss movements often modified by the company’s master watchmaker to suit the design of the watch. There’s a reason Kobold enjoys a longstanding relationship with the Navy SEALS. Each Kobold is built to survive any rough and rugged adventure you can throw at it. Featuring a stainless steel case and domed, extra-thick sapphire crystal, the Soarway Diver Safari is water-resistant to 1,640 feet. $3,350.
koboldwatch.com
Shinola Detroit
A new watch with a healthy dose of Americana doesn’t have to cost you a few thousand dollars. Shinola takes an interesting approach to mass-market watchmaking, continuing to focus its efforts on the assembly of watches in Detroit. Credit where credit is due: It takes guts to set up shop the way Shinola has. Prices vary.
shinola.com
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