Italy’s leading port and a major commercial city, Genoa does not appear on most leisure itineraries. So when you have time to relax after hours, you’ll meet Genoese, not tourists. After work, they prefer a glass of wine, or aperitivo, to cocktails and hop from one wine bar to another, grazing on the complimentary appetizers as they imbibe. To blend in, order an Aperol spritz, similar to Campari and soda but lighter in alcohol. Or balance Aperol’s bitterness with Prosecco. In good weather, enjoy it overlooking the harbor at Oltremodo, on the deck of the ship Italia. Closer to the business center, Solidoc offers a long wine menu in the Doge’s Palace courtyard.

If there’s business on your after-5 agenda, you can find quieter places to sit and talk over a well-mixed drink. Sink into chic white leather sofas at sophisticated Muà, or step off Via Sestri into elegant Otello Café to converse with clients over a trendy cocktail. At nearby Dolce Vita Café, order a glass from a wine list of more than 100, although Friday’s DJ makes it less conducive to conversation.

Dinner is served late in Italy, so don’t expect locals to be ready until at least 8 p.m. Genoa’s restaurants specialize in local seafood, served simply but in surprisingly innovative ways, even in venerable osterie. Clients can’t help liking Osteria di San Matteo for its beautiful presentations, or Antica Osteria di Vico Palla, near the port, for atmosphere and seafood. Try the superb lobster dishes at Le Cantine Squarciafico — begin with their famous linguine all’astice. Near the Trade Fair, large and elegant Ippogrifo or tiny and equally elegant Le Perlage provide good choices for entertaining.

Genoa doesn’t lack for nightlife, but today’s hot spot may be toast next week, so ask locals or check out the concentration of clubs and bars between Piazza Sarzano and Via San Lorenzo. Dance with a sea view at Makò, a perennially favorite piano bar and disco. The music is easy house, R&B and revival and the crowd a mix of ages and nationalities. Just off Piazza delle Erbe, Genoa’s college nightlife central, club/theater La Claque features indie bands and cabaret shows. Louisiana Jazz Club attracts a more mature crowd for live jazz on Thursdays and Saturdays.

Genoa’s small but active LGBT community supports several popular clubs. Virgo Discoclub on Via Alfredo Carzino grooves until 5 a.m.; Diva on Piazza Tommaseo and La Cage on Via Sampierdarena offer other options.

Teatro Carlo Felice ranks among Italy’s finest opera houses, rebuilt after World War II bombings. Along with opera, expect ballet, symphony, jazz, even rock concerts in this state-of-the art venue.