The only metropolis in the world straddling two continents, Istanbul defies categorization. Sights, smells, sounds — all converge in glorious cacophony in the bridging of Europe and Asia along the Bosporus. Still called Constantinople by some and Stamboul by others, Istanbul received its official name with the founding of the Republic of Turkey in 1923 by Mustafa Kemal.

A pasha (general) in the Turkish army, Kemal resisted the Sultan and the allied forces after World War I in their drive to have Turkey accede to an American or British mandate. He retreated from then-occupied Istanbul and launched a three-year War of Independence. Hailed as Ataturk — father of the Turks — the nickname eventually became his surname. Ataturk is responsible for modern Turkey, carrying out drastic reforms that brought medieval Ottoman society into the 20th century. He abolished polygamy, granted women equal status with men before the law (which included the right to vote), separated government and religion and replaced the Arabic alphabet with the Latin alphabet for written Turkish. Fez and veil were outlawed, and European dress took their place. This marked the beginning of Turkey’s westernization. Still in pursuit of full membership in the European Union, Turkey aims to adopt the E.U.’s basic system of national law and regulation (the acquis communataire) by 2014.

Chosen by the E.U. as a European Capital of Culture for 2010, Turkey will have the opportunity to showcase its cultural life and development in the next year. For travelers who have experienced Istanbul, that culture is mesmerizing. For those who haven’t, wonders await. Minarets punctuate the memorable skyline of domes, towers and, increasingly, high-rises, as the Bosporus echoes the insistent call of the muezzin, broadcast on loudspeakers throughout the city five times a day. The call to prayer also broadcasts Istanbul’s Muslim heritage — if accepted into the E.U., Turkey will be its first Muslim member.

Bordered by eight countries (Bulgaria, Greece, Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Iran, Iraq and Syria), Turkey’s location is of strategic importance in bridging the Muslim world with Europe. A member of NATO since 1952, Turkey is the alliance’s vital eastern anchor, controlling the straits leading from the Black Sea into the Mediterranean. In the recent Georgia crisis, Turkey found itself playing the role of mediator. It is also currently engaged in active diplomacy with Syria, the Middle East, Armenia and the Caucasus in efforts to advance regional stability.

Traditionally an agrarian economy — agriculture accounts for 10.5 percent of the gross national product and provides about 26 percent of the nation’s jobs — Turkey has surged ahead as a textile and ready-to-wear supplier to the European Union in recent years. It currently ranks second only to China in these exports and counts Germany, England and Italy as its biggest trading partners. Fashion is thriving, and many boutiques in Istanbul feature local designers, competing favorably with international names in the chic designer shopping streets of the Nisantasi. Other significant growth sectors include iron and steel, machine production, mining, automotive and electronics. Turkey’s economy grew an average of 6 percent per year from 2002 through 2007 — one of the highest sustained rates of growth in the world. Figures for 2008 are expected to show a growth of 5.5 percent, even with the global economic downturn. As an international commercial center, Istanbul contributes 40 percent of Turkey’s budget, 40 percent of Turkey’s total industry and 45 percent of the total tax base.

Istanbul’s population now exceeds 12 million, with 50 percent under 40 years of age — 51 percent male and 49 percent female. It’s no wonder clubs, restaurants and boutiques are evolving weekly. From the ancient cobblestone streets of Sultanahmet to an ever-expanding urban push across the Bosporus into Uskudar and Kadikoy, Istanbul is forging ahead as Europe’s — and, increasingly, Asia’s — most exciting city.

LODGING

FOUR SEASONS ISTANBUL AT SULTANAHMET
Just steps from the Topkapi Palace in the ancient Sultanahmet section, the hotel’s 65 guestrooms and suites frame an open courtyard in what was once a prison for political dissidents. Prisoners would not recognize the extravagantly designed rooms, each with a fabulous view. Architecturally true to tradition, the paint was applied as in Ottoman times, with a spatula.

The newly opened sister property, the Four Seasons Bosphorus (a few miles away near the Dolmabahce Palace) shares its considerable amenities; guests can even divide their time between the two hotels to experience different sections of the city. Don’t lift a finger — the staff will even pack you up and move you. $$$$
FOUR SEASONS ISTANBUL AT SULTANAHMET
Tevkifhane Sokak 1
tel 90 212 638 8200
http://www.fourseasonshotel.com/Istanbul

HOTEL IBRAHIM PASHA
Staying at this tiny boutique hotel across the street from the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art is more like staying at the home of a tasteful designer friend. Many of the 16 guestrooms face the Blue Mosque, just a block away. It is a treat to lie on your crisp, white linens and stare at the mosque lit up at night — or head up to the roof for a minaret and Bosporus panorama while enjoying a glass of raki, Turkey’s potent anise-seed brandy. For breakfast, eat family style in the library at a big farmers’ table or in the kitchen. The resident golden Labrador retriever will show you the way. $$
HOTEL IBRAHIM PASHA
Terzihane Sokak 5, Sultanahmet
tel 90 212 518 0394
http://www.ibrahimpasha.com

W ISTANBUL
Located in the old Akaretler row houses built in 1875 to house the workers for the Dolmabahce Palace, the new W is the chain’s first hotel in Europe. Opened in May 2008, it is already gaining a following with international travelers and Istanbulites alike — perhaps in part because of Spice Market, the elegant restaurant on the roof that serves a creative interpretation of Asian food with a French twist. Not only does the hotel allow pets, it even has a pet turndown service. Though not exactly in the center of everything, it soon will be as Istanbul spreads out. $$$$
W ISTANBUL
Süleyman Seba Cad 22, Besiktas
tel 90 212 381 2121
http://www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels

DINING

360 ISTANBUL
Named for its commanding circular view over the Bosporus, 360 remains Istanbul’s hot spot for the trendy set. Just off Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu, it has a rooftop summer terrace bar where locals parade their stylish fashions. South African chef Mike Norman has created a fusion menu with most items mezze-sized. A sampling of suggestions includes grilled sardines in grape leaves; polenta-crusted calamari; a Bollywood pizza (with chicken tandoori) or a local pizza, with selcuk, olives and goat cheese. Post-dinner, enjoy the lounge with DJ or live music while sipping a Bomb Baby (vodka, mint, cardamom and fresh watermelon). Weekends it becomes Club360, starting at midnight. $$$
360 ISTANBUL
Istiklal Caddesi, Misir Apartmani Beyoglu
tel 90 212 251 1042

CHANGA
Ever wanted to stand over your chef’s shoulder to watch him cook? You can, at Changa, where patrons walk on the glass ceiling over the kitchen. Located on four floors in one of the city’s only Art Nouveau buildings, just off Taksim Square, this is also one of Istanbul’s most glamorous restaurants. For starters, try the hickory-smoked red mullet and pomegranate salsa in chilled red turnip soup. Go on to wasabi and salmon tortellini with sautéed porcini and creamy lemongrass sauce. Dessert is a toss-up — green tea Champagne jelly with passionfruit cream; hazelnut croquant and pineapple cloud; or Turkish coffee ice cream, biscotti and bitter almond liqueur. Turkish meets Pacific Rim. $$$$
CHANGA
Siraselviler Caddesi 47, Taksim
tel 90 212 251 7064
http://www.changa-istanbul.com

RUMELI CAFÉ
Located in an old print works close to the Blue Mosque, Rumeli Café is a pleasant spot for lunch or dinner. Sit outside and watch the fascinating street scene in the old Sultanahmet while enjoying traditional Turkish food.  The helpful waiters will guide you in deciding which area of Turkey’s cuisine you would like to sample — perhaps borek (spiced ground meat with pine nuts) or imam bayaldi (puréed eggplant with grilled lamb and tomato sauce). Salads are large and remarkably fresh. $$$
RUMELI CAFÉ
Divanyolu Caddesi Ticarethane Sokak 8, Sultanahmet
tel 90 212 512 00 08

Checking in with Eva Ziegler
Global Brand Leader of W Hotels Worldwide & Le Méridien

Global Traveler: Why did you choose Turkey as the location for the first W Hotel in Europe?

Eva Ziegler: Our goal is to open W Hotels in vibrant, dynamic, primary cities and resorts around the world. Istanbul is a great example, with a thriving local economy as well as its strategic location, combining Europe with Asia. As W continues to expand globally, we will open W Hotels in other dynamic cities including London, Paris, Barcelona, Doha, Dubai, Bangkok and Shanghai in the next three years.

GT: Why did the W choose to go into this particular area (Akaretler) of Istanbul?

EZ: W strives to provide insider access to a world of “wow” while providing a cutting-edge lifestyle experience. The redevelopment of this district made it the perfect location. W had a unique opportunity to become the centerpiece of the Ottoman Row Houses, one of the most significant renovation projects ever completed and opened for public use in Turkey. The renovation includes high-end fashion stores like Marc Jacobs, Chloe and Jimmy Choo as well as first-rate cafés and restaurants and avant-garde nightlife hot spots — a perfect area to showcase W’s lifestyle experience.

GT: How did the names for guestroom classes — such as Wonderful Room and Spectacular Room — come about?

EZ: W Hotels is a hotel category buster, a brand that has revolutionized the industry and established itself as an iconic lifestyle brand. The lobby became the Living Room, the pool became WET, and over-the-top suites became WOWs, thus turning the ordinary into something fun and whimsical.

GT: Your restaurant, Spice Market, gives a French twist to Asian street food. How is that being accepted in Istanbul?

EZ: Istanbul is where East meets West and Asia meets Europe. Like the city, Spice Market and its world-renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten infuse many different cultures, tastes and experiences, served family style, making the restaurant a highly sought-after dining destination known for unique, world-class culinary offerings not previously found in Istanbul.

GT: Tell us about the design of the hotel and the guestrooms.

EZ: W Istanbul combines traditional Ottoman style with the innovative design and signature elements of the W brand. Designed to stimulate the senses, the hotel has a Neo-Romantic feel, with elements like crystals, jewels, carved stones and dramatic drapes used throughout the public spaces and guestrooms. The hotel’s WOW and Extreme WOW Suites offer spectacular views, luxurious amenities and plenty of space, perfect for socializing or simply escaping.

DIVERSIONS

Istanbul offers so much to see, you might feel like a whirling dervish trying to take it all in. Fortunately, the big three to see are steps from each other: The Blue Mosque, Haghia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace dominate the ancient Sultanahmet section of the city.

Start at the Blue Mosque (tel 90 212 518 1319) to admire the blue Iznik tiles which give the mosque its name. Legend has it that the sultan asked for a minaret topped with altin (gold), but the architect misunderstood and thought he said alti (six). These soaring minarets and the many cascading semi-domes that surround the great dome make this Istanbul’s most recognizable landmark. Across the street is the Haghia Sofia, the Church of Holy Wisdom (tel 90 212 522 1750). The original church burned down in 404; the rebuilt church was then destroyed in riots in 532 and built again by Emperor Justinian in 537. The conversion of the church into a mosque began in 1453, but by 1934 it was turned into a museum. Visit the weeping pillar inside, where Justinian is said to have laid his aching head. He was instantly cured, and now people line up to put their thumb in the well-worn hole, turn in a circle and make their wish. Save some energy and half a day for the Topkapi Palace (Babi-l Humayun Caddesi, tel 90 212 512 0480, http://www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr), the sultan’s palace and treasure trove.

Stuffed with jewels (including the dagger from the film Topkapi), delicate embroideries, fine porcelain, rare paintings and manuscripts — and even some hairs said to be from the prophet Mohammed’s beard — the palace was not only the sultan’s home but also the seat of government for 400 years. Don’t miss the harem, the kitchens and the imperial wardrobe, with more than 3,000 elaborately embroidered royal robes.

If you have any energy left, go across the street to the Yerebatan Sarayi (Yerebatan Caddesi 13, tel 90 212 522 1259), the Byzantine underground cistern where James Bond roamed in From Russia with Love. Then walk up a few blocks and collapse on the heated marble platform under the wide dome in the Cemberlitas Hamam Turkish Baths (Vezirhan Caddesi 8, tel 90 212 522 7974, http://www.cemberlitashamami.com.tr) operating daily since 1584. Men and women use separate areas.

Try your bargaining skills in the hundreds of stalls that make up the Grand Bazaar. Though shopping can be pricier than many shops on the street, it is a sensory delight to wander among the colorful rugs, lamps, jewelry, leather goods and antiques. For more color and dizzying aromas, continue over to the Spice Market, in the Egyptian Market, just a few blocks away.

A note of carpet caution: Kilims (the most basic form of carpet) have been made in Turkey for around 8,000 years. There are more carpet stores here than you may ever see anywhere else. Do your homework before you go if you are considering buying one. You will most certainly get something unique and, if you bargain well, a great deal.

INFO TO GO
Ataturk International Airport (IST) is about 17 miles from downtown, on the European side. A taxi into the city costs about $25 and takes 20–30 minutes, depending on the time of day and amount of traffic. Visit http://www.tourismturkey.org or http://istanbul.usconsulate.gov.

Just the Facts
Time Zone: GMT +2
Phone Code: 90 Turkey, 212 Istanbul
Currency: Turkish lira
Entry/Exit Requirements: Visas are required for U.S. citizens; obtain three-month visas at entry points. You must obtain a visa in advance for longer visits.
Official Language: Turkish (written in the Latin alphabet). English is fairly widely spoken; it is a mandatory subject in Turkish schools.
Key Industries: Textiles, clothing, leather, jewelry, agricultural products, electronics, mining, machinery and tourism