Drifting in and out of awareness, I’m sitting in a steam room overlooking the Mweelrea Mountains in Ireland. Karen comes to lead me to the small candlelit room where the scent of rosewood oil gently envelopes me. I’m eagerly anticipating my first treatment at the Delphi Mountain Resort & Spa, a rustic lodge cradled in the mountains of County Galway in western Ireland.

“You’ve never had a hot stone massage before?” Karen asks in a soft whisper usually reserved for church.

“Nope,” I confess.

“You’ll be amazed.”

And so I was.

Amazed not only with the spa treatment, but with the entire refreshing experience of traveling in western Ireland. I flew into Shannon (snn), a tiny airport that handles half of the country’s international flights. Dublin in the east handles the rest. The 1960s-era airport is located in a town of about 12,000 designed around the facility, so it’s easy-in and easy-out. Plus, you’ll save time on the trip back because travelers returning to the States go through immigration before leaving Ireland.

My plans called for travel two hours south of Shannon to County Kerry — famous for the Ring of Kerry — and one to two hours west and north of the airport to Connemara and an area known as the Burren. My assignment — somebody had to do it — was to get a firsthand look at several new destination spas and first-class hotels.

Ireland in recent years has evolved into a sophisticated tourist destination. It’s part of the phenomenon known as the “Celtic Tiger” — the emergence of Ireland as an economic power — and its growing stature as part of the European Union.

Old Meets New

The best example of Ireland’s newfound taste for luxury and pampering, perhaps, is one of its most famous and historic hotels, the Park Hotel Kenmare in Kenmare, County Kerry. Although it’s held a five-star rating since the 1980s, the owners decided a few years ago to add a new dimension — something previously absent in this part of the country: They invested about $6.1 million for the design and construction of an exclusive, state-of-the-art spa notched into a limestone hill adjacent to the hotel. Named Sámas (pronounced Saw-vas), a Gaelic word meaning “indulgence of the senses,” the spa formally opened in February.

While the Park itself is exquisitely appointed, dark with 18th and 19th century antiques and old-world furnishings, Sámas features modern Asian design. Entering the spa, you’re swept from one world to another. The scent of eucalyptus (a mélange of three varieties) stirs the senses while the gentle trickle of falling water serenades the soul.

The locker room, although it’s more like a plush lounge, features green ceramic tiles-heated, of course-frosted glass and blond wood. You feel more like you’re in a high-rise hotel in Tokyo than in rural Ireland. After donning a robe, spa guests are escorted to the “thermal suite” — an aroma steam room, rock sauna and shower featuring three types of spray: a monsoon, with water shooting from the sides; a warm, drenching tropical rain from above (my favorite); and a cool Irish mist. The men’s and women’s thermal suites are separate. Instead of a sauna, the women’s side features a laconium, which is like a sauna with less intense temperatures.

Large windows invite nature inside. But you become even closer to nature when you step outside and into the whirlpool, heated year-round to 102°f and featuring five different types of massage jets. Men and women share the same whirlpool, which overlooks evergreens, Kenmare Bay and the mountains. Electronic sensors detect when to start the powerful jets designed to soothe your back or shoulders or just provide all-around jet action. My favorite was a hooklike faucet that drills water onto your shoulders, easing tension like a jackhammer breaking up concrete.

“All this,” I think as I relax into the moment, “and I haven’t even had my treatment yet.”

Serenity Now

Although the spa industry in Ireland is still in its infancy, the spas I visited all provided cutting-edge facilities and treatment selections. The Park Hotel Kenmare even offers couples’ treatment facilities. Both the Park and the Delphi take measures to distance guests from the stress of the “real world” — that’s a good thing. Although the Park provides televisions in its guest-rooms, Delphi does not. Neither offers in-room Internet access.

John Brennan, general manager at the Park Hotel Kenmare, recalled one u.s. executive who, upon arrival for a five-day visit, requested Internet access in his room.

“He said, ‘But John, I get 300 emails a day.’ I said, ‘Fine. You’ll have 1,500 when you go home.’”

A lot of thought goes into creating an atmosphere that amounts to just the right combination of relaxation and pampering. The menus at both the Park and the Delphi do denote some selections that are particularly healthful, but at their heart the menus are a sinful collection of the finest Ireland has to offer. Serenity walks through tropical gardens and yoga classes are de rigueur.

As Kenneth, a yoga and T’ai Chi instructor at the Delphi points out during class, “You’re in touch with the earth. Exhale like the wind over the mountain.”

Pure Contentment

Back at Sámas, my therapist, Melissa, escorts me to a treatment room, named Sherky after an Irish island, offers herbal tea and begins the spa’s signature “foot ritual.” Bathing my feet in mineral salts, bath oil and crystals in a tub filled with stones, she massages up to my knees to relax me and get rid of negative energy, then wraps each foot in a towel.

Next it’s on to the big show. Sámas offers dozens of treatments-from seven different types of massage to eight different body wraps-but I settle on a facial. As I recline, Melissa warns me that she’s about to hit a chime to release negative energy. The room, about 10 feet by 10 feet in size, is dark save for a blue neon light illuminating one wall and a tiny candle on the floor in one corner. The bed is heated.

I settle in for an hour of pure contentment. As I drift in and out of consciousness, Melissa deftly cleanses, scrubs and applies cream after cream to my face, neck, shoulders, hands, arms and scalp. Every once in a while I feel a cool herbal spritz fall over my entire torso. It’s so quiet I can hear the twist of every bottle opening, the creams squirting out of their tubes and the glug of oils flowing from their bottles. When it’s done, I’m surprised an hour has passed. I admit to falling asleep.

“It’s a good sign,” Melissa says. “It shows you’re relaxed.”

While Melissa gets ready for her next appointment, I’m entering my third hour in the spa. I’m shown to the relaxation area, a glass room with eight reclining beds, each with a set of earphones and magazines. I’m told to rest for an hour. I could get used to this.

Lodging

Whether you’re looking for a spa vacation or just a relaxing getaway in the west or southwest of Ireland, you won’t have to look very hard to find just the right accommodations. Several destination spas have opened in recent years, providing a choice of style and scenery. All these high-end properties provide first-class cuisine and are open at least from March to October, though the season in Ireland has been getting longer, and most properties feature winter dates. Unless noted, rates include breakfast.

Park Hotel Kenmare
A five-star Irish mainstay renowned for its old-world charm, the 46-room Park Hotel has undergone something of a transformation in the last year. The owners built an adjoining destination spa open only to hotel guests. The Sámas spa stands in stark contrast to the antique-laden hotel. The spa’s Asian-inspired design features natural materials and large glass walls providing a view of Kenmare Bay and the surrounding mountains. The basic spa treatment (about $150) lasts a minimum three hours. Back in the hotel, you may feel a little like royalty, both for the service and the surroundings. The hotel, located next to a golf course and just steps away from the quaint shops and homegrown eateries of downtown Kenmare, features a renowned restaurant, 12 acres of tropical gardens and in-room televisions. During peak season, rates start at about $250 per person.
Park Hotel Kenmare
Kenmare, County Kerry
Ireland
tel 353 64 41200, fax 353 64 41402
www.parkkenmare.com

Sheen Falls Lodge

Another five-star hotel in Kenmare, Sheen Falls offers bright, spacious and modern accommodations just a 10-minute drive from downtown. The 75-room property, an 18th century fishing lodge, was opened in 1991 after a Dutch shipping magnate bought and renovated it. He personally purchased many of the sculptures and artwork that decorate the spacious, coral-colored corridors. A presidential suite was added last year, and the 300-acre property features a health and fitness center — complete with a full range of spa treatments and an indoor pool, its own stables and clay pigeon shooting for the real outdoorsman. Televisions are included in every room. Its main attraction, however, could be the 15 miles of private fishing rights along the Sheen River. Enjoy the sounds of live piano in the dining room overlooking the falls. Peak rates start at about $500 per room and do not include breakfast.
Sheen Falls Lodge
Kenmare, County Kerry
Ireland
tel 353 64 41600, fax 353 64 41386
www.sheenfallslodge.ie

Delphi Mountain Resort & SpaD
The Delphi (del-fee) is a destination all its own. About one hour and 15 minutes northwest of Galway, the hotel is part Colorado lodge, part new age European spa. The rustic spa area — free to guests anytime — overlooks the Mweelrea Mountains at the northern edge of Connemara. Open since April 2001, the 22-room property combines the relaxation of the spa with the invigorating elements of a “Great Outdoors” program featuring 25 activities such as rock climbing and canoeing on the property’s 300 acres. The lodge’s design evinces a prairie-style influence, with its undulating roof said to echo the surrounding mountains. Natural stone and wood are used plentifully, and hardwood floors add character to the guestrooms, which do not feature TVs. Peak rates start at about $200 per person for double occupancy, but increase considerably for weekends, special programs and treatments.
Delphi Mountain Resort & Spa
Leenane, County Galway
Ireland
tel 353 95 42987, fax 353 95 42303
www.delphiescape.com

Gregans Castle Hotel
Not what most Americans think of when they hear the word “castle,” Gregans is more of a country manor in western County Clare, famous for the barren region known as the Burren and for such tourist sites as the Cliffs of Moher and Lahinch Golf Club. If you want the ultimate quiet getaway, the four-star Gregans is for you. There are no room numbers — each room gets an Irish name — and no TVs. What is there to do? Rows of old paperbacks are available in nooks all over the 21-room hotel, and piles of magazines beckon you from your room and the lobby. There are boxes of board games — Hocus Pocus, backgammon and others. Or, if you prefer, just sit in the drawing room’s large bay window and watch the sun roll over the bald mountains. Floral pattern curtains hang on the windows, and lace graces the side tables, home to the kind of old black-and-white photos you might find in a trunk at your grandma’s house. There is no spa at the hotel, and you can’t walk to shops or restaurants. But it’s serene. It’s cozy. And you just may forget where you are. Rates start at about $250 a night for double occupancy.
Gregans Castle Hotel
Ballyvaughan, County Clare
Ireland
tel 353 65 7077005, fax 353 65 7077111
www.gregans.ie

Radisson SAS Hotel
Not ready for total seclusion just yet? The four-star Radisson in bustling Galway may be just right for you. Opened three years ago, the 217-room downtown hotel added a Spirit One Spa last year. You’ll find the spa on the hotel’s lower level, where, in addition to typical spa features, you can relax on “the beach” — a room full of sand providing a dawn-to-dusk light cycle in about 30 minutes — or take all of the pressure off of your joints and muscles in a dry flotation bed. A gym, pool and outdoor hot tub overlook Lough Atalia, a body of water adjacent to beautiful Galway Bay. Its lobby buzzing with activity, the hotel has a businesslike, busy feel. Rates start at about $200 a night, not including breakfast.
Radisson SAS Hotel
Lough Atalia Road, Galway
Ireland
tel 353 91 538300, fax 353 91 538380
www.radissonsas.com

Dining

Thanks to a rising economy and influences from other European countries, Irish dining has come a long way in the last two decades. The jokes about Irish cuisine being an oxymoron are still around, but fading fast as many high-end chefs make their marks.

“The last 15 years, there’s been a huge revolution in Irish cooking,” says Pat Gath, owner of d’Arcy’s restaurant in Kenmare, one of more than 40 eateries in this tourist town of 1,200 people.

The revolution is evident at all of the four- and five-star hotels, which publicize their chefs the way New York and Paris restaurants do. Lamb and seafood are the specialties in the finer establishments, but you can’t go wrong with a stout and pub grub, as they call it, at any of the countless pubs both in the large cities and in the countryside. And, with the emphasis placed on spas and healthy living, many of the chefs at the destination spas are marking their menus with healthier, spa-inspired offerings, including vegetarian selections.

If you start or finish your trip at Shannon, you won’t want to miss the medieval castle banquet at Bunratty Castle (tel 353 61 360788), just 10 minutes from the airport. You get dinner (but don’t count on eating utensils), wine and entertainment in the 1425 castle’s banquet hall. And while the two shows nightly draw a fair number of tourists, even the locals frequent this medieval treat. If you’re hiking around the Burren and in need of some energy, don’t miss Sheedy’s (www.sheedys.com), a restaurant and country house hotel. Proprietors John and Martina Sheedy operate the establishment, with John serving as chef. The crab salad comes highly recommended.

Make no mistake: You never have to go very far to find a pub in Ireland. And the pub is, without question, the center of social life for most Irish, men and women alike. They congregate in pubs both for lunch and after work, alone or with friends. Try a stout (Guinness really does taste better in Ireland, but Murphy’s is another good choice). Don’t be too hasty, though. Resist grabbing the pint after the bartender pours it and sets it on the bar. He lets it settle before topping it off again. Another important note: Smoking is no longer permitted in Irish pubs and restaurants. That may be a negative or a positive, depending on your viewpoint.

Day Trips

Had enough of the spa and the great food? Kerry, Connemara and the Burren all offer plenty of natural beauty and golf outings. Let’s start in the south, with the famous Ring of Kerry and the Beara Peninsula. One under-the-radar trip you might entertain is to Derreen Gardens, in Lauragh on Beara Way. The gardens were begun in the 19th century, when Lord Lansdowne made his summer home here and brought in exotic plants from all over the world. They endure today, and the lord’s descendants still live on the property. Call ahead to make sure the gardens are open (tel 353 64 83588), and be prepared to pay about $6 for adults on the honor system.

Another way to experience the area’s beautiful scenery is to take a cruise down Kenmare Bay, where you’ll see seals and plenty of spectacular views (www.seafariireland.com).

Several hours away back in County Clare, no trip to Ireland would be complete without the striking views afforded from the famous Cliffs of Moher. It’s about $5 per car when you exit the lot, and it’s well worth it. It’s a 10-minute walk up to a 19th century tower house built for picnics. There’s also a walk you can take at your own risk, but beware. The wind is strong, and there’s nothing protecting you from the edge of the cliff.

Near the cliffs, you might play a round of golf at Lahinch Golf Club (www.lahinchgolf.com) or take a walking tour of the Burren (www.gateway-to-the-burren.com).

Just off the coast from the cliffs are the Aran Islands, famous for their namesake sweaters. And if you head north to Connemara, don’t miss Kylemore Abbey and its gardens. The castle, built in 1868 and now the home to Irish Benedictine nuns and a girls boarding school, is open to the public (www.kylemoreabbey.com) and will transport you to another era.

info to go

About half of the international flights into Ireland arrive in Shannon (SNN) in the western part of the country. Aer Lingus operates flights into Shannon from New York (JFK), Boston (BOS), Chicago (ORD), Los Angeles (LAX) and Baltimore/Washington (BWI); Delta, US Airways and Continental also offer service into Shannon. Just minutes after you land, you’ll find yourself basking in the quintessential Irish countryside. Rental cars are available, but you’ll have to drive on the left and many of the country roads are narrow and curvy. Also note: Most of the rental cars available feature manual transmissions, so request an automatic at the time of reservation. The best place to start your planning is www.tourismireland.com