FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Vintage South Africa

by Richard Newton

Aug 1, 2018
August 2018

IT’S AFRICA, THOUGH NOT AS you’d imagine it. Lush valleys fringed by mountains. Scenic towns and villages of white, Dutch-style houses. A Mediterranean climate of hot, dry summers and cool, damp winters. And vineyards, lots of vineyards. Welcome to the Boland — the Highland — of South Africa’s Western Cape.

Thanks to the abundance of vineyards, this clement region is more commonly known as the Winelands, in turn subdivided into a patchwork of districts familiar to wine buffs the world over from bottle labels: Paarl, Constantia, Franschhoek, Klein Karoo and — most famous of all — Stellenbosch.

Wine has been produced in this region since the 17th century. Although there have been challenges along the way, few have been as severe as the current three-year drought, which left nearby Cape Town almost entirely without running water and also affected the grape harvest, expected to be 15 percent below average this year.

Ironically, the harsh conditions are likely to make for an unusually good vintage. The current extremes of temperature add flavor to the grapes, while the lack of rain reduces the threat from pests and disease. For connoisseurs, 2018 is shaping up as an exceptionally good year for South African wine.

You can taste it for yourself by taking the wine route through Stellenbosch, just a 45-minute drive from Cape Town. Dozens of wineries open to the public for tours and, more importantly, wine tasting. Many also offer accommodation, which overcomes the tricky issue of selecting the designated driver. Alternatively, join an organized coach tour out of Cape Town or Stellenbosch. With so many wineries competing for visitors, most expanded beyond standard tours and tastings to offer additional attractions.

One of the oldest estates is Spier Wine Farm, established in 1692 and currently owned by the billionaire Dick Enthoven, who also owns Nando’s fast food chain. Located a 15-minute drive southwest of Stellenbosch, Spier occupies an area of about 2,700 acres, which visitors can explore by Segway. In addition, the farm maintained an eagle rescue center since 2001 and offers the chance to see these magnificent birds of prey in flight and even to handle them. The dancing barn owls are a particular highlight.

A wine tasting flight

A wine tasting flight © SOHADISZNO | DREAMSTIME.COM

The main attraction remains the wine tasting. At Spier a fee of approximately $3 (in some other wineries, tasting is free) includes three signature wines and two premier wines. Children are catered to with a grape juice tasting.

Tastings of food and wine pairings have become a recent trend among the wineries. At Spier you can taste the wine in combination with artisan chocolate. At the Avontuur Estate, wines are paired with fudge and nougat. Sample wine at Somerbosch alongside the homemade red wine ice cream. And Delheim offers wine tasting in combination with wild mushrooms.

The Delaire Graff Estate, owned by diamond tycoon Laurence Graff, occupies a spectacular position above the Helshoogte Pass, with clear-day views across to distant Table Mountain. While many estates are child-friendly, Delaire Graff’s sideline attractions are more grown-up, centering on a spa, a world-class art collection (including a famous painting, Chinese Girl, by Vladimir Tretchikoff) and four boutiques (including one selling diamonds).

Tasting at Delaire Graff takes place in a dedicated copper-roofed wine lounge. For wine newbies, there are wine tutors on hand to steer you through the experience, from whites to reds to rosés to sparkling wines.

Back on the family-friendly route, Blaauwklippen Vineyards (another of the original 17th-century estates) has a wealth of diversions for children, including pony rides, habituated goats and alpacas and a jungle gym. Every Sunday the estate holds a family market that features a range of stalls offering food, arts and crafts and antiques. Tastings at Blaauwklippen usually feature five chosen wines which can be paired with macarons, chocolate or canapés.

Art Institute in Stellenbosch Old Town

Art Institute in Stellenbosch Old Town © KTREE | DREAMSTIME.COM

DeMorgenzon Estate, 20 minutes west of Stellenbosch, is one of the most eco-friendly of all the wineries (though most have dedicated environmental programs). Approximately 10 percent of the estate has been set aside for the restoration of one of the world’s most endangered habitats, the Renosterveld, dominated by a unique shrub, the renosterbos (“rhinoceros bush” — before the vineyards, rhinos flourished here). The estate’s vineyards are painstakingly tended; recorded Baroque music plays among the vines during the day to aid the growing process. The DeMorgenzon tasting room is open every day 10 a.m.–5 p.m.

With so many wineries to visit, the historic university town of Stellenbosch is all too easy to overlook, which is a shame because it’s an attraction in its own right. The town is full of remarkably preserved Cape Dutch, Georgian, Regency and Victorian architecture. The Village Museum, a complex of restored houses, provides an overview of the different styles. The living essence of Stellenbosch can be enjoyed by taking a stroll along leafy Dorp Street, lined with historic buildings housing quirky shops and cafés.

As ever in this region, you’re never far from the next alcohol tasting. Just outside of town is Van Ryn’s Distillery and Brandy Cellar. Tours, which should be booked in advance through the company website, include the chance to sample various brandies. As with all the tasting opportunities in and around Stellenbosch, be sure to pace yourself. Overindulgence could impair your memories of this unique and beautiful corner of Africa. Moderation adds to the glow.

Stellenbosch Info to Go

International flights arrive at Cape Town International Airport, 10 miles east of downtown Cape Town and 18 miles west of Stellenbosch. Most visitors combine a tour of the Winelands with a stay in Cape Town. You can get to Stellenbosch by self-drive (which, of course, restricts the amount of wine you can taste) or by bus tour; several companies run guided group tours from Cape Town. The downside is you’ll only get to visit the wineries on the itinerary. Perhaps the best option is to self-drive and to overnight at a winery or two, enabling you to fully participate in the afternoon tastings.

Where to Stay in Stellenbosch

DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE “The vineyard in the sky” has four separate lodges available to rent, each accommodating two to four people. One features an estate view, the others overlook the spectacular valley. Helshoogte Pass, Stellenbosch $$$$

SPIER HOTEL Set within the estate of the same name, the 153 rooms are housed within a village-like cluster of buildings. Spier Wine Farm, R310 Baden Powell Drive, Stellenbosch $$$$

THE STELLENBOSCH HOTEL One of the best options in the town of Stellenbosch, the hotel occupies a lovely 19thcentury Dutch building within walking distance of the main attractions. Corner of Dorp and Andringa streets, Stellenbosch $$$

Restaurants in Stellenbosch

BASIC BISTRO Pastas, sandwiches and burgers if you want, but for some local flavor, try the Cape Malay chicken curry. 31 Church St., Stellenbosch $$

DELAIRE GRAFF RESTAURANT Rated one of the region’s best restaurants, the sophisticated menu incorporates local, seasonal ingredients. Delaire Graff Estate, Helshoogte Pass, Stellenbosch $$$$

MONT MARIE Chef Pieter Vlok conjures a fusion of global influences “with a South African personality.” Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Blaauwklippen Road, Stellenbosch $$$

Introducing

FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Feature
Dec 14, 2019

Four Reasons You Should Go to Taipei’s Pride Parade

In May this year, Taiwan became the first Asian country to legalize same-sex marriage. In celebration, Taipei’s annual Pride Parade was especially festive, with 170,000–250,000 people in attendance — a record number for what was already the biggest pride parade in Asia.

Adventure of a Lifetime with Volvo

Looking for a truly unique travel experience and considering a new vehicle? The Volvo Overseas Delivery Program is the perfect solution to create your own adventure of a lifetime. Volvo allows you to custom order your new automobile tailored to fit your needs and desires. They will fly you to Sweden to pick up your Volvo so you can drive and explore Scandinavia and Europe on your terms for up to two weeks.

News
Dec 14, 2019

New Four Seasons Property Planned for New Orleans

Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts plans to open a new hotel and private residences in New Orleans in late 2020. The first Four Seasons property in New Orleans is slated to open inside the World Trade Center, adjacent to Ernest N. Memorial Convention Center. The World Trade Center is currently undergoing renovations, with plans including a new podium and public spaces. The hotel plans feature four food and beverage outlets, retail space, a spa, rooftop pool and meeting and event spaces.

Athens: A city that charms its guests and stirs their emotions

The city took its name from Athena, goddess of wisdom, strategy and war, and protector of the city. The financial, political and administrative center of the country and an all-powerful city-state in antiquity, Athens is a major center of culture. A visit to the first-ever museum dedicated to Byzantium, a stroll around the National Garden and a trip to the Olympeion archaeological site will take you back through time.

Daily
Dec 14, 2019

New InterContinental Yokohama Property Opens

InterContinental Yokohama Pier 8 opened as the second InterContinental property in Yokohama earlier this fall. The property, with its 173 guestrooms and suites, provides a relaxing atmosphere away from the hubbub of the city with views of the waterfront.

News
Dec 13, 2019

American Airlines Launches Mobile App Passport Scanning

American Airlines now provides a passport-scanning feature on its mobile app. American Airlines is the first airline to offer a service of this kind. The passport chip-scanning feature transmits passport information to the airline, so passengers do not need a customer service agent to recheck their passports when arriving at the airport for international flights.

Goway Offers Travelers Journey of a Lifetime

Since 1970, Goway Travel has been committed to providing customized travel experiences for world travelers. Few things are better evidence of this commitment than being awarded the 2019 Trazees award for Favorite Tour Operator. Goway Travel heartily thanks the readers of Trazee Travel for this honor and for their confidence in Goway’s work in creating travel memories that’ll last a lifetime.

Daily
Dec 13, 2019

JW Marriott Debuts in the Maldives

JW Marriott Maldives Resort & Spa opened on Vagaru Island, part of the Shaviyani atoll in the Maldives, last month.