Despite its location just six miles off the coast of Puerto Rico, Vieques is still relatively unknown as a vacation destination, even by frequent travelers to the Caribbean. The locals — and travelers who want to keep its unspoiled charms to themselves — aim to keep it that way.

Shaped sort of like Bermuda — long and skinny at 21 miles by five miles — the island boasts a national wildlife refuge that encompasses coral reefs, beaches and mangrove wetlands. There are also several endangered species on the island, including a Caribbean West Indian manatee, the brown pelican and four species of turtles. With any luck, the secluded beauty of the island will not be endangered as it moves into the mainstream of Caribbean tourism.

Home to just 10,000 residents, Vieques remains relatively quiet — even in high season. History shows the Arawak tribe as the original inhabitants, but through the centuries European settlers and profiteering pirates left their mark on the island. Annexed by Puerto Rico in the mid- 19th century, Vieques today is a U.S. territory.

If the name of the island seems familiar, it may be because in the 1940s the U.S. Navy appropriated a large chunk of it to create a 25,000-acre bombing range/military base. By 1999 island residents, fed up with enduring the disruption and sparked by the bombing-related death of a civilian, initiated a resistance effort.

In a statement before the U.S. Senate Armed Forces Committee on Oct. 19, 1999, former Vieques Gov. Pedro Roselló declared, “Never again shall we tolerate abuse of a magnitude and scope the likes of which no community in any of the 50 states would ever be asked to tolerate. Never again shall we tolerate such abuse: not for 60 years, and not for 60 months, or 60 hours, or 60 minutes.”

Under growing pressure and following an executive order signed by then-President Clinton that stipulated a three-year pull-out plan, the Navy ceased operations on Vieques in 2003 — and tourists began to discover the island, drawn to its unspoiled whitesand beaches, bioluminescent bay, great fishing and scuba diving and the appealingly maverick character of the Spanish-speaking locals.

Luckily for those of us who prefer a secluded island getaway to a glitzy hot spot, the transition from bombing range to island idyll has been gradual and measured.

There are only two towns in Vieques. Isabel Segunda, on the Atlantic side, is the island’s main center of commerce. Tiny Esperanza, overlooking the Caribbean Sea, is a village on the beach.

The Fuerte Conde de Mirasol, a 19th-century Spanish fort and now a museum, dominates Isabel Segunda from its perch high above the town, giving it an Old World Spanish flare.

Wander the streets and you’ll discover fine-dining eateries sidled up to barbecue shacks. Venture past the modest facades and you may find yourself in an enchanted garden setting. If you’re looking for provisions — groceries to beach chairs, wine to sunscreen — you’ll find it in Isabel Segunda. You’ll also find one of the island’s only public WiFi hot-spots.

You won’t find stoplights, fashion boutiques or franchise restaurants.

Esperanza is even smaller, with a few beach shack-style restaurants and a decidedly casual ambience. Don anything more formal than a sundress or shorts and a T-shirt and you’ll be decidedly overdressed for shopping or dining.

At the moment, intimate island inns dominate the accommodations roster. Martineau Bay, a beachfront resort, is currently closed for renovations. It is slated to reopen as a 5-star W Retreat & Spa, the first in the Caribbean, in December. While the island’s business owners will be happy to see increased tourism when the W opens, we can only hope Vieques will retain its “undiscovered” charm as it gains recognition among world-class travelers.

LODGING

BRAVO BEA CH

Visitors looking for a hip boutique hotel atmosphere with plenty of privacy should consider Bravo Beach Hotel, a trendy property catering solely to adults (kids under 18 are not allowed). The nine-room hotel, formerly a private hacienda, also offers a two-bedroom villa for guests looking for the ultimate in privacy. The main building features plenty of outdoor living space in the form of verandas and a generous courtyard. Upscale touches include Frette linens and furnishings created by local artist Ernesto Peña, whose art is on exhibit at the Fortin Museum. The property offers WiFi in public areas, but guestrooms are purposely not equipped with telephones. On-hand concierge staff help arrange outings and watersports excursions. Gourmet dining, including a menu of tapas, is available at bbh. Guests can also sip a cocktail at the Palms lounge adjoining one of two swimming pools or take advantage of the property’s extensive wine cellar.$$$$
BRAVO BEACH
Vieques,
tel 787 741 1128,
http://www.bravobeachhotel.com

HIX ISLAND HOUSE

Ecology-conscious visitors looking for an antidote to their bustling lives will find a Zen atmosphere at this tiny property. There are 13 loft apartments housed in four buildings spread out over 13 acres. The services at this elegant hotel are low key — no phones, TVs or daily turn-down, for example — replaced with the serenity of the jasmine-scented surroundings. But don’t let the outdoor showers fool you; amenities are upscale and include Frette linens; Marimekko fabrics; and massage, yoga and meditation classes. Need to stay in touch? Log on to the WiFi in the common rooms, then ask the concierge to set you up with a mountain biking, sailing or horseback riding excursion. There is no restaurant at the property, but the apartments have kitchens, and the staff will direct guests to nearby restaurants. $$$$
HIX ISLAND HOUSE
Vieques,
tel 787-741-2302,
http://www.hixislandhouse.com

INN ON THE BLUE HORIZON

This waterfront property pays homage to its past as a Spanish sugar plantation with a main inn and a cluster of villas overlooking the Caribbean Sea. Guestrooms boast a serene island décor, mixed with original art and antiques. Designed with adults in mind — kids are welcome off-season; otherwise, they must be 14 or older — the property features a newly renovated Carambola restaurant serving Caribbean fusion cuisine with French and Italian influences. Or enjoy tapas nights on Tuesdays and Wednesdays at the Blue Moon Bar & Grill. The eateries are popular, so reservations are recommended, especially in season. For recreation, guests can swim in the 50-foot swimming pool, work out at the full-service gym — complete with state-of-the-art equipment — or play tennis at one of two Omni tennis courts with weather-resistant artificial turf and lights for night play. Joggers can also take advantage of the five-mile circular road beginning in front of the property.$$$
INN ON THE BLUE HORIZON
Vieques,
tel 877 741 2583 or 787 741 3318,
http://www.innonthebluehorizon.com

DINING

BILI RESTAURANT

Eva Bolivar of the Culinary Institute of America serves as chef at this oceanfront eatery, part of the Amapola Inn. The décor is fun and colorful with bright blue tiles, fire-engine-red chairs and natural wicker and rattan accents. The menu is Puerto Rican with fresh seafood, locally made desserts and signature cocktails. Diners can also enjoy the view, which looks out over two small islands in the distance along with a sprinkling of sailing vessels and birdlife.$$$
BILI RESTAURANT
Esperanza Beach,
tel 787 741 1382,
http://www.amapolainn.com

CHEZ SHACK
Dine on fresh seafood, steak or Caribbean specialties at this ultra-funky restaurant (the word “shack” in the name is deliberate), which has become an icon for locals and visitors over the years. This is the kind of restaurant that makes diners feel adventurous just by being there, and the atmosphere is friendly and unpretentious. At the same time, the menu choices are inviting, especially the ribs and the baked crab. Time your visit for Monday night for a dose of live reggae music. $$$
CHEZ SHACK
Esperanza,
tel 787 741 2175

LA TABERNA ESPAÑOLA
Pael la is the jewel in the crown on this restaurant menu, which offers a mix of Spanish and Caribbean cuisines. The straightforward décor of this island establishment belies the quality of the cuisine, which showcases fresh seafood served up in stews or breaded with spicy sauces. Located just off the main square in Isabel Segunda, the restaurant is popular with locals as well as visitors and usually bustles with activity, especially in season. $$
LA TABERNA ESPAÑOLA
Isabel Segunda,
tel 787 741 1175

DIVERSIONS

If you do nothing else in Vieques, make time for an evening visit to the Bioluminescent Bay, where tiny organisms glow eerily in the water when disturbed by even casual movement. Try Island Adventures (tel 787 7410720, http://www.biobay.com), which uses electric boats for its nightly forays into the bay with bilingual guides who are versed in the island’s ecology. Participants can float their arms in the water to stimulate the luminescence, or even slide into the water and swim around for an overall surreal experience. The company recommends checking the moon calendar posted on its Web site to select the best dates for your outing. Or try Heaven Karibe Adventure (tel 787 909 9685), which offers excursions to Bio Bay with a local biologist, departing from Esperanza.

Get a close up and personal look at the undersea life around Vieques with Capt. Carlos Bermudez via Vieques Divers Morning Snorkel Tours (tel 787 741 3627). The two-and-a-half-hour tour departs daily at 9:15 a.m. from Fisherman’s Pier. Aboard Soberano you’ll spend the day exploring out-of-the-way snorkel locations. Snorkel gear is available for rent, and there is a twoperson minimum, six-person maximum. Vieques Charters (tel 787 741 1389, 787 647 4237 or 787 647 4804, http://www.viequescharters-pr.com) offers snorkel excursions as well as sunset cruises or trips to Fajardo on the main island (Puerto Rico) for dinner. For scuba diving, check out Nan-Sea Charters (tel 787 741 2390), which offers half-day dives, scuba certification courses and snorkel tours. Fish for bonefish, tarpon and snapper (just to name a few) with Wild Fly Charters (tel 787 435 4833, http://www.wildflycharters.com) under the guidance of Capt. Greg McKee, who provides the gear and the know-how. Or try Caribbean Fly Fishing Co. (tel 787 741 1337) in Esperanza for deep-sea and fly fishing with owner Capt. Franco Gonzalez.

Land lubbers can explore the island on a mountain bike tour through Vieques Adventure Company (http://www.bikevieques.com), which offers half- and full-day guided excursions through some of the island’s most scenic routes. Tours start early to take advantage of the cool morning air, and itineraries can be customized, depending on the size of the group. Outings can include a hearty lunch at El Resuelve, a popular local eatery. Prefer to tour on your own? Rental bikes also are available, including helmet and pick-up and drop-off. Or explore the island on horseback via a two-hour guided excursion offered by Vieques Trail Ride (tel 787 741 4661). Rides begin at Sea Gate Hotel, and reservations are recommended.

Kick back at one of Vieques’ famous white-sand beaches, reputed to be some of the most beautiful in the Caribbean. Try Sun Bay Beach, the most popular beach on the island, for tops in swimming and services. Or spend a day at Media Luna, a shallow, protected bay ideal for visitors with young children or snorkelers who want to see the sights without getting tossed around by waves. Beachgoers in Esperanza who crave the sun, surf and an occasional cocktail can try Playa Esperanza, which offers swimming and snorkeling as well as a sprinkling of beachfront eateries. Hikers can take advantage of a trail linked to the beach. Forgot your beach gear? Try Abe’s Snorkeling (tel 787 741 2134 or 787 209 6090) for rental equipment or beach chairs and rafts on weekends on the Malecon section of Esperanza.

Learn about the culture of the island at the Museo Fuerte Conde de Mirasol (t el 787 741 1717), a 19th-century Spanish fort that was restored in 1991 and transformed into the Vieques Art and History Museum. Exhibits include stone and religious artifacts from the indigenous Arawak tribe, as well as information about the evolution and development of the island. The facility also houses the Vieques Archives, which contain five centuries’ worth of books and information about the island’s early history. Reservations are required to visit the archives, but not the fort. History buffs can also take in the restored Lighthouse at Punta Mulas (tel 787 741 0060), a maritime museum situated north of Isabel Segunda near the ferry port.

INFO TO GO

Most visitors get to Vieques by flying into San Juan International Airport (SJU) or the smaller San Juan Isla Grande Airport (SIG) on the main island of Puerto Rico, then taking a connecting flight to Vieques airport (VQS) via Vieques Air Link (tel 888 901 9247, http://www.vieques-island.com/val) or CapeAir (tel 800 352 0714, http://www.flycapeair.com). Once on the island, visitors can rent a car from a number of companies, but be aware that the terrain is best negotiated with fourwheel drive