Proud Istanbulis often proclaim that the best thing about visiting Ankara is returning to Istanbul. Perhaps they haven’t been there lately, because Ankara is no longer a mere outpost. While it might not match Istanbul’s sophistication and sights, Turkey’s capital is growing into a vibrant and livable city, and shedding its reputation as Istanbul’s dowdy sister.

Smack in the heart of Anatolia (Asian Turkey), Ankara has been the Turkish capital since Kemal Ataturk created the Republic of Turkey in the 1920s. Early on, Ankara was so undeveloped that it was almost impossible to find a decent hotel in the city. Yet it was chosen to replace Istanbul as the capital because its location, far from the sea, was strategically safe. Well aware of their cultural preeminence, Istanbulis fought hard to remain the center of government, a battle that continues to this day. The reality, however, is that most of Turkey is situated in Asia, while only a sliver — including Istanbul — is in Europe.

Much of the talk — or debate — on Ankara’s streets centers on last August’s election of Abdullah Gul, a Muslim, as Turkey’s president. Some believe Gul could take Turkey in a new direction politically and economically, which could potentially threaten the country’s political stability and the recent years of uninterrupted economic growth accomplished through a multi-party democracy with a free market economy.

There is also concern over a possible move away from a secular government, which could in turn trigger a slowdown of the country’s privatization, an important factor in attracting foreign investment. It is hoped that a stable government, economic reforms and eventual European Union membership will result in Turkey becoming one of Europe’s most profitable markets.

In the end all the talk might turn out to be cheap, as foreign companies transform Ankara into a business hub. Those investing here include Citigroup, Vodafone and General Electric. Last year Turkey attracted a record amount of foreign investment — almost $20 billion. Much of this was spurred by cuts in corporate taxes as well as partnerships in the financial sector and the selling of government-owned companies, all of which has helped to lessen unemployment — now somewhere around 10 percent — and to spur Ankara to new heights.

Like Istanbul, Ankara is a blend of antiquity and modernism. Growing in both size — its population is now about 4.5 million — and stature, this once staid capital of government wonks has emerged as a lively city without the traffic problems that plague Istanbul. And compared with its big sister, Ankara can boast lower prices and less crime. Historically, tourists (myself included) have breezed through Ankara en route to compelling places such as Cappadocia, leaving the capital to business travelers who felt stuck there out of necessity. Today many visitors are lingering to enjoy the city’s sights, shopping and restaurants.

Like much of this part of the world, Ankara can trace its colorful history back at least 3,000 years to the Bronze Age, when it was home to the Hittites. Over the centuries it was settled by Lydians, Persians, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans, the latter’s empire lasting 900 years into the 20th century. Defeated by the Allies in 1918, the Ottomans and other empires retain a legacy through archaeological remains in the historic Ulus area. Of note are the Temple of Augustus and Rome, dating to 20 B.C., and the Column of Julianus, which was constructed for the Roman emperor’s visit in the 4th century. Ankara became the Turkish summer capital when the heat in Constantinople, now Istanbul, became too oppressive. It is said that King Midas was born there, although there are no obvious signs of his mythical touch.

Of course, Ankara’s location also made it a center of trade in the ancient world. Its Citadel, the oldest part of the city, was an important stop on the Silk Road. Now the Citadel’s crumbling walls are undergoing a major reno vation in an attempt to bolster the tourist trade. One part of its facelift, in fact, has been the location of restaurants in Ottoman houses inside the old walls. The old narrow Pirinc Han has become a thriving antique center, and what was once a covered bazaar is today the fascinating Museum of Anatolian Civilizations.

Meanwhile, boutique hotels, office towers, smart restaurants and burgeoning suburbs are giving Ankara a feel similar to that of Istanbul. The downtown area includes high-rise buildings, familiar fashion names and fast-food restaurants. Kavaklidere, once famous for its vineyards, now boasts a modern shopping center flanked by Hilton and Sheraton hotels, the latter with a new convention center attached. Districts such as Cankaya and the trendy Gaziosmanpasa, or “GOP,” contain many of the embassies and diplomatic residences, elegant shops, art galleries, and some of Ankara’s best restaurants. As the growth continues, the new frontier is extending deep into outlying areas.

Fueling this suburban growth is the city’s subway, which is expected to expand to Cayyolu, Umitkoy and Etimesgut, all upscale places where Ankarans tend to be moving. Among new hotel developments growing along with the population are the Divan Hotel Moment in Kavaklidere and a new Swissôtel. These have been joined by boutique properties created from older buildings. Among them: The Gordion is embellished with Turkish marble, handmade textiles and original antique accessories from the 17th to 19th centuries, while the Angora House in the old city was once the elegant home of a member of Turkey’s first parliament.

Ironically, and probably not amusing to certain Istanbulis, many of Ankara’s newest dining establishments are branches of Istanbul restaurants opened here to capitalize on the growing sophistication and interest in good living. Kosebasi, an established Istanbul restaurant group, just opened Kosebasi Express in Ankara’s Cepa mall. It joins the full-service Kosebasi that opened several years ago in centrally located Gaziosmanpasa. Other familiar Istanbul favorites include Park Fora, a well-regarded Istanbul seafood restaurant; the Divan Brasserie and the Milan-based Paper Moon. Tike, one of Istanbul’s best kebab houses, is also represented.

It may amount to bringing coals to Newcastle, but coffee chains are another welcome addition, even in a place where local coffee is considered sacrosanct. Starbucks arrived in Turkey in 2003 and now has 65 outlets, several of which are in Ankara. It even serves Turkish coffee, prepared the old-fashioned way.

Meanwhile, the Turkish economy has been growing at more than twice the E.U. average. And while Turkey’s quest for European Union membership remains a priority, at the moment relations with neighboring Iraq is probably Turkey’s most important foreign issue. Whatever the future holds, it is certain that Ankara has all the ingredients in place to mix business with pleasure.

Entry Requirements

Visas are required for U.S. citizens. Three-month visas can be obtained at entry points. For longer visits, visas must be obtained in advance. For more information, visit http://www.turkishembassy.org.

More Information

Foreign Commercial Section
American Embassy Ankara
110 Atatürk Blvd.
Kavaklıdere, 06100 Ankara
tel 90 312 455 5555