Do you remmeber those commercials that compared everyday life to how things would be “in a perfect world”? Well, we may have found that perfect world — or at least a pretty good facsimile – in St. Moritz, Switzerland.

This fairytale community tucked high in the Alps doesn’t just boast a Heidi-like setting, but also a nearly nonexistent crime rate and streets devoid of graffiti and litter. Daily, we witnessed the disinfecting of public phones and the careful trimming of street flowerbox displays, one flower at a time. Even the weather is perfect: so much so it’s called a “champagne climate.” With abundant sunshine, St. Moritz brags that it has only two seasons: temperate summers and powdery winters.

Most arrivals in St. Moritz are by train from the Swiss town of Chur, a scenic ride that climbs continuously up into the Alps, each turn taking riders up another summit toward St. Moritz to experience a high life that is the stuff of gossip columns, Olympic dreams, and big bank accounts.

”Allegra!” called our hotel driver in the Romanch greeting as we stepped off the train in St. Moritz. After several days of hectic urban travel, the cool mountain air on the rail platform with the fairytale backdrop of this classic Swiss community seemed like a setting fit for royalty.

And, in St. Moritz, it often is. From the Duke of Windsor to Princess Caroline and Prince Ernst, this town of only 5,600 permanent residents is a favorite among European monarchs – a getaway for a few days of skiing and après ski fun that ranges from shopping to spas to fine dining.

Our first stop was our home-away-from-home, Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, easy to spot on the St. Moritz skyline thanks to its trademark square, green-roofed tower. Since 1896, the hotel has been welcoming visitors; a scrapbook in the lobby included past guests ranging from Alfred Hitchcock to John Lennon.

That rich and famous set, however, frequents St. Moritz during the winter months, the time to see and be seen on the slopes at the other outdoor venues. During this season, the surrounding Piz Nair, Corvatsch and Diavolezza peaks take center stage with active travelers. Host to the Winter Olympic Games in 1928 and 1949, St. Moritz has facilities for everything from downhill and cross country to ski jumping, curling and snowboarding. It is even home to the world’s only remaining natural ice bobsled run. Nearby lakes freeze over by late December — so solidly that they become the setting for horse races with 10,000 spectators as well as polo and cricket matches on ice.

Our autumn visit preceded the ski season, but that didn’t make our visit to the world’s first winter resort any less spectacular or the choice of activities any fewer. From hiking and mountain climbing to windsurfing and whitewater rafting, the surrounding Engadin Valley, with its 25 inky-blue alpine lakes and craggy peaks, tempts adventurers of all levels. About this near-perfect alpine setting, German novelist Thomas Mann once said, “I repeat myself yet again – this upper Engadin is the most beautiful abode in the world. I do not easily speak of happiness, but I almost believe I am happy here.”

Along with the surrounding countryside, we found that activities are also found in town, which is divided into Bad, known for its spas or baths, and Dorf, the hillside portion of town that’s home to the city’s hotels. One afternoon we headed to Bad to “take the waters” from the mineral springs that first drew travelers to this region. The spa-goers beat the winter tourists by centuries; in fact, as far back as the mid-14th century Pope Leo X offered full absolution to any pilgrims who traveled here to the mineral springs of the city’s Mauritius Well.

A dose of mineral water and a spa treatment at Kempinski Grand Hôtel des Bains, a five-star hotel built at the source of the springs, and we were ready to explore Dorf. As flatland travelers, we took slow, lung-expanding strolls up the steep streets lined with shops whose names are synonymous with chic St. Moritz: Bulgari, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada, Van Cleef & Arpels, the list goes on. This season, St. Moritz is even launching its own luxury fashion label to be followed in spring 2007 by St. Moritz men’s tailoring and luxury goods. It follows a movement started 75 years ago with the trade-marking of the St. Moritz name.

Luxury takes many forms in St. Moritz including fine dining. At the end of the day, we headed to Chesa Veglia, the city’s oldest farmhouse, dating to 1658. Located behind Town Hall, the typical Engadin farmhouse now serves as an elegant restaurant with specialties that range from chateaubriand to chicken Kiev.

For all of St. Moritz’s ties to the rich and famous, though, it was another household name that set our travel plans the next day: Heidi. We hopped a funicular, followed by two cable cars, and worked our way up the peaks that would, in a few weeks’ time, be transformed into a snowy challenge with miles of ski trails. Today, though, they still were covered with the season’s last alpine wildflowers and the “brownies,” the brown-and-white cows expertly balanced on the slopes, so much a part of Swiss culture.

After a peek at the peaks, we headed down to a lower elevation and to the Schellenursli Trail. This gentle hike is a favorite with families thanks to its relatively flat terrain and its most famous feature: the Heidihütte. Heidi’s cabin, brought decades ago to the hillside for the filming of a Heidi movie, dates back 200 years. Simple and small, the hut stands in stark contrast to the glittery town the trail overlooks.

But, surrounded by the alpine flowers, the clang of the cows’ bells, and the crisp mountain air, we realized that Heidi’s hut had one very important thing in common with St. Moritz – it was just about as close to perfect as you could get.