Students of the Korean martial art Tae Kwon Do know that the essence of this fighting technique is temperance; unwavering power comes not from raw strength but from maintaining a steady and exact pose. Seoul, the capital of South Korea, has practiced this principle for more than 600 years, repositioning itself to take advantage of shifting trends in Asia and the world, rebuilding itself every decade and landing, with gravity-defying maneuvers, on top. Nothing seems to keep this city down.

During the past century Seoul has suffered the indignity and devastation of Japanese occupation, the division of Korea by allied forces following World War II and complete destruction during the Korean War, only to emerge as the driving force behind South Korea’s current status as one of the four “Asian Tiger” nations. Even by global standards, Seoul has an impressive résumé. The fifth largest city in the world, it is home to 11 million residents with another 8 million living within commuting distance. It is the political, financial, educational and cultural hub of the world’s 11th largest economy and does not show any intention of relinquishing this position — unless it is to move up in the rankings.

At the forefront of Korea’s expanding economy are the universities, scientists and family-owned or jaebeol companies located in Seoul. These family businesses are not your mom-and-pop grocery stores or thirdgeneration barbershops. The list of these Seoul-based leaders in South Korea’s export industry includes Samsung, Hyundai and Kia Motors. A stroll down Teheran Street, considered Seoul’s Silicon Valley, is a crash course in the remarkable cutting-edge position of Seoul in the IT market.

The success of these corporations has been a catalyst in Seoul’s business sector. Koreans were understandably proud when Samsung’s stock value surpassed that of Sony. At the same time, the perceived monopoly created by Korea’s industry-leading corporations has fueled a rise in Korean entrepreneurship and this, coupled with the global markets made accessible via the Internet, has led to a proliferation of venture companies.

Seoul has been open for business since the early 1980s when Korean products — primarily textiles, shoes, electronics and cars — began gaining recognition. However, it wasn’t until Seoul hosted the 1988 Summer Olympic Games that the Korean people really got a chance to showcase not just their rich heritage but also what they’d accomplished since the war. While Seoul gave the world the Summer Olympics, the Summer Olympics gave Seoul the world. In preparation for the world’s scrutiny, Seoul instituted widespread reforms and underwent a huge facelift: The Han River was spruced up with clean water and parks; the impressive Olympic Park was built and the Olympic Expressway connecting Seoul and the airport was completed. More importantly, the games brought relaxed travel restrictions for both Korean nationals and foreigners, and valuable trade and diplomatic relations with Eastern Europe, the Soviet Union and China. The Seoul Olympics encouraged the West to explore the culture and history of South Korea and opened up avenues of foreign trade and commerce.

Today, Seoul continues to reap the rewards of what many consider the most successful Summer Olympics to date. The doors remain open, and the tourism and hospitality industries have grown. Fabulous 5-star hotels and restaurants now share equal billing with Korea’s celebrated palaces, royal shrines and colorful street scenes virtually unchanged for centuries. Seoulites are now in a spending mode, so much so that in 2005 the workweek was officially reduced to five days for most business and public offices. Lest you think this was an altruistic move on the government’s part; that is only semi-true. It is hoped that this will give the Koreans time to part with some of their salaries in their own backyard and support the local economy. The influx of high-end designer boutiques, imported ca rs and up-to-the-nanosecond mobile technology seems a good indicator that this strategy is working.

Seoul’s quick rush to participate in the future is also apparent in its thriving fashion industry, poised to rival Tokyo. Gone are the days of going to Itaewon to buy some knock-off Reeboks. Now fashionistas head to the government-sponsored Seoul Fashion Design Center and attend the annual Seoul Fashion Week in mid- April. Despite the ever-rising value of the won, shopping is still a bargain in Seoul and a well-deserved attraction for many visitors. Korean cinema has also been causing the international film industry to sit up and take notice. Currently Korea produces an impressive average of 50 films a year and has snapped up numerous festival awards. Korean soap operas are also taking the world by storm and enjoying an unprecedented international crossover appeal.

As many foreign investors are realizing, Seoul is a potential boomtown. The anticipated spillover from the Beijing Summer Olympics in 2008 could make it even more of a hot spot.

LODGING

GRAND HYATT SEOUL

Perched on historic Mount Namsan within walking distance of the famous shopping, dining and clubbing offered in Itaewon, this hotel makes the most of its vantage point and offers incredible views of Seoul. The service is impeccable as befits a property used to hosting American presidents. Dining options include The Paris Grill, reminiscent of a 1930sstyle bistro; The Chinese Restaurant; Akasaka and Tenkai, for Japanese cuisine; and the fabulous Jungwon Buffet, which serves primarily Korean fare. Club Olympus Spa and the hotel fitness center are excellent sport facilities with squash and tennis and in winter you can ice-skate on the pool. 747-7 Hannam 2-Dong, Yongsan-Ku, tel 82 2 797 1234, http://www.seoul.grand.hyatt.com $$$-$$$$

THE SHILLA SEOUL
Headquarters hotel for the 1988 Seoul Olympic Games, the Shilla is one of the capital’s best business addresses, close to downtown and the popular shopping mecca of Myeong-dong. Located in the foothills of Namsan and surrounded by a 23-acre private park, everything about this property — part of the Samsung Group — aims to impress. Guests enjoy free use of cell phones (Samsung, of course); there is a sculpture garden and duty-free shop on the grounds and CNN on small screens in the elevators. Despite the modern technology (your TV volume will lower when you receive calls to your guestroom) the hotel retains a Korean flavor with local artwork and traditional architecture. Dining options include Japanese, Chinese and continental. 202 Jangchung-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu, tel 82 2 2233 3131, http://www.shilla.net $$$$

W SEOUL WALKERHILL

The W brand is known for its “Life as Art” approach and this new 250-room masterpiece, located just 15 minutes from Seoul’s business districts, is no exception. Its radically modernistic design includes a glass box exterior and futuristic lobby with moving artworks. The hotel’s interior is dramatic and contemporary and its “Whatever Whenever” approach to service produces anything from bathtubs of hot chocolate to extra towels. Dining options are exceptional and great views of the Han River and the surrounding 180 acres of parkland lend a nice balance to the cuttingedge décor. 21 Gwangjang Dong, Gwanjin Gu, tel 82 2 465 2222, http://www.wseoul.com $$$$

DINING

EUNHASU BUFFET

The buffets in Asia make most of their American counterparts blush in embarrassment at their inadequacies, and this restaurant maintains that high standard. It is a perfect introduction to a wide variety of Korean food including beef ribs, kimchi (spicy pickled cabbage), rice porridge and more. Some Western items are also in the line-up and the green décor and tasteful surroundings create a festive feel. 61- 3 Choongmuro 2-ga, Chung-gu, Seoul Sejong Hotel, tel 82 2 3705 9141 $$$$

KOREA HOUSE

The royal banquet or lunch buffets are the best way to go at this sh owcase of Korean food and culture. Dinner is served in a hanok, the traditional onestory, tile-roofed Korean house. There are two seatings: 5:30 to 7 p.m. and 7:20 to 8:50 p.m. The set menu includes a sampling of various Korean delicacies including sweet kal bi (beef marinated in soy sauce, sesame, ginger and garlic), eel, oxtail soup, salad, king prawn and abalone. Evening meals are followed by a one-hour Korean theater performance. Chungmuro station, tel 82 2 2266 9101, http://www.koreahouse.or.kr $$-$$$$

TOP CLOUD RESTAURANT AND BAR
Located on the top floor of Jongo Tower, this restaurant offers knockout views of the city, French cuisine and live jazz. Noted for its great steaks, attentive English-speaking staff and romantic atmosphere, it’s a nice spot for cocktails as well. Music nightly from 7:30 p.m. to midnight, except Mondays. Insadong, Jongo Tower, tel 82 2 2230 3000 $$$$

Just the Facts

Time Zone: GMT + 9 Phone Code: 82 Korea, 2 Seoul Currency: Won Entry/Exit Requirements: U.S citizens need a passport valid for a minimum of six months beyond the intended stay; visas are not required for stays of up to 30 days. Official Language: Korean Key Industries: Information and communication technology, electronics, automobiles and machinery

DIVERSIONS

Gyeongbokgung (tel 82 2 732 1931), The Palace of Shining Happiness, is one of the city’s grandest architectural sights. Located in downtown Seoul it is not far from Jogyesa (http://www.jogyesa.org/english), the largest Buddhist shrine in Seoul and Insadong, a virtual smorgasbord of traditional Korean cooking. Yongsan Electronic Market offers a huge inventory of just about anything you can plug in and also the lowest prices in town. For fashion, Myeong Dong and Namsan offer trendy local and imported clothes, shoes, accessories and cosmetics; also great cafés. Dongdaemun Market takes shopping to a whole new level, with so many malls and small boutiques that it also has a 24-hour massage service onsite to help you recharge. For one-stop shopping, head to your local E-Mart, Seoul’s version of Wal-Mart, great for locally produced clothes, shoes, sportswear, snacks, gadgets — you name it. Itaewon, once considered the one and only place to shop in Seoul is still going strong. It has a different atmosphere from the rest of the city, with late-night pubs, bars and nightclubs that attract a lot of expats. Worthy of note: 3 Alley Pub (Itaewon-dong 116-15, tel 82 2 749 3336). For more refined after-hours activities, look to Seoul’s popular hotels. The W Seoul Walkerhill’s WooBar (tel 82 2 465 2222), is a stunning gathering place and the city’s longest bar, with 198 seats. For great views of the city, there are a couple of skyscraper options: The gold-tinted 63 Building on Yeouido and downtown Seoul’s Jongo Tower.

Checking in With Jong Hee Lee
President and COO, Korean Air

Global Traveler: How has Seoul’s ranking as a destination for business travel changed since hosting the 1988 Summer Olympics?

Jong Hee Lee: The 1988 Olympics opened up Korea to the world. It shifted the paradigm. Seoul went through a very rapid modernization in response to demand for more accommodating and sophisticated services. Seoul now has the world’s great hotels, exciting nightlife, cutting-edge conference and convention facilities, world-class restaurants and an array of entertainment and sports options. It’s a vibrant and energetic business location and we at Korean Air enjoy its success as such, connecting more than 100 cities in 36 countries on six continents.

GT: Have you seen any increase in bookings or a spike in the economy as a result of the upcoming 2008 Olympics in Beijing?

JHL: We’ve had a lot of inquiries from our corporate accounts because they’ll be taking their own people and customers, and we offer one of the best routes for Americans to go to the Olympics. Korean Air flies from 13 North American cities to more than 20 cities in China, with a simple and quick connection in Incheon. And we have three daily flights from Incheon to Beijing and Shanghai so travelers have choices.

GT: Please tell us about your “Excellence in Flight” vision. What is it and why is it relevant now?

JHL: Our Excellence in Flight vision, introduced in 2004, is providing the direction for Korean Air to be the best of the best. It supports our mission to be a respected leader in the global airline industry with service that exceeds expectations, products valued and trusted by customers, and a corporate culture that encourages innovation. Korean Air’s goal is to be one of the world’s top 10 passenger airlines by 2010. We already are the world’s largest commercial cargo carrier and the largest transpacific airline for people and products from Los Angeles and New York to Asia. But competition has never been fiercer in the transpacific race to claim the booming China and India markets. And that is why we have adopted Excellence in Flight — to differentiate ourselves from the competition and set standards for others to achieve.

GT: What influence do you see Seoul in general, and Korean Air
specifically, having on the Southeast Asian market in the next 10
years?

JHL: There are going to be significant changes in economies and international trade in the next decade, especially between the world and the China/India region. An avalanche of industry is forming in those two countries and you either ski ahead of the rush or get buried by it. We at Korean Air choose to ski in front with more North American gateways to Asia than any other airline and Incheon as our lead. Incheon is an attractive connecting point to the entire region, and both Seoul and Korean Air benefit from the geography. As more traffic goes through Incheon, more travelers are welcomed to the vibrancy of Seoul, and that’s good for everyone.

INFO TO GO

Virtually all international visitors to Seoul arrive at Incheon International Airport (ICN), located about 90 minutes from the city center. An airport limo into the city costs about $15 and a taxi about $38.

For traveling around town, locals use the subway — it’s the third busiest subway in the world, after Tokyo and Moscow. The trains are clean, the lines are color-coded and signs are posted in English, making this an efficient way for English-speaking visitors to get around. Tickets are sold at automated vending machines and manned ticket counters. For more information, visit http://www.tour2korea.com or call 800 TOUR KOR(EA).