The “city different,” the oldest and highest (at 7,000 feet) capital city in the United States and one-time center of “The Kingdom of New Mexico,” is hailed as an ancient center for spiritual healing. It’s a fascinating place, and Santa Fe has proudly kept its blended heritage alive — Native American, Spanish and Anglo-American — in a cultural mélange that appeals to both residents and visitors alike.

There is a reason that approximately 2,000 professional artists live and work in a city of 68,000 — and that 250 art galleries thrive here amid the mesas and mountains of northern New Mexico. It’s “the light” — an amazingly intense aura of color produced when the sun illuminates the adobe and wood buildings (since 1958, a city mandate ensures the structures remain historically accurate) and shows them in tones of warm raspberry honey. That light comes into play year round. With 300 days of sunshine every year — even in the darkness of November and December when other cities bear a shroud of gray midwinter gloom — Santa Fe’s sunshine brightens the mood and showcases the town’s architectural gems. It was this light that brought artist Georgia O’Keeffe to Santa Fe and kept her here, always within 50 miles of the city, for the rest of her life.

Tourists flock to the galleries that line Canyon Road to buy jewelry from the Native American artists who must prove their talent in order to earn a spot at the portal near the Plaza, the heart of the city. Other draws include the historic Palace of the Governors Museum and the savory northern New Mexican cuisine.

Visitors who look beyond its welllit facades and charming streets discover that Santa Fe is also a city of technology. Its proximity to Los Alamos National Laboratory leads to its ranking as a town with one of the highest per capita Ph.D. populations in the nation. Not routinely open to the public, the Santa Fe Institute — one of the world’s leading organizations for advanced thinking about the outer limits of physics — hosts occasional lectures that are at once fascinating and mind-boggling.

Government, tourism and film are highlights of the regional economy, with a huge increase in the latter, spurred by an aggressive incentive program. The city maintains two permanent Western sets. Recent releases shot on location in or near Santa Fe include No Country for Old Men and 3:10 to Yuma.

Next year Santa Fe celebrates its 400th anniversary. While most original Anglo-American residents moved here in 1610, the city charter was signed in 1609, so celebrations will stretch through both years. Gearing up for the gala, construction of the new convention center is on schedule for completion this summer. The Palace of the Governors will be expanded into a full-fledged state history museum, and the newest, most interesting project — the Santa Fe Railyard — is a 50-acre development already anchored by the converted railroad warehouses that form Sanbusco Market Center, El Museo Cultural, SITE Santa Fe (a not-for-profit arts organization dedicated to enriching the city’s culture) and numerous shops, galleries and restaurants.

Other projects on the drawing board include the construction of a permanent home for the highly regarded Santa Fe Farmers Market, 10 acres of public space including a plaza, performance venue and multiuse trail. New shops, offices and apartments, a theater complex and large underground parking lots are all under construction. The development boasts a purposefully green infrastructure with components that include water-wise landscaping, runoff control and extensive water catchments.

Santa Fe is a walking town, with five compact historic districts that are easily navigable on foot. And although it has spread outward a bit since the nomadic Paleo-Indians first inhabited the town 10,000 years ago, it somehow h as maintained the whisper of antiquity so many cities lose as they grow.

LODGING

THE INN OF THE ANASAZI

Beautifully reflecting the artistic skills of the Native Americans of 2,000 years ago who were expert stonemasons, basket-weavers and pottery-makers, the 57-room boutique hotel incorporates the art and spirit of the Anasazi with massive hand-carved doors, sculptured stairways and regionally authentic décor. As close as you can get to the Plaza without putting up a tent, the inn is also two steps from some of the finest galleries in town. The concierge can arrange a private guide to fill you in on the sights, or you may opt for an in-room massage and aromatherapy treatment.$$$$
THE INN OF THE ANASAZI
113 Washington Ave.,
tel 505 988 3030,
http://www.innoftheanasazi.com

THE INN OF THE FIVE GRACES
“Graces” is the Tibetan celebration of the five senses, and all — particularly sight — are more than satisfied in this luxurious, 22-suite escape from the everyday. Owners Sylvia and Ira Seret, a designer and a rug importer, respectively, have crafted an enchanting place where the Orient meets the Old West, complemented by Afghan dhurrie and Turkish kilim rugs; Moroccan wood carvings; vividly colored tile mosaic bathrooms; heavy, dark, hand-carved antique chests and giant featherbeds.$$$$
THE INN OF THE FIVE GRACES
150 E. De Vargas St.,
tel 505 992 0957,
http://www.fivegraces.com

ELDORADO HOTEL AND SPA

One of the largest hotels in town with 219 guestrooms and more meeting space than any other hotel in Santa Fe, the city’s first 4-diamond hotel does not skimp on décor. In fact, it is fashioned in New Mexico’s celebrated Pueblo-Revival architectural style and houses more than $250,000 of original art. Guestrooms, some with kiva fireplaces and balconies or terraces, are furnished in warm, desert tones. The heated rooftop pool offers stunning views of the city, and Nidah Spa is known for its signature treatments.$$$
ELDORADO HOTEL AND SPA
309 W. San Francisco St.,
tel 800 955 4455,
http://www.eldoradohotel.com

DINING

THE COMPOUND

You’re already surrounded by art as you walk along the small road that leads to The Compound — and you will find more artistry inside, where you’ll savor Chef Mark Kiffin’s wild mushroom cappuccino starter or his signature grilled tenderloin of black Angus beef with Cape O’Brien potatoes and foie gras hollandaise. Kiffin was named Best Chef of the Southwest 2005 by the James Beard Foundation for his contemporary American cuisine with a Spanish flavor. Pushing 40, the venerable restaurant was recently renovated top to bottom.$$$$
THE COMPOUND
653 Canyon Road,
tel 505 982 4353,
http://www.compoundrestaurant.com

COYOTE CAFÉ

When the very popular upscale Canyon Road restaurant Geronimo closed recently, Chef Eric DeStefano bought Coyote Café, where he set up shop to offer Southwest fare he describes as “modern food that honors the ancient spirits.” Specialties include pecan-grilled New York sirloin with pasilla-chile and fig green mole sauce; and rotisserieroasted pheasant with huitlacoche crepe and truffle whipped cream. La Cantina, Coyote Café’s more casual rooftop dining patio, is open from April to October.$$$$
COYOTE CAFÉ
132 W. Water St.,
tel 505 983 1615,
http://www.coyotecafe.com

RANCHO DE SAN JUAN
It is definitely worth the half-hour drive to reach the only Relais & Châteaux property in the Southwest. Surrounded by stunning works of art and heirloom sterling silver, dine on Chef John Johnson’s creative Nortena (Northern New Mexican) cuisine. In addition to mouth-watering beef, specialties include artichoke heart au gratin and sautéed New Zealand crab cakes.$$$$
RANCHO DE SAN JUAN
30420 Highway 285 at Rancho San Juan Road, Ojo Caliente,
tel 505 753 6818,
http://www.ranchodesanjuan.com

At Home with Keith Tolar
Executive Director, Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau

Keith Tolar weighs in with his Top 10 favorite things about Santa Fe.

1. Old Fort Marcy Park at sunset The sunsets in Santa Fe can be stunning owing to the clear, high altitude and the play of light and clouds around the mountains. Fort Marcy is near my home and offers a great view of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the reflected sunset.

2. Museum of International Folk Artor Georgia O’Keeffe Museum Both museums offer amazing work in their specific areas. The folk art museum has a huge collection of folk art from around the world, plus the mind-boggling Girard Foundation Collection of objects. The Georgia O’Keeffe Museum not only thrills me with the variety of O’Keefe’s work but also is a fascinating look at her contemporaries as seen in the rotating exhibitions.

3. SITE Santa Fe The very contemporary works at SITE represent artists I’ve never heard of working in ways that push the boundaries of art and imagination.

4. Frito Pie from Atomic Grill The Frito Pie is a quintessential Santa Fe thing — chile, cheese and onions served over Fritos. It was invented here, perfected here and is part of the city’s lore. The Atomic Grill makes a great version, but there are others, and I’m searching them out.

5. Trekking up the Aspen Vista Trail in October This is a high-altitude hike that has everything. Huge aspen stands that are especially wonderful in the fall, a glorious alpine environment and expansive views of the Rio Grande Valley.

6. Margaritas at Del Charro If the Frito Pie is an official dish of Santa Fe, the margarita is the official drink. Enjoy one of the best by the fireplace or al fresco on the patio.

7. Concerts at the Paolo Soleri Amphitheater I have a love of music, and there are a lot of groups that come through town, plus plenty of local talent. One of the city’s most enjoyable venues is the Paolo Soleri Amphitheater, designed by the visionary architect in 1966 for outdoor summer concerts.

8. Farmers Market The Santa Fe Farmers Market is one of the city’s greatest resources and gathering spots. Saturdays in the spring, summer and fall at the Farmers Market mean great, fresh food, running into friends and making new ones. The abundance that comes out of the nearby farms is amazing and is the foundation for Santa Fe’s robust Farm to Table movement.

9. Tapas There’s something simple, fun and delicious about tapas, and Santa Fe has several very good restaurants featuring them. The food at El Meson is fantastic, the setting is very relaxed, and the jazz in the adjoining bar is always good.

10. Ten Thousand Waves After that long Aspen Vista hike or when I just need to be indulged, I head for Ten Thousand Waves for the outdoor hot tub in the pines and a massage.

Diversions

Art is so central to the Santa Fe lifestyle that you’ll find some kind of art-related event every Friday and Saturday night year round. For many, this is a welcome alternative to the club scene, although there are small clubs with acoustic music in the hotels or in freestanding buildings. The Cowgirl (319 S. Guadalupe St., tel 505 982 2565, http://www.santafestation.com/cowgirl/index.html) is funky and fun with local bluegrass or rock ’n’ roll. For blues only, with both local and national bands playing, head to Willee’s Blues Bar (401 S. Guadalupe St., tel 505 982 0117, http://www.willees.com). For flamenco performances; Spanish-inspired l unch, tapas or dinner; as well as a lively bar scene and salsa lessons to boot, El Farol (808 Canyon Road, 505 983 9912, http://www.elfarolsf.com) is the place.

From June through August the Santa Fe Opera (Opera Drive, tel 505 988 1234, http://www.santafeopera.org) presents performances in its spectacular open-air theater, where you’re surrounded by views of the mountains, the moon and the stars as you listen to some of the best singers in the world. Throughout the year Lensic Performing Arts Center (211 W. San Francisco St., tel 505 988 7050) presents everything from old movies to touring musicians to Chinese acrobats.

INFO TO GO

Albuquerque International Support Airport (ABQ), an hour from Santa Fe, has long served as the gateway to Santa Fe. Most visitors rent a car and drive Route 25 straight north into the city. The Santa Fe Municipal (SAF) Airport is located nine miles southwest of Santa Fe. Due to its FAA classification, the airport cannot regularly accommodate commercial aircraft with more than 30 passenger seats. American Eagle and Delta are set to begin service to and from Santa Fe in late spring or early summer 2008 pending federal approval of an environmental assessment. For more information, visit http://www.santafe.org