Gazing down upon Chester from the broad, red sandstone walls that surround it, I can’t help but be annoyed. My husband, James, who’s taking the two-mile tour with me, has the same look of vague discontent on his own face. I know what he’s thinking before he utters a word: While the low rock wall we labored over a few summers ago is already crumbling around the edges of our garden, this ancient, Roman-built wall beneath our feet shows no sign of caving despite 2,000 years of constant exposure.

Oblivious to our unexpressed frustration, our cheery guide waves her hand and points out the spot where Charles I once stood to contemplate the Battle of Rowton Moor as it played out below, then leads us to Eastgate and its famously ornate metalwork tower and clock. She explains that the four-faced clock, added during the Victorian era to celebrate the 60th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s reign, once had its hands stolen by an audaciously bold thief.

Though present-day Chester’s accolades include its status as Britain’s most complete surviving example of a fortified, walled city, there’s plenty to admire here beyond the artful stacking of stones. We follow the wall tour with a visit to the Roman Amphitheatre, the country’s largest of its kind, which once served double duty as both an entertainment setting and grounds for military practice. Much of the massive structure remains unexcavated, and archaeologists working at the site speculate that despite its grandeur, it was only used for a brief stretch of time.

At Chester Cathedral we trek the 200 steps that lead to the bell tower on the Cathedral at Height Tour for heady views of the city and nearby Wales, and then break for afternoon tea at The Chester Grosvenor. The practice of afternoon tea, introduced by a peckish Duchess of Bedford in 1830, is a highly developed art form at this historic property. Having already agreed on a light supper, we’ve booked the Decadent Champagne Afternoon Tea from the themed choices and arrive prepared to fully enjoy the experience.

Along with the expected perfectly brewed tea, excellent fruit scones and delicate sandwiches, there’s a half-bottle of Taittinger Nocturne Sec, sweet English strawberries and clotted cream, plus a selection of beautiful pastries and colorfully iced “fancies.” We agree that having taken the city and cathedral tours earlier was a stroke of brilliance, as the unaccustomed sugar rush quickly cascades into the longing for a long, post-tea nap.

The Rows shops © ABSENTE | DREAMSTIME.COM

We’ve set the following day aside for shopping and a cruise and head for The Rows, a line of two-story galleried shops dating back to medieval times. While the original shoppers likely sought cobblers, weavers and ironsmiths, I’m after a bottle of my favorite scent from historic London perfumers Penhaligon’s, and James is on the hunt for a pair of gloves from menswear tailors and Royal Warrant holders Gieves & Hawkes.

Shopping complete, it’s time for an unhurried trip down the River Dee aboard The Lady Diana, one of the luxury showboats operated by ChesterBoat. We make ourselves comfortable on the enclosed upper deck and enjoy a glass of wine as the city slips by and transforms into landscaped gardens and the long, flowering stretch known as The Meadows.

We spend our last day in lovely Chester just outside the city at Cholmondeley Castle Gardens. Standing on the site of an earlier structure, the castle was rebuilt as a Gothic villa in 1801 by the 4th Earl of Cholmondeley. It’s the vast garden complex we’ve come to enjoy, and we set off along a path that leads through 50 acres of ornamental gardens refined by generations of Cholmondeleys. Separate terraced areas are dedicated to roses, lavenders and formal gardens, with the Silver Garden devoted to silver-hued foliage. Our favorite spaces prove to be the Temple Garden and a meandering track through a grove of laburnum that leads to the peaceful Duckery water garden, complete with its own romantic English folly.

The garden tour inevitably dredges up thoughts of our sadly tilting wall at home, and we reach a solemn agreement: The problem simply must be addressed. Once we’re unpacked, our must-do list includes tracking down a landscaper with ties to a castle — or better yet, one who can offer proof of Roman ancestry.

Chester Info to Go

Options for reaching Chester via air include Manchester (MAN) or Liverpool John Lennon (LPL) international airports, each roughly 40–45 minutes from Chester. Regional train service operates daily to and from Manchester Airport’s transportation hub, The Station. Taxis are available from outside the arrivals hall, along with 24-hour bus service into Manchester, with additional train connections to Chester available from there. There is no direct train service at Liverpool John Lennon Airport, but buses and taxis are readily available to and from Liverpool’s main station, where connections to Chester can be made. Most major rental car companies can be found at both airports.

Where to Stay in Chester

THE CHESTER GROSVENOR Chester’s only 5-star hotel provides the best in traditional British splendor, including Champagne teas and a full spa with thermal suite. Located in the city center next to the Eastgate Clock. 56-58 Eastgate St. $$$$$

EDGAR HOUSE Refurbished as a luxurious 5-star B&B, this beautiful Georgian home atop the City Walls overlooks the River Dee and was recently named winner of Best Small Hotel in the World by TripAdvisor. 22 City Walls $$$$

ODDFELLOWS High standards and a quirky history define this classical Georgian structure, once home to Oddfellows Hall. Room details range from freestanding roll-top baths to views of a secret garden. Close to the river. 20 Lower Bridge St. $$$$

Restaurants in Chester

SIMON RADLEY AT THE CHESTER GROSVENOR Michelin-starred since 1990, this elegant venue features sipping choices from more than 1,000 bins of world wines and dishes including heritage potato starters, Crown Prince pumpkins and delectable jammy figs. The Chester Grosvenor, 56-58 Eastgate St. $$$$$

STICKY WALNUT Rustic comfort is the theme here, with wild garlic tagliatelle and honeycomb ice cream on the menu. Located on Chester’s outskirts in Hoole, open for lunch and dinner. 11 Charles St. $$$

THE YARD Hip décor and a menu of modern Italian favorites have made The Yard a magnet since its 2015 opening. The Boardroom on the lower level offers private space. 26 City Road $$$$