Last summer, I was asked to be a keynote speaker at a marketing conference in São Paulo, Brazil’s largest metropolis and my home for three years when I was just a preschooler. Because this one-week business trip would mark my first time in the country since I was 5 years old, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to visit some of the places that helped form my earliest childhood memories. So I booked a side trip to Rio, the enchanted city my family used to visit for Carnival, the picturesque beaches and the famous Sugar Loaf Mountain some 40 years ago. My wife did not object to my extending my stay as long as I came back with recommendations for what we could do on a family trip to Rio that’s been on our calendar for several years.

To fulfill my promise, I devised a game plan for what I’d enjoy on my own and with the kids when we returned. That meant I didn’t have to forgo sampling the city’s celebrated samba music at the legendary clubs in the musically charged neighborhood of Lapa, or taking in the flashy nightspots and youthful bar scene in Leblon or Ipanema. It simply kept me from giving in to the famous powers of seduction of the Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvelous City).

Before leaving home, I learned that you can hike up Sugar Loaf instead of taking the customary glass-paneled cable car to its peak with the hordes of other tourists. Intrigued, and knowing my family would enjoy the experience, I contacted Rio Hiking when I arrived in Brazil to make sure there was room for me during my weekend in town. There was, so as soon as I had satisfied my conference responsibilities, I left for my reconnaissance mission in Rio.

I look for alternatives to hotels whenever I’m not traveling on business, and in Rio I discovered the warm and welcoming Rio Guesthouse, located on the top floor of a high-rise apartment building just off Avenue Atlantica on Copacabana Beach. The stunning views of the beach and Sugar Loaf Mountain would cost hundreds a night in a hotel; and Marta, who runs the place, helped me and the other guests, mostly Americans, with dining recommendations and arrangements.

Shortly after noon, one of our hiking guides, Eduardo, picked me up at the guesthouse. Six other hikers, none of whom had done any technical climbing, joined the five-hour excursion.

This seemed fine, since the promotional materials state that one need only be reasonably fit and that the hike is moderate to hard in difficulty (there’s no mention of footwear, but I recommend sneakers over hiking boots so you can get a good foothold on the steeper ascents).

The trip up Sugar Loaf consists mainly of hiking paths and steep trails through the forest that covers the granite mountain; but even though I consider myself sufficiently capable, it was more challenging than I expected. Everyone in the group managed to make it with various degrees of anxiety and effort, including a 14-year-old boy and his mother, who had a huge sense of accomplishment after completing the 80-foot technical climb that had us strapped into harnesses with safety lines. The guides did an excellent job of encouraging us and made sure we did not get hurt. They also filled us in on the city’s famous landmarks that are visible from the heights. The day’s only disappointment came when we reached the summit 1,300 feet above Guanabara Bay. As sometimes happens during Rio’s winter months of July and August, fog rolled in and our view was completely obscured. But no one seemed to mind, since we made it up without resorting to riding the aerial cable car.

After the hike, I asked my fellow climbers to join me for some feijoada, Brazil’s national dish — a delicious stew of black beans and assorted meats including dried tongue and pork. The dish is seasoned with salt, garlic, onion and oil and served over rice with shredded kale, orange slices and farofa (manioc flour sautéed with butter) to give it some texture. Wash it down with a caipirinha, a blend of high-proof sugarcane alcohol called cachaça mixed with crushed lime, sugar and ice, and you’ve proven yourself a true Brazilian. At Marta’s suggestion, we found the perfect spot at Casa da Feijoada in Ipanema, which also serves a variety of other Brazilian specialties for those who may not favor the heartiness of feijoada.

Although I didn’t have time to sample them, there are other hiking excursions and adventure sport options in the mountains and forests located just outside the city limits. The more adventurous will find some of the best hang gliding in the world off Pedra Bonita, one of the giant granite slabs that rise above the city. Fortunately, no experience is necessary since you fly in tandem connected to your instructor. The 15- to 20-minute flight lands you 1,500 feet below on the beautiful beach of Praia do Pepino in São Conrado and offers aerial views that are simply spectacular. But be warned that flights only go off when the weather permits, which can be tricky, particularly in the summer months.

Those seeking slightly softer adventure can head to Tijuca National Park, only a 15-minute taxi ride from the city center. Lauded as the largest urban forest on Earth, this tropical rainforest has a number of well-marked trails that wind among beautiful trees from all over the world, sparkling creeks, refreshing waterfalls, mountainous terrain and high peaks overlooking Rio. The forest is home to hundreds of species of plants and wildlife, including iguanas and monkeys that are only found here — a hit with the kids when the creatures are actually spotted. It’s a perfect outing for the family that also provides a reprieve from the heat of the city in the hot summer months. The park surrounds the Corcovado Mountain and one of the seven wonders of the world, Cristo Redentor, the statue of Christ the Redeemer. If you’ve already done enough hiking, the cog train runs straight up the mountain every 30 minutes.

Walking tours can give you an insider’s view of Rio. Visit one of the fascinating favelas in and around the city, hillside neighborhoods that are home to more than a million of the city’s poorest residents. To experience life in the favelas, you can take a guided tour, volunteer or even spend the night. Tours are arranged by Marcelo Armstrong, who donates part of the $35 tour fee to favela social projects. Tours of the more affluent and historical parts of the city are also available. Cultural Rio, led by the garrulous but extremely knowledgeable Carlos Rosquette, offers four-hour excursions throughout the city during the day and at night.

At the end of the day, however, Rio’s top attractions are probably what most often appeal to kids anyway: beautiful beaches and breaking waves. The sandy stretches of Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon are playgrounds for the young and old alike. Not only will you enjoy a great day at the beach with the family, you’ll see the local Cariocas in their element — and at their most natural, quite literally. The beaches are divided by postos, or posts, into sections for groups as diverse as the city itself. There are areas for gays, hippies and bohemian artists, volleyball players, surfers, kids from the favelas and, yes, even families, such as posto 12 in Leblon. Despite the incredible allure of the water, the Atlantic Ocean can get quite rough, with pounding waves and a strong undertow, so keep a close eye on the kids, which can be hard to do with all the distractions. Try to visit these beaches on Sunday when the main avenues along the beach are closed to car traffic but open for bicycle riders, skateboarders, Rollerbladers and joggers.

When I returned home, I was pleased to report to my wife that Brazilians are very family-oriented and that there would be plenty for us to do in Rio with the kids. The rest of the country also offers activities that interest families: more beautiful beaches in Salvador and Bahia, wildlife along the Amazon and the natural wonders of Iguazú Falls. Now the big question is, do we go for Carnival or

Info To Go

Galeão International Airport (GIG) is about 10 miles north of downtown. Most hotels offer car or van services to and from the airport. You can also reserve car service in advance with Rio Airport Transfer. Taxis are your next best bet; find a car outside the terminal and confirm the rate before you accept the ride. Fare to Ipanema or Copacabana is about $30 and takes about 30–40 minutes.

Lodging

Best Western Sol Ipanema Hotel
With 15 floors of stunning beachfront views, this premier property is ideal for business and family vacations. Av. Vieira Souto 320, Ipanema, tel 55 21 2525 2020 $$$$

Copacabana Palace
The continent’s most famous hotel, located right on Avenida Atlântica, was originally built in 1923. The pool is a major highlight. Av. Atlântica 1702, Copacabana, tel 55 21 2548 7070 $$$$

Rio de Janeiro Guesthouse
This good alternative to a big hotels is on the top floor of an apartment building; a large terrace overlooks Copacabana Beach. Rua Francisco Sá 5, Copacabana, tel 55 21 2521 8568 $$

Dining

Capricciosa
Very popular with Cariocas, this local hot spot serves a variety of pizzas which the kids will appreciate. Rua Vinicius de Moraes 134, Ipanema, tel 55 21 2523 3394 $$$

Carretão
Popular with both locals and tourists, this well-priced meat-lover’s churrascaria has a second location in Ipanema. Rua Siqueira Campos 23, Copacabana, tel 55 21 2236 3435

Casa da Feijoada
Considered a local institution, the restaurant serves some of the best traditional feijoada in town any day of the week. Rua Prudente de Moraes 10B, Ipanema, tel 55 21 2247 2776 $$$