The czech republic has changed so much in recent years you may find yourself thinking Prague feels more like a common man’s Paris than the capital of what was a communist country less than 15 years ago.

The place has a nice international vibe; cool, lively and artsy. And the westernization of Prague is so complete that on a recent visit we were asked, “Did you fly in from KFC?” “Uh, JFK,” we responded — but we did notice the abundance of American fast food venues, including Kentucky Fried Chicken outlets, in the city these days.

Prague is as magical as you have heard, a fairytale-land with castles on hills, a river running through it, lovely bridges, red rooftops and Gothic church steeples.

Post communism there are few reminders of the Soviet Union in sight although you may encounter hustlers at the airport and train station offering “cheap rides” to your hotel — be forewarned, take only licensed cabs.

Czechoslovakia was formed at the end of World War I, thanks in part to the efforts of U.S. President Woodrow Wilson. Germany invaded in 1939 (portions of the country were ceded to Hitler in 1938). The Communist Party seized power in 1948. Soviets invaded in 1968. After the citizens revolt known as the “Velvet Revolution” in 1989, which led to the removal of the communist regime, the new Czech Republic in 1993 divided from the Slovak Federal Republic into two separate countries.

Of the former communist countries, the Czech Republic, with a population of 10.2 million (1.16 million in Prague) has one of the most developed and industrialized economies, a well-educated population and a welldeveloped infrastructure. The country’s strategic location in Europe, low cost structure and skilled workforce attract foreign investment.

With principal industries including motor vehicles, machine building, iron and steel production, metalworking, chemicals, electronics, transportation equipment, textiles, glass, brewing, china, ceramics and pharmaceuticals, the country’s gross national product for 2005 was $109.3 billion. The Czech koruna has increased in value against the euro and the dollar, and has helped keep inflation low. (A member of the European Union since 2004, the Czech Republic plans to adopt the euro in 2010.) Foreign direct investment in 2005 was $10 billion, double that of the previous year, with the United States among the top investors. The economy grew by 6 percent in 2005.

And the picture just keeps getting rosier. Within the last two years in and around Prague, Toyota Peugeot Citroën Automobile opened a plant; Sun Microsystems opened a development center; Hewlett-Packard opened its headquarters for Eastern and Central Europe, the Middle East and Africa; GE Money opened a global service center and Honeywell opened its Global Aviation Center for Europe, the Middle East and Africa.

Making things even easier for business travelers: A World Trade Center office is expected to open this year at the Chamber of Commerce building (Frevova 27). Affiliated with the World Trade Centers Association, the office will arrange business appointments with Czech companies, rent conference rooms and such.

LODGING

RADISSON SAS ALCRON HOTEL

This hotel, in the center of the city just off Wenceslas Square, really stands out for its Art Deco opulence. Built during Prague’s Jazz Age in the 1930s as the city’s first real luxury hotel, it boasts a marble and glass lobby with period statues and furnishings. Guestrooms have marble bathrooms and WiFi access. The hotel has 192 rooms, 19 suites, two restaurants and a jazz bar. $$$-$$$$
RADISSON SAS ALCRON HOTEL
Stepanska 40
tel 420 222 820 000, fax 420 222 820 120
http://www.radissonsas.com

HOTEL PRAHA
This fortress-like, hilltop property in Dejvice, an upscale residential neighborhood, provides an enviable degree of privacy. The hotel has 124 guestrooms and suites, all with private balconies offering views of Prague Castle. Built in 1981 to house Communist Party big shots, the hotel is an odd mix of Old World lavish (crystal chandeliers) and modern (lots of stainless steel). There are two restaurants, an indoor pool, outdoor tennis courts, exercise room and sauna. $$$$
HOTEL PRAHA
Susicka 20
tel 420 224 343 305, fax 420 224 311 218
http://www.htlpraha.cz

HOTEL ARIA

This unusual boutique hotel receives lots of buzz for its musical theme: Each floor is designated by a musical genre and each room is
individually decorated to honor a particular artist. Five-star amenities include plush linens and bathrooms stocked with Molton Brown bath products. Downstairs you can book a screening room for private listening or viewing (there’s also a DVD library). Additional facilities include a fitness center with a steam room, and a restaurant, which, in summer, includes a rooftop dining area with views of the Mala Strana (Little Quarter). $$$$
HOTEL ARIA
Trziste 9
tel 420 225 334 111, 420 257 535 357
http://www.ariahotel.net

DINING

U MODRE KACHNICKY (THE BLUE DUCKLING)

This Mala Strana restaurant, in a district of narrow cobblestone streets and 17th and 18th century buildings, is in an old house with many small rooms, done up with antiques. Dine on Czech dishes including rabbit with garlic sauce and spinach with potato dumplings or roast duck with dried plum sauce and potato pancakes, while a good jazz pianist plays familiar tunes.Wash down your meal with an excellent pilsner in a city known for its beer. $$-$$$
U MODRE KACHNICKY
Nebovidska 6
tel 420 257 320 308
http://www.umodrekachnicky.cz

ALCRON RESTAURANT

At this 24-seat restaurant, Chef Jiri Stift, famous in the Czech Republic and once a chef on the QE2, prepares what is considered the finest seafood in town. Enjoy a multicourse tasting menu (dishes are
available a la carte as well) with such enticements as lobster with beurre noisette and monkfish with seared foie gras. Accompany the meal with good Czech wines. The restaurant space is a semi-circular room done up in Art Deco splendor and the service is superb. Reservations are required. $$$$
ALCRON RESTAURANT
Radisson SAS Alcron Hotel
Stepanska 40
tel 420 222 820 038
http://www.radissonsas.com

KAMPA PARK

The big treat at this restaurant is dining outside in summer on the patio overlooking the river, Prague Castle and the Charles Bridge. But even in winter you can sit by the windows at tables decorated with candles and enjoy the historic sights. Owner Nils Jebens is Prague’s celebrity restaurateur (he owns several restaurants) and his venues attract a celebrity crowd that has included Bill and Hillary Clinton and Johnny Depp. Menu highlights include grilled octopus and filet mignon, and the desserts are particularly lavish. Reservations required. $$-$$$$
KAMPA PARK
Na Kampe 8b
tel 420 296 826 102
http://www.kampapark.com

DIVERSIONS

In the Jewish Quarter, several synagogues and the Old Jewish Cemetery areopen as museums. Jews lived in Prague beginning in the 10th century, and before World War II the Jewish Quarter was home to a flourishing community that included Franz Kafka. It also is home to the legend of the golem, the Frankenstein-like mud monster that a Rabbi created as protector of the Jewish mystical text, the Kabbalah. The names of 77,297 Czech Jews killed by the Nazis are today written on the walls of the Pinkas Synagogue. To tour the area on your own, buy tickets for the museums at the Reservation Centre (U Stareho hrbitova 3, tel 420 222 317 191, http://www.jewishmuseum.cz), or at any of the sights. Or take a City Walks guided walking tour (tel 420 222 244 531, http://www.praguewalk ingtours.com), which departs daily at 2:30 p.m. from under the famous astronomical clock at the Old Town Hall.

The Charles Bridge is a 1,673-foot expanse built in the 14th century. A nighttime view of the city from the bridge is a must. Lighted boats flow under, pigeons circle church steeples above, Prague Castle looks glorious and the Baroque statues of saints that line the bridge appear heavenly in the moonlight.

The oldest portion of Prague Castle (Prazsky Hrad, Hradcanske namesti, tel 420 224 373 368, http://www.hrad.cz) dates back to 1135. It was palace to kings from the 13th to the 16th centuries and is home to Vladislav Hall, where indoor jousting once took place, along with royal banquets, coronations and such. The most historically significant building at Prague Castle is the Cathedral of St. Vitus, an elaborate Gothic structure dating back to 1344.

INFO TO GO

Prague Ruzyne Airport (PRG) is a fairly modern facility about 12 miles
northwest of downtown. There are two international terminals, one for flights within the European Union and the other for flights from the U.K., Ireland and non-European destinations including the United States. The easiest, cheapest way to get into the city is by Cedaz minibus (tel 420 220 114 296, http://www.cedaz.cz), which will take you to Republic Square, near Old Town, for about $4 (or directly to your hotel for $17 to $30 for up to four people). If you prefer to take a taxi, you can book one through Airport Cars (tel 420 220 113 892). The cost should be under $35 to your city hotel. (If you flag a cab,
beware of rip-off artists; agree on a price before leaving the airport.) If you arrive in Prague by train there are easy Metro connections from the main station, Hlavní nádrazí (Wilsonovaul, tel 420 224 224 200) to other parts of the city. A taxi ride from the main station to the city center should cost less than $5. The Metro is an easy way to get around Prague.There are also buses and tram lines. A threeday transportation pass good for all three is about $9.50 available at stations and newsstands). If you want to take a taxi in the city, arrange one through your hotel.