IN SALZBURG, WINE is a signature accompaniment to the endless nights of music, perhaps surprisingly, since beer is king. But Austria’s mountain gem is full of surprises. Catch an underground rock show, grab that classic lager or tuck in for dessert at a legendary coffee house — it vies with Vienna in laying claim to having invented café culture.

Start your evening nestled into the Altstadt, or Old Town, where Café Tomaselli still serves perfect cuppas 150 years after its founding. Nearby Café-Konditorei Fürst invented the irresistible Mozartkugel, a chocolate ball filled with nougat, marzipan and sometimes liqueur. But Salzburg isn’t locked in the past — 220 Grad prepares the city’s best third wave coffee. These and other cafés cluster near the central Residenzplatz and the Domplatz with Mozart’s birthplace, St. Peter’s Cemetery and the cathedral.

Though not as well-known as its oenological neighbors, Austria boasts a 4,000-year-old winemaking history. In Salzburg you can find a glass all over town, but start at Glüxfall, which transforms into one of the city’s best wine bars after dark, or Fridrich, which pairs its wines with a quirky soundtrack that veers from jazz to movie tunes.

Beer lovers should grab a stoneware stein at Augustinerbräu, one of the largest beer cellars in Europe. Tradition dictates communal tables, wooden kegs and zealously following its centuries-old recipe for Märzen beer. It’s been drawing locals and visitors alike since the 13th century. But there’s also the “newcomer”: Brewery Stiegl-Brauwelt, founded as recently as 1492!

Club life centers within the “Bermuda Triangle” between Steingasse and Imbergstrasse. Find popular discos like Half Moon at Gstättengasse and Rudolfskai. Salzburg also has a thriving LGBTQ scene. The most popular spot, MEXXX Gay Bar, right on the main street, Schallmooser, next to Kapuzinerberg hill, offers frequent discounts on drinks, including happy hour on Fridays and Saturdays.

For classical music events, which take place nearly every night, check with the tourist office. And hip Rockhouse, formerly a wine cellar in the 1840s, is now a premier alternative music spot, proving it’s not all Mozart in this lively little town.