Let’s be honest, Neapolitans have a love/hate relationship with their city. Naples can be rough; much of it is noisy, and the roadways are chaotic. But it is also romantic, filled with creativity and style and some of the best cuisine, art and scenery in Italy. Plus, it has an energy that makes other cities in Europe seem slow-moving in comparison.

Yes, Naples, with its large working-class population, is often bogged down with local government inefficiency and horrendous automobile traffic. The city rates near the bottom of most categories in the 2009 European Commission’s Quality-of-Life Survey of 75 European cities. Italy’s poorer southern region has long been troubled by organized crime, tax evasion and high unemployment, and this is reflected in how Neapolitans feel about their own local government. Most residents are not satisfied with the city’s transport system, its public facilities and amenities or the number of parks and gardens. Only 3 percent agree that “it is easy to find a good job in Naples,” and when asked to name the city’s three most glaring problems, they answer, “Jobs creation, air pollution and health services.”

Despite all this, Neapolitans are outgoing and friendly, passionate about their city and its long history of maritime superiority and cultural icons. Neapolitans are always ready to defend Napoli to someone from Roma, Milano or Torino. “I love Naples, but it is so difficult to live here,” they say, smiling and opening their arms wide — as if to hold all the hills and crowded streets and shaded piazzas and the wide, glittering Bay of Naples close to them. What they are really saying is, “Questa è ancora la migliore città del mondo” — “This is still the best city in the world.”

Naples was originally a Greek colony founded in the eighth century B.C. by seamen from Rhodes.They called the area Parthenope after the mythic Siren who, having failed to seduce Ulysses, threw herself into the sea and washed ashore here. The name was changed to Neapolis, Greek for “New Town,” until the Romans conquered it in 400 B.C., renaming it Napoli. Greeks took over again a hundred years later before it finally became an integral part of the Roman Empire. But the influence of the Greeks remains, especially in the early architecture of Roman-constructed buildings, including the Odeon and the temple of Castor and Pollux.

Much of Napoli street life revolves around the 18th-century Piazza del Plebiscito, the city’s largest square, with the Basilica of San Francisco di Paola on one side and the imposing red and gray stone Royal Palace on the other. Neapolitans gather in the square at twilight, enjoying the coolness of the evening, perhaps watching the swallows dart about or sipping a delightful caffe Gambrinus — espresso with cacao powder, milk foam, whipped cream and chocolate sprinkles on top — at the historic Gran Caffe Gambrinus.

Piazza del Plebiscito is a shining example of how progressive and efficient Naples can be when city officials — under pressure to beautify the city before the 1994 G7 Summit — spend time and money to create a wonderful public space. The project abolished auto traffic from the square, restored nearby historic monuments and buildings and installed flower boxes everywhere. Some 16 years later, the square is an island of breathtaking beauty and calm within a tumultuous city of over 1 million people.

Another modern development project completed on time and within budget is the Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Donna Regina (known as M.A.D.RE), a stunning modern art museum designed by the Portuguese architect Alvaro Siza, within the historic Palazzo Donna Regina. It displays eclectic works by modern artists including Cy Twombley, Andy Warhol, Jasper Johns and Damien Hirst in the same city where Caravaggio, Donatello, Bernini and the Renaissance sculptor Guido Mazzoni created their masterpieces hundreds of years before.

The project known as NapoliEst is one of the biggest city redevelopment projects in Europe. Residential construction, office parks and green space are transforming a formerly poor area of eastern Naples into an affluent and modern mini-city. In 2008, the architectural firm Scape was selected to develop additional housing and offices, a hotel, shopping facilities and more green space in NapoliEst for an estimated 120,000 new residents at a cost of about 150 million euros.

To complement the project, targeted for completion in 2018, MetroNapoli will extend Line 1 with connections to the area. So far, six stations along the line have been updated and improved with artwork. Additional plans call for world-famous architects — including Mario Botta, Richard Rogers, Dominique Perrault, Alvaro Siza and Eduardo Souto de Moura — to design several newer stations.

These developments, along with the ongoing modernization and expansion of the Centro Direzionale, the downtown commercial district, and its thriving port area have increased Naples’ gross national product to almost $45 billion, making it the 91st-richest city in the world in purchasing power. Opened in 1995, the 400-foot glass Telecom Italia Tower, headquarters of Italy’s largest telecommunications company and the country’s second-tallest building, is symbolic of the city’s emergence as an economic center even as it battles the lingering issues of unemployment and government inefficiency.

Diversions

Naples is all about people and food, and both are evident at its markets. The 15th-century Porta Nolana market (Piazza Porta Nolana, open 8 a.m.–2 p.m.) is where the city’s top chefs, and many home cooks, get their fresh shellfish, octopus, squid and swordfish, all still glistening from the Mediterranean. At La Tortretta (Via Giordano Bruno La Torretta), a covered market, you’ll find a good selection of mozzarella, beans and friarelli, a green vegetable that grows only here in the province of Campania.

Try to attend a ballet or opera at San Carlo Opera House (Via San Carlo 98, tel 39 081 797 2331), the oldest opera house in Italy, completed in 1737. Gaetano Donizetti and Gioachino Antonio Rossini are among the composers who have performed here. The opera house, with its magnificent interior, reopened in January after a two-year, $86 million dollar restoration.

Visit the Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Donna Regina (Via Settembrini 79, tel 39 081 193 13016) for modern art and the Museo di Capodimonte (Via Tito Angelini 22, tel 39 081 749 9111) for Italian art from the 13th century to the present. Among the numerous galleries are Alfonso Artiaco, Galleria Overfoto and Galleria Raucci/Santamaria.

Just south of Naples are the popular destinations of Mount Vesuvius, Sorrento, Positano, Pompeii, Capri and dozens of picturesque Amalfi Coast seaside villages. The entire area, easily accessible via boat, motor coach or private car, offers stunning scenery and historic sites for one-day or multi-day excursions from Naples.

If you want to get away from other tourists, go to the tiny, 1.5-square-mile island of Procida just off the coast of Naples. Take the hydrofoil or ferry from Beverello in Naples to the fishing village of Marina Grande (20–30 minutes, $13–15). No fancy shops or tour buses here, just narrow cobblestone streets, white and pastel houses on the hilly terrain and a few small cafés. Walk to Marina di Chiaiolella on the other side of the island and stop at Il Ristorante Galeone for a leisurely lunch at the marina. If you’ve fallen in love with Procida, get a room at one of the small B&Bs and return to Naples in the morning.

Lodging

Grand Hotel Vesuvio

The 1882 hotel features 163 elegant guestrooms, many with balconies overlooking Mount Vesuvius; a roof garden restaurant; and a large health club. Via Partenope 45, tel 39 081 764 0044, $$$$

Relais Posillipo

This quiet and charming 4-star hotel near the bay has 11 guest- rooms, some with balconies, and is convenient to museums. Buffet breakfast is included. Via Posillipo 69/1, tel 39 081 248 3193, $$

Romeo Hotel

Naples’ newest luxury hotel is stylish with 84 bay- or city-view guestrooms, Caprai linens, gourmet restaurants and a contemporary art collection. Via Cristoforo Colombo 45 tel 39 081 017 5001, $$$$

Dining

Don Salvatore

With a seaside location near the Capri ferry dock and several small dining rooms with water views, this is the place for grilled fish. Via Mergellina 5, tel 39 081 681 817 $$

Pizzeria La Notizia

Naples is hailed as the home of pizza, and this is the best in town: thin crust, fresh ingredients and dough that rises for 10 hours. Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio 53/55, tel 39 081 714 2155 $

Taverna dell’Arte

A yellow lantern beckons diners to this lovely restaurant serving traditional Italian dishes such as squid, beans maruzzara and paccheri pasta with anchovies. Rampe San Giovanni Maggiore 1/A, tel 39 081 552 7558, $$$