While the drama and history of ancient invasions and empire-building that define Naples are undeniably fascinating, the legend of the Greek siren Parthenope, who died and drifted onto the sands of the bay after her song failed to seduce Odysseus, is certainly more passionate and is a decidedly more alluring motivation for couples intent on discovering romance in Italy.

Despite recent bad press citing its ongoing garbage-collection woes, the city is still worth a visit. In fact, the garbage situation, which has been a fact of life in Naples for a number of years — albeit at shifting levels of intensity — is garnering more attention than usual in light of Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi’s resolution to solve the problem once and for all. Only time will tell whether or not Berlusconi is successful in his bid to rid Naples of its garbage problem — an unfortunate situation that may be more complicated than it would seem, depending upon the veracity of widespread reports of clashes between underworld bosses and government officials. For now, it’s best to proceed with a “forewarned is forearmed” philosophy: Expect the best, but be prepared for the worst. And never doubt the power of romance.

Naples is divided into six districts. Along the waterfront in the Castel dell’Ovo and Chiaia districts, a whitestone beach separates the water from the street traffic. On the islet of Magaris, Castel dell’Ovo abuts the charming Borgo Marinaro neighborhood. Sections of the castle date to the ninth century, and daily tours are available (tel 39 081 41 50 02). Also within this district is the Stazione Zoologica (http://www.szn.it), which houses one of Europe’s oldest aquariums.

From the Parco Margarita station a funicular train runs uphill to the Vomero district (funiculars operate from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, later on weekends, and depart every 10 minutes). Topping the hill is Castel Sant’Elmo, shaped like a six-pointed star and offering a panorama of Naples and the islands of Ischia, Capri and Procida.

Another funicular leads from Vomero down into the Toledo district, where ferries and hydrofoils depart for tours of the bay or to the islands. On Via Toledo visit designer shops or enter the imposing Palazzo Reale, constructed over the course of more than two centuries from 1600 to 1843. Inside, tour the sumptuous court theater, the royal apartments and the impressive Biblioteca Nazionale Vittorio Emanuele III (library tours by appointment, tel 39 081 781 92 31) which houses about 2 million volumes.

Large areas of the district of Spaccanapoli are closed to vehicular traffic, making it ideal for strolling, shopping or lingering over a cappuccino in the shade of a café umbrella. The Museo Civico Filangieri (Via Duomo 288, tel 39 081 20 31 75), a Renaissance structure with intricate mosaic floors, houses an impressive collection of art assembled by Prince Gaetano Filangieri.

Visit the Decumano Maggiore district to explore the renowned Duomo cathedral (Via Duomo 147, tel 39 081 44 90 97) and the Baroque church of San Gregorio Armeno (Via San Gregorio Armeno, tel 39 081 552 01 86). The massive Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Piazza Museo Nazionale 19, tel 39 081 44 01 66) displays one of the world’s most stunning archaeological collections, including the Alexander mosaic, recovered from nearby Pompeii and detailing Alexander the Great’s victory over Emperor Darius III; and the Farnese Bull sculpture, found in Rome at the Baths of Caracalla and dating to about 200 B.C.

Defined by the ornate and imposing Porto San Gennaro, the gate that leads to the c atacombs beneath the city, Capodimonte and I Vergini are filled with galleries and shops. Savor the day with a visit to Orto Botanico(Via Foria 223, tel 39 081 44 97 59), a 30-acre expanse of botanical gardens. And, when you’re ready to slip back into the present, don’t overlook the city’s vibrant nightlife with its plethora of theater, dance and music venues. You might even hear the chanting of a siren’s voice, wafting above the ancient streets.

LODGING

HOTEL CIMAROSA

Functional elegance defines this small hotel on Vomero Hill, with simple lines and smart design accessories in each of the 19 guestrooms. Four of the newly renovated superior rooms overlook the Gulf of Naples. All guestrooms include balconies for enjoying the view.$$$$
HOTEL CIMAROSA
Via Cimarosa 29, Vomero
tel 39 081 556 70 44
http://www.hotelcimarosa.it

HOTEL PALAZZO ALABARDIERI
Though Hotel Palazzo Alabardieri sits just off the Piazza dei Martiri within easy walking distance of many sites, its swish lobby — with its lemony yellows, wall murals and interior balconies — feels like a sunny garden. Citrusy colors accent the 33 guestrooms, which come equipped with Internet ports, safes and spacious bathrooms. The hotel, constructed within a former convent, boasts a bar, full business services, conference rooms and 24-hour desk service. A private high-speed boat service is available for transfers, day excursions or overnight adventures along the Amalfi Coast and to Ischia and Capri.$$$$
HOTEL PALAZZO ALABARDIERI
Via Alabardieri 38, Toledo
tel 39 081 41 52 78
http://www.palazzoalabardieri.it

RELAIS POSILLIPO
For a view with a room, this trendy glassfronted structure provides a vantage point in the historic quarter of Posillipo’s hillside neighborhood, overlooking the Gulf of Naples. Each of the 11 guestrooms has a balcony, a terrace or large viewing windows, while the blue-and-white color scheme reflects the seaside location. Spacious modern rooms come equipped with all the expected amenities. Breakfast is offered in the hotel’s cafeteria, but there’s no restaurant on site. $$$
RELAIS POSILLIPO
Via Posillipo 69/1
tel 39 081 248 31 93
http://www.relaisposillipo.com

DINING

DON SALVATORE
Fresh seafood complements romantic views of Mergellina’s harbor. Watch boats set sail for nearby Capri while enjoying a bottle from the impressive wine list. Owner Tonino Aversano’s menu of regional fare celebrates local produce grown in rich volcanic soil and fresh fish from the bay. Savor his cuisine in the tastefully appointed dining room or on the terrace. Reservations suggested.$$$
DON SALVATORE
Via Mergellina 4A, Castel dell’Ovo
tel 39 081 68 18 17

LA CANTINA DEL SOLE
This cozy spot in a historic district has a phone-book-size menu filled with authentic Neapolitan dishes from recipes dating to the 1600s. Specials change daily; opt for grilled seasonal vegetables and the local catch of the day, served with homemade pasta and a choice of six sauces. A good wine list features local vintages from grapes grown on Ischia, Capri and the slopes of Vesuvius.$$$
LA CANTINA DEL SOLE
Via Paladino 3, Spaccanapoli
tel 39 081 552 73 12

LOMBARDI A SANTA CHIARA
Locals flock here in the evenings for pizza, calzones and regional fare. Try the thin-crust creation with fresh mozzarella, spinach, basil and tomatoes. The lower level is casual (watch pizza makers at work), and upstairs is a fine-dining room where reservations are a must.$$$
LOMBARDI A SANTA CHIARA
Via Benedetto Croce 59, Spaccanapoli
tel 39 081 552 07 80

INFO TO GO

Most international flights to Naples Capodichino Airport (NAP) connect through one of Rome’s two major airports, Leonardo da Vinci/Fiumicino (FCO) and Ciampino (CIA). Think twice before renting a car in the city. Parking is scarce, streets are narrow, and drivers are aggressive. The subway (“Metropolitana”) is efficient and easy to navigate, even if you’re staying on the outskirts of the city. Trams operate throughout, and three funicular rail lines link the city’s center with Vomero. A fourth line provides service from the waterfront. Traffic is frequently congested, so buses and taxis are not ideal options. For short distances, walk or rent a scooter. Trains arrive at three main stations: Napoli Centrale in the city center, with links to the metro; Mergellina on the seafront; and Campi Flegrei in the Fuorigrotta neighborhood (http://www.trenitalia.com). Ferry and hydrofoil service connects Naples to the islands of Ischia, Capri and Procida in the bay. For more information about Naples, visit http://www.italiantourism.com and http://www.enit.it.