My last bottle of 2003 Montalto Riesling sits next to my computer, its surface developing a silky sheen of moisture as it warms. I’ve consulted the online tasting notes of Montalto’s winemaker, Robin Brockett, who says it will cellar well for another two to four years. I could save it for a special occasion. But he also remarks, “What a great wine, the best Riesling made so far at Montalto.” No kidding. My taste buds and nose go on high alert at the memory and my hands reach for the corkscrew. This is not one of those sticky, cotton candy Rieslings that give the variety a bad name. This Riesling is fresh, crisp, slightly tart and citrus-y, with spicy overtones. If Spring had a taste, this would be it.

On this cold winter day, I know that one sip will take me back to Australia’s Mornington Peninsula and the sunny deck of the Montalto Vineyard, which would then lead to memories of other wines and experiences during my Melbourne visit. The capital of Victoria, Melbourne is one of the only cities in the world with five distinct wine regions within a 90-minute drive of the city. The Mornington Peninsula alone is home to more than 170 vineyards.

The Melbourne area is a winelover’s dream, and it has the cuisine to go with it — free-range beef, chicken, emu, ostrich and kangaroo, and a plethora of seafood — all prepared in a multitude of ethnic dishes. Onequarter of the city’s 3.5 million people are from other countries, which makes for a diverse cultural mix with lots of festivals and holidays. There’s always something to toast or celebrate, including a lively, innovative art scene and major sporting events. It’s especially convivial during the Australian Open Tennis Championships in January, the Australian Formula 1 Grand Prix in March, the Melbourne International Flower and Garden Show in March and April, the Melbourne International Arts Festival and Comedy Festival in October and the Spring Racing Carnival — the Melbourne Cup — in November.

Don’t get me wrong. Life in Melbourne is not just about museumhopping and cheering from the sidelines. Melburnians like to work up an appetite, and their passion for activity, especially extreme sports, is infectious. Quaff a few VBs (Victoria Bitter, the local beer) with your new mates and you may find yourself signed up for something sporty the next morning, such as hang-gliding, skydiving, scuba diving, ballooning, mountain biking, sea kayaking, whitewater rafting, surfing, climbing or bush walking (an innocuous term for hiking in the wilds).

Melbourne has been called Australia’s sporting and cultural capital, but another sobriquet is “Garden City,” a nod to the Victorian-era gardens that provide delightful green spaces. There are also many historic buildings that hark back to the gold rush of the 1850s, when “Marvelous Melbourne,” not Sydney, was the country’s largest city.

More than 65 percent of international visitors to Australia go to Melbourne, and the city is an especially popular destination for North American visitors. It feels exotic, but the language is the same, though spiced with lingo the locals are happy to explain. Fries are called chips and potato chips are crisps. Underwear is knickers, a chicken is a chook, and a flashlight is a torch. But wine is wine, and the rest sorts itself out, mate.

“Melbourne is a favorite destination of our affluent clients and celebrities,” said Cass Colbourne, vice president of Scottsdale, Ariz.-based Golf Wine Travel (tel 888 607 1717, http://www.golfwinetravel.com). “The wine regions and other attractions are easy day trips from the city, so they can stay in one of Melbourne’s classy hotels and see and do a lot in a short time. It’s a safe destination and the Australians are very friendly people.”

Victoria is th e second smallest state in Australia, with about the same acreage as California. The topography and climate vary in the five wine regions. Across Port Phillip from the Mornington Peninsula is the Geelong region, where small estates produce their own inimitable wines. Not far from the airport is the Sunbury region, with vines dating to the 1800s and some memorable Shirazes and Chardonnays. Farther north are the Macedon Ranges, where there are wonderful cool-climate wines. To the east of Melbourne is the Yarra Valley, home to 55 wineries ranging from small family operations to the world-famous Chateau Yerling and Domain Chandon.

During the past decade, the shelves of American wine shops and supermarkets have filled with Australian wines, many from Melbourne, many of them Chardonnays, which Americans seem to favor.

I was a confirmed member of the ABC Club — Anything But Chardonnay — until my Melbourne visit. Out of politeness I finally tasted a local chard, and was surprised by the lack of oak. I learned from a vintner that Australian wineries use aged barrels rather than new ones, which makes the difference. I’m a convert. Melbourne chards are fresh and light, with almost no hint of oak. The Melbourne region, especially in the south where it’s cooler, excels in other whites such as the aforementioned Rieslings; rich, spicy Gewurztraminers and Pinot Grigios; fruity Sauvignon Blancs, and tangy sweet Semillons.

As for reds, if you think wines Down Under lack sophistication and nuance, then you need to try one of the award-winning Pinot Noirs. The Aussies have mastered this fickle grape, and steadily produce mediumbodied wines with intense flavor. Shiraz is another Australian specialty, ranging from a peppery, medium-bodied variety produced in cool climates to a full-bodied, berry-tinted version from warmer areas. The Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots are also notably rich and full-bodied.

On rare occasions I’ve been treated to the elusive and expensive Chateau d’Yquem of France. Its price is beyond my reach, but I was delighted to find reasonably priced versions in Melbourne of botrytis cinerea wines — the “noble rot” that produces a delectable dessert drink. I’m not a wine expert, and certainly not a wine snob, but based on a lifetime of travel I can safely say that wine and food lovers will find a lot to like in Melbourne.

LODGING

CROWN TOWERS

Located on the Yarra River near the business district, this 5-star hotel has dazzling views of the city or Port Phillip Bay from its 482 guestrooms, all of which have WiFi and 42-inch televisions. You can either wind down here, or rev your senses to the max. Start to relax in the jetted tub in your oversized marble bathroom or perhaps under the hands of a massage therapist in the Crown Spa. Work off tension in the high-tech gym or 82-foot indoor pool. Sate your hunger or your need for excitement in the Crown Entertainment Complex, with its cinemas, 24-hour casino and more than 40 restaurants and bars. $$$$
CROWN TOWERS
8 Whitman St., Southbank
tel 61 3 9292 6868
http://www.crowntowers.com.au

THE LANGHAM

The classic, understated atmosphere of this 5-star property takes hold as soon as you enter the foyer with its marble staircase, glittering chandeliers and waterfall. Guestrooms are elegant but warm and comfortable, in keeping with the Langham brand’s heritage as London’s premier hotel in the 1800s. The new Chuan Spa has a menu of 40 delightful treatments, and complements the Health Club, with its gym and lap pool. Overlooking the city and the Yarra River, the 387-room hotel is in the heart of the city’s art district, near the business district and a plethora of parks, restaurants, shops and sporting venues.$$$$
THE LANGHAM
One Southgate Ave., Southbank
tel 61 3 8696 8888
http://www.langhamhotelmelbourne.com.au

PARK HYATT MELBOURNE

There’s no trade-off here; you get comfort and convenience in a downtown hotel with a parkland feel. Located in one of the city’s most historic areas, the 240-room property is across from the Gothic St. Patrick’s Cathedral and next to the 19th century Fitzroy Gardens. It’s a short walk to the business district, artsy Federation Square and the popular Southbank area. The hotel’s guestrooms are spacious, with ample work areas and generous bathrooms fit ted with soaking tubs, showers and televisions. Laid out on five terraces is the hotel’s delightful Radii Restaurant, where you can enjoy Aussie cuisine fresh from farm or sea. Other amenities include a spa, indoor pool and rooftop tennis courts.$$$$
PARK HYATT MELBOURNE
1 Parliament Square
tel 61 3 9224 1234
http://www.melbourne.park.hyatt.com

DINING

THE COLONIAL TRAMCAR RESTAURANT

Plan ahead, because this unique dining opportunity books weeks in advance. The world’s first traveling tramcar restaurant consists of three 1927 cars converted into a restaurant on wheels, with plush burgundy carpet, velvet seats, polished brass, and linen-and-silver service. It’s a wonderful way to see city landmarks while enjoying a first-class meal in style and comfort. Stabilizers ensure that there’s hardly a tremor in the glasses of fine Aussie wines that accompany your multi-course lunch or dinner. Among the menu items are Tasmanian salmon, kangaroo loin and prime beef fillet, all prepared on the train.$$$$
THE COLONIAL TRAMCAR RESTAURANT
Normanby Road, corner of Clarendon Street, South Melbourne
tel 61 3 9696 3787
http://www.tramrestaurant.com.au

GROSSI FLORENTINO

This historic Italian restaurant is one of the most popular in the city. The main dining room — an elegant setting with chandeliers, polished brass and murals of Renaissance Florence — features classic Italian dishes with Aussie overtones, such as southern rock lobster with baccalà mantecato, buffalo milk mozzarella, caramelized onion, sorrel, salmon roe and olive crisp. The informal Grill has an open kitchen, extensive menu and wine list, and selection of antipasti on display. It’s perfect for a business lunch or pre-theater dinner. The cozy Cellar Bar opens early to serve fresh coffee and pastries, followed by an all-day traditional Italian menu, and closes after midnight.$$$-$$$$
GROSSI FLORENTINO
80 Bourke St.
tel 61 3 9662 1811
http://www.grossiflorentino.com

MONTALTO RESTAURANT

Located south of Melbourne in the Mornington Peninsula, the Montalto Vineyard and Olive Grove offers a feast for all of the senses, not just the taste of Mediterranean-inspired food and fine wines. Constructed of rammed earth walls and timber, with a floor-to-ceiling glass wall, the restaurant overlooks vines, olive groves, outdoor sculptures and paths leading down to the lake. In warm weather you can dine on the piazza or have the chef deliver a picnic hamper to your own private spot. The menu features local lamb, beef and seafood with vegetables, fruit and herbs from the Montalto gardens.
MONTALTO RESTAURANT
33 Shoreham Road, Red Hill South, Victoria
tel 61 3 5989 8412

DIVERSIONS

If you’re a golfer, then a round at the Royal Melbourne Golf Club(Cheltenham Road, Black Rock, Victoria, tel 61 3 9598 6755, http://www.royalmelbourne.com.au), 45 minutes from the city, is a must. Visitor play is allowed on weekdays. The oldest golf course in Australia, Royal Melbourne is ranked No. 1 in the country and among the finest in the world. Birdies may be scarce on your scorecard, but you’re likely to see plenty of the feathered kind. The course is home to 75 species of birds.

Birds of a different feather are the main attraction at Phillip Island (Newhaven, Victoria, tel 61 3 5956 7447, http://www.visitphillipisland.com), 90 minutes south of the city. Every year 3.5 million visitors flock to see the little fairy penguins surf ashore at sundown and waddle to their nests. Daytime activities include hiking, surfing or sunning on a choice of 26 beaches.

Less than an hour east of Melbourne are the mountains of the Dandenong Ranges National Park and the unusual William Ricketts Sanctuary (Mount Dandenong, tel 61 3 9751 1300, http://www.parkweb.vic.gov.au). From the 1930s until his death in 1993, Ricketts crafted 92 life-sized ceramic figures of animals and people and positioned them among the sanctuary’s trees, ferns and rocks.

If you’re longing for sea views, head west of Melbourne along the Great Ocean Road, which stretches 66 miles along the southern shore. It passes through seafaring villages with lots of maritime history, seafood restaurants and water sports venues. One of the attractions is the Twelve Apostles, towering rock formations standing in the surf that pounds the sea cliffs.

Wherever your day trip takes you, you’ll never be far from a winery, a cellar door (tasting room) or a café where you can enjoy good food and wine and mingle with the locals.

INFO TO GO

Twenty-three international airlines serve Melbourne Airport (MEL), which is also a domestic hub for Qantas, Virgin Blue and Jetstar. From North America, there are direct flights from New York, Toronto, Vancouver and Los Angeles. The airport has baggage lockers, restaurants, car rentals and ’round-the-clock foreign exchange kiosks. It’s a 25-minute drive to the city by shuttle bus, taxi or rental car. The departure tax (about $34) is often included in your airline ticket, but check to be sure.

It’s easy to get around Melbourne, which is laid out on a grid. One ticket purchased at a train station vending machine or newsstand gives you access to the city’s integrated network of trains, trams and buses. Train service extends to many outlying cities. The trams are fun, and the free City Circle Tram makes a 30-minute loop past many major attractions. Bright yellow cabs cruise the streets or queue at one of the many taxi totems. You can also travel by boat on the Yarra River or cycle the city’s extensive trail system.