I might regret this. Travel writers tend to keep one or two of their favorite places secret. If they happen to live in one of their favorite places, all the more reason not to rave about it in print. So let’s keep this between ourselves.

After visiting more than a hundred countries during my 30 years of professional traveling, I finally chose a place in which to settle. With the world to choose from, I chose the Peak District in the center of England.

If you haven’t heard of it, you’re not alone. The United Kingdom receives more than 30 million visitors each year, most of whom are content to tick off the headline attractions: London, Edinburgh, York, Bath, Stonehenge. The picture-perfect countryside is merely something to look at while going from one to another.

Protecting 555 square miles of hills and valleys, the Peak District National Park sits on the doorstep of several major industrial cities, including Manchester, Birmingham and Sheffield, and yet seems a world away from them. Footpaths traverse high, rolling fields enclosed by rugged stone walls and descend into dales — deep river valleys — remote from the stresses of modern life.

PHOTO: © RICHARD NEWTON

Towns and villages scatter the area. One such is Ashbourne, on the southern boundary. With its cobbled market square; spired church; and main street overhung with red, white and blue bunting, it represents the quintessential English market town, though with a twist. It remains one of the last strongholds of mass football, a game played here since the 12th century. For two days at the start of Lent, the town divides into two rival teams, and the town itself becomes the playing field. The aim is to carry the ball to one of two goals situated three miles apart. Thousands of people take part in what is officially known as Royal Shrovetide Football.

For the rest of the year, the town returns to tranquil normality and offers a popular gateway to the Peak District. A former rail line heading north out of Ashbourne has been converted into a 13-mile- long cycle and walking route, the Tissington Trail, which carves its way flatly through cuttings and tunnels and over embankments amid breathtakingly hilly countryside. You can rent bicycles in town.

PHOTO: © RICHARD NEWTON

The village of Tissington, about 4 miles from Ashbourne, has been owned by the FitzHerbert family since 1465. Their Jacobean mansion located in the center of the village opens for pre-booked private tours. Every year the village is the focus of another ancient Peak District custom: well dressing. Since the 14th century residents have elaborately decorated the village’s six wells with flower petals and other natural materials to mark Ascension Day. (In 2024 the wells will be dressed May 9–15.)

PHOTO: © RICHARD NEWTON

The Peak District’s greatest attraction is the countryside, abounding with hundreds of miles of marked footpaths of varying degrees of difficulty. One of my favorites, Dovedale, follows the course of the River Dove through a deep, meandering valley. At the start of the route, in the shadow of a pyramid-shaped hill known as Thorpe Cloud, walkers cross the river over footworn stepping stones. It’s an idyllic spot and serves as a prelude to a 3-mile-long trail, along which you’ll encounter dramatic rock formations and mysterious caves.

Farther north find the dramatic rocky outcrop of Robin Hood’s Stride, which looks like a ruined castle but is entirely natural. It served as one of the locations for the 1987 classic movie The Princess Bride. In a field close by you’ll find the Grey Ladies, four standing stones that are the remnants of a neolithic stone circle similar to Stonehenge.

People have lived here for millennia and have guarded their territory and traditions jealously. Come, by all means; you’ll be made welcome. But don’t tell everyone about the hidden heart of England.

LODGING
Biggin Hall Hotel & Restaurant
The hotel offers eight tastefully traditional rooms within the main 17th-century house, and 13 more in neighboring buildings. Ideally located for country walking and cycling in all directions.
Main Street, Biggin-by- Hartington, Buxton
$$$

The Devonshire Arms at Pilsley
Part of the Chatsworth Estate, country home of the Duke of Devonshire (although located in Derbyshire), this village pub has been modernized without sacrificing its “olde worlde” charm.
High Street, Pilsley, Bakewell
$$$

Wildhive Callow Hall
At a Victorian country house set in 35 acres of private grounds, stay in the main house or in one of the secluded wooden treehouses in the surrounding woodland.
Mappleton Road, Ashbourne
$$$

DINING
The Blind Bull
This beautifully restored 12th-century inn offers an unashamedly modern menu, with 80 percent of ingredients sourced from within 10 miles.
Little Hucklow, Buxton
$$$

Fischer’s at Baslow Hall
Eat in the exquisite country manor dining room or in the kitchen. Chef Adam Thackeray oversees a modern menu coupled with a carefully selected wine list.
Calver Road, Baslow, Bakewell
$$$$

Machine Inn
Occupying a former bank, this smart restaurant in the heart of Ashbourne offers modern British cuisine overseen by a Gordon Ramsay-trained chef.
6 St John St., Ashbourne
$$

INFO TO GO
The closest international arrival point to the Peak District is Manchester Airport (MAN), served by direct flights from several U.S. cities. A rental car proves the easiest way to get around, though an extensive network of bus routes links the main towns and villages. You can connect to them by taking the Skyline 199 coach from the airport to the town of Buxton.