With its labyrinth of narrow alleys considered to be among Europe’s most haunted sites, a medical school that dates back more than half a millennium, and a reputation as the hometown of some of the world’s most celebrated writers of the Victorian age (including Arthur Conan Doyle and Robert Louis Stevenson), Edinburgh might seem like a city stuck in the past.

And it is. Dominated by the 16th-century Edinburgh Castle and centered on its legendary Royal Mile, there’s no overlooking the fact that this city is old — and proud of it.

But the maturity of this destination is part of its appeal to corporate travelers who are drawn by its numerous universities and research facilities. Edinburgh’s role as a hub for scientific endeavors — the Centre for Regenerative Medicine and its stem cell investigations and the BRE Centre for Fire Safety Engineering at the University of Edinburgh — has earned worldwide attention.

Its service sector, in particular financial and banking, is another of Edinburgh’s strongholds. The Bank of Scotland was established in 1695 by an act of the original Parliament of Scotland. Today the Royal Bank of Scotland is the world’s fifth-largest bank, and Edinburgh holds the title as Europe’s sixth-largest financial center.

Publishing and electronics are also important factors in Edinburgh’s growing economy. Recently Dell, in spite of cutbacks in its global workforce, announced plans to expand its Edinburgh operation.

Tourism continues to grow in importance, and the city makes special efforts to attract business travelers — a market worth more than $583 million to the metropolitan area and nearly $1.8 billion to Scotland as a whole. Meetings and conventions play a vital role: Edinburgh holds the title as the top U.K. city for international association meetings. As the seat of Scottish Parliament, Edinburgh is a natural draw for domestic meetings as well.

LODGING

BALMORAL HOTEL

A member of the Rocco Forte Collection, this elegant hotel is located next to Waverley Station in Edinburgh’s shopping district. The property’s 188 guestrooms and suites, fresh from a $13.6- million refurbishment, offer views of Edinburgh Castle, Old Town or the hotel courtyard. Guestrooms, equipped with two phone lines, a fax/modem line and a broadband Internet connection, offer a quiet retreat complemented by natural fabrics, Scottish artwork and blankets specially designed for the hotel. Along with its fine dining, the hotel is especially noted for its spa, which includes a Turkish steam room, sauna, indoor pool and gym.$$$
THE BALMORAL HOTEL
1 Princes St.
tel 44 131 556 2414
http://www.thebalmoralhotel.com

THE GEORGE HOTEL
Named for its location on George Street, this historic hotel is a top choice for meetings and events. A renovation of existing guestrooms was completed in 2007, and the property is currently in the process of an expansion that will increase its room count to 250. The $39-million project will include the addition of a rooftop lounge and a mini-spa. Some rooms have views of the Firth of Forth while others overlook Edinburgh Castle. $$$
THE GEORGE HOTEL
19-21 George St.
tel 44 131 225 1251
http://www.principal-hotels.com

THE SCOTSMAN

Housed in the historic former Scotsman Newspaper building, this hotel boasts repurposed space: The former press room is now home to the hotel gym, and the old advertising offices make up the new penthouse suite. The smallest guestrooms, known as the Study rooms, feature wireless Internet access, a printer, a DVD player, an Edinburgh Monopoly game and a trouser press. Move up to Editor status and you’ll have all of the above plus a view of Princes Street or the Firth of Forth , oak paneling, an ornamental fireplace and even a turret with a rolltop bath. $$$
THE SCOTSMAN
20 North Bridge
tel 44 131 556 5565
http://www.thescotsmanhotel.co.uk

DINING

THE ATRIUM RESTAURANT

With a wine list that has twice been voted the best in Scotland by AA Guide, The Atrium is often heralded as the best eatery in Edinburgh, a favorite among visiting celebrities. The sophisticated restaurant, named for its soaring, cathedralstyle atrium, serves a varied menu. Many dishes have Scottish roots executed with a gourmet flair — pan-fried halibut with spinach and ricotta gnocchi, roast venison loin, and duck breast with roast pumpkin.$$$
THE ATRIUM RESTAURANT
10 Cambridge St.
tel 44 131 228 8882
http://www.atriumrestaurant.co.uk

THE WITCHERY

Located near the gates of Edinburgh Castle, The Witchery is set in a 16thcentury building at the top of the Royal Mile. The historic atmosphere radiates throughout the dining room, incorporating gilded ceilings and paneling from the nearby St. Giles Cathedral. Lunch and dinner are served in this much-lauded eatery where dishes — Shetland salmon poached in olive oil, loin of roe deer, and rabbit wrapped in Parma ham — highlight typically Scottish ingredients.$$$
THE WITCHERY
The Royal Mile
tel 44 131 225 5613
http://www.thewitchery.com

DUBH PRAIS
Located on the Royal Mile halfway between Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace, this intimate cellar venue serves both lunch and dinner. From it’s touch-ofplaid decor to its extensive menu, Dubh Prais is authentic Scottish through and through. Specialties of the house include salmon, sole, Aberdeen Angus beef, haggis and game including pheasant and venison. There’s also a world-class wine list and a comprehensive whisky menu boasting selections to please any palate. $$
DUBH PRAIS
High Street
tel 44 131 557 5732
http://www.edinburgh-royalmile.com/dubh-prais

INFO TO GO

Edinburgh Airport (EDI) is located about eight miles west of the city.

Taxi fare into the city costs about $35 to $40 with service available from the airport taxi rank; no reservations are necessary. The Edinburgh Shuttle (tel 44 845 500 5000, http://www.edinburghshuttle.com) also offers mini-bus service from the airport for about $15.

Excellent rail service is also available into Edinburgh. The city is served by the Great North Eastern Railway (GNER) line, which is the fastest intercity line in the United Kingdom; service from Edinburgh’s Waverley Station to London’s King’s Cross Station is just under five hours.

Once in Edinburgh, travelers find that many downtown locations are within walking distance, although taxi service is readily available. Lothian Buses (tel 44 131 555 6363) offers bus service from the airport as well as city bus tours and night buses; First Buses (tel 44 870 872 7271) provides travel within the city and outlying areas.

DIVERSIONS

The city center, home to many of Edinburgh’s financial institutions and industries, is also the location of its top attractions. The downtown area is divided by the Princes Street Gardens, a wide public park that dates to the 1820s.

To the south of the gardens is Edinburgh Castle (Castle Hill, tel 44 131 25 9846, http://www.edinburghcastle.biz) and Old Town. The castle — easy to spot thanks to its perch on an ancient, long-dormant volcano — is the city’s top tourist attraction with numerous buildings and exhibits, including the Stone of Destiny, a slab of sandstone upon which the monarchs of Scotland are crowned. Other attractions include the Mons Meg, a 15th century siege gun; the formal royal apartments; the 12th century St. Margaret’s Chapel; and the One O’Clock Gun, fired so regularly on six days each week that both residents and visitors set their watches by it.

From the castle at the top of the Royal Mile, it’s a downhill walk to the Queen of England’s Scotland palace, Holyrood (Canongate, The Royal Mile, tel 44 131 556 5100, http://www.royalcollection.org.uk). Built in 1128, the palace is open to the public from March through October and on a few special occasions through the year (but never when the Queen is in residence).

The Royal Mile, lined with shops, pubs and restaurants, is the place to shop for tartans, Celtic jewelry, Scottish whisky, cashmere and other local goods. History buffs also enjoy this area where the medieval plan of the city and many of its Reformation- era buildings comprise a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

New Town, on the north side of the Princes Street Gardens, is also a UNESC O World Heritage Site (a hint that this area is not so new). Constructed between 1765 and 1860, New Town now makes up much of the central part of Edinburgh and is known for its neo-classical architecture. It is home to the National Gallery of Scotland (The Mound, tel 44 131 624 6200, http://www.nationalgalleries.org).

Although much of the royal history of Scotland is within the city center, travelers have to head to Leith Harbour to visit the HMY Britannia (Ocean Terminal, Leith, tel 44 131 555 5566, http://www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk). The one-time royal yacht, still a regal presence, is open for self-guided tours. Queen Elizabeth II once described the Britannia as the one place she could relax. Today, visitors get a glimpse into the royal life as they tour officers’ quarters, the queen’s bedroom and the State Dining Room.

Edinburgh is also known as the festival capital of Europe, starting with Hogmanay (http://www.edinburghshogmanay.org), the largest New Year’s celebration in the world. Each August (a time when hotels are heavily booked), crowds pack the city for the Edinburgh Military Tattoo (http://www.edintattoo.co.uk) at Edinburgh Castle; the International Festival (http://www.eif.co.uk), featuring a program rich in classical music, theater and dance; and the Fringe Festival (http://www.edfringe.com), the world’s largest open-access arts event.