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Eclectic Luxembourg

by Joe Baur

Sep 1, 2017
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THE FIRST THING TO IMPRESS any traveler to the City of Luxembourg is the history, so much so that locals joke a 15th-century building is practically modern. Indeed, this highly international city where foreign nationals account for nearly two-thirds of the population has as much to offer a Europhile traveler as any other more-traveled destination on the continent.

Walking the cobblestone streets of Grund after an evening rain feels practically Parisian, except you’ll be hard-pressed to spot the tourists. Of course, it doesn’t hurt that French is one of the country’s three national languages. Luxembourgers start off learning to write German, and they watch German television, but French (at least in the city) is the de facto language in social settings, while Luxembourgish, a linguistic mix of French and German, is spoken at home. English is taught in schools starting at age 14, and you’ll even hear a fair bit of Spanish and Dutch (those are your tourists), so many Luxembourgers learn those languages, as well.

This international flair juxtaposes with a strong national identity that historically refused to be swallowed up by Germany and recently declined to make citizenship easier by lessening the Luxembourgish language requirement. It may be a small country, but it is very much its own country.

Business travelers visiting the convention center find they’re not attending just another large event space. Luxembourg does business at the European Convention Center Luxembourg in the Kirchberg neighborhood overlooking the historic city. The Meliá Luxembourg hotel sits right next to the convention center, making it an easy choice for visitors on business. Another option is Hotel Sofitel Luxembourg Europe, directly across the street. Otherwise, you’ll most likely look for lodging in the city center, but remember you’ll rely on public transport to get back and forth between town and the convention center — unless you don’t mind hiking uphill in a suit.

As throughout most of Europe, public transportation provides a great option for navigating around town. If you’re arriving at Gare de Luxembourg (the main train station), simply hop on the 195, 125/1 or 16 bus lines for just a handful of stops until you’re dropped off at Symphony Hall (bonus points if your convention overlaps with a show — bring your formal wear). From the airport, grab the 16 bus, which stops in Kirchberg before heading into the city center.

Fort Thüngen and Museum of Modern Art

Fort Thüngen and Museum of Modern Art © MADRABOTHAIR | DREAMSTIME.COM

If you’re coming anytime soon, you’ll notice a bit of construction on Avenue John F. Kennedy on the northern end of the convention center. Luxembourg is bringing back tram lines after removing them decades ago. They’re scheduled to open in different stages, with the first part in Kirchberg slated to open at the end of 2017. The rest will come 2019–2021.

Now on to the important stuff: food and entertainment. Though the city is relatively small — with just about 100,000 residents — it is still a dense European city with plenty of fantastic options within walking distance of each other. Whether you’re looking for a night on the town at the end of your business trip or to share a nice meal with your colleagues, Luxembourg does not disappoint. That said, a few establishments stick out.

Breakfast here is, indeed, European, with hotels offering morning meals. The Meliá and the Sofitel follow suit. A popular lunch spot will take you into the old town to Oberweis. Try the chicken vol-au-vent for a traditional, hardy Luxembourg meal (but do bring a second stomach).

Italian sensibilities are well-covered here, with both L’Osteria and Ristorante Essenza in the city center. Both of these smart, casual establishments work well for business dinners. Feel free to grab a bottle of Luxembourg white wine to go with the meal.

Nearby Clausen is a neighborhood generally seen as catering to the younger party crowd, but it’s also home to Restaurant Ukulele (a Thai foodie favorite among the locals) and Big Beer Company if you’re looking for a more casual business dinner. If you’re staying up in Kirchberg and prefer something within walking distance and sans public transport, Restaurant Clé de Sol and La Table du Belvédère sit right next door to the convention center and the area hotels.

Afterward, if you’re feeling celebratory, the walk over to Café des Artistes in the Grund neighborhood is an essential visit for anyone who enjoys live, traditional music and general merriment. Café des Artistes, though styled after an early-20thcentury Parisian establishment, is made firmly Luxembourg with its rotation of amateur piano players hammering out national classics that get the whole bar singing along. Not to worry, they’ll throw in something like Queen’s “Bohemian Rhapsody” for the English-speaking crowd. Or you’re welcome to step up and tickle the ivories yourself.

Whatever you do, save some time to walk around Luxembourg City. Do the walk down from Kirchberg at least once and marvel at Fort Thüngen before winding downhill along a mix of paved walking paths and a dirt trail before dipping into quieter, residential areas just outside of the city center. Walk the bridges for sweeping cinematic views of the city that seem perfect for the next romantic classic. Then shoot back to reality by looking down from the Passerelle Bridge at Skatepark Péitruss, where young Luxembourgers grind the rails and ride their BMX bikes throughout the day.

If you’re lucky, you might even get a little rain at night, because — Paris, eat your heart out — there’s a palpably special, even romantic, sensibility about the way the water glistens over those Luxembourg cobbles from Grund to the Palais Grand-Ducal.

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