ABOUT HALFWAY UP THE outer arch of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, I attempt to relieve my state of panic with the recommendation from tour company BridgeClimb’s website: “If you feel wobbly or light-headed, it can be comforting to ground yourself. Push your feet in your shoes against the solid pathway. Squeeze the hand rails to remind yourself that everything is sturdy and safe and you are in control.”
I press my foot against a gunmetal steel beam and cling onto the rail along the edge of the bridge, trying not to focus on the eight lanes of traffic whizzing by below.
I am on a three-and-a-half-hour hike up Sydney’s grand dame of bridges, mostly to see the sweeping views of the Sydney Opera House and downtown skyline, but partly to confront and possibly overcome a personal fear of heights. The 440-foot-high Sydney Harbour Bridge, the world’s largest but not longest steel arch bridge, is a Sydney icon, connecting the northern and southern shores of dazzling Sydney Harbour.
Several dramatic bridge crossings were precursors to those organized by BridgeClimb. In 1973 French high-wire daredevil Philippe Petit set up a wire between the two pylons at the southern end of the bridge and crossed over. History also has it that after the original opening ceremony in 1932, some members of the public unofficially began climbing up the arch, 66 years before BridgeClimb opened.
Since 1998 BridgeClimb has made it possible for tourists to officially climb the southern half of the bridge. The company touts it has helped more than 3.2 million people from 137 countries around the world reach the summit.
There is a less daring way to cross the bridge, on its pedestrian walkway along the eastern side, with overlooks from the South-East Pylon. BridgeClimb also offers other options: the BridgeClimb Express, which traverses steel paths to the top rather than walking along the outer arch, and BridgeClimb Sampler, which goes only halfway up. But the traditional BridgeClimb offering appeals to my spirit of adventure and forces me to face my fears.
The day of my climb is a sunny spring afternoon, though there is a noticeable strong breeze even at ground level. My climbing guide comments on the high winds but assures me there is no danger, noting the bridge was designed to withstand hurricane-force winds of about 120 mph.
I sign a waiver and complete a breathalyzer test as well as attend a thorough safety briefing. Next, I gear up with a jumpsuitstyle BridgeSuit outerwear and fleece along with harnesses, a handkerchief and a headset to hear the guide. I join a small group of others for a demo and training run as we practice moving harnesses, latching onto hooks and climbing ladders.
The real deal begins from The Rocks area of the city. After hooking on at the climb base below the roadway, we start on the initial section, which entails a series of catwalks to the South-East Pylon and affords a literally breathtaking view. Though Bridge- Climb guests are not allowed to bring cameras for safety reasons, there are pictures taken for purchase after the climb.
The next section turns out to be the most mentally challenging, as I ascend a series of four ladders to reach the upper arch. Rather than dwell on the long drop below, I try to focus on my guide, who regales me with stories about the history of the bridge. She reveals construction began in 1923, with more than 1,400 workers involved, and took more than eight years to build at a cost of $4.2 million. The arch construction itself began in October 1928, starting with the southern end of the bridge, followed by the northern end.
The real cost of the bridge, though, was in the 16 lives lost. This year the State Library of New South Wales marks the 85th anniversary of the Sydney Harbour Bridge by releasing a collection of interviews with the people who built it. Other casualties during its construction included the loss of homes of up to 800 families living along its path whose dwellings were demolished. Yet for all its hardships, the result is a simple yet majestic structure overlooking the largest natural harbor in the world.
During my climb I tighten my grip as the wind picks up along the outer arch in the final part of my ascent. Taking a deep breath and without looking straight down, I cross the top of the bridge, or spine, marked by two fluttering flags — one the Australian flag and the other for New South Wales — before heading back down the other side. The climb proves less daunting than anticipated thanks to a secure harness and encouraging guide, well worth a few heart flutters in exchange for the vantage point over spectacular Sydney Harbour.
My reward at the end is a cap and certificate of achievement, which I will hang as testament to my bravery in confronting my own fears and completing one of Sydney’s highlight attractions.
Sydney Info to Go
Sydney Airport sits about 13 minutes by train from the city. There are train stations located at both the international and domestic terminals, which operate as part of the Airport Link service. Sydney Buses are also available into the city, including Route 400, between Bondi Junction and Burwood, which stops at both the international (T1) and domestic (T3) terminals.
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