Four hundred miles north of bustling Bangkok, Chiang Mai moves at a slower pace. The northern capital of Thailand, and 13th century seat of the Lanna Thai Kingdom, is a relaxed alternative where a focus on culture and arts supersedes commercial obsession.

Located on the banks of the Ping River, the city’s heritage is grounded in the traditions of myriad tribal communities and a strong base in Buddhism. The “Rose of the North” — a moniker that describes its setting amid rice fields, jungles and mountains — is home to a wealth of stunning wats, or temples, some of which date to the 13th century.

If you can only visit one temple, make it Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (http://www.doisuthep.com/english.html). The city’s most visible (and some say most important) landmark is said to house a relic of Lord Buddha. According to legend, a white elephant (a revered Thai symbol) set out carrying a piece of Lord Buddha’s shoulder bone. The temple stands where the elephant finally rested after its long journey. You’ll have to climb about 300 steps to reach the 14th century mountain temple (a great way for kids to burn off excess energy) or hop aboard the tram (less than $1) for a quicker trip to the top.

Back at the base of Doi Suthep, stop by the Orchid Jade Factory (tel 66 53 295 021, http://www.orchidjade.com) where staff will greet you at the door with a (much-appreciated) cold beverage. Your visit includes a short video on the origins of jade and an opportunity to watch talented craftspeople ply their trade. You’ll also find a stunning collection of jade jewelry available for purchase at prices far below U.S. retail.

Kat Warorot Market, the largest food market in the city, is an exciting frenzy of activity (seek out a vendor offering samples of fried pork rinds, a local specialty) and the Night Bazaar on Chang Klan Road is a giant, crazy collection of hundreds of stalls selling everything from ceramics to jewelry to wood products. Skip the threestory indoor market packed with mass-produced “collectibles” and focus instead on the outdoor market where you’ll find a plethora of local wares that make great souvenirs. Bargaining is acceptable, but don’t push too hard. Make sure to hold onto the hands of little ones, as the masses of people can become overwhelming at times.

LODGING

D2 HOTEL
Right in the heart of town, this stylish 131-room boutique hotel is located just steps from the Night Bazaar. Guestrooms feature local handicrafts, but don’t confuse that design aspect with traditional décor. The primary color here is bright orange. Despite its modern look and trendy feel, D2 welcomes kids. Fun touches include fortune cookies at turndown. There’s an outdoor swimming pool and babysitting services are available. Don’t miss the daily shift change when the front-desk staff performs a choreographed song and dance number.$$$$
D2 HOTEL
100 Chang Klan Road
tel 66 53 999 999
http://www.d2hotels.com

FOUR SEASONS RESORT CHIANG MAI
If a resort situated in 20 acres of gorgeously landscaped grounds, complete with a working rice farm and a family of water buffalo, sounds intriguing, wait until you get a load of this property. As expected at any Four Seasons, the accommodations and services are top-notch, but it’s the setting in the Mae Rim Valley that makes this property a standout. The resort includes 64 750-square-foot pavilion rooms each with an outdoor sala, or terrace, but families should consider staying in one of the 16 one- to three-bedroom residences, some with a private plunge pool. A stunning infinity pool overl ooking the rice fields is open to all guests. The resort is about 20 minutes north of Chiang Mai and the airport. Complimentary shuttle service provides five-timesdaily transportation to a drop-off point at the Night Bazaar. $$$$
FOUR SEASONS RESORT CHIANG MAI
Mae Rim-Samoeng Old Road
tel 66 53 298 181
http://www.fourseasons.com

SOFITEL RIVERSIDE CHIANG MAI
With just 74 guestrooms and suites, this hotel feels like a private retreat, yet it’s conveniently located in the city center just steps from the Ping River and convenient to the Night Market. All rooms have balconies with river or pool views, although the kids might pay more attention to the video games on the in-room entertainment system. There are two restaurants on the property and, for the adults in your party, a spa, sauna and fitness center.$$$$
SOFITEL RIVERSIDE CHIANG MAI
33 Chang Klan Road
tel 66 53 999 333
http://www.sofitel.com

DINING

OLD CHIANGMAI CULTURAL CENTER

For an overview of Lanna history and culture, as well as a delicious meal, visit the Old Chiangmai Cultural House where you’ll experience a traditional khantoke meal. (Khantoke refers to the round tray on which food is served.) The three-hour event serves as both dinner and entertainment. Costumed dancers perform during dinner. After your meal, you’ll move outside to witness a folkloric hill tribe show. $$$
OLD CHIANGMAI CULTURAL CENTER
185/3 Wualai Road
tel 66 53 202 9935
http://www.oldchiangmai.com

THE GALLERY

Part art gallery; part restaurant, The Gallery dates to 1892 when it was built as a store by the current owner’s grandfather. For a while it served as the family home, but since 1989 it has been a restaurant. The menu reflects local specialties, but Western dishes are also on offer. You’ll even find spaghetti Bolognese or German pork knuckles and cabbage! Check out local artists’ work before dinner. Live music entertainment takes center stage later in the evening.$$
THE GALLERY
25-27-29 Charoen Raj Road
tel 66 53 248 601
http://www.thegalleryrestaurant.com

THE RIVERSIDE
On the banks of the Ping River, very centrally located, you’ll find this boisterous restaurant. Later, the restaurant turns into two musical venues, but for an early family dinner it’s ideal. The extensive menu features both Thai and Western fare. The kids’ menu offers traditional items tots will recognize, such as hamburgers and chicken, but the more adventurous might go for the Fantasy Fried Rice or noodle soup. If you feel like a dinner cruise down the river, that’s available too, but book early; it’s quite popular.$-$$
THE RIVERSIDE
9-11 Charoen Raj Road
tel 66 53 243 239
http://www.theriversidechiangmai.com

INFO TO GO

The Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX) is the major gateway to northern Thailand. It is about two miles from the city center and serves more than 2 million passengers a year. About 130 flights a week arrive from Bangkok alone. Thai Airways, Bangkok Airways, Air Asia, Nok Air, Orient Thai Airlines, Air Andaman and Phuket Air operate several flights daily between Bangkok and Chiang Mai. A 10-minute taxi ride gets you into town or you can pick up a rental car at the airport.

Once in the city, tuk-tuks, three-wheeled passenger bikes, are a quick way to go short distances. Be prepared to negotiate a bit. Fares on tuktuks range from less than $1 to about $2. Settle on a price before you settle in for the ride. There’s also a city bus. Fares average less than $1.

For more information, visit the Tourism Authority of Thailand at http://www.tourismthailand.org.

DAY TRIP

The National Elephant Institute (tel 66 54 228 108, http://www.thailandelephant.org) in the Lampang Province, about 40 miles fr om Chiang Mai, is well worth the trip. A nonprofit center run by the Forest Industry Organization, the institute’s central mission is to preserve Asian elephants from extinction. It operates a training center for mahouts (guides) and a veterinary program, in addition to an elephant release project. On-site demonstrations include elephants performing traditional logging tasks and elephant rides. While the performance programs might seem exploitive to some, elephant tourism is a fact of life in Thailand. The institute’s goal is to promote elephant conservation in a safe and sustainable manner.