In a presidential election year, it’s easy to think of the nation’s capital as a company town — that company being the government. But now more than ever, Washington, D.C., has much more to offer than its role as the home of the federal government and the nexus of national politics. And the offerings are pleasing to visitors and locals alike. Lower crime. A robust job market. A real estate boom. More cultural offerings. A new convention center. The transformation of once derelict neighborhoods into urban chic. Chitchat at cocktail parties these days doesn’t revolve around Bush or Kerry but rather real estate prices and Major League Baseball.

Real estate is on the minds of almost all Washingtonians. The District of Columbia now ranks at the top in terms of national and international real estate investment. Residents who bought homes just a few years back have seen their values skyrocket. For example, according to The Washington Post, the average home price in Virginia’s Fairfax County, home to numerous technology companies and a bedroom community for federal employees, jumped 83 percent over the past five years, from $195,713 to $357,506. If you’re lucky, $350,000 might get you an average one-bedroom apartment in one of D.C.’s hotter neighborhoods — if you can prevail in the bidding war.

Of course, the boom adversely affects the area’s poorer citizens who are being priced out of housing. Fortunately, the district has added more than 12,000 new units of low-income housing in recent years, thanks in part to the efforts of Mayor Anthony A. Williams, who has helped bring the city out of bankruptcy. Washington, D.C., which once had deficits up to $600 million, now has a $1 billion budget surplus. There’s good news on the job front, too. The Washington Post characterizes the area’s job market as “hopping” with significant increases in business and professional services.

It looks like Williams may have succeeded in his bid to add a few baseball jobs to the roster. The mayor, who spearheaded an initiative to keep the good times rolling by bringing Major League Baseball back to Washington after an absence of three decades, is about to see his efforts pay off. In September, Major League Baseball selected the Washington, D.C., proposal as its choice for relocation of the Montreal Expos. Relocation of the club is subject to certain contingencies, including a formal vote of ownership at the next owners’ meeting in November and passage of legislation by the District of Columbia Council to provide for financing and construction of a ballpark on the Anacostia River waterfront in Southeast Washington. The D.C. agreement also includes financing for the refurbishing of RFK Stadium, where the Washington franchise will play until a new stadium is completed.

Baseball fans or not, visitors to Washington, D.C., still have plenty to see. In the last year alone, the Washington area has gained a handful of new attractions. The most recent is the National Museum of the American Indian (www.nmai.si.edu), which opened in September. Chartered by Congress as the 16th museum of the Smithsonian Institution, NMAI has one of the largest and most extensive collections of Native American art and artifacts in the world — approximately 800,000 objects representing more than 10,000 years of history, from more than 1,000 indigenous cultures throughout the Western Hemisphere.

One of Washington’s most popular museums, the Smithsonian Institution’s National Air and Space Museum, has opened a new branch at Washington Dulles International Airport (IAD). The $300 million Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center (www.nasm.si.edu) provides much-needed display space for some of aviation’s most famous flying machines, including an Air France Concorde and the Enola Gay, the B-29 that dropped the atomic bomb on Hiroshima. The center also provides informative exhibits on aviation heroes such as Charles Lindbergh and Amelia Earhart.

World War II created its share of flying aces, and all the soldiers who fought so valiantly are honored at the National WWII Memorial on the National Mall (www.wwiimemorial.com). The memorial, which was a long time coming, was dedicated this spring.

For those interested in local history, the City Museum of Washington, D.C., (www.citymuseumdc.org) opened in the historic Carnegie Library across from the new convention center. Exhibits focus on the many communities off the usual tourist map, including Chinatown, Adams Morgan, Shaw and Anacostia.

Visitors pump $4 billion into the city’s economy each year, and the popularity of the district as a tourist destination as well as a place of business has helped put hotel occupancy above the national average — good news for an industry that suffered following the Sept. 11 attacks.

Everyone’s talking about the latest entry on the city’s hotel scene, the Mandarin Oriental. The Mandarin is notable for its ultra luxurious offerings and its location, a waterfront lot where industrial waste was once dumped. Washington neighborhoods are undergoing frog-to-prince transformations faster than you can say “kiss me.” Hotels and restaurants have been at the fore-front of these changes.

The owners of one restaurant in particular helped to transform Washington’s Penn Quarter into the city’s hottest neighborhood. Roberto Alvarez and Rob Wilder opened the Spanish tapas restaurant Jaleo a decade ago on a street frequented more often by drug dealers than urban hipsters. Chef Jose Andres whipped up a menu of small plates of Spanish delicacies to be freshly prepared and served to order. The restaurant has been packed ever since and the neighborhood is now home to the MCI Center (where the Washington Wizards and Capitols play), the International Spy Museum, art galleries, million-dollar condominiums, more restaurants and a huge new convention center.

As part of the Proximo Group, Alvarez, Wilder and Andres have opened additional restaurants based on the “small plates” concept. Just down the street, there’s the sleek Zaytinya serving Greek, Turkish and Lebanese specialties. Also in Penn Quarter, Andres’ original restaurant, Café Atlantico, offers small samplings of South American specialties at its Mini Bar. More branches of Jaleo have opened around the area, including one in Crystal City, Va., that boring, concrete neighborhood next to Reagan National Airport (DCA) now undergoing a Penn Quarter-like transformation — thanks in part to Proximo, which also opened a Mexican restaurant, Oyamel, there. The three men and their restaurants have become Washington institutions.

So, while a presidential election is indeed important to the residents of the nation’s capital, forgive them if they don’t pay close attention; there is just so much else going on.

For more information on visiting Washington, D.C., go to www.washington.org.

LODGING

FOUR POINTS SHERATON, DOWNTOWN

One of the best budget choices in downtown Washington is the Four Points Sheraton. Convenient to the old and new convention centers as
well as the hip Penn Quarter, this hotel offers rooms for as little as $99 per night. Each guestroom has a “Heavenly Bed,” coffeemaker and high-speed Internet access. There’s a 24-hour fitness center and an excellent restaurant named Corduroy on site.
FOUR POINTS SHERATON, DOWNTOWN
1201 K St. N.W., Washington, D.C.
tel 202 289 7600, fax 202 349 2215
www.fourpointswashingtondc.com

HOTEL MONACO

Also in the Penn Quarter, the marvelous Hotel Monaco is housed in an impressive four-story marble building that was once home to the General Post Office and later to the Tariff Commission. The Kimpton Group took a 60-year lease on the building, a designated National Historic Landmark, and renovated it to offer the best of classic architecture and modern design. The Hotel Monaco maintains original architectural features such as high ceilings, wide hallways and marble columns, complemented by hip and colorful furnishings. Rooms provide safes, robes, CD players, Nintendo and high-speed Internet access. The Monaco sets itself apart by offering tall rooms (18- foot-high ceilings, 96-inch-long beds, raised showerheads), goldfish companions and VIP treatment for visiting dogs.
HOTEL MONACO
700 F St. N.W., Washington, D.C.
tel 202 628 7177, fax 202 628 7277
www.monaco-dc.com

MANDARIN ORIENTAL

When money is no object, visit the Mandarin Oriental,Washington’s
new five-star hotel overlooking the Potomac River. The hotel’s 347
deluxe rooms boast stunning views of the Tidal Basin, the Jefferson Memorial and the Washington Monument. Nightly turndown service includes complimentary Voss mineral water, an orchid and a quotation from an American president or founding father. Among the facilities are a fully equipped business center and a 50-foot indoor swimming pool with views of the waterfront. Eric Ziebold, formerly of The French Laundry in Napa Valley, Calif., has just launched the hotel’s signature restaurant, CityZen.
MANDARIN ORIENTAL
1330 Maryland Ave. S.W., Washington, D.C.
tel 202 554 8588, fax 202 554 8999
www.mandarinoriental.com/washington

DINING

CHARLIE PALMER STEAK HOUSE

If you’re looking for a place convenient to Capitol Hill to put the expense account to good use, look no further than Charlie Palmer, a new favorite with Washington lobbyists. Chef Palmer is also the man
behind Aureole, the 15-year-old Manhattan restaurant. Don’t let the “steak house” in the name fool you. While Charlie Palmer serves up excellent meat dishes, the contemporary, sleek design of the
restaurant and gourmet-inspired dishes are far from the offerings of a traditional steak house. The modern feel extends to the wine list, which is displayed on handheld computers. Entrees range from $17 to $35.
CHARLIE PALMER’S STEAK HOUSE
101 Constitution Ave. N.W., Washington, D.C.
tel 202 547 8100, 202 547 6607
www.charliepalmer.com

JALEO

The decade-old tapas bar that helped put Penn Quarter on the map is still going strong as a popular place for affordable afterwork sangria and excellent pretheater Spanish cuisine (The Shakespeare Theater is right next door). Diners usually order two or three tapas per person and share them. The tasty dishes are made from scratch as they are ordered. Try the eggplant flan in red pepper sauce, the bacon and date fritters and the grilled chorizo bedded on mashed potatoes.
JALEO
480 7th St. N.W., Washington, D.C.
tel 202 6287949

LEFTBANK
This new Adams Morgan restaurant offers a variety of gourmet choices in a casual, retro atmosphere. The ’60s-inspired décor features
orange leather booths, a few communal tables, plastic bar stools and movable cocktail carts. There’s a large bar in the center of the restaurant with seating for up to 200 and a sushi bar filling out
the rest of the space. With an ambitious menu divided into categories
— Farm (bison burger), Ocean (lobster sandwich) and Garden (vegetable plate), Leftbank offers something for everyone. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late-night dining. Although the service is sometimes slow, the atmosphere makes
Leftbank worth a visit. Entrees range from $7 to $15.
LEFTBANK
2424 18th St. N.W., Washington, D.C.
tel 202 464 2100

At Home With Mayor Anthony A. Williams

Anthony Williams has been the mayor of Washington, D.C., since 1998. His second term in office extends through December 2006. Williams moved to Washington in 1993 when he was appointed by then-President Clinton to be the chief financial officer of the U.S. Department of Agriculture. He began serving as the CFO for Washington in 1995.

Williams shared some of his favorite little-known Washington spots with Global Traveler:

Ben’s Chili Bowl—“Although I don’t really have a favorite restaurant, I do tend to frequent Ben’s Chili Bowl. You don’t find restaurants like Ben’s just anywhere in the United States — people from all walks of life sit shoulder to shoulder enjoying the world’s greatest hot dogs, burgers and chili. Last year, we celebrated the 45th anniversary of this institution that has endured through good times and bad. Ben’s opened in 1958 during an exciting time in the U Street corridor, then known as the Black Broadway. During the riots of 1968, Ben’s remained open while much of the city closed down and the neighborhood around 13th and U streets N.W. erupted in flames. U Street is once again redefining itself with the opening of dozens of restaurants, boutiques, clubs and cafes.” (1213 U St. N.W., tel
202 667 0909, www.benschilibowl.com.)

The Anacostia River—“Rivers and their waterfronts hold unique places in the lives of cities. I have bicycled, kayaked and hiked almost every inch of the Anacostia River and personally witnessed its spectacular beauty and its sad neglect. The Anacostia
has the potential to be one of the great urban rivers in our country and also a symbol of our city’s renewal. Since the announcement of my candidacy for mayor in 1998, the cleanup and revitalization of the Anacostia River has been a centerpiece of my agenda.”

The Washington Perspectives Exhibit at the City Museum of Washington, D.C.—“You can find your house or your office on this enormous lighted floor map of Washington. Surrounding the map are historic photographs, artifacts, dioramas, documents and memorabilia that entice you into discovering more about the fascinating stories and people that make up the city’s history.”

Frederick Douglass House—“Known as the father of the civil rights movement, Frederick Douglass was an abolitionist, human rights and women’s rights activist, orator, author, journalist, publisher and social reformer. After the end of the Civil War, he moved to Washington, D.C., from New York to carry on his work on behalf of African-Americans. In 1877, he purchased his home, Cedar Hill, in Southeast D.C., which is now an inspiring National Historic Site (1411 W St. S.E., tel 202 426 5961, www.nps.gov/frdo/freddoug).

African American Civil War Memorial—“More than 200,000 African-American veterans of the Civil War are honored at this memorial and museum in the heart of the city’s Shaw neighborhood in Northwest. The Wall of Honor lists the names of those African- American troops who served in the Civil War. Some of those men, the ‘Buffalo Soldiers,’ explored and mapped vast areas of the southwest and strung hundreds of miles of telegraph lines. They also faced fierce prejudice due to the color of their Union uniforms as well as the color of their skin. Despite this, the Buffalo Soldiers developed into one of the most distinguished fighting units in the Army.” (1200 U St. N.W., tel 202 667 2667, www.afroamcivilwar.org.)

Doing Business in Washington, D.C.

Washington draws business visitors for a variety of reasons, including conventions and visits with hometown congressmen. Whether you are flying into town for a daylong meeting or spending a few months on a consulting project, it helps to know a few things about the city’s culture.

Anyone who has lived in Washington for any length of time will tell you that it feels more like a small town than a world capital. Almost everyone who lives here, especially those who work for Congress, is from somewhere else, which makes meeting a native Washingtonian something of a novelty. Lunch meetings and cocktail parties are popular venues for conducting business. Access to and control of decision-making power are the real measures of success
here rather than wealth, although the area has more than its share of tech millionaires. With or without a Republican in the White House,Washington is a conservative town, both in terms of fashion and conduct.

The federal government is the largest buyer of goods and services
in the world. The United States of America buys some $200 billion dollars of products and equipment each year. For more information on doing business with the federal government, go to www.fedbizopps.gov.

The District of Columbia has become something of a boomtown, benefiting from some $27 billion in development to date. For more information on doing business in Washington, go to www.dc.gov.

INFO TO GO

Public transportation in and around D.C. is fairly good, so there’s no need to rent a car unless you have meetings in the suburbs. The Metro rail system, safe and easy to use, costs $1.35 for a one-way trip. Visit www.wmata.com. Taxis are plentiful and work on a zone system in the district. Trips that start in Virginia or Maryland are gauged by meter. Drivers can pick up additional passengers going in
the same direction.

Amtrak’s Acela Express runs between New York City and D.C. in about three hours. Visit www.amtrak.com or call 800 USA RAIL. Ronald Reagan National Airport (DCA) serves mostly short-haul flights. Long-haul flyers arrive at Washington Dulles Airport (IAD) about 45 minutes from downtown Washington. There are three options to get downtown. Cost of a taxi ride is about $50. Supershuttle van service offers rides for about $22. For $8, take a Washington Flyer bus to
the nearest Metro station and continue your trip downtown via subway. For more information on both airports, visit www.mwaa.com. Baltimore Washington International Airport (BWI), about an hour from Washington, is conveniently linked to the nation’s capital by regular train service. For more information, visit www.bwiairport.com or call 410 859 7111.