My husband and I and our daughter and son-in-law shared a delectable Valentine’s Day dinner in Portland, Oregon, this past Monday night, but it was a take-out, dine-at-home experience.

Since the pandemic began, one of our favorite Portland restaurants has been exclusively serving its patrons via take-away and delivery service and even expanded some offerings, with the quality and freshness of the food not missing a beat. Seasons and Regions Seafood Grill opened in Southwest Portland in 2001, offering the best of seasonal Pacific Northwest seafood and world regional cuisines. Chef/owner Greg Schwab worked for 19 years for McCormick & Schmick’s as executive chef and general manager before starting his own catering business and then opening Seasons and Regions. In 2009 he and his wife began farming 14 acres in the foothills of the Cascades, producing the organic produce (including several varieties of gorgeous heirloom tomatoes — of which they sell plant starts to their customers each spring) which appears on the restaurant’s menus.

The restaurant, in a quiet suburban neighborhood, is not very big, and I remember the first time I visited being surprised by how large the menu was. I’m a bit leery of large menus: How can one place do so much . . . and do it all well? So far, I haven’t been disappointed with anything I’ve had. In addition to great food, the price for the quality is very reasonable. From 4 to 5 p.m. and after 7 p.m. each day, they offer a “cheap food” menu, with soups, light entrées, snacks and shooters going for $6.95 and $8.95 and desserts for $5.

Since early 2020, Chef Greg and his team have transitioned well to the new reality. In addition to their seasonally changing menu items, one can order fresh (raw) seafood, shellfish and meats; bottled spice blends (complete with recipes) for home cooking; to-go wine, beer and cocktail selections; and party platters and dips for a crowd. Ordering online is quick and easy, and you’re able to select the time you wish to pick up your food. Then you simply pull into a numbered slot in the restaurant’s lot and call to indicate you are there; the food is delivered, no contact, and off you go. We were discussing that they are actually able to serve far more people, especially on a popular night like Valentine’s Day, than they could with dine-in. In fact, like other establishments, Seasons and Regions made substantial changes to its space in order to accommodate the staging and preparation of all the takeout orders, so they are taking their time before switching back to in-house dining.

We had the restaurant’s regular menu as well as a special Valentine’s roster from which to order. We’re at the height of Dungeness crab season here in Oregon, so several items featured that sweet seafood, often paired with others such as razor clams, bay shrimp, mussels and salmon. Several dishes have a Cajun/Southern bent, and one could also choose from soups, salads, sandwiches, entrées and desserts. Harry and I started with a shared appetizer of Dungeness crab wontons with a sweet chili sauce. They boasted the perfect balance of crunchy wrapper and soft filling.

Next, we shared part of a quart of a creamy applewood-smoked salmon chowder; with just the right amount of smokiness and a not-too-stodgy base, I could see it could be a meal by itself. Harry stuck with the soup theme, opting for a spicy/savory Gulf shrimp, Cajun chicken and country ham gumbo. Its hearty stock included okra, bell peppers, onions and tomatoes, all served over red rice and making for a very filling, satisfying meal. There was no way I was going to pass up the Dungeness crab and bay shrimp risotto, and it was as fabulous as I’d hoped. The creamy spinach risotto provided a bed for big chunks of crab leg and tender shrimp, all bathed in beurre blanc and delicately seasoned crab bisque. My son-in-law opted for the Valentine’s special seafood risotto with Dungeness crab, scallops and prawns, asparagus and beurre rouge. Daughter Jenny also went for seafood with a Caesar salad topped with generous hunks of Dungeness crab legs, house-smoked salmon and Oregon bay shrimp. The quality and freshness of the seafood in all these dishes really stood out and made them great.

We managed to save room for two of the house-made desserts, for which Seasons and Regions is well-known. I debated for a while about ordering the amazing carrot cake; but because it was Valentine’s Day, after all, I just had to get the Kahlua triple chocolate mousse cake. It was surprisingly much lighter than I expected while also being satisfyingly dark and rich. Jenny and her husband shared the Key lime pie, which Josh proclaims is the best he’s had, hands down, ever.

We didn’t fancy up our table with candles, linen napkins, china or silver, but we nevertheless felt we enjoyed a truly fine-dining experience. I’m looking forward to my next meal with Seasons and Regions already!

— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor