I admire those who, for philosophical or health reasons, commit to a vegetarian or vegan diet; I really do. I make a concerted effort to include plenty of vegetables, fruits and whole grains in my diet and eat red meat sparingly; but I don’t think I could ever completely give up meat. Now that I’ve dined at Smithfields in Ashland, Ore., I know that last statement is an incontrovertible fact.

Last weekend friends from Portland invited us to join them at this “meat-centric” steakhouse set just blocks from the theaters of the Oregon Shakespeare Festival and Oregon Cabaret Theatre. The dining room features dark wood floors and simple copper-topped tables, flanked on one side by a long wooden bar and on the other by a chalkboard-painted wall with cutouts offering views into the kitchen. If there is any doubt upon entering as to what will be on the menu, a glance at that wall removes all questions: A life-size sketch of a cow divided into various beef cuts and proclamations such as “Bacon is the gateway meat” dominate. Another strong clue as to the chef’s focus is the list of some 20 local and independent suppliers of produce, meat, fish, beer and wine.

Chef Neil Clooney grew up in London, and those who are familiar with that city will recognize his nod to the centuries-old meat market there in his naming of this Southern Oregon restaurant. He believes firmly in sustainable “nose-to-tail” dining and proudly offers in-house charcuterie. (The house-cured bacon figures prominently in several dishes.)

Our group of six ordered a range of dishes from the menu, which features Starters (I’m going to have to return for the Roasted Bone Marrow), Developed (entrées accompanied by vegetable and/or starchy sides), Meat (just that), Sauces (including bearnaise, green peppercorn and red wine reduction) and Sides (served family style in generous portions, meant for sharing). Every dish boasted amazingly rich, complex, delectable flavors; and while the portions were generous, not a morsel was left on any plate at the end of the meal.

A few highlights: Harry started with a piping-hot, hearty bowl of short beef rib and barley soup, rich and thick. I dove into a large, seasonal special salad of roasted asparagus spears under a heap of arugula with slices of the house panchetta and shaved parmesan. I followed that with the duck leg confit “cassoulet” with spicy merguez sausage, panchetta and baby lima beans —  a wonderful melding of tastes and textures. I enjoyed a taste of friend John’s cider-braised pork belly with collard greens and mashed potatoes: so tender! Debbie had beautiful golden scallops on a bed of risotto, and down the table were plates with steak and a lamb porterhouse.

We hadn’t even made it halfway through the meal before we knew we’d have to return here again — soon and often — to try more of the dishes served up at Smithfields. A focus on seasonal and local ingredients means often there are special dishes on the menu (such as my rhubarb oat crumble with vanilla bean ice cream for dessert) in addition to the regular favorites — another excuse for several visits in the ensuing months. Yes, thanks to Smithfields and Chef Clooney, I’m a carnivore for sure!

— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor