FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Black Sea Coast: Seaside Vibe

by Richard Newton

Mar 1, 2017
March 2017

THE GREAT CITY OF İSTANBUL represents a vital crossroads of trade and culture, though most people think primarily of only one axis: east-west, Asia and Europe. Here the two continents meet — or divide — depending on your perspective. But there is also another axis: south-north, linking the Mediterranean to the Black Sea.

In our perception of Turkey, we tend to neglect the Black Sea, but 22 miles northwest of İstanbul, on the shore of that significant body of water, geography is currently being reshaped. Crinkled, forested hills are being leveled and wetlands filled in to create a flat expanse of more than 17,000 acres.

This is the site of İstanbul’s new airport, projected to begin operating in 2018. With six runways and the world’s largest terminal under a single roof, the $36 billion megaproject will shift İstanbul’s — and Turkey’s — center of gravity. The Black Sea coast will be truly on the world map.

The Black Sea coastline stretches from Turkey’s border with Bulgaria to the border with Georgia along hundreds of miles of beaches and coves, pine-clad headlands and formidable cliffs. In contrast to the arid, sun-bleached tourist resorts of Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, the Black Sea coast scenically resembles the U.S. Pacific Northwest, with weather to match.

The city of Samsun, roughly midway along the coast, makes a good staging post. The city itself, despite a long and complicated history, is now a modern sprawl with few attractions, though it holds a special place in Turkish history, for it was from here Mustafa Kemal Atatürk initiated Turkey’s War of Independence in 1919. The Gazi Museum commemorates that important event and is worth a visit.

The strategic position that proved so crucial to the success of Atatürk’s military campaign makes Samsun a logical base for modern tourists. From here you can travel west along the warmer, sunnier stretch of coastline or east into cooler, damper climes.

Going west, the little city of Sinop, the oldest part of which is enfolded by formidable medieval walls, sits picturesquely on an isthmus jutting out into the sea. Sinop Archaeological Museum provides a window onto the city’s many-layered history.

The 200-mile road journey from Sinop to Amasra is endlessly scenic. Mostly the road snakes along the shoreline, with occasional diversions inland. You’ll pass few significant towns along the way, just a succession of attractive, red-roofed villages.

Ancient Amasra Castle gate

Ancient Amasra Castle gate © AHMET IHSAN ARITURK | DREAMSTIME.COM

After a leisurely half-day drive, you’ll arrive at the old port of Amasra, huddled tightly on a headland. Homer mentioned the original settlement in The Iliad, and subsequently the Romans, the Byzantines and the Genoese made their mark. Amasra Castle, the main historic attraction, incorporates elements from all three periods.

But the greater lure is the town itself, picturesque from all angles and indented with a beautiful sandy beach. Despite the town’s undoubted attractions, the tourism industry remains relatively modest. The colorful wooden fishing boats hauled out in the lee of the old battlements are not there for mere show. This remains a working fishing port, and you can enjoy the benefit in the excellent fish restaurants.

East of Samsun, halfway to the Georgian border, lies the city of Trabzon which, under its former name of Trebizond, was once the center of a great empire and an important stop along the fabled Silk Road. Although modern Trabzon evolved into a drab provincial capital, the labyrinthine alleys of the old town continue to evoke something of the exotic past.

One of Trabzon’s most impressive buildings is also one of its most controversial. The Hagia Sophia, a 13th-century Orthodox church, in the course of its history has been converted into a mosque, a prison and — during World War I — a Russian military hospital. In recent years the building has been the object of a tug of war between the Ministry of Culture, which wants to maintain the building in its current role as a museum, and religious authorities, who want to turn it once again into a functioning mosque. For now it remains a museum and is the city’s must-see attraction.

Sumela Monastery hugging the hillside in Trabzon

Sumela Monastery hugging the hillside in Trabzon © BIZOON | DREAMSTIME.COM

An hour’s drive inland from Trabzon, built precariously into the rocky face of a sheer cliff, lies perhaps the greatest cultural attraction of Turkey’s entire Black Sea region, the breathtaking Sumela Monastery. Originally founded in the year 386, this Eastern Orthodox monastery steadfastly endured centuries of political and religious upheaval — not to mention earthquakes — and now serves as an important site of pilgrimage for Christians from Russia and Greece.

The monastery’s UNESCO World Heritage status is dependent on essential restoration work which began in September 2015, and, consequently, scaffolding now shrouds the building. It is expected to reopen to worshippers and tourists on Assumption Day (Aug. 15) in 2018, by which time the Istanbul New Airport should also be open: two feats of architecture, one ancient, one modern.

Turkey has always been recognized as a geographic crossroads, but it is also a historical crossroads, with many eras and cultural legacies entwined. A journey along the Black Sea coast constantly reminds travelers of this heritage.

Black Sea Coast Info to Go

The main regional hub — in fact, an increasingly important global hub — is İstanbul’s Ataturk International Airport (IST). Cramped and crowded, its shortcomings are readily apparent. In 2018 (if targets are met) the airport will close and all operations will move to the state-of-the-art new airport — unnamed at this time — beside the Black Sea. Although the main length of the Black Sea coast, on the eastern side of the Bosporus Strait, remains accessible by vehicle from İstanbul, most tourists fly in to one of the main coastal cities. Samsun Airport (SZF) has regular connections from İstanbul and seasonal flights from Vienna (VIE) and Berlin-Tegel (TXL). Trabzon Airport (TZX) offers connections to İstanbul and other Turkish cities as well as year-round flights from Germany.

Restaurants in the Black Sea Coast

CEMILUSTA TRABZON Located on the city’s main square, this old Trabzon favorite taken over by the national Cemilusta franchise features great Turkish food and fast service. Atatürk Alani, Trabzon $$

MUSTAFA AMCA’NIN YERI This famous family-run fish restaurant has been a popular fixture of Amasra since 1945. Enjoy great sunset views from the terrace. Küçük Liman Caddesi 8, Amasra $$

PAMUK KARDEŞLER There are three locations in the city; the latest and most popular branch adjoins a small marina at Batı Park, a popular recreation area; renowned for fresh fish. Batı Park, Samsun $$

Where to Stay in the Black Sea Coast

ANEMON SAMSUN HOTEL Featuring stylish rooms in a seafront location with an adjacent shopping mall and close to downtown, this property offers one of the best options in the city. Yeni Mahalle Çarşamba Caddesi 52, Canik, Samsun $$$

HILTON GARDEN INN TRABZON Out of town but just a short taxi ride from the main attractions, the Hilton offers spacious rooms and suites; opt for a sea view. Barbaros Hayrettin Pasa Sokak 35, Akçaabat, Trabzon $$$

NORTHDOOR HOTEL AMASRA Situated on the waterfront, convenient for both town and beach, the Northdoor boasts attractive rooms, good service and excellent facilities. Turgut Işik Caddesi 78, Amasra $$

Introducing

FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Explore Excursions

#globility

Insta Feed
Daily
Feb 13, 2025

Trendy Delano Miami Beach Hotel Reopens This Year

Ennismore and partner Cain International are expecting to reopen the well-known Delano Miami Beach hotel in 2025 after completing a full renovation.

Madrid: The Charm of an Authentic City

They say Madrid is in vogue for many reasons: its lifestyle, its heritage, its cuisine and all of its new attractions. And it’s true, because Madrid is on the radar of travelers looking for a cutting-edge destination that still holds onto its essence. Join us as we explore its charms.

Daily
Feb 13, 2025

Florida’s Amrit Ocean Resort Launches Wellness Retreat Series

Situated on Florida’s Singer Island, recently opened Amrit Ocean Resort launches a wellness retreat series. Held monthly, this series aims to inspire longevity. The first retreat kicks off Feb. 27.

Daily
Feb 13, 2025

Aman to Open Its First Property in Bangkok

More than 35 years after opening its first property, Amanpuri, in Phuket, Aman returns to Thailand with the opening of Aman Nai Lert in Bangkok. Set to debut April 2, the 52-suite property lies within privately owned Nai Lert Park, offering guests a secluded haven in the middle of the bustling city, much like sister property Aman New York.

Sailing the Ionian Sea: Explore Greece’s Nautical Gems

Sailing the Ionian Sea is an enchanting way to experience Greece's breathtaking islands and pristine waters. Known for its favorable winds, calm seas and stunning landscapes, the Ionian Sea offers a paradise for both experienced sailors and those looking to explore for the first time. From lively beaches to secluded bays, these waters have something for every traveler seeking adventure and relaxation.

Daily
Feb 12, 2025

Colorado Dragon Boat Film Festival Returns in March

Celebrating the best of Asian and Asian American filmmaking, Colorado’s Dragon Boat Film Festival is a fun mix of screenings by established and emerging artists. The theme of this year’s event is Honoring Our Past to Guide Our Future, held March 14–16 at Denver Sie Center.

eFlyer Deals
Feb 12, 2025

Have a Galentine’s to Remember at Holston House Nashville

Available for stays Feb. 13–17, Holston House Nashville’s Galentine’s offer is sure to elevate your girls’ trip to the next level. This offer starts at just $50 above the hotel’s standard room rate and comes with:

United Airlines First to Purchase Sustainable Aviation Fuel for ORD

Chicago O’Hare International Airport will soon receive sustainable aviation fuel, all thanks to United Airlines, which became the first airline to purchase SAF for use at the airport, one of the largest in the United States. Neste, a producer of SAF, will provide up to 1 million gallons of its Neste MY Sustainable Aviation Fuel. The first supply arrived in August.

eFlyer Deals
Feb 12, 2025

Last-Minute Valentine’s Day Deal at The Benjamin Royal Sonesta Hotel

Still looking for a Valentine’s Day offer? The Benjamin Royal Sonesta Hotel, in New York City, has the LOVE Ben promotion available. With this offer, enjoy a stay in the hotel’s signature suite, as well as a private, late-night MoMA tour for two (with transportation included).