Times change. Since that blight on humanity known as the Berlin Wall came down in 1989, the reunited city has been campaigning vigorously to earn long overdue recognition as a hot spot for tourists and business travelers alike. The challenge Berlin faces involves changing the perception that it is a cold and dreary place with little to see or do. That challenge is largely being met — and with considerable success — despite such obstacles as a city treasury in need of funds.

As the capital of the largest economy in all of Europe, Berlin is home to high-tech and biotech firms, as well as corporate and pharmaceutical giants such as Siemens and Schering, the latter of which employs more than 6,000 city workers. Other firms, such as Schindler, BMW and Mercedes, also have major office space here. Foreign investment proceeds at a steady pace: Stroll down Potsdamer Platz through what used to be known as “no man’s land” because of the watchtowers and barbed wire that prevented East Germans from fleeing to the West, and you will find the Sony Center, Starbucks and Eddie Bauer. The loud booming noises you hear are probably coming from bulldozers making way for another office park or luxury high-rise. Look at the skyline and it is virtually impossible to miss the ubiquitous cranes — there is more construction going on in Berlin than anywhere else in the country.

Tourism, too, is gaining a foothold. Some 50,000 Berliners are currently employed in the tourism industry. Hotels such as the Adlon have gained international accolades by playing host to world leaders, while trendy boutiques on Kurfürstendamm in the west and Friedrichstrasse in the east draw an increasingly cosmopolitan crowd. If you happen to visit in early February, you will notice a dusting of glitter over the city as Berlinale gets under way. The annual Berlin Film Festival draws an array of Hollywood stars. (Cannes can keep its Golden Palm — Berlin awards the Golden Bear.)

Once again, Berlin finds itself at the cusp of a historic moment. On the leading edge of technology while aspiring to become a center for culture and fashion, its position now is reminis- cent of its status a century ago. Dubbed “the youngest European city,” at that time it was poised for growth. Shops and hotels were sprouting on every corner. The Wertheim department store, built in 1896, boasted 83 elevators and a glass-roofed atrium. Eleven years later, Hermann Tietz constructed his famous Kaufhaus des Westens (department store of the West), which still stands today. Berlin boasted more electrical lighting than Paris, the so-called “City of Light.” (Berlin was dubbed “Elektropolis.”) The first traffic light in Europe was installed at Potsdamer Platz. The subway was built in 1902, joining streetcars and automobiles to make Berlin, in the words of author Brian Ladd, “the city of bustle and speed.”

Alas, Berlin’s hopes of becoming the next Paris, London or Rome were dashed by the First World War. The wreck of the Weimar Republic didn’t help things either, although the decadence of the era earned the city the moniker “Babylon on the Spree.” In 1923, the economy plummeted. One U.S. dollar was worth more than 4 trillion German marks. Then, Adolph Hitler entered the picture.

Following World War II, Berliners looked forward to a new beginning — a chance to make things better. Or so they thought. The city, divided into Allied zones at the end of the war, was forcefully split in two on the night of Aug. 12, 1961. Residents woke the following morning to find a wall being built — first with barbed wires and brick, then with watchtowers, and finally staffed with machine-gun-toting guards under orders to shoot to kill. Though some people on the eastern side of the wall were able to dash to freedom, many others endured a wait of 28 long years before they could simply walk across the street to reunite with loved ones.

To date, billions of dollars have been spent to unify the city, but residents are still having a difficult time deciding what should go and what should be preserved for posterity. The East German monstrosity known as the Palace of the Republic is slated for demolition despite protests from some who experience Ostalgie — nostalgia — for the East German past.The Fernsehturm (television tower)— a Soviet-style space needle that is still a popular tourist attraction — will remain standing. The Prussian Palace, meanwhile, will be rebuilt on the lot where it stood before it was obliterated by Allied bombs. Around the corner from the Brandenburg Gate, the Holocaust Memorial is also nearing completion. Close by, the site of Hitler’s bunker remains paved over and unmarked.

Take a walk down Wilhelmstrasse and you will pass the Ministry of Finance. Sixty years ago it was home to Hermann Göring’s Luftwaffe. Across the street you will find the basement remains of Gestapo and SS headquarters — where the Topography of Terror Museum is set for construction. On that same street (Niederkirchnerstrasse)is one of the few remnants of the Berlin Wall.

Layer upon layer of history, but Berlin’s story remains unfinished. Residents are now looking toward the future, determined to turn their city into Berlinopolis — or “City of the Future.” Currently, Berlin is the most-visited city in Germany. In Europe, it comes in at fourth place after that infamous troika: Paris, London and Rome. A hotel executive once told me, “We want to be third.” That’s a distinct possibility as more and more visitors discover that it’s very nice to go trav’ling — to Berlin.

Where to Stay

Hotel Adlon

Some call it “the most splendid hotel in the world,” and there’s no doubt the Adlon is in a class all its own. Centrally located in the heart of Pariser Platz, some rooms offer a breathtaking view of the Brandenburg Gate. Built in 1907, the hotel has played host to such celebrities as Charlie Chaplin, Marlene Dietrich, Robert De Niro and U.S. presidents from Teddy Roosevelt to George W.Bush. Though burned down after World War II, Hotel Adlon made a magnificent return in 1997 to continue its tradition of impeccable service in an opulent setting. There are 286 rooms and 51 suites (at least one with bulletproof windows). Amenities include 24-hour room service, high-speed and wireless Internet connections, fax machines and American-standard-voltage (110 V) plugs for small appliances. Bathrooms in the suites feature spectacular steam baths, whirlpools and saunas. Fine dining options include the Quarré restaurant for breakfast and brunch and the gourmet restuaurant Lorenz Adlon, a recent recipient of the coveted Michelin Star. Don’t miss the Adlon Spa, where you can relax in the heated pool or get a Thai massage.
Hotel Adlon, Unter den Linden 77, Berlin, Germany
tel 49 30 22 61 1111, fax 49 30 22 61 1116
www.hotel-adlon.de

____________________________________________

Radisson SAS Hotel

Located on the Spree River near Museum Island and across from the magnificent Berlin Dome, the new Radisson SAS Hotel boasts the world’s largest hotel aquarium — 250,000 gallons of water with 2,500 exotic fish. Best of all, the elevator is inside the fish tank. The 427 rooms and suites sport a sleek, cool look. Business-class rooms feature LCD-flat-screen TVs. Dining options include Heat, with its two Tandoori ovens in an open kitchen, and the hip Aqua Lounge and Bar, offering sushi, sashimi and tropical cocktails. After a long day of meetings, make a beeline for the wellness area and its Finnish sauna, waterfall showers and swimming pool with a counter-current system.

Radisson SAS Hotel
Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 5, Berlin, Germany
tel 49 30 238 28 0, fax 49 30 238 28 10
www.radissonsas.com

Savoy Hotel

Convenient to the exclusive shopping districts of the Ku’damm and Fasanenstrasse, the Savoy Hotel is one of the most beautiful places to stay. Greta Garbo and Miró visited. Author Thomas Mann described it as “a small hotel … but so friendly and comfortable. “Established in 1929, the Savoy remains friendly (some say the friendliest hotel in Berlin) and comfortable. Its 125 superbly appointed rooms and suites feature all the basic amenities (though not all are equipped with ISDN or a modem line). Weinrot, the hotel’s newly renovated restaurant, offers a beautiful view of the Delphi-Filmtheater. Cuisine is both international and seasonal, with such delights as pork filet marinated in cinnamon, mustard and ginger. After a long day, schedule a massage or hit the sauna. The star attraction at the Savoy is undoubtedly the Casa del Habano, Berlin’s first cigar bar.
Savoy Hotel, Fasanenstrasse 9-10, Berlin, Germany
tel 49 30 311 030, fax 49 30 311 0333
www.hotel-savoy.com

Where to Dine

You’ll find more than bratwurst and beer in Berlin. Some of the greatest chefs from around the world have descended upon the German capital, much to everyone’s gastronomic pleasure. Berlin has the finest in new European cuisine, French, Fusion, Thai, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern. Here are just a few favorites.

Borchardt

Every city has a restaurant where the famous and the powerful go to see and be seen. Borchardt, founded in 1853, is such a place. Located in the heart of the Mitte government district, its red and dark wood paneling and elegant interior are a pleasant contrast to the pale stone structures nearby. Inside it’s all warmth (but not stuffy), with a crowd that’s usually buzzing with the latest gossip. During my last visit, former Berlin Mayor Walter Momper was making the rounds, while a group of German cinema stars enjoyed dinner and a few laughs. I dined on Argentine beef, cooked to perfection, and a potato soup so rich I could have eaten it with a fork. Main courses cost $15 to $30.
Borchardt, Französische Strasse 47, Berlin, Germany
tel 49 30 203 87 110, fax 49 30 203 87 150

Refugium

In the middle of the beautiful Gendarmenmarkt (east of the Brandenburg Gate), right around the corner from a French church, you will discover a splendid little restaurant called Refugium. Surrounded by baroque elegance, you can gaze upon the vaulted ceilings and frescoes while marveling at the menu’s stellar array of classic European dishes such as cream of artichoke with truffle oil, and loin and chop of suckling pig on potato risotto with stewed chicory. The wild duck (when in season)is highly recommended. Main courses cost $18 to $30.
Refugium, Gendarmenmarkt 5
Berlin, Germany, tel 49 30 229 1661
fax 49 30 22 48 9861
www.refugium-bln.de

Ana e Bruno

In the Charlottenburg neighborhood, Ana e Bruno is one Italian restaurant that stands above the rest. Chef Bruno takes Italian cooking to ethereal levels with classics such as tortellini with pumpkin and fruit, and lamb with rosemary and sage. The atmosphere is quiet and elegant. Prices are on the high end, but well worth it considering the masterpieces you’ll sample. Main courses cost $25 to $45.
Ana e Bruno
Sophie-Charlottenburg-Strasse 101
Berlin, Germany, tel 49 30 325 7110
fax 49 30 322 6895

Theodor Tucher

Located in the heart of Pariser Platz, across from the Brandenburg Gate, is the cozy and charming (and literary-themed)Theodor Tucher. Because of its proximity to the Reichstag, don’t be surprised if Chancellor Schröder stops in as he did recently in the company of President Bush to enjoy one of Berlin’s signature snacks — currywurst. The traditional bratwurst is served in a zesty red curry quite similar to a Kansas City barbecue sauce,more sweet than spicy. Savor it with a side of diced potatoes and a tall glass of cool Jever. Main courses cost $10 to $20.

Theodor Tucher, Pariser Platz 6a, Berlin, Germany
tel 49 30 224 89464, fax 49 30 224 89465

Café Einstein

If you have a hankering for Starbucks, there are six of them in the city. (The success of the Seattle chain is due mainly to a concept relatively new to Germans: coffee to go.) But if you’re not on the go, lounge in Café Einstein. One of the most venerable establishments in all of Berlin, the original café on Kurfürstenstrasse was where Ernest Hemingway came to write. Today, the intellectual atmosphere remains as patrons leisurely browse the newspapers while sipping espresso. Einstein is also the perfect place for a quiet lunch —perhaps a light salad followed by a crisp and tender Wiener schnitzel. Be sure to try one of the many sumptuous desserts. Main courses cost $8 to $20.
Café Einstein, Kurfürstenstrasse 58, Berlin, Germany
tel 49 30 261 5096, fax 49 30 261 9176
Unter den Linden 42, Berlin, Germany
tel 49 30 204 3632, fax 49 30 204 3635
www.cafeeinstein.com

Where to Go

During the 1920s, Berlin’s nightlife was probably the wildest in all of Europe. Today it has toned itself down — but just a bit. The Paris Bar (Kantstrasse 152, tel 49 30 313 8052 )in the toney Charlottenburg neighborhood is where many artists and politicians like to kick back, have a glass of wine and soak in the atmosphere of an exclusive French bistro. The fare is delectable and can be pricey but definitely worth it. Just how trendy is the Paris Bar? The German ambassador to the United States recently had a replica of it built in the basement of his residence in Washington, D.C. Reservations are highly recommended.

While you are in the neighborhood, if you are up for some serious dancing at a classic disco, get down to Big Eden (Kurfürstendamm 202, tel 49 30 533 2030 ). This dance mecca’s motto is “dirty and sweet since 1967!”

For music in a more “historic” setting, you shouldn’t miss out on the Tränenpalast (Reichstagufer 17, tel 49 30 206 100 11 for tickets). Once known as the “Palace of Tears,” where East and West Berliners bid farewell to each other, the former train station has been turned into a club where everyone from Prince to the Buena Vista Social Club performs.

What to Buy

As an international city with a true cosmopolitan feel, Berlin is not noted for any particular product. Rather, it is a hub for haute couture, as you will find in trendy shopping districts like Kurfürstendamm (often abbreviated to Ku’damm) in the west and Friedrichstrasse in the east. Go window shopping along the Ku’damm and nearby Fasanenstrasse, where Versace, Gucci, Chanel and Prada are all located. Here you will also find the Kaufhaus des Westens, or KaDeWe — perhaps the largest department store in the entire city. Or go east to enjoy a stroll down the picturesque Friedrichstadt Passages (along Friedrichstrasse), where boutique stores and cafés abound. While you’re there, check out the Galeries Lafayette (part of the French department store chain).

As for souvenirs for the kids, no trip to Berlin is complete without a stuffed bear — the city’s mascot. You’ll find them everywhere — even at the airport. For something more elegant, browse through the exquisite china and porcelain collections of a KPM store (Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur) either on Unter den Linden 35 or Kurfürstendamm 27. Just remember that most stores are not open on Sundays.

What to See

The Brandenburg Gate (Brandenburger Tor), located in Mitte, the central district. You can pass through this gate any time. The Reichstag, located in Mitte at the Platz der Republik. Check for tours of the cupola. (tel 49 30 22 73 2152,www.bundestag.de)

Pergamonmuseum on Museum Island. Along with the Bode Museum, the Old National Gallery and the Altes Museum, it is not to be missed. (tel 49 30 20 90 5555, www.smb.spk-berlin.de)

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) by Kurfürstendamm. This “Department Store of the West” offers every luxurious gift imaginable, sure to delight you or your significant other. (tel 49 30 21 210, www.kadewe.de)

Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral). The Protestant cathedral located on the Spree east of the Brandenburg Gate, with its imposing copper dome, is home to breathtaking works of art. (tel 49 30 202 69 136, www.berliner-dom.de)

Want to Go?

For U.S.travelers, Berlin’s most convenient airport is Tegel (TXL), just five miles from the city center. American Airlines, British Airways, Lufthansa and United make the most trips here, but often require a stopover, usually in Frankfurt (FRA). Tegel offers all the typical amenities of an international airport, from bars and cafés to currency exchange and car rentals. From Tegel, taking a taxi (unless your hotel offers a shuttle) is the best way to go; it ’ll cost from $20 to $40. If you are traveling by rail and coming from the east or south of Europe, you will arrive at Berlin’s Ostbahnhof. Otherwise,your first stop by train will be the Bahnhof Zoo (Zoo station) in western Berlin, where you can connect to other districts by subway (U-Bahn) and tram (S-Bahn) or bus. As with many train stations in the United States and abroad, watch your bags and pockets. Among Berliners, mass transit is quite popular. But for visitors who would rather avoid the pushing and shoving of rush hour, getting a taxi is preferable. You can find them throughout the city (beige with a TAXI sign)and at cabstands. Rates are moderate during the day.

Who’s Who

Jeffrey Gedmin, An American in Berlin

One of the most prominent Americans in Berlin is Jeffrey Gedmin, director of the Aspen Institute Berlin. Described as “a trans-Atlantic marketplace of ideas,” Aspen brings together prominent Americans and Europeans — such as Walter Isaacson, former chairman and CEO of CNN’s News Group; Wolfgang Clement, German minister of economics and labor; and Horst Teltschik, president of Boeing Germany — to address issues related to politics, trade and culture. Gedmin is frequently on television, giving commentary on U.S.foreign policy and trans-Atlantic relations. A resident of the city since 2001, he has become something of a Berliner himself.

Gedmin resides in the Mitte district, not far from the beautiful Gendarmenmarkt Square. He calls the city “a work in progress,” noting real estate is far less expensive than in New York or London. Gedmin also praises Berlin for its geographic centrality.

“In one to two hours you are anywhere in Europe — Moscow,Madrid,Prague,Rome.”

The city’s greatest challenge?

“Change. Fifteen years after the fall of the Berlin Wall, the city is trying to digest this history,” said Gedmin. “It is a challenge — the import of West German institutions from the old capital Bonn, the integration of East Berlin and the economic and psychological effects of Communist rule.”

What does Gedmin like most about the city? Among other things, Berliner Milchkaffee (a coffee drink), Hotel Adlon, jazz, the cafés of the Kreuzberg district and taxis that are easier to hail than in New York City. Besides that?

“Starbucks is right across the street!”

Just the Facts

Location: Berlin is in northeastern Germany, along the Spree and Havel rivers, about 120 miles south of the Baltic Sea.

City size: 343 square miles.

Population: Approximately 3.5 million people, similar to Los Angeles (3.6 million).

Climate: December through February, temperatures often in the low 20s, with heavy snow possible. Warmest months: June through August, temperatures in the 70s. Wettest month: September. Driest months: February and April. Sunniest month: May.

Time zone: Berlin is in the Central European time zone, six hours ahead of U.S.Eastern Standard Time, and observes Daylight Savings Time.

Official currency: Euro.

Official language: German, but English is widely understood.

Key industries: Electronics, pharmaceuticals, biotechnology, communications.