Flying over Auckland — its emerald hills, volcanic peaks and tiny islands jutting out of a glistening sea dotted with billowing sails — I see why the Maori settlers who paddled in on their wakas 650 years ago named the bay Waitemata, meaning “sparkling water.” And why sailing-obsessed Kiwis named Auckland the “City of Sails.”

This exquisite aerial vantage of Auckland — a narrow volcanic isthmus straddling the azure blue Waitemata and Manukau harbors — belies the city’s double ego as the economic engine that drives New Zealand and as easy-going gateway to the country’s natural delights.

Spend a couple of days on terra firma immersed in business and you quickly see why the city deserves its top ratings — one of the world’s top five destinations in a recent Lonely Planet Traveller’s Pulse Survey and the fifth-best lifestyle city in the 2008 Mercer Quality of Living review. Auckland’s abundant outdoor diversions are conducive to balancing work with relaxation. As Graeme Osborne, CEO of Tourism Auckland, said, “Even when economic indicators start to trend the wrong way, our lifestyle qualities remind us how fortunate we are.” Stroll away from a meeting or corporate convention and you can chill out at a cheery waterfront café. Just 30 minutes outside of Auckland you are a zillion mental miles away from business; tramping in shady wilderness, challenging the breeze on an America’s Cup yacht or lingering on a sybaritic island in the Hauraki Gulf.

Home to 1.3 million people — about one third of the country’s population — New Zealand’s capital and largest city boasts a cultural mélange of Europeans and Asians along with the world’s largest concentration of Polynesian people. Its vibrant culinary and arts scenes, combined with its astounding geography, will excite even the most narrowly focused business types.

Dramatic developments over the past five years have transformed Auckland’s urban landscape, igniting an enthusiastic business climate with opportunities for commerce, technology and tourism. Many new Auckland icons have been created on reclaimed land, including the $28 million makeover of Queen Street — which still sparks chuckles about the motorcade during the 1999 APEC Summit when President Bill Clinton and his daughter, Chelsea, stopped traffic to grab a Burger King milkshake. The Viaduct precinct with its scenic promenade around the harbor, the cruise ship terminal and adjacent Hilton hotel, and Lighter Quay with its marinas and Westin Hotel are destined to enhance the already thriving market for international meetings and incentive groups. Opened in 2007, the Vector Arena with its 12,000-seat indoor complex has attracted a host of sporting events, concerts, expos and trade shows.

Although business confidence is faltering according to a recent NZ National Bank survey, new projects underway seem to transcend economic apprehensions. The 71-acre Wynward Quarter is developing into a brilliant mix of working waterfront and urban village that may very well inspire urban planners for waterfront cities around the globe with its commercial and mixed-use buildings, marine industries and recreational park. If anything reflects the Kiwi indomitable spirit, it is the Aucklanders’ palpable anticipation of the revamping of their beloved Eden Park in preparation for the 2011 Rugby World Cup tournament, a project that will create a 60,000-seat stadium and boost business opportunities in the area.

Meanwhile, in spite of global economic uncertainty, Auckland’s stable socio-political atmosphere continues to attract international investors mainly to tourism, manufacturing, technology, construction and the marine sector, with keen interest building from China, Asia, Europe, the United States and Canada.

No doubt intrigued investors take time out for a little Kiwi adventure.

LODGING

HILTON AUCKLAND

Designed to mimic the bow of a ship, the 166-room contemporary hotel literally sits on the se a adjacent to the international cruise ship terminal, with vast harbor views from the all-balcony rooms and suites. Hotel indulgences include an outdoor pool with underwater viewing, a spa offering myriad water therapies and the chic White Restaurant overlooking the bay. $$$-$$$$
HILTON AUCKLAND
147 Quay St., Princes Wharf
tel 64 9 978 2000
http://www.hilton.co.nz

THE LANGHAM AUCKLAND

Tucked in Auckland’s business and commercial hub, the luxuriously refurbished hotel offers BMW limousine service for guests wanting to travel in style. Locally famed for its lobby Winery — a hotspot for Victorian-style high tea and late-day cocktails — it is also home to the awardwinning, opulent Partington’s Restaurant and the historic Reading Room. A member of Leading Hotels of the World, the 410-room Langham offers butler service to Club guests and has a health club and rooftop pool.$$$-$$$$
THE LANGHAM AUCKLAND
83 Symonds St.,
tel 64 9 379 5132
http://www.langhamhotels.com

WESTIN AUCKLAND, LIGHTER QUAY

Auckland’s newest 5-star hotel, opened in October 2007, is a stunning sanctuary at the crux of sea and multinational business. Overlooking Viaduct Harbour, the hotel has 172 guestrooms and showcases Maori art and sculpture. Light seems to dance through vast windows against an interior of timber, stone and marble, and you might encounter CEOs sailing remotecontrolled “America’s Cup” boats in the reflecting pools. Amenities include Westin Heavenly Beds, Senses Spa (known for its marine algae treatments) and a lap pool. The stylish Q Restaurant and Bar open to a waterfront terrace.$$$-$$$$
WESTIN AUCKLAND, LIGHTER QUAY
21 Viaduct Harbour Ave., Lighter Quay
tel 64 9 909 9000
http://www.westin.com/auckland

DINING

DINE BY PETER GORDON

Dinner at Dine, the signature restaurant of celebrity Kiwi chef Peter Gordon set in the Sky City Grand Hotel, is de rigueur for visiting dignitaries. Menu items include Cambridge duck with sour cherry, umeshu wine and ginger compote; roast Hawkes Bay lamb and inventive desserts like chocolate terrine with citrus passion fruit salad.$$$$
DINE BY PETER GORDON
Sky City Grand Hotel Level 3, 90 Federal St.,
tel 64 9 363 7030
http://www.skycityauckland.co.nz

THE FRENCH CAFÉ

Settle into a lovely courtyard among Auckland’s cognoscenti where famed chef Simon Wright conjures up classic French cuisine flavored with Asian-Kiwi accents and a superb wine list. Dine on snail and chicken cannelloni in mushroom purée, snapper with sweet corn risotto and seared prawns or roast duck leg with orange sauce, bok choy and kumara mash.$$$$
THE FRENCH CAFÉ
210 Symonds St., Newton
tel 64 9 377 1911
http://www.thefrenchcafe.co.nz

CLOONEY

A converted warehouse doesn’t get more glamorous or sensuous than Clooney, with its curved leather banquettes and stage lighting. Chef Glenn Stewart wins accolades for oysters in a green apple/chardonnay vinaigrette, snapper with sea scallops, braised wild boar and mouthwatering desserts featuring chevre cheesecake and Tahitian vanilla brulé with frangipani dates. As hip for drinks as for dinner.$$$-$$$$
CLOONEY
33 Sale St., Freemans Bay
tel 64 9 358 1702
http://www.clooney.co.nz

Checking In with Michael Barnett
CEO of Auckland Chamber of Commerce

Global Traveler: Describe Auckland’s current business atmosphere.
Michael Barnett: Auckland is New Zealand’s economic powerhouse and is becoming increasingly aware of its advantages in the global marketplace. The regional economy reflects our ongoing innovation and diversification in highgrowth, high-value areas. Examples include digital content (including a burgeoning screen production industry), marine, health technologies, advanced food and beverage, and advanced materials.

GT: What draws business people, investors or major conventions to the city?
MB: Our Metro Project A ction Plan pulls together key actions around infrastructure, skills, innovation, export strength and Auckland as destination. Also, when New Zealand hosts Rugby World Cup 2011, Auckland will be the center of attention for the world’s media during the semi-finals and final. As Eden Park is revamped into a modern 60,000-seat stadium for the event, transport and other infrastructure developments are underway, and there are numerous business and investment opportunities associated with the event.

GT: What do business travelers love to do in Auckland when they escape meetings?
MB: Head to the waterfront, wander along the water’s edge at the Viaduct to a harborside café.Experience the thrill of sailing a genuine America’s Cup racing yacht or explore Auckland’s wild, west coast beaches of Muriwai, Piha and Karekare. If they have a couple of days, they can join a marine eco-safari to find common and bottlenose dolphins, Brydes whales and orcas in Hauraki Gulf Marine Park. Or they visit the wildlife sanctuary on Tiritiri Matangi Island in the Hauraki Gulf to see the many endangered birds, including the rare and beautiful takahe.

DIVERSIONS

Created by volcanic eruptions some 50,000 years ago, Auckland’s land- and seascapes are dominated by verdant Rangitoto Island, which erupted six centuries ago. There are three ways to reach the best views. Two miles south of the city, join a local Maori guide on the 643- foot climb to the extinct volcanic cone of Mount Eden, Auckland’s highest point. For a bird’s-eye perspective, take a look from the 3,350-foot stretch of Auckland Harbour Bridge Climb (Auckland Bridge Climb, tel 09 361 2000, http://www.aucklandbridgeclimb.co.nz). Views are also “sky high” at Auckland’s “needle” Sky Tower (Sky City, 80 Federal St., tel 09 363 6000, http://www.skycity.co.nz). One of the world’s tallest structures at 1,076 feet, it provides 360-degree panoramas from three observation decks plus thrilling on-the-edge activities: At 630 feet, Sky Jump (http://www.skyjump.co.nz) offers one of the world’s longest land-based jumps to adventurers who don harnessed “flying suits” for the leap, and Sky Walk (http://www.skywalk.co.nz) takes steel-nerved visitors along a narrow ledge around the observation deck. Not for the vertigo-challenged.

Exploring the eclectic City Centre is best on foot. Get a dose of the city’s vitality along the seafront at dawn, where cyclists, joggers and walkers greet the sun. Auckland is brimming with attractions, from its refreshing harbors to historic Victorian icons including the 1912 Ferry Building. The New Zealand National Maritime Museum (tel 09 3730 8003, http://www.nzmaritime.org) houses the famed KZ1 that competed in the 1988 America’s Cup. Imbibe the scenery at Viaduct Harbour — the southern hemisphere’s largest super-yacht harbor — while stopping at one of the hip al fresco cafés like Sails (http://www.sailsrestaurant.co.nz) for refreshments.

A short ride leads to the nearby suburbs. Affluent Parnell village (http://www.parnell.net.nz) is packed with cafés, fashion boutiques and fine art galleries and shops selling authentic Kiwiana — blown glass, carved wood bowls and jewelry crafted of paua shells or greenstone. (President Clinton reportedly shopped at Galtons and Essenze.) From Parnell, a lovely drive leads through Auckland Domain to the Auckland War Memorial Museum (tel 09 306 7067, http://www.aucklandmuseum.com), a treasure trove of Maori and Polynesian artifacts dating to A.D. 1200, including an 1836 115-foot war canoe. Ponsonby (http://www.ponsonbyroad.co.nz) is a hip strip where locals gravitate to the Occidental Belgian Beer Café for green-lipped mussels and frites. For spectacular views and a sense of history, drive across Harbour Bridge or ferry over to the Victorian seaside village of Devonport (http://www.devonport.co.nz), where you can climb its nearby volcanic crests — Mount Victoria with remnants of 700-year-old Maori pas (fortified settlements) and North Head, which was laced with military tunne ls during an 1870s fear of Russian invasions.

By far the most exciting experiences take a half-day or longer. West of Auckland, valleys dripping with vineyards beckon. Among the best are Kumeu River (http://www.kumeuriver.co.nz), Nobilo (http://www.nobilo.co.nz) and Matua Valley (http://www.matua.co.nz).

Scenic Drive leads to the soaring kauri trees and giant ferns of the Waitakere Ranges, a haven for bush-walkers; pick up trail maps at the Arataki Visitors Centre (tel 09 817 4941). Beyond the ranges, the western landscape is fringed by a string of gorgeous (but dangerous for swimming) black-sand beaches splashed by high waves curling in from the Tasman Sea. Hauntingly beautiful Karekare Beach is where the start of Jane Campion’s The Piano was filmed, and 20-mile-long Muriwai Beach attracts international birders to the gannet colony. Piha is a surfer’s paradise.

From Auckland’s harbor, the heavenly Hauraki Gulf Islands entice you to board a catamaran or fast ferry. Waiheke — Maori for “cascading waters” — is delightful for its unspoiled beaches, coastal tramping and sea-kayaking, as well as gentler excursions to its olive groves and wineries for tastings. On Rangitoto, join a guided tour to the 850-foot summit of the volcano crater. If you test your skill as crew on an America’s Cup sailing regatta in the gulf (Sail NZ, Viaduct Harbour, tel 64 9 3595 987 / 800 397 567, http://www.sailnz.co.nz), you earn the Kiwi cheer: “Good on you!”

JUST THE FACTS

Time Zone: GMT+ 12 hours
Phone Code: 64 New Zealand, 9 Auckland
Currency: New Zealand dollar
Entry/Exit Requirements:American citizens do not need a visa. The departure tax levied by the international airports is about $18 per person.
Official Language: English and Maori
Key Industries: Manufacturing, seaport activities including imports and exports, tourism, technology, retail, banking, yachtbuilding, horticulture, agriculture and vineyards

INFO TO GO

Auckland Airport (AKL) is in Mangere, 13 miles south of City Centre, about 30 minutes by car. An inter-terminal bus links domestic and international terminals. Auckland Airbus (tel 0508 247 287, about $15 per person) services the airport and major hotels. Taxis to the city cost about $15. City transportation links the Britomart Transport Centre with train, bus and ferry services. Select Tours (tel 64 9 575 2018, http://www.select-tours-nz.com) organizes limousines and customizes sightseeing, golf, fishing, wine and culinary, cultural and shopping tours. For more information, visit http://www.aucklandnz.com