This is where Euclid developed geometry; Herophilus discovered that the head, not the heart, is the center of thought; Aristarchus postulated that the earth revolves around the sun; and scholars translated the Old Testament from Hebrew to Greek. Cleopatra reigned here and dallied with Julius Caesar and Mark Antony.

This is Alexandria, the ancient world’s intellectual center and its premier port and trade hub between Europe and Asia. The Library of Alexandria, reported to house 700,000 scrolls, was conceived to contain all of ancient civilization’s available knowledge.

But Roman and Muslim armies destroyed the city in turn, and later earthquakes took their toll. Priceless artifacts were carted off; Cleopatra’s Needles — a trio of obelisks covered in hieroglyphics — now stand divided: one in Paris, one in London, one in New York City’s Central Park.

In the 19th and 20th centuries Alexandria emerged as a cosmopolitan center, but when Egypt nationalized the Suez Canal in 1956 and the country came under attack by Britain, France and Israel, the foreigners that had given the city its international flair departed or were expelled.

In the last decade, however, the government and preservationists have infused significant amounts of money, aiming to restore Alexandria’s preeminence. The city of almost 4 million inhabitants is now a bright and breezy metropolis. Still, don’t expect things to run as efficiently as in a western European city, but do expect to encounter outstretched hands seeking baksheesh, a “donation” to expedite service.

Today, most of Egypt’s foreign trade passes through Alexandria. Major exports are petrochemicals, agro-industrial products — including the famous Egyptian cotton — and steel. Cruise tourism is on the rise; in 2000, the government built a new terminal for larger cruise ships.

Although many complain that “Alex,” as the city is dubbed, is more about its former glory, take time to explore and you’ll learn it’s still a brilliant place to discover.

LODGING

EL-SALAMLEK PALACE HOTEL

Khedive Abbas Helmi II built this hunting lodge for his Austro-Hungarian wife in 1892. Now a hotel with 20 guestrooms and suites, El-Salamlek Palace is adjacent to Montazah Palace and gardens — the Egyptian president’s summer retreat — and is set alongside a private beach. The property boasts an interior décor that combines European and Egyptian elements. There are two restaurants, several bars and a casino on site. The tradeoff for the serene setting is a 30-minute drive to the city center.$$$$
EL-SALAMLEK PALACE HOTEL
Montazah Gardens
tel 20 3 547 7999
http://www.sangiovanni.com

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL ALEXANDRIA AT SAN STEFANO

Business travelers and vacationers welcomed this state-of-the-art property when it opened on the waterfront Corniche in July 2007. Each of its 118 guestrooms boasts a private balcony and a high-speed Internet connection. Other amenities include wireless Internet access, a 24-hour business center, meeting rooms and nine dining venues. Active guests will be pleased to find a 24-hour fitness center, a two-story spa and an infinity pool.$$$$
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL ALEXANDRIA AT SAN STEFANO
399 El Geish Road
tel 20 3 581 8000
http://www.fourseasons.com

SOFITEL CECIL ALEXANDRIA

The venerable 86-room Cecil, built in 1929, echoes with nostalgia. Used as a fictional setting in Lawrence Durrell’s Alexandria Quartet and as the de facto headquarters for the British Secret Service during World War II, it has retained its Belle Epoque charm. Updates include a business center, a fitness center and a disco. The action is at the Monty bar (remember that alcohol is not served everywhere in this Muslim nation), named after Field Marshall Bernard Montgomery, who resided at the hotel during World War II.$$$$
SOFITEL CECIL ALEXANDRIA
16 Saad Zaghloul Square
tel 20 3 487 7173
http://www.sofitel.com

DINING

BYBLOS

The Four Seasons’ signature restaurant is known for its mezze (an array of appetizers that usually includes hummus, eggplant and stuffed grape leaves), grilled marinated lamb and shrimp, veal chops and beef filets.Guests dine surrounded by Egyptian artwork beneath a crystal chandelier suspended from a handcarved and painted Lebanese wooden ceiling, or al fresco with seaside views. $$$$
BYBLOS
399 El Geish Road
tel 20 3 581 8000
http://www.fourseasons.com/alexandria

SANTA LUCIA

King Farouk and 20th-century U.S. presidents are among the guests who have patronized this 1932 grande dame, now considered one of Alexandria’s most exclusive dining venues. The international menu features traditional Middle Eastern fare, plus its signature osso bucco and a delectable dessert, Chocolate Helene. Alcohol is served.$$$
SANTA LUCIA
40 Safiyya Zaghloul St.
tel 20 3 486 4240

QADOURA
When in “Alex” it is de rigeur to feast on fresh seafood at a street-side eatery; this is one of the local favorites. Patrons start with a selection of mezze, then choose their fish or shellfish and the method of its cooking: grilled, fried or baked. No alcohol is served.$$
QADOURA
33 Bairam Al-Tonsi St.
tel 20 3 480 0405

DIVERSIONS

Alexander the Great ordered Ptolemy to build the Pharos Lighthouse, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The 400-foot-high beacon had a square base, an octagonal midsection and a round top. Erected in 283 B.C., it functioned until it was destroyed by a violent earthquake in 1303. Today, visitors who scuba dive may experience up-close encounters to view underwater ruins of the lighthouse, Cleopatra’s palace and ancient sphinxes (tel 20 3 483 20 45, http://www.alexandra-dive.com). UNESCO is participating in ongoing excavations around the sunken lighthouse and palace.

Although the ancient Library of Alexandria no longer survives, a modern version — the Bibliotheca Alexandrina (tel 20 3 483 9999, http://www.bibalex.org) — opened in October 2002. It, too, boasts of being the world’s largest library. Tour its soaring interior, intended to accommodate 1,000 readers at a time. The library’s Antiquities Museum contains statues discovered in Alexandria between the fourth century B.C. and fourth century A.D., as well as papyrus writings dating from about 286 B.C. A tile mosaic of a spotted dog with a collar dating to the second century B.C., an artifact from the ancient library, is a highlight. The exterior walls of one granite section are carved with letters and symbols purportedly from every known alphabet. Additionally, the facility hosts concerts and music festivals.

The Alexandria National Museum (tel 20 3 483 5519) arranges its historical specimens chronologically from the bottom up. The basement’s exhibits include items from the Pharaonic period. The ground floor displays pieces of Greek and Roman interest, such as an excellent second-century round mosaic of Medusa and jewelry of precious stones from Sinai and the Red Sea. The second floor houses Islamic and Coptic displays, including 17th- and 18th-century Christian icons and King Farouk’s 1930s medals and jewelry.

At the Catacombs of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa, a Roman burial site discovered when a donkey fell into it, the stunning Tigran tomb retains the original 2,000-year-old colors showing the mummy of Osiris and other figures, palm fronds and birds. Some unopened sarcophagi are visible, though the deepest catacombs often teem with busloads of tourists, making it difficult to descend to view the sarcophagi.

The most visible vestige of ancient Alexandria is the 99-foottall, red granite Pompey’s Pillar. Misnamed, it was actually constructed in 293 to honor Emperor Diocletian.

INFO TO GO

Borg El Arab (HBE), Alexandria’s major international ai rport, is a 40-minute drive to the city center. The trip via non-air-conditioned cabs (be sure to negotiate) usually costs about $30. In town it’s best to hail black-and-yellow taxis. Ask at hotels what the average fare should be, keeping in mind that the fare will include a gratuity. Express trains to Cairo take about two hours and 15 minutes and leave from the Misr or Sidi Gaber stations. Friday is the Sabbath in this Muslim country; banks and businesses are usually closed. For more information, visit http://www.egypt.travel