Last year, Switzerland overtook the United States as the world’s most globally competitive economy (according to the World Economic Forum global competitiveness index for 2006). Zurich, the country’s commercial capital, is the microcosm of the reason why. Consistently rated the global city with the highest quality of life, Zurich really does seem to have it all — a thriving economy, prosperous citizens and a scenic setting.

The gnomes of Zurich — the city’s famously secretive bankers — are no longer the dominant business patriarchs here, although the banking and financial sectors are still strong. New technology industries have broadened the city’s economic base, which has become one of the world’s strongest research and design metropolises. Zurich also ranks among the world’s top 10 cities in an impressive number of categories, including Nobel Prizes per resident, active patents per resident, and research and design expenditures as a percentage of the Gross National Product. Most of Switzerland’s 130-plus biotechnology firms are located in the Greater Zurich area, and information and communication technology (ICT, for short) is another booming industry.

A multilingual and highly educated workforce attracts the headquarters and branches of many multinational firms, as do Zurich’s low tax rates — and its willingness to negotiate tax breaks to attract businesses. Top-level executives also find Zurich attractive because there is no inheritance tax. A terrific and reliable transit system and highway network, in addition to Zurich’s location at the crossroads of Germany, France, Austria and Italy, combined with the biotech incubators at University of Zurich and ETH Zurich, continue to draw more companies to do business in the formal but friendly, and increasingly international, Zurich mode.

LODGING

PARK HYATT ZURICH

All the comforts of home, and then some, are what you’ll find at the Park Hyatt, near the lake and inside the financial district. All 154 rooms and suites have floor-to-ceiling windows, many with spectacular views, while the quietest rooms face an interior courtyard. Warm tones and soft carpets keep all this modernity from feeling stark, and pampering touches abound, from cozy robes to a daily fruit basket. Guestrooms are spacious, with Italian linens and leather, plush bedding and rainshower baths, and feature dual-line phones with voicemail, DVD players, minibars, inroom safes big enough to store a laptop, and both broadband and wireless access. The hotel also has a popular upscale restaurant, Parkhuus, and a bar, Onyx. The Lobby Lounge is open all day. $$$$
PARK HYATT ZURICH
Beethovenstrasse 21
tel 41 43 883 1234, fax 41 43 883 1235
http://www.zurich.park.hyatt.com

HOTEL HELMHAUS

Small, intimate, antique and deluxe don’t often go together, but they do at the Hotel Helmhaus, a 24-room property originally built in the 14th century. The hotel is set in the heart of the old city, on a boat-landing square. What the rooms lack in spaciousness is more than made up by charm and personal service. Guestrooms on the first four floors are traditionally designed, with raised moldings and warm colors. A recent renovation converted top-floor dormered rooms into modern “designer” accommodations. Rooms have wireless access, not-too-tiny baths, safes and minibars; computers and faxes are available in the business center. $$$
HOTEL HELMHAUS
Schifflande 30
tel 41 44 266 9595, fax 41 44 266 9596
http://www.helmhaus.ch

SWISSOTEL ZURICH

Set in an up-and-coming business district two miles from the airport and 20 minutes to downtown, Swissotel Zurich is near the Zurich Exhibition Center and offers all the amenities of a large, modern high-rise hotel at a reasonable price. From the spacious, modern lobby to the gorgeous views, the hotel is visually impressive, and the interplay of dark and light woods in patterns is a design element carried into the guestrooms. There are several styles of rooms, some with glassed-in showers facing the sleeping area, others with enclosed baths for the more privacy-inclined. Rooms have wireless and broadband Internet access, safes, coffeemakers, phones with voicemail, minibars, and DVD/VCRs. The hotel also has two restaurants and a bar, plus a fitness center and pool on the top floor. Complimentary shuttle service to the airport is available, and public transportation into the city is right outside. $$$
SWISSOTEL ZURICH
Am Marktplatz Oerlikon
tel 41 44 317 3111, fax 41 44 321 4468
http://zurich.swissotel.com

DINING

RESTAURANT BLU

Beautiful views don’t always come with exquisite food, but Blu combines the best of both. Simple and understated, Blu occupies a former laundry, looking out through 20-foot walls of glass over a sailboat harbor with mountains beyond. The food is basically Italian with lots of creativity applied; recent examples included whole roasted young sea bass on squidfish noodles, rack of lamb with olives, medallions of venison with elderberry sauce, and homemade tagliolini with truffle sauce. There’s a more-than-decent wine list, and a trendy bar on the upper level. Service can be a bit abrupt, but so proficient that no one seems to mind. $$$$
RESTAURANT BLU
Seestrasse 457
tel 41 44 488 6565
http://www.blu-restaurant.com

KANTOREI RESTAURANT & BAR

A charming building in a charming square leads into intimate, high-ceilinged Kantorei Restaurant & Bar, decorated in warm woods. The menu is modernized-classical, drawing from regional inspirations — Swiss, German, Italian and French. Preparation and presentation are thoughtful, from the sauteed prawns garnishing the lobster bisque to the cream carefully drizzled over the sinful chocolate cake. Light meals are also available in the cozy bar. Service is efficient and friendly, giving the overall impression that you’ve stumbled onto world-class food in a popular neighborhood venue. Reservations are recommended. $$-$$$
KANTOREI RESTAURANT & BAR
Neumarkt 2
tel 41 44 252 2727, fax 41 44 252 2728
http://www.restaurant-kantorei.ch

CADUFF’S WINE LOFT

It’s worth venturing the two miles from downtown into a green-hilled residential neighborhood to try the constantly changing, always-fresh fare at Caduff’s Wine Loft. The decor of the former warehouse, dating to the 19th century, is no-frills — more charitably called “minimalist chic” — complete with exposed ductwork and unwaxed wood floors. The clutter is saved for the wine cellar, with more than 2,000 vintages from around the world. This is not, however, just a wine bar; Chef Beat Caduff is as passionate about food as about the wine that goes with it. There are usually about 20 menu items, depending upon what he finds fresh at the market. Representative menu items are medallions of veal with saffron risotto, turbot in champagne sauce, pheasant ravioli, tuna with tomatoes and asparagus — or then again, the menu du jour could be meatloaf. It’s also possible to sample wines at the central bar, and to reserve a table for a small group inside the wine cellar itself. $-$$$$
CADUFF’S WINE LOFT
Kanzleistrasse 126
tel 41 44 240 2255
http://www.wineloft.ch

DIVERSIONS

The main drag of Zurich, Bahnhofstrasse, runs from the main train station down to the lake and is made for strolling. It’s also made for shopping and is one of the world’s most exclusive shopping districts where you’ll find Cartier, Tiffany and Co., Dior, Louis Vuitton, Giorgio Armani, Chanel and more. About halfway down the avenue is a well-known square, Paradeplatz, which is home not only to several bank headquarters but to Confiserie Sprungli (tel 41 44 224 4711, http://www.spruengli.ch), Zurich’s own Swiss chocolatier. It’s not only a good place to buy affordable — and edible — souvenirs, but also bakes the best pastries in town.

The skyline of Zurich is dominated by four spires, and the churches they crown are also historic monuments well worth seeing. Two of the spires belong to Grossmunster (tel 41 44 252 5949), which dates to the 12th century. Romanesque and impressive from the outside, it is surprisingly spare and simple inside, in keeping with the Reformation remodeling (a Reformation museum is housed in the cloister), except for stained-glass windows by Swiss artist Giovanni Giacometti that were added in 1932. Ornate bronze doors also were added around World War II. On the lower level in the 12th century crypt is a 16th century statue of Charlemagne, who according to legend founded the church. There are often chamber music concerts in the nave on weekends; flyers in the church will have details.

Another dominant spire belongs to Fraumunster (tel 41 44 211 4100), a 13th century church famous for its stained-glass windows by Marc Chagall. The last spire belongs to St. Peter’s church; check out its steeple clock, which has the world’s largest clock face.

There’s quite an eclectic selection of museums and galleries in Zurich. Kunsthaus Zurich (tel 41 44 253 8484, http://www.kunsthaus.ch) has a notable collection of classic modern art — Giacometti, Picasso, Munch, Braque, Monet, Chagall and more — as well as a fine collection of medieval sculpture. Landesmuseum (tel 41 44 218 6511, http://www.museesuisse.ch) is the Swiss national museum. Next to the main train station, it looks like a fairytale castle and is a great place to bone up on your Swiss history. And if you’re a caffeine junkie, visit the quirky Johann-Jacobs Kaffee Museum (tel 41 44 388 6151, http://www.johann-jacobs-museum.ch/english/), a converted villa devoted to the beverage.

If the weather happens to be dreary, spirit yourself away to the tropical rain forest inside the Zoo Zurich (tel 41 44 254 2500, http://www.zoo.ch). The Great Glass Hall in the zoo is home to the Masoala Forest Ecosystem, a miniature version of the Masoala rain forest in Madagascar, complete with 17,000 species of plants, tropical “rainfall” of 20,000 gallons a day, lemurs, tortoises, birds, insects and other animals. Zurich Zoo has been helping to support the original rain forest for the last decade and hopes to set a standard for other zoos — including the ability, should protections fail, to help restock species that become extinct in their original habitats.

To sample the nightlife, stroll the cobbled streets of Aldstadt, the old town, specifically the district known as Niederdorfli, which has antiquarian bookstores and boutiques alongside bars and beer halls, such as Babalu (tel 41 44 251 9732). As an alternative, visit the trendy Zurich West district, which is packed with clubs and lounges; one to try is Les Halles (tel 41 44 273 1125, http://www.les-halles.ch).

INFO TO GO

Kloten International Airport (ZUR) is seven miles north of the city and a 12-minute train ride to downtown, via the underground rail station adjacent to Terminal 5. This takes you to the Central Train Station and costs $5. City Bus No. 768 also leaves for downtown every 10 minutes during peak hours, but the trip can take an hour; it costs $4. Airport shuttle buses are available, with trip times somewhere in between the train and the city bus depending upon where your hotel is located. Taxis also are available from the airport, and cost about $35 to downtown, not including the tip. Once in Zurich proper, taxis are relatively scarce and very expensive, but there is an extensive network of public transportation of buses, trams and even a cable car, plus ferries on the lake. Check out routes and stops at http://www.vbz.ch or ca,ll the transit authority at 41 84 898 8988.